Tartu is Estonia's epicentre of culture and its not afraid to be bold. Setomaa, the Seto people, one of the oldest ethnic groups in the country, seeks to preserve its centuries-old traditions, but invites you to learn more.
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00:00 (upbeat music)
00:02 - Welcome back to Discover Estonia.
00:06 We're in Tartu, the second largest city
00:08 and one of the European capitals of culture in 2024.
00:11 This is where Estonia's first theater was built,
00:14 its first newspaper published,
00:16 and its first song festival was held.
00:18 It's our starting point to learn about Estonian culture
00:20 in all of its many forms.
00:22 Come with me.
00:23 (upbeat music)
00:28 Tartu is the cultural epicenter of Estonia.
00:31 There always seems to be something going on,
00:33 like this folk dance performance
00:34 we stumbled on in the park.
00:36 (upbeat music)
00:39 Chief among the city's creative spaces is Aparadi Tehas,
00:43 a former factory complex
00:44 that's now a hip gathering spot for artists.
00:47 - Here we are here in Aparadi Tehas,
00:49 where are many galleries with international residences
00:53 and artists coming here.
00:54 I think it's a very vibrant city.
00:56 The feeling is very youthful.
00:58 Tartu University is bringing in a lot of students
01:02 from Estonia, but also abroad.
01:05 - We visited one of the galleries in Aparadi Tehas.
01:08 Haki Gallery features work
01:10 from young up-and-coming Estonian artists.
01:13 It's also recently become a safe haven
01:15 for Ukrainian artist, Victoria Berezina,
01:18 who fled her home in Herson after the Russian invasion.
01:21 (speaking in foreign language)
01:26 (upbeat music)
01:28 - Modern Estonian culture is evolving with the times.
01:44 Now let's head south to find out
01:46 how one of the country's oldest ethnic groups
01:48 is trying to preserve its age-old traditions.
01:54 Arriving in Seto Ma can feel a bit
01:56 like stepping back through time.
01:58 The region straddling the border with Russia
02:00 is inhabited by the Seto people.
02:02 They have their own dialect, religion,
02:05 and traditions they've fiercely maintained for centuries.
02:07 - Before 100 years ago,
02:10 this was absolutely 100% oral culture.
02:14 People were illiterate,
02:15 and every knowledge you had, you had to pass on orally.
02:19 I'm often thinking that it must have been
02:21 like living in a musical,
02:22 because the Setos have songs for every occasion,
02:25 for working, for herding, for partying.
02:29 And this was how knowledge and traditions
02:33 and tales were passed on.
02:34 - Helen Kulvik has been living in Seto Ma for years.
02:39 She's taking us to learn
02:40 about the Seto polyphonic singing tradition, called lelo.
02:45 But first, we need to get dressed for the occasion.
02:47 So Helen, in a lot of cultures,
02:50 it can be seen as a bit controversial
02:52 to put on cultural clothing
02:53 if you're not part of the community.
02:55 In Seto Ma, it's encouraged.
02:56 Can you explain to me why that is?
02:58 - I think we just want to learn about the community
03:01 and the culture as much as possible.
03:03 And by getting dressed up in a national costume,
03:06 you kind of start understanding the culture so much better,
03:09 because you understand which place works where.
03:12 And we also like to see how a person transforms
03:16 through this process.
03:19 - All right, well, now it's my turn.
03:21 Helen and Jana are gonna help me dress up Seto style.
03:24 - And every woman has different.
03:26 - Yes.
03:27 - Like, as you see, all our patterns are different.
03:28 - Oh, wow, yeah.
03:29 - Yeah, there are no two that I like in the world.
03:32 - Like a snowflake.
03:33 - Yes.
03:34 - It's said that you can hear a Seto woman
03:36 before you see her,
03:37 because of the clanging of all of her silver jewelry.
03:40 My headpiece, or vanik, is different from Helen and Jana's,
03:44 because I'm not married.
03:45 Married Seto women also wear a large silver brooch,
03:48 a symbol of fertility that's passed on through generations.
03:52 Well, now I'm all dressed up and ready to party,
03:54 thanks to you.
03:56 We're gonna go listen to some Lelo music.
03:58 Are you ready to go?
03:58 - Yeah. - Oh, yes.
03:59 (laughing)
04:00 (singing in foreign language)
04:02 - Lelo singing is believed to be about 2,000 years old.
04:05 It's still considered a crucial part
04:07 of Seto people's cultural identity.
04:09 So, Jana, can you describe a little bit Lelo singing?
04:11 What are we gonna hear?
04:14 - So, I'm going to sing words, or a line,
04:19 and the choir is repeating it.
04:22 And there is one woman who is singing this higher voice
04:26 called kille.
04:27 - Okay, great.
04:28 Let's take a listen.
04:28 (singing in foreign language)
04:31 This song is about asking the sun to go down,
04:34 so the working day can end.
04:35 As you can hear, there's still a lot more songs
04:38 left to discover.
04:39 So, thanks for watching and stay tuned.
04:41 Our trip isn't over here in Estonia.
04:43 So, see you soon.
04:43 Bye-bye.
04:44 (singing in foreign language)
04:48 (singing in foreign language)
04:52 (singing in foreign language)
04:56 (singing)
04:58 I love it.