How to Make Finger Waves hairstyle
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CreativityTranscript
00:00 Hi, Ruth Roach everybody. I'm here at Cutler Salon in Soho and we're doing a Facebook Live Takeover.
00:07 American Salon, I'm taking over! And what I'm going to do, this is Ashley and she is in education for Redken.
00:15 And she has volunteered to be my model today. As you can see, she's kind of a, you know, edgy, kind of a, I can't say it.
00:24 Because I'll get in trouble, but she's, you know, like that. But she's also very glamorous, so it's kind of a contradiction in beauty.
00:32 You can see she's undercut all the way around. And what we're going to be doing is creating a very glamorous type of a look.
00:41 Kind of retro. So what I've done is I've prepared her hair first and I used Pureology. I used a root lift product all the way through.
00:51 Blew it out with a round brush and I've set some of it, but what I want to show you is how to set hair for a wave, to create a wave in the hair.
00:58 So I'm going to use a one inch barrel curling iron. I'm going to take a section that is diagonal this way. So here we go.
01:09 And this is where you want to start the set, actually. I've done the whole thing. I'm just going back and doing a little bit of it for you so you can see where I started.
01:22 So starting here at a diagonal, what I'm going to do is take her hair. I'm going to use a one inch barrel iron and I'm going to go in at the base first and heat that up.
01:35 Because if we start at the ends, what happens is you get a lot of curl at the ends and you don't get enough to create that wave at the base.
01:42 So you can see I'm feeding it through flat so that it has a nice movement to it. So that it's a nice flat barrel curl.
01:53 So rather than a spiral curl or a beachy wave, this is something that is going to create a nice even set so we can get a nice even wave in the hair.
02:05 Then I'm just going to clip it with a little single prong clip. And then I'm going to take the section behind it and we're going to brick lay it.
02:14 So there's my first diagonal section. I'm going to separate it into two so that it's not lined up exactly behind this one.
02:24 And you can also see I'm still on a diagonal moving back this way.
02:28 So going in with my one inch iron at the base, letting that heat up, clicking the iron through, moving out the strand a little bit, rolling it back down.
02:39 So we're constantly going back down to the base and the last thing that we curl is the ends.
02:46 So feeding that in.
02:50 Ends are in there, they don't need to be in there that long.
02:54 Because again we're going for that even curl from roots to ends.
03:00 Then I take a third section and do the same thing.
03:06 So it's important that we have a foundation in the hair, that you use the right products to set that up for yourself.
03:13 So that it has the hold but it has some pliability to it and it's moldable.
03:19 So that has to happen first and then as I'm working here if you have got a finer texture of hair you can work with some hairspray.
03:29 I'm going to work with some hairspray once I brush this out.
03:34 So we're just going to let that cool off for a second and then just show you the set overall.
03:40 So everything comes back at an angle.
03:43 One, two, three, four, five, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah.
03:50 But basically it's brick laid all the way around into the back and this one's falling out.
03:55 You can start to see her color and how gorgeous it is.
04:00 Once I drop this out I'm going to have Ashley explain to you what this is.
04:04 It's Redken City Beads but she's going to tell you what the colors are.
04:08 So these are cool so I'm going to go ahead and take them out.
04:12 Isn't that fun?
04:14 Boing, boing, boing.
04:16 I'm going to take these out.
04:19 I want to leave those three in the front in there for a minute because they're having to cool off.
04:26 So I'll go ahead and start prepping the rest of it.
04:28 So this has given us a nice set for a couple of different things.
04:33 We can do some really flat sort of finger wave type waves.
04:37 We could do something that's really laced or backcombed and big.
04:42 Or we can do something that's more down like what I'm going to do here.
04:46 So I'm going to start by just brushing this out.
04:54 And leaving those three curls in.
05:01 So Ashley, do you want to explain what colors are in your hair here while I have it down?
05:07 Sure.
05:09 So we have at the beginning it's Magenta, City Beats, followed by Ballet City Pink.
05:17 Talk to them.
05:19 Look at her beautiful eyes, right?
05:21 You want to see them.
05:23 So we have Magenta followed by Ballet City Pink into Chelsea Coral.
05:27 And then on the bottom we have Taxi Cab Yellow.
05:30 Taxi Cab Yellow. Awesome.
05:32 They're all City Beats.
05:34 So I'm going to go with her edgy image, but as you can see it's going to start to have a girly kind of vibe.
05:40 So I'm going to take a little bit of cuticle polisher.
05:43 This is a Pureology Styler.
05:45 I'm putting it into my hands and then I'm emulsifying it until it turns into a shine serum.
05:51 You can see that there.
05:53 And then I'm just going to work it through her ends.
06:00 Just to bring them in together a little bit more.
06:09 You can see how pretty that comes in with the colors.
06:13 All right.
06:14 So now what I'm going to do is I'm going to put some -- I want to do a very stylized look.
06:20 So what I'm going to do is I'm going to start by lacing or backcombing this hair to get it to stay together.
06:29 So I'm going to start underneath.
06:36 I'm going to comb this down and then I'm going to use the wide teeth of my comb.
06:42 You can see how that just really pulls it down.
06:45 It's almost like when you want something to look like it's fluid and it's just like moving through those waves,
06:50 you need to create some security and lock those sections together.
06:56 So this is going to give us that security working through and then through.
07:06 What I want to do here is just lock those two sections together.
07:18 I put a little bit of a side part in there so that way it's going to move over to the side.
07:26 Wasn't that profound?
07:27 I put a side part in so it's going to move over to the side.
07:32 Now I'm going to start going underneath the section because we're getting towards the top.
07:36 We don't want that to show.
07:40 This is still underneath on this side and then locked together.
07:47 What's fun too, you can see when it gets really fluffy is the color isn't as fluid looking.
07:54 So by keeping these waves nice and smooth, we're going to see that beautiful flow of one color into the other.
08:04 So here we go, combing through those ends first so that they're ready to go
08:09 and then I'm going in underneath the surface.
08:11 You can see I'm moving like three inches and then pushing back, three inches, pushing back.
08:16 So I'm not trying to get a lot of volume, I'm just getting some hold to lock that together.
08:25 We're in New York, you heard the horn.
08:28 Somebody's saying hello.
08:30 Hello, get out of my way.
08:33 Okay, I'm going to take these out now because they're cooled off.
08:41 I'm going to put a little bit of cuticle polisher in my hands, emulsify it until it breaks into a serum and then through the ends.
08:58 Now what I'm going to do is go for a little bit more volume in the front.
09:01 So I'm going back in the way that I set it with a diagonal parting.
09:05 I'm going to comb it slightly forward and then I'm going to go in at the base and put more in
09:12 because here we want to have some lift coming up.
09:15 So going in at the base, next section, combing it up.
09:23 So it's a different kind of backcombing now than what we just did in the back.
09:28 Next section, same thing.
09:39 And then right about here I'm going to start to drop the amount of lacing that I do and the elevation
09:47 because we don't want this to sit up really, really high to start to bring it back to connecting with what we've done in the back.
09:59 Now what I'm going to do is use a little bit of spray.
10:01 This is Strengthening Control Air Spray from Pureology.
10:05 Just put a little bit of that through and then I'm going to take my natural bristle brush.
10:10 This is my Mason Pearson brush.
10:12 I'm going to start to work this over the surface and just start to press those waves in.
10:25 I'm going to use the mirror now.
10:28 So you can see how big it is at the moment.
10:30 We're going to take that down, but you have to have that foundation in there in order to create,
10:38 to get it all to lock together and stay together.
10:44 So I'm combing it back.
10:46 You can see on this side here where I'm combing it back at an angle like this, just the way we set it.
10:53 Now what I'm going to do is take my comb.
10:56 I've got to go back in the mirror.
11:00 And you can see how it's just straight there.
11:02 I'm going to push it forward and start to use my comb to push this wave in.
11:12 Getting that ridge in there.
11:14 Just like a finger wave we learn in school.
11:17 I think we're still learning that in school.
11:19 I'm not sure.
11:22 And then start to put the wave in the opposite way.
11:31 And here's where we can take some clips, which I don't have.
11:36 They're over in my bag.
11:38 I'm going to go get them.
11:39 I'll be right back.
11:40 Don't go away.
11:52 What I'm going to use are the flat clips.
12:01 So these type of clips that don't have teeth in them.
12:04 You want them to be nice and flat so that you don't catch them in the wave.
12:11 Just pushing all that forward.
12:13 I'm just really on the surface right now, molding that in.
12:20 And create my next wave.
12:22 Again, just using the teeth on the surface.
12:29 Because we really can't get through all that lacing we did anyway.
12:32 We don't want to.
12:33 That's what's giving it the volume that we need.
12:38 So I'm just going to take a little bit of spray.
12:46 And place my clip.
12:53 And this is something where one of my mentors was Trevor Sorby.
12:57 And he used to say, "You've got to find the wave."
13:00 Because sometimes when you brush it down and you get frustrated, there is no wave.
13:05 So by sort of coaxing it in, pushing the hair up that way,
13:09 we're starting to get that sitting in there.
13:19 So you've got to be gentle.
13:22 Like, "Come on, come on, you can do it."
13:25 So I'm going to put the clip at the open end.
13:29 And I'm going to come back this way.
13:35 And we just keep putting that motion in there and putting it back the opposite way.
13:41 I'm just going to take these back sections.
13:47 Just loosely comb them in.
13:52 Now as we get down to the bottom here, there's nothing to clip it to.
13:56 So what I'm going to start to do is go back to my brush.
14:04 And when you're doing something like this, too, you want to work with a working spray.
14:08 You don't want to spray it to death because you want to be able to brush through it as well.
14:21 And see how I'm going to hold it here so that I can brush this around
14:25 as opposed to trying to brush through that again.
14:27 Holding it like a panel, brushing it through, and then tucking that under.
14:41 And what will happen now as we get to the back is you'll start to see--
14:44 is it taxi cab yellow? Taxi cab yellow ends to finish off the look.
15:01 So we'll just take a little more spray.
15:08 And on the side, if someone isn't undercutting--
15:11 this actually has enough hair for like 20 people still with all that hair undercut underneath.
15:17 So if someone has all this hair as well back into it, you can just take a clip
15:25 and just place it for a second.
15:29 Get that wave in there.
15:37 See how I'm pushing it the different directions?
15:46 You just get that beautiful undulation going on.
15:55 So if this was for a photograph, I would spend a lot more time really smoothing it.
16:01 But this is how I would smooth it.
16:09 And it's the kind of thing, too, just like on a client in everyday life where you're just like,
16:13 "Oh my God, that one hair is really getting to me."
16:16 But nobody hangs out that close together.
16:18 I mean, some people do, but usually not in the back of the head.
16:23 So wherever you are, make sure you get a step away so that you can see
16:28 what the rest of the world sees and you're not right on top of your work all the time.
16:42 So this is very sculpted.
16:44 Now that's had a chance to sit like that.
16:47 I'm going to take this out, drop it on the floor because that's what you should do.
16:54 Take these out, take this out, and just check it out.
17:10 And then she just gets this very retro look that could then be brushed out if you want a looser look.
17:21 So this is how you get that foundation of the wave in there for whatever you want to see.
17:26 You want to put like a texture iron through the ends.
17:29 You can have different results going on there.
17:42 Ooh, I like that.
17:44 That's even better.
17:46 Ashley likes it, too.
17:47 Beautiful.
17:49 I like the color.
17:51 So that's Ashley, City Beats hair color here from Breadkin.
17:55 It's awesome.
17:56 It's beautiful.
17:57 It's brand new.
17:58 And then we have created this nice glamorous look for a very edgy color and undercut haircut
18:05 so we get this contradiction in beauty.
18:09 So that was our Facebook Live takeover for American Salon.
18:14 And thanks for joining us.
18:16 I hope you enjoyed it.
18:17 I hope you got something out of it.
18:19 And that's it for now.
18:20 Have a great day.
18:21 Bye-bye.
18:22 [laughter]
18:23 [BLANK_AUDIO]