Grand Tours of Scotland's Lochs episode 6
Grand Tours of Scotland's Lochs episode 6: Paul explores the magical Argyll coast, travelling from the sacred sands of Kilmory Bay on Loch Sween.
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Transcript
00:06The tangled, island-studded coast of
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undefined:undefinedmemories
00:20are of the lochs along
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undefined:undefinedan element
00:33we have in spectacular
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undefined:undefinedlochs,
00:50great freshwater lochs
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undefined:undefinedacross Scotland,
01:02meeting the people who live close
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undefined:undefinedlongest freshwater loch.
01:30My journey takes me from a sacred
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undefined:undefinedmountainous Paps of Jura.
01:58The word "Sween" derives from an Old
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undefined:undefinedgrass of the machair.
02:24We'd collect driftwood and build
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undefined:undefinedput down to the history of Kilmory
02:44and its ancient chapel where the
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undefined:undefinedwas highly appropriate,
03:03Kilmory meaning Mary's Chapel
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undefined:undefinedremember it when I was a wee boy.
03:24Lines of beautifully carved grey
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undefined:undefinedor perhaps
03:38even the ninth century
03:40which would make them older than
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undefined:undefineda very significant
03:56and important symbol.
03:58This is an image of the great
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undefined:undefinedthe reverse side,
04:18we've got a fabulous hunting scene,
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undefined:undefinedspiritual power
04:48which went hand in hand
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undefined:undefinedthis magnificent castle
05:02that he ruled the
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undefined:undefinedthrived,
05:21but emigration and deforestation
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undefined:undefinedEuropean beaver and although they
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undefined:undefinedgalleys of old.
05:55Beavers in Britain were hunted to
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undefined:undefinedand his faithful spaniel, Dotty.
06:18If there are beavers on the loch or
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undefined:undefinedlodge, as well, along the shoreline.
06:32So these trees that we are seeing
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undefined:undefinedfeeding station that the pair use
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undefined:undefinedcut down then?
06:57Yes.Are they herbivores?
06:59They're strict herbivores.
07:00I thought they ate fish.
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undefined:undefinedlandscape, we come to the most
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undefined:undefinedflooded territory?
07:40Yes.How long did it take them to
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undefined:undefinedthis dam, checking on it,
07:58and if there is a breach they're
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undefined:undefinedover your head, isn't it?
08:09Yes, it's all part of beaver life.
08:14Despite all the evidence of beaver
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08:26If we're lucky, perhaps I'll
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undefined:undefinedone there.
08:41Wow, it looks like a giant guinea
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undefined:undefinedblack and white?
08:52Yes, that's right. What else have we
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undefined:undefinedfantastic, that's great footage.
09:03I love that. What else have we got?
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undefined:undefinedcameras for beavers, yet?
09:14No. It's quite difficult to tell the
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undefined:undefinedsince 2009 when it started.
09:25It's fantastic,
09:26the first mammal to have been
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undefined:undefinedbeaver and they continue growing,
09:52they never stop growing and they are
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undefined:undefinedthe tail's quite wide.
10:03So it feels entirely natural for you
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undefined:undefinedhabitat for beaver engineers
10:28and forms a network of waterways
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undefined:undefinedshort cut from the Firth of Clyde to
10:45the Atlantic.
10:49Where the canal reaches Loch Crinan
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undefined:undefinedof television screens
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undefined:undefinedby a group of enthusiasts.
11:27I joined Douglas Smith
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undefined:undefinedamong some of our friends.
11:44Duncan McGilvray, he is at home in
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undefined:undefinedlike this?
12:00100 ton of scrap iron, is that
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undefined:undefinedclapped eyes on her, as they say?
12:18Well, she was in not too bad a
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undefined:undefinedthrough the Crinan Canal without a
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undefined:undefinedand go up to Bruichladdich and watch
12:48the puffers coming into the pier
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undefined:undefinedout to the mainland.
13:00That must have been a good job
13:01for the men involved, taking
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undefined:undefinedthis one back to life?
13:12Yes, it's been a big team effort.
13:20Leaving Crinan, I head north,
13:22passing through Kilmartin Glen,
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undefined:undefinedstanding stones,
13:39stone circles and hill forts.
13:43If that wasn't enough, there is more
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undefined:undefinedon
13:52the hills, are hundreds of sites
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undefined:undefinedprolific areas for rock art in
14:12Great Britain. To lead me into this
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undefined:undefinedelsewhere and through excavation,
14:29we have a pretty good sense that
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undefined:undefinedmeaning of these mysterious carved
14:45rings. Aaron has his own
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undefined:undefinedGlen, there are
15:07built monuments which
15:10take the circular form,
15:12and rather than us just looking at
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undefined:undefinedpositioned in the landscape,
15:27so that when you look at the hills
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undefined:undefinedthe world.
15:44Placing myself at the centre of
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undefined:undefinedfreshwater loch.
16:01From the south-west, it stretches
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undefined:undefinedloch on their way to market.
16:25Today, the descendants of those
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undefined:undefinedcows here.
16:40Now these are traditional Highland
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undefined:undefinedfor what particular purpose?
16:57Ah...as a hobby.
16:59As a hobby?As a hobby, yes.
17:01It started off as a hobby and it's
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undefined:undefinedthat don't make it,
17:25they end up, I'm afraid...
17:27..as hamburgers.You shouldn't say
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undefined:undefinedpragmatic as the old cattle drovers
17:41would have been,
17:42when beef formed the mainstay of the
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undefined:undefinedherd of cattle from Skye
18:01to Crieff in Perthshire, a distance
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undefined:undefinedcattle droving?
18:13Yes, it's very slow.
18:16Your rate of
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undefined:undefinedon surfaces like this, loose.
18:35In the old days, they actually used
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undefined:undefinedplates,
18:45two shoes on each foot.
18:47Really?I mean, I was really
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undefined:undefinedwere built, the drovers,
18:59for the most part, avoided them.
19:01Did they really? Why's that? Partly
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undefined:undefinedbecause that way they get
19:10plenty to eat and remain in good
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undefined:undefinedextraordinary bond
19:25that builds up between
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undefined:undefinedwhole rhythm,
19:37and you and the cattle were attuned
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undefined:undefinedaren't they?
19:49Come on.What's the matter with that
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undefined:undefinedof pleasure steamers.
20:10To recreate a sense of the cruising
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undefined:undefinedScotland to name steamboats after
20:32whiskies.Is there indeed?
20:34Yes.And how old is the
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undefined:undefinedit, and the funnel leaning back.
20:58She's a beautiful-looking boat.
21:00And all powered by this wonderful
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undefined:undefinedbrake horsepower.
21:21Is that all?That's all.
21:23And it takes the boat at 6, 6.5mph.
21:26That's fantastic, isn't it?
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21:44Halfway up.
21:45LOUD WHISTLE
21:48Hear that lonesome whistle blow.
21:56Paddy Shaw skippered the last
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undefined:undefinedI would have
22:08thought, because there are no
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undefined:undefinedDalavich,
22:20right down at the other
22:21end of the loch. And it was all
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undefined:undefinedhouseholders in the area to keep a
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undefined:undefinedislands in
22:57the loch.
23:00This is Fraoch Eilean, which in myth
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undefined:undefinedthe creatures
23:15of legend seem to have
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undefined:undefinedby local laird Walter Campbell, who
23:36lived on one of the islands in the
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undefined:undefinedecclesiastical styles and periods.
23:52There are Saxon doorways, Gothic
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undefined:undefinedsister to realise his vision.
24:20And it wasn't until 1930
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undefined:undefinedand this is his effigy.
24:36Looking for all the world
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undefined:undefinedKirk - and the myths and legends
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undefined:undefinedland, this is modernity.
25:22Yet, even here in the heart of the
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undefined:undefinedof Ben Cruachan and 1km in
25:39from Loch Awe.Right.
25:41And, if you're talking about
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undefined:undefinedhall we're looking at?
25:50This is the main generating hall,
25:51that contains four turbine generator
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undefined:undefinedgenerating, they're pumping water
26:05back up to the dam?Indeed.
26:07So the reservoir, itself, acts as a
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undefined:undefinedthat peak demand.
26:18But what I love about it is the fact
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undefined:undefinedthat, it's just
26:28simply powered by water
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undefined:undefinedhigh level dam is the head.
26:47And it's where I'm going next,
26:48following a track which takes me
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undefined:undefinedof an ancient legend which tells of
27:03a local witch, a Cailleach
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undefined:undefineda stone and let the water flow down
27:20the mountainside and fill the rivers
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undefined:undefinedand three nights.
27:36When she awoke, she discovered that
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undefined:undefinedCailleach's well,
27:52and the water that powers the
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undefined:undefinedthere
28:06you've got the dam - the Cailleach's
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undefined:undefinedKnapdale hills.
28:21Making this the perfect place
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