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00:00 And we're ready Johnny.
00:02 Okay so good evening everybody, sorry for the mis-connection before.
00:07 We're here in Hungary, welcome to the Adelon unplugged number 46.
00:12 I've got a beautiful model, I've pre-cut, sorry pre-blow dried and pre-ironed the hair.
00:17 I haven't used a lot of products, what I've used is the oil oil.
00:20 Let me explain to you how I'm going to start this haircut, where I'm starting it.
00:24 I'm starting it from a natural parting.
00:28 Okay so she's got a natural side parting and what I'm doing is I'm using quite a rectangular
00:34 piece of disconnection simply because of the recession area being so high up.
00:42 So I want to make sure I keep enough weight and length in this area.
00:46 If you could please, I've got Maddy on camera for me.
00:49 So if you guys could just give Maddy the thumbs up, we know we're live and we know we're okay.
00:53 We're getting there now Johnny.
00:55 Perfect, okay.
00:56 So I've gone from the crown, head down for me, from the crown to the top of the ear and
01:02 then from where the head rounds off to the recession and the natural parting.
01:06 This is going to be my first zone.
01:08 Now I'm going to go for a very very salon friendly look today.
01:11 This is something you'll be able to do tomorrow in the salon.
01:15 Last week I did quite a bonkers haircut, so this week I thought I'd keep it a little bit
01:20 softer.
01:21 So I'm going to elevate the hair and I'm going to take away some of the weight of the internal
01:26 shape.
01:27 Okay, that way I'm keeping the external length but softening it all through.
01:32 Comb the hair up and my number system is going to be 1, 2 to 1, 3 to 1, 4 to 1 and so forth.
01:42 That way I'm going to maintain all my length in the front and my weight will drop forward.
01:48 So technically this will be quite soft but I'll maintain the element of length.
01:52 Now you can see the hairline through the front is so fine I don't need to use too much tension.
01:59 Okay, and all I'm doing is just taking off that excess corner there but maintaining the
02:06 length on the outside.
02:08 Now you can see the hair is becoming slightly static so a little trick for you.
02:15 This is the medium hold hairspray from Dallas.
02:20 More inside hairspray?
02:21 Yes, medium hold.
02:22 And then what you do is just put a very gentle mist of it on the hair and that will just
02:28 calm it all down while you're working around it.
02:31 Right, do you want that for me?
02:34 Thank you very much.
02:35 So now I'm going to go from that first zone, I'm going to come into the back and I want
02:40 to collapse the back in and give myself a lot of freedom.
02:43 So I'm going to go from that corner of the area of disconnection, I'm going to curve
02:47 it around underneath the crown and then make sure with the crown I take it and groom it
02:53 out of the way.
02:54 Now I am going to cut the crown after and I'm going to make it quite layered, quite
02:59 soft but for now I just want it to sit as a slight veil over the underneath hair.
03:06 So again, groom the hair, make sure the section is clean.
03:10 So I'm going from that corner, I'm curving it around underneath the crown and again I'm
03:16 just going to gently spray with the medium hold hairspray from the more inside range
03:24 and then I'm going to come into the centre back.
03:27 Now the reason I'm going to come into the centre back is because that's where the most
03:30 hair is.
03:32 So I'm going to start by choosing my internal shape from the centre back, okay?
03:38 That's where the hair is most dense.
03:39 I'm also going to use a tiny bit of Day Day, which is a cutting lotion.
03:47 Even though I want the hair dry, just by spraying a little bit of Day Day it just keeps it nice
03:52 and calm for me and it cools down any kicks.
03:59 Now if you do have any questions I've got the beautiful Madeline on the camera, she
04:02 can by all means ask me what you would like to know.
04:07 If anyone asks feel free to just jump in, okay?
04:10 So I'm going to start in the centre back with a vertical section going from the crown to
04:14 the centre nape.
04:15 I'm going to comb the hair out, I'm going to maintain all of my length on the external
04:20 shape and comb the hair out and this time what I'm going to do is I'm going to work
04:25 with a chipping technique.
04:27 So I'm going to use the tips of my scissors and I'm going to cut, you can see I'm cutting
04:34 almost little triangles in the hair.
04:36 I've got our first question Donny.
04:39 Perfect.
04:40 Why is the hair dry?
04:41 Okay, good question, who's that from?
04:43 That is from Razvan.
04:44 Hi Razvan, thank you for asking me a question, I appreciate it.
04:48 So the reason why it's dry, there's two reasons, the main one is simply because I don't want
04:53 to spend ages and ages blow drying the hair this evening.
04:57 I wanted to try and work with slightly more of a dry hair, it takes away some of the time.
05:06 I wanted to, by the way my number system is 1, 2 to 1, 3 to 1, 4 to 1 and so forth so
05:16 I build that weight behind the ear.
05:19 So I'm grooming towards me and I'm standing on this side of the head to make sure I maintain
05:26 weight over there.
05:27 Remember, if I'm standing here naturally I'll pull the hair towards me because my arms want
05:31 to be close to my body.
05:32 If I'm standing over here the chances are I'm going to move too far across.
05:37 Every time you cut it, comb it down, you can see it's making the outline a little bit softer.
05:42 I'm going to lift some of the outline off after but just by flattening that through
05:47 it just makes the silhouette really smooth.
05:49 Also what I think I might do, I might change combs for a little bit, I might jump on the
05:56 red Alolon Beauty because the teeth are wider which means yes I'll have less tension but
06:03 also I'll cause less static because the hair won't have a lot of friction on it.
06:07 Now let me show you a little trick.
06:10 Section 1 is here.
06:11 If I show Maddy the camera.
06:14 Section 1 is here.
06:15 Now if I want everything to come to section 1 the best thing to do is have section 1 there,
06:22 keep your finger on section 1, so the middle finger is on section 1, the second finger
06:29 is there to help me take the section like that, groom.
06:34 And then watch what happens.
06:36 Instantly if I stand here, if you come slightly behind me Mads, you can see look, I can see
06:42 the root of section 1.
06:48 So to answer the question why am I cutting this drawing wasn't it?
06:51 So question number 1 is to save the blow dry time, life.
06:56 And number 2 which is actually slightly more important is to see the colour because we
07:03 haven't coloured the hair so this is obviously existing highlights so by drying it I get
07:08 to see how the highlights are sitting, whether I'm going to take them and make them too patchy
07:14 or not.
07:15 If the hair was wet you wouldn't really be able to see that that much.
07:20 Take the section with the wide end, comb in at the root, comb it through into the tight
07:26 end again, move your feet so you're standing opposite the section and then use a chipping
07:31 technique.
07:34 This will create a shattered solid line.
07:40 So we're here in Davos, Hungary, we've been invited to do a show and we've got a fantastic
07:46 little audience in front of us who are watching tonight's Unplugged.
07:50 Can I say hello?
07:52 Hello!
07:53 So we're right in the heart of Budapest which I found out is actually Budapest, two separate
07:59 words just in case you guys didn't know that, I thought it was quite interesting.
08:04 And we've got a beautiful show we're doing tomorrow, it's like a seminar type scenario,
08:09 there's going to be up to I think 60 to 80 hairdressers there and it's a beautiful, beautiful
08:16 kind of clubhouse that we're doing it in.
08:19 So if you're living in Hungary and you'd like to come and watch the show, please feel free
08:25 to email, is there any slots left, any spaces left?
08:30 Some.
08:31 Okay, so what we could do is if you're interested in buying a ticket, feel free to email davonas@unplugged.com
08:39 Hungary or you can Facebook message us and we will put you in touch with the right people.
08:46 So vertical sections moving around the head, one, two to one, three to one, four to one,
08:51 five to one, that way I maintain the weight behind the ear but I get a nice bit of softness
08:56 on the inside of the shape.
08:59 Now from here, I'm going to go all the way around and down to the front hairline.
09:10 So I'm actually going slightly offset and I'm going to the front hairline again where
09:16 the recession kicks in.
09:17 There you go.
09:27 So this haircut is something that I do quite regularly in the salon, this particular shape.
09:33 It's very, very consumer friendly.
09:35 Now on this side what I'm going to do is my number system is going to be slightly different.
09:41 So I take section one, I comb it out.
09:44 Now because this is my heavier side, I'm able to basically layer this side slightly more.
09:52 So comb the hair out again, look for the guide, take your fingers to the edge of the guide
09:57 a lot of people when I watch them cut hair what they do is they run their finger past
10:01 the guide and they lose any tension.
10:03 So my guide's on that side so I comb the hair forwards, okay, and then I work the chipping
10:09 technique on that line.
10:11 When you're chipping, Johnny, how do you not lose your guide because you're not clock cutting?
10:19 Very good question, very good question.
10:20 Is that for you?
10:21 Yeah.
10:22 Cool.
10:23 So as long as your guide is thick, as long as you've got enough hair in your fingers,
10:28 you're better off having slightly more of the guide in your hand than you are of the
10:35 hair that you're introducing.
10:36 But at the same time, you also have to be really conscious of your tension.
10:41 So if you're consistent with your tension, your cutting line will always be there.
10:46 It's only when, don't forget, even though it's chipping, it's still a clean line, you
10:50 can still see the strength of the line, yeah?
10:53 And that's probably the biggest difference.
10:55 I use quite a lot of tension when I cut hair.
10:58 The only place I don't use it is obviously around the hairlines.
11:01 So in this scenario, I want it to be quite a sexy kind of soft look.
11:05 I don't want it to be too aggressive in texture.
11:07 I want it to have a nice bit of movement to it.
11:10 Now the only thing I have to think about now is the hairline because the hairline starts
11:15 to go up quite high up.
11:17 Can you see?
11:18 It's not far back.
11:19 It's quite a narrow hairline.
11:20 So from here, I need to make sure that I over-direct sooner.
11:24 So I've hit that point now.
11:26 So I know the hairline is working against me.
11:29 So vertical section.
11:32 Again, put my finger there, take my section with the comb, hold it with my second finger,
11:39 and then comb it out.
11:41 Now remember, you should be combing it once with tension.
11:45 Now my cutting angle is slightly changing now.
11:47 I'm going slightly more of a triangular type cutting line to really maintain the length
11:56 behind that ear.
11:59 Take it away.
12:03 Really loosen that shape up.
12:05 Comb it through and you'll see the hair, look, I don't get a hole over the ear because of
12:10 my angle of the cutting line changed.
12:13 Okay, same thing.
12:15 Now what I'm going to do is I'm going to work to the top of the ear and then I'm going to
12:19 change it.
12:21 Okay, so one more section.
12:25 Comb the hair down.
12:26 Comb all the excess hair away.
12:27 I don't need that hair over there.
12:29 Comb it up and then chip away the line.
12:37 Comb it up.
12:40 Now what this is doing, it's going to create a shattered, looser movement to the hair.
12:44 If I club cut it, it's going to fall very solid.
12:47 So if I chip it, the whole shape just falls a little bit softer.
12:50 Okay?
12:51 There you go, Kim.
12:52 Kim's just asked the question, "Why are you chipping?"
12:54 But I think that's answered it.
12:55 Let me know if that's answered enough for you, Kim.
12:58 Basically, Kim, the main thing I'm worried about is the colour.
13:02 Because the colour is kind of got old highlights, what I don't want it to do is look stripy.
13:08 So by chipping it, it just kind of blends it all in a bit better.
13:11 It's not so obvious.
13:12 Yeah?
13:13 Now I'm going to use this length here as my guide.
13:16 Okay?
13:17 And I'm going to come from the top of the head through to the front of the head, like
13:22 this.
13:23 Okay?
13:24 With a horizontal section.
13:25 I'm going to comb the hair up.
13:29 And then I'm going to use a club cutting technique now.
13:34 And I'm going to take away that length.
13:36 So basically, it's a triangular cutting line working from the back to the front.
13:41 Okay?
13:42 So that will basically soften the shape through.
13:44 Again, Y2 for the comb to take the section.
13:48 And this number system is going to change.
13:50 So 1 is my very first section.
13:53 2 is going to go up to 1.
13:55 3 is going to go up to 1.
13:57 So that way, what's going to happen is I'll be triangular both vertically from top to
14:02 bottom because my over direction is going 2 to 1, 3 to 1.
14:06 So I'm going to get longer this way.
14:08 But I'm also getting longer from the back to the front due to the angle of the cutting
14:13 line.
14:14 So Kim's got another really good question, Johnny.
14:18 It's Kim from South Africa.
14:19 Hi, Kim.
14:20 Hi, Kim.
14:21 So she asks, "Are you using high elevation to maintain length and weight on the external
14:25 shape?"
14:26 Yeah, so the idea now, Kim, is that basically I don't want to weaken my hairline too much.
14:32 So by over directing everything to the first section, I automatically maintain that weight
14:36 on the external shape.
14:38 Can you see?
14:40 So I get a really soft, kind of sexy, soft look, but I maintain all my length.
14:46 I'm going to come through the inside of the shape, which basically are these two zones
14:50 here.
14:51 OK?
14:52 I'm going to release the zones.
14:55 And I'm going to work on the top zone.
15:00 So I'm going to work on the first rectangular shape first.
15:03 So this one here.
15:04 OK?
15:05 I'm going to make sure I section off the crown area that I had before.
15:09 So I'm going to leave that till last.
15:14 I'm going to take a vertical section.
15:17 I'm going to ignore the underneath.
15:21 You see that's my length from the underneath.
15:23 I'm going to ignore that length.
15:25 I'm going to start on top of that point.
15:26 I'm going to comb the hair up.
15:29 And I'm going to soften that through.
15:35 Again, by cutting a square cutting line.
15:38 Now even though I'm cutting a square cutting line, if you look at my body, my cutting line
15:43 is square.
15:44 But because of the fact that the hair's naturally going to fall quite flat, the underneath is
15:51 already collapsed.
15:52 So I'm going to get this loose movement on top.
15:54 All I'm going to do now is my section pattern is going to pivot again, the same way as did
15:59 before, and I'm going to wrap it around the head.
16:01 Now the reason why you do that is to basically maintain a little bit of extra length around
16:07 the front.
16:10 So again, pivoting sections again, which is the same as the underneath.
16:14 Exactly the same as the underneath.
16:15 The only difference is I'm able to actually have two areas of disconnection that have
16:21 no technical connection, but have a visual connection.
16:26 Now how do I know where to stand?
16:29 That's the question I'm going to ask the audience.
16:30 I know that I have to keep taking my sections, so how do I guarantee that I stand in the
16:36 same point and I'll be directed to the same point?
16:40 What can I use to help me?
16:43 That's the question I'm going to ask the audience tonight.
16:47 Got no takers yet.
16:49 We'll get it, we'll get it.
16:52 If you follow around, Maddy, come round here, you'll see that my body is parallel to the
16:58 chair.
16:59 If you come round here, my body is basically parallel to this chair.
17:02 So Aaron Williams has said clock on the floor.
17:05 Good, that does definitely help.
17:08 Good.
17:09 Kim says the chair.
17:11 Yeah.
17:12 Floor chair, says Gina.
17:14 Yeah, good, correct.
17:15 Hi Gina.
17:16 Hi Aaron.
17:17 Welcome back.
17:18 Nelly's asked, is the spray used because of static?
17:22 Yeah, Nelly, you might have missed that a little bit earlier on, but Johnny's using
17:24 the medium hold hairspray from the More Inside range, just to get rid of some of that static
17:29 as he's combing.
17:33 So we're in the centre of Hungary, in the Davidas head office over in Hungary, and we've
17:40 got a great little audience.
17:41 We've been prepping all day for tomorrow's show, okay?
17:46 And we've done some really cool looks, and we'll be showing you some of the looks tomorrow.
17:50 Just so I know, on our Instagram, we've been posting some videos today, so feel free to
17:56 have a little look after this.
17:57 A little bit of Day Day, that just calms it all down.
18:01 Remember, it rehydrates the hair, doesn't it?
18:04 Yeah?
18:05 I don't soak the hair, I just rehydrate it.
18:07 Now I'm going to work on this final zone, which is the zone that goes around the crown
18:12 and drops to the front hairline.
18:13 Now this zone I'm going to go a little bit tighter, okay?
18:16 Because I want lots and lots of movement.
18:18 So this is what I'm going to do.
18:19 I'm going to ignore the shape that I've cut here, which was in my rectangle.
18:25 I'm going to ignore that shape.
18:27 I'm going to start at the crown, and comb the hair up.
18:31 Now look at what's happening underneath.
18:33 I've got two different and three different lengths.
18:35 I've got this length, which is the length underneath here.
18:38 I've got another length, which is the length at the back.
18:40 So now what I'm going to do is I'm going to ignore all of those lengths, and I'm going
18:44 to put a complete another length in, which is going to be shorter than all three of those
18:49 lengths.
18:50 That way I'm going to have a lot more movement around the crown.
18:53 Okay?
18:54 So comb the hair up.
18:57 You can see where it starts, where the technique starts, okay?
19:01 I'm going to ignore that, and I'm going to literally half the hair at the crown.
19:10 So how do I know what length to choose there?
19:13 Basically I have to decide how much movement and freedom I want.
19:16 Again, I'm working pivoting sections.
19:21 I'm standing here, and the reason why I'm standing here is again, so I can see the root.
19:26 So my sectioning pattern is pivoting like this, okay?
19:30 I'm standing here so I can see the root.
19:32 I'm using the wide end of the comb.
19:34 I'm ignoring my length underneath, okay?
19:36 I'm combing the hair straight up, and I'm cutting a square cutting line with pivoting
19:42 sections.
19:44 Can anyone watching tell me why do we use pivoting sections?
19:50 So the question is, I've used at least two pivoting areas in this haircut.
19:57 This is now my third.
19:58 Why do we use pivoting sections?
20:00 What does it do?
20:01 That's my question for the audience.
20:07 So I'm pivoting all the way around.
20:12 This is section three, section four, sorry.
20:16 So far my number system in this zone is one, one to two, two to three, three to four.
20:23 And I'm working on the base.
20:24 So we have an answer.
20:25 What's the answer?
20:26 So we have to change from a vertical shape to horizontal.
20:30 And then we have to follow the head shape, and follow the shape of the head, giving us
20:34 a central guide.
20:37 So they're all correct.
20:40 They are.
20:42 The main reason for pivoting sections is it allows you to work from a vertical section
20:51 into a horizontal or diagonal section.
20:53 So the pivoting point within a sectioning pattern allows you to control your different
20:57 shapes.
20:58 Remember, sections don't create shape.
21:00 They're there to help you work methodically through your shape.
21:02 So if I want a greater control over my vertical shape, I want a vertical section.
21:07 If I want a greater control over my horizontal shape, I want to take a horizontal section.
21:11 If I want to have an even control over both shapes, I will take a quite pure diagonal
21:18 section.
21:19 Now anything in between will either go close to the vertical or close to the horizontal.
21:24 The closer your section is to the vertical, the more influence you're going to have over
21:28 your vertical shape.
21:29 The closer your section is to the diagonal or to the horizontal, don't forget, that's
21:35 your horizontal, that's your vertical.
21:38 Anything in between is diagonal.
21:49 So that's pure diagonal, that's diagonal closer to the vertical.
21:55 So the reason we pivot, as you can see by this point here, is it's allowing me to go
21:59 from vertical to horizontal to diagonal.
22:04 That's why my pivoting, I pivoted once on the underneath, once on the top, and once
22:09 on the crown.
22:10 Now I've cut that crown area.
22:13 Now I'm going to come to my last zone, which is basically the zone which wrapped around
22:19 the front of the hairline, which is this zone here.
22:22 Now with this zone, I'm going to change it slightly again.
22:26 I'm going to use that pivoting area there, and now I'm going to pivot this way.
22:34 So I'm working from the top where the parting is, round this way.
22:37 So I've pivoted from the right side, round to the left at one cutting angle.
22:43 Now I'm going to re-pivot using a different cutting angle.
22:47 So from the crown, I'm going to ignore that side.
22:54 I'm going to take my length at the crown, take a section from the front to the back,
23:00 so from the back to the front, comb the hair up, and now I'm going to go for a really,
23:06 really steep, really, really steep triangular cutting line.
23:12 Can you see?
23:15 So maintain lots and lots of length and weight through the front.
23:22 Don't let go until what's in your finger is clean.
23:26 Don't let go, yeah?
23:27 One of the things I see a lot of people do is they let go, thinking they can pick it
23:31 back up and clean it after, but you shouldn't need to.
23:34 So now my body is basically going to pivot.
23:37 So I've started here.
23:39 I'm going to pivot around like this.
23:44 Okay?
23:46 Pivoting sections.
23:48 In this scenario, again, my number system is one to two, so I'm standing where I can
23:53 always see the root.
23:54 Remember that.
23:55 My cutting line is triangular.
24:02 Don't let go until what's in your finger is clean.
24:07 So if I'm standing here, I'm able to really see that root, you see, because I'm moving
24:12 my body around, which allows me to see the root of the hair.
24:25 Don't let go until what's in your fingers is clean.
24:29 One more section, and I should meet the short hair at the back.
24:33 Yeah, you see?
24:35 Now you can see, if you look carefully, look underneath my hands, Mads, you can see all
24:39 the shape dropping away.
24:42 Can you see?
24:46 I've pivoted and I've gone back, and again, I've gone for the triangular cutting line.
24:51 That way, that length will sit over the top of my length in the front, and it's just going
24:55 to give me a really loose, soft, kind of sexy feeling to my haircut.
25:01 Guys, you can do this haircut tomorrow so easily in the salon.
25:06 So easily.
25:07 Yeah?
25:08 So, simple zoning, pivoting areas, pivoting sectioning patterns, which allow you to create
25:15 your different angles of cutting lines.
25:17 Okay?
25:18 Now, what I'm going to do now is comb the hair down and work a little bit on the external
25:23 shape, and then I'll show you what I'm going to do freehand-wise.
25:28 So comb the hair down.
25:32 Once you comb it down, what you want to try to do is have a bit of control over this area.
25:36 So comb the hair down, rest your scissors, then rest the comb.
25:41 Okay?
25:42 That way, you've got a nice, kind of almost like a ruler to cut your external length.
25:48 And all I'm doing, again, I'm using a chipping technique, small, tiny triangles just to create
25:56 that shape.
25:57 And is this your favorite comb to do this with, Jenny?
26:03 Yeah.
26:04 So I'm trying to avoid using too much tension.
26:06 So you comb the hair down.
26:08 Now this bit's interesting.
26:09 Look, at this point, I'm still at the trapezius muscle in the back.
26:13 Can you see that?
26:15 I'm still working at the trapezius muscle, which is the center back muscle.
26:19 Now, when I work through to the side, where the sternocleidomastoid muscle kicks in, I'm
26:25 going to change the head position.
26:27 So now, if I continue cutting, can you see the head is down?
26:30 If you zoom out a bit, Mads?
26:32 Yeah.
26:33 Which means the hair is kicking forward.
26:34 So if I cut it, when the head goes back up, the hair's going to go back to its natural
26:39 form, and I'm going to have an uneven line.
26:41 So head goes up, chin faces forward.
26:46 Now, gravity is helping me cut my line.
26:51 Same principle.
26:52 Comb the hair down and establish the length that I want.
27:00 Use your comb like a ruler.
27:05 And we're cutting small little triangles.
27:11 Can I see how I cut, yeah?
27:12 I think so.
27:16 And now I'm going to connect the two together.
27:18 Look.
27:19 Just connect the two together.
27:24 So when you're doing this, try and stand parallel to your shape.
27:30 That way you can see the natural fall of the hair, and you can really control that movement.
27:36 Remember, whenever you're cutting a line, you always want to focus on the natural fall.
27:40 That way you get a really beautiful, clean line, okay?
27:43 Remember that I want the line to be slightly soft.
27:44 I don't want it to be too solid.
27:46 Head goes up, head to the side.
27:49 Now, again, I comb the hair to the natural fall.
27:52 So I look at the root, and I make sure the hair is going straight down.
27:56 Okay?
27:57 Now you can see, now I'm going to follow that line all the way through like that.
28:03 So I comb the hair down.
28:06 And now, because the hair is slightly weaker because of the hairline, I'm going to club
28:10 cut it.
28:11 So I'm going to cut slightly more of a stronger line, because the hair is weak in this area,
28:15 you see?
28:16 So I don't need to chip my line.
28:18 And in the front area here, where it's very, very weak, all I'm going to do to keep that
28:23 extra little corner of length is I'm going to tuck it behind the ear like this.
28:27 Okay?
28:28 Comb it all the way through.
28:31 Guys, if you're enjoying the video, please feel free to share it.
28:37 The share button is on the bottom left-hand side of the screen.
28:41 Again, I've combed the hair behind the ear, and now I'm going to use a chipping technique,
28:48 because I am using what we call external over-direction now.
28:52 So external over-direction is when you direct the hair away from the point of its natural
28:56 fold.
28:57 And what that does is it gives me a bit of extra length in the front, and a bit of softness
29:01 to it.
29:02 Okay?
29:03 Now I'm going to come around this way, and do the same thing on this side.
29:11 So I need to focus now.
29:13 I'm still cutting at the trapezius muscle, so comb the hair down.
29:18 Rest the back of your comb, and work your line through.
29:24 Use the comb like a ruler, and rotate it.
29:26 So if you look at my hand, my hand's basically doing that to maintain some strength, but
29:35 not too much strength.
29:36 Now I'm turning it round again, combing the hair to the natural fold.
29:43 And because the hair is weak here, remember we club cut it.
29:52 And then, to connect the two together, we comb the hair down.
29:59 Rest your scissors, rest your comb, and then work your line.
30:05 So Kendra has asked, "Johnny, is there a spot to order the cutting mat?"
30:09 So I'm guessing she means the cutting collar that you're using today.
30:13 This particular collar here, the answer is yes there is.
30:17 If you go on to Mads, if you type in the website, then we'll be able to, the guys can just simply
30:22 use the link.
30:25 So Maddy's going to type in the website for you, and you can find everything you want
30:30 on there.
30:31 You can find any of the teaching tools, you can find our scissors, our combs, our brushes,
30:37 the whole lot is on there.
30:39 So it's www.aloneeducation.com.
30:43 So we have an online shop now where you can buy everything.
30:45 We've got water sprays, clips, combs, everything you need on that website there.
30:50 So I'm going to post that on there, guys.
30:51 If you follow the link, you should be able to find the online shop for us.
30:55 You're welcome, Kendra, no problem.
30:59 So again, just put some strength in that front bit, guys.
31:03 By using a bit of external over-direction, it just enables me to maintain that little
31:09 bit of length in the front.
31:11 You can see the shape's really soft, really pretty.
31:14 It's not hard at all.
31:17 Head down for me again, one more time.
31:19 I'm just going to check the external length, check how it wants to fall naturally.
31:26 I can see it wants to move.
31:28 Let it move and visually work your line.
31:36 Now I'm going to use a technique called weave cutting.
31:39 I'll explain to you what that is.
31:42 So I'm going to take a horizontal section in the back of the head, and I'm going to
31:47 do this above the occipital bone.
31:49 I'm not going to go below the occipital bone because the hair's already quite fine in that
31:53 area.
31:54 I'm going to go above the occipital bone, take a horizontal section, clip and comb the
32:00 excess hair out of the way.
32:03 Nice and clean.
32:04 Now watch what I'm going to do now.
32:07 I'm going to take a horizontal section.
32:11 That way I maintain the weight in the external shape.
32:13 Then I'm going to come into the haircut, comb the hair out.
32:18 You can see I've got my ... Even though I've chipped the line, you can see it's clean.
32:22 It's just broken.
32:25 Then what you've got to do is come in.
32:28 I'm going to use the ... If you imagine my blade's going to be parallel to the head like
32:32 that.
32:34 I'm going to go in and I'm going to basically go up and down.
32:41 This is called weave cutting.
32:44 Now this works a little bit like if you're weaving highlights.
32:48 Similar kind of principle.
32:50 It's a little bit like if you were using a thinning scissor.
32:55 It's a really good technique to use.
32:57 What's the difference between doing this like this instead of using a thinning scissor,
33:01 Johnny?
33:02 That's a good question.
33:03 Is that from you?
33:04 Yeah.
33:05 Good question.
33:06 Basically, if I use a thinning scissor, I basically would do that.
33:10 It would take away weight the whole way through.
33:12 Now if the hair's broken or weak, you may not have a solid area.
33:17 You may have an area that's already very weak.
33:20 By doing it once with a thinning scissor, you're even affecting the area where the hole
33:24 is, for example.
33:26 You're taking away weight that you actually need.
33:28 Whereas when you're using the scissor, you can be a bit more selective.
33:31 You can go one, two, three.
33:33 You can miss a bit out and then you can move across like that.
33:36 You can be much, much more selective when using a scissor.
33:40 To be fair, we like to train people to be able to do everything with one pair of scissors
33:48 and one comb because if you can do everything with one pair of scissors and one comb, you
33:53 don't need to unravel your suitcase and have 50 scissors in there.
33:57 Ollie has asked, "Hi, Ollie."
33:59 He's asked, "Any tips on how to get close to the root when weak?"
34:03 Okay, so basically, Ollie, the closer you go to the root, obviously the more weight
34:08 you're going to take away.
34:09 The danger of doing that, there's a couple of dangers.
34:13 One is that the hair might go spiky.
34:15 So my advice to you is always start with the mid-lengths and then you can go closer.
34:22 I won't tell you who did it, but it was quite funny.
34:24 Years ago, a friend of mine, when they first started doing this, they did it around the
34:29 crown and they went too close to the root.
34:34 All of a sudden, the hair just went pow!
34:36 Bits were just sticking up like this, big chunky bits.
34:39 Also, when they were doing it, rather than going in like that, they were going in like
34:43 that.
34:44 So there was literally quite big chunks running through the haircut.
34:49 That's the beauty of the learning process because the closer you go to the root, the
34:53 more the hair's going to react.
34:55 The further away you go from the root, the less weight you're going to take away.
34:59 I'm going mid-length and I'm just trying to really loosen it up.
35:04 If you feel me from above, now try and feel me from above and see what it looks like.
35:08 So my blades are coming into the hair.
35:10 You can kind of see, the more I do it, you can kind of see, it's like you're weaving
35:15 out the weight.
35:18 So kind of like one and move across like this.
35:21 Now if you do this, a good thing to do is to count.
35:26 So for example, if you go 10 from the beginning bit of your finger, if you go to the end of
35:32 your finger, you do 10 times and you do that consecutively, you know you're going to have
35:36 a really good control of that balance.
35:38 And all that's done is just flatten that silhouette and it's blended in the colour a bit better
35:41 as well.
35:42 Can you see?
35:43 I'm going to do that the whole way up.
35:47 Jean has just asked if you could recap zone 5 and 6.
35:52 Zone 5 and 6, the final two zones.
35:54 Let me work it out.
35:56 So I did zone 1, zone 2, zone 3, zone 4, zone 5 and zone 6.
36:06 So zone 5 and 6, I basically started where I sectioned off that rectangle, I started
36:14 there and I pivoted like this, Gina.
36:17 And I worked a square cutting line, working on the base all the way around.
36:21 And I cut it to about this kind of length so I had this bit of freedom and movement
36:24 around the crown.
36:25 Then I stopped at this point here.
36:27 So if you imagine, it's almost like a half a moon or half a circle of hair is layered
36:33 quite short.
36:35 And then I came from the crown to the front hairline with a triangular cutting line and
36:40 I pivoted back around this way, keeping all my length externally.
36:44 That way the whole thing just becomes this really soft, sexy, kind of moveable hair.
36:50 And I'll be honest with you, I've really started to enjoy, me personally, when I'm working
36:54 a lot more now, I'm enjoying working with a bit more texture.
36:59 Because before, I used to work a lot with quite short graphic hair and I've started
37:05 to enjoy at the moment, maybe it's a phase I'm going through, a bit of hair that has
37:10 a bit more softness to it.
37:12 Even though last week I went quite bonkers and I did something quite super creative,
37:19 I'm getting into watching hair move a bit more.
37:22 I think we've been working with the Wiggle collection in the Illusion of Control for
37:26 this year and we're working on the next collection at the moment that is sort of inspiring all
37:30 of us to be a bit freer.
37:31 Yeah, the next collection is going to be really cool, I'm looking forward to that one.
37:36 We'll be launching it at the Worldwide Hair Tour.
37:38 And for those of you who don't know what the Worldwide Hair Tour is, Dav and us have a
37:42 hair show that they do every single year and every year it's in a different city, one of
37:49 the capitals.
37:50 So last year was...
37:51 LA.
37:52 LA.
37:53 So it's a great video actually, I think even if you just type them into the Facebook search
37:58 bit where you search for people and you search the Worldwide Hair Tour, Dav and us have got
38:02 a couple of pages on there as well.
38:04 So there's a video for the Worldwide Hair Tour next year and then there's lots of videos
38:09 from the last few years as well.
38:11 Yeah, I mean next year's going to be in Parma and Dav and us are launching their...
38:19 Dav and us are launching their latest head office which is going to be based in Parma.
38:38 Which is basically a beautiful, beautiful plot of land right in the heart of Parma.
38:45 What I'm doing now guys, I'm just basically pointing the tips just simply for the colour.
38:49 I don't want the colour to have any lines in it, okay?
38:51 I'm going to go through all of the zone 5 and also the zone which was the rectangle,
38:58 pointing into the hair and then I'm done.
39:00 Now the key here is to work diagonal sections, that way I am going to be constantly, constantly
39:11 working against the grain.
39:12 On the hair up, you can see where my areas disconnect.
39:21 Don't connect that through because that's the crown.
39:23 Don't connect that length there.
39:27 Ignore that length.
39:31 And then soften it through.
39:32 So I'm trying not to have any hard lines in my haircut.
39:35 So Kendra's asked, which way do you recommend removing weight without altering your shapes?
39:41 I think I might just answer that.
39:43 So basically, Kendra did you say?
39:45 Yeah.
39:46 Kendra, thank you for your question and guys, for those of you who are asking questions,
39:49 thank you so much.
39:50 I really, it does make it a bit easier for me when you guys ask questions because then
39:54 I know how I can help you.
39:56 Otherwise I find myself just giving you lots of information.
39:58 I don't know how much of it is relative to what you guys need to focus on.
40:04 So what I'm doing Kendra is I'm basically trying to, my issue is the colour, okay?
40:09 So what I'm doing is I'm basically softening the hair through by using a pointing technique.
40:15 That way it stops the colour, the cutting lines from being too solid and it allows the
40:20 colour to move really softly.
40:22 So can you see there's my zone from the front?
40:25 I'm going to ignore that zone.
40:27 I'm going to ignore that zone.
40:31 Climb the hair up and just soften that cutting line.
40:35 When you've got hair like that, just tuck it behind your finger like that.
40:40 And that way it gets out of the way while you work around it.
40:47 Just really soften that cutting line.
40:49 So Kendra, what this is doing, I'm keeping the silhouette, I'm keeping the shape, I'm
40:53 just softening the weight so the hair moves a little bit softer.
40:57 Now I'm now involved in the longer hair, which is the rectangular zone.
41:01 Climb the hair up.
41:04 There it is, can you see?
41:06 Oh, I lost that.
41:09 Get out of here, I missed the hair, can you believe it?
41:13 I did lose one hair.
41:15 So Johnny, I've got another question.
41:17 No one's asked it, but a lot of people when they're first starting out, me particularly
41:22 when I used to cut hair, when I was pointing in the way that you do now, I used to end
41:26 up with loads of tiny little cuts along the edge of my finger where I didn't really know
41:30 where to stop.
41:31 Have you got any advice for people just starting to try out this technique?
41:34 Yeah, what a great question, you're on form tonight girl.
41:38 So, basically, depth of blade is important.
41:42 Understanding the depth of your blade.
41:44 What you should tend to do, if you've got good tension, you shouldn't be going as close
41:48 to the tip as possible.
41:50 So if you're going to go all the way to the tip, you always want a tiny gap.
41:55 Can you see there's a bit of a gap between my finger and the cutting line?
42:01 Now, often, the best way to do this, let me show you, to stop that from happening, is
42:08 how you move your cutting hand.
42:10 So let me show you that.
42:11 So if you focus on my hand, my cutting hand.
42:14 Right, so a lot of people do this, up and down like this.
42:17 Now when you do that, can you see what I'm doing?
42:19 Look at my finger, I'm hitting my finger.
42:22 So what you should do, is rather than going, it's a great question lads, rather than going
42:26 in and out, start on the side and just open and close your finger, your thumb.
42:33 Can you see?
42:34 So go from left to right, rather than up and down.
42:40 Like that.
42:41 Rather than that.
42:43 That will stop that from happening.
42:44 Brilliant tip, thank you Jonathan.
42:45 Pleasure.
42:46 Pleasure.
42:47 Good question.
42:50 Okay, so I'm coming towards the end of my shape.
42:54 I'm going to use a little bit of oil to style the hair.
42:59 Your beautiful model is going to be translating for us tomorrow, it's such a pity, because
43:04 look how gorgeous she is.
43:05 Yeah.
43:06 We wanted her as a model, she's beautiful.
43:07 Hello, honey.
43:10 So just double checking the length of the hand here, making sure it's clean.
43:16 Both sides.
43:21 Okay.
43:24 I'm going to get some oil.
43:40 So can anyone tell me, for those of you who are watching, can anyone tell me how many
43:47 zones you've got?
43:48 I'm using the Davinos oil, only a little bit, you don't need too much of that.
43:53 Okay?
43:54 So I use literally like two pumps.
43:55 And you can see, my hands have got enough in there to cover the hair.
43:59 Get it nice and warm, that way it becomes pliable, and then just gently run it through
44:04 the hair.
44:05 And the haircut should do all the work for you.
44:12 This is just, I just want it to be a very, very sexy, loose, salon-friendly hairstyle.
44:21 Which gives me texture if I want it, or we can wear it smooth if we want.
44:27 And then with the hairdryer, just loosen up the hair, just so you can see the haircut.
44:37 George has answered your question there, Johnny, and he says we've got six zones.
44:42 Six zones, well done, George.
44:44 Is that George from Cyprus?
44:46 It's George from Greece.
44:48 George from Greece, cool.
44:50 Not Charlie.
44:51 Look how beautiful, how soft that shape is.
44:56 I want to colour it.
44:58 I wish I could.
44:59 Yeah, and the other side.
45:01 Just by creating all that softness, the shape moves in so many ways.
45:09 I've got that freedom on top of the short layers.
45:12 I've got that freedom on top of the short layers, I've got the weight on the exterior
45:15 of the shape, and the weight on the underneath shape, and then I've got the weight that sits
45:19 on top.
45:20 So I've got so many options.
45:22 I can hold my haircut for you.
45:28 Have we got any of the powder, any of Angela's powder?
45:32 Yeah.
45:33 I'm going to use a powder which will allow me to have a bit of texture in the hair.
45:39 Okay?
45:42 So there's six zones.
45:43 Let me run through my haircut again.
45:45 Okay?
45:46 So zone one was a side parting, and then down where the head rounds off at the highest point,
45:52 and then a rectangular zone of disconnection.
45:55 Then on the underneath shape, I basically took pivoting sections, wrapping the hair
46:02 round to number one.
46:03 So one, two to one, three to one, four to one, five to one.
46:06 Sorry, vertical sections, that was vertical sections.
46:09 Then I came to the back.
46:12 Okay?
46:13 I took a section from that corner of the rectangle underneath the crown, so left the
46:19 crown out.
46:20 Thank you.
46:21 I'm going to use this.
46:22 This is basically a powder by Davines, and it was designed with Angela.
46:27 Basically what it does, it just makes the hair feel a little bit dirty.
46:34 Don't be scared to use it, because it just makes the hair feel a little bit less fresh.
46:41 When hair's quite fine, if you just rub it in at the roots, when the hair's quite fine,
46:48 it just gives you a little bit of grip.
46:51 The guys in the salon love this.
46:53 They use it nearly everybody.
46:55 So it just gives the hair a little bit of, just it's not so clean.
46:59 Because when the hair's really clean, it can fall quite flat.
47:04 It's nice.
47:05 So just for the guys that don't know Davines, Johnny, it comes in a little brush dispenser
47:08 that you can refill on the bottom there.
47:11 If you pull it up, it hides it away as well.
47:15 So you can just refill.
47:16 In here.
47:17 So you can use it again.
47:19 It's not just a disposable product.
47:21 You fill it with the dust, and then you can reuse that brush as many times as you want.
47:27 When do you use that instead of the texturizing dust and more inside, Johnny?
47:31 I like the texturizing dust.
47:33 The reason why I prefer this is because I actually get to distribute it with the actual brush.
47:38 The tool itself is really nice.
47:42 So what that does, it just gives the hair a little bit of some kind of substance.
47:51 So let me go back through the haircut.
47:54 So zone one was cut with vertical sections, everything to number one.
47:59 One out from the base, triangular cutting line, everything back to number one.
48:03 Then I came underneath the crown with a curved section, vertical section in the center back,
48:09 pulling everything to the center.
48:11 So it was one out, square cutting line, two to one, three to one, four to one, five to one.
48:17 Bearing in mind I used the chipping technique.
48:19 And I did exactly the same-- no, on this side, sorry.
48:23 I worked on the base to where the hairline came up to this area here.
48:29 And then when I got to this point here, I basically started to change the cutting line
48:34 from a square cutting line into something more of a triangular cutting line to maintain the external length.
48:40 Then I came through on the underneath on this side.
48:43 So I took a section which went round and then down to the front recession.
48:48 And again I came through the-- where did I come through? I came from the top.
48:55 Vertical sections, pulling everything back to that point.
49:00 Then I came to the rectangle zone and the circular zone and also the other zone,
49:07 which was obviously slightly more of a triangular shape.
49:10 And what I did is I used pivoting sections.
49:13 So I pivoted this way first, then pivoted this way first, then pivoted this way first.
49:19 So basically you could say I've kind of pivoted from the crown,
49:23 but just three different zones with three different angles of cutting line.
49:26 It just creates this really soft-- if you don't mind standing up for me.
49:34 It just creates really soft, fluid, layered shape.
49:44 Really nice response. Everyone's loving it, isn't it? It looks gorgeous.
49:47 Good.
49:48 [Applause]
49:51 Obviously I just chipped the line in on the external shape just to give a solid shape,
49:57 but obviously a shape that drops into different lengths.
50:00 Okay?
50:02 Thank you very much. Wish us luck for the show tomorrow.
50:04 We're here in Hungary. We've got a show tomorrow, which is going to happen tomorrow evening at 6 o'clock.
50:09 I'm sure some people will be posting some stuff, so keep an eye out.
50:12 I will see you next Tuesday when I should be in London.
50:16 No, next Tuesday I'm going to be--
50:17 Sweden.
50:19 No, next Tuesday I'm going to be at Joshua Lamonica's place doing a little haircut there,
50:24 so I'll be going live from there.
50:26 So we'll see you next week. Thank you so much for tuning in.
50:29 Thank you.
50:30 Bye.
50:31 Bye.
50:33 (laughing)