“Uzuki is so special because our restaurant is making 100% buckwheat noodles every day by hand.” Bon Appétit spends a day on the line with soba master Shuichi Kotani preparing his signature buckwheat noodles at Uzuki in NYC. These noodles are some of the most difficult to make in the world and are a process that demands serious meditation beforehand.
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LifestyleTranscript
00:00 I've been a soba master for 25 years.
00:04 The Uzuki restaurant is so special
00:06 because our restaurant is making 100% buckwheat noodles
00:10 every day by hand.
00:11 It's so difficult to make it because no gluten, no glue.
00:15 Usually, soba restaurants are using 20% gluten-free flour
00:20 because the technique is so difficult.
00:22 Meditation skills are the most important secret key
00:25 to do this technique.
00:27 So my finger can see inside the core.
00:31 Buckwheat has prevention of many, many diseases.
00:35 So I cannot stop researching to share.
00:38 That is my life work.
00:40 Hi, my name is Shuichi Kotani.
00:48 This is my restaurant, Uzuki.
00:50 Please follow me.
00:51 This is a cafe as our waiting area.
00:56 This is our restaurant.
00:58 This design is inspired from the 19th century
01:01 Brooklyn Greenpoint mix with Japanese traditional soba restaurant.
01:06 Our concept is like a meditation spot, not only restaurant.
01:10 Let's start. Let's go.
01:11 So now it's 10 a.m.
01:13 Before making soba noodle, I have to make the duck broth.
01:16 This duck bone and the chicken bone prepared yesterday.
01:24 This dish is our signature duck shio soba and the ume shio soba.
01:28 We are cooking for the three type of the duck.
01:31 Chinese Peking duck, Japanese roasted duck, and French duck confit.
01:35 This is duck bone mixed with chicken bone, too.
01:38 Only duck bone is gonna be iron-y more than chicken bone.
01:42 More balanced with chicken bone.
01:44 So I add in water, and then my convection oven is ready.
01:48 Perfect temperature.
01:49 I don't want to mix with another garnish for the six hour
01:52 because change color for the simple flavor from the whole bone.
01:56 Umami flavor is explosion.
01:58 The temperature I set for 280 Fahrenheit, six hours.
02:02 Keep simmering, low and slow.
02:04 I don't want a strong boiling because taste become more iron-y.
02:19 Duck broth is combined with dashi from these ingredients.
02:23 This is everything I want to check for the portfolio for the umami broth.
02:28 I'm using four kind of sardine and with premium kombu.
02:32 He grind all of the ingredients for the duck shio soba.
02:35 Just two spoons, then mix for the complete our duck broth.
02:39 So I want to check the balance with him before grind it.
02:45 Some season is more salty, some season more bitter.
02:49 So I have to check and control.
02:54 So I want to sharpening the knife
03:07 because today is coming big tuna from Japan.
03:10 So I need to sharpening knife before arrived.
03:13 This is a Yanagi knife is using for the cutting fish.
03:18 Japanese knife has edge only one side.
03:21 I'm using for the 20 years.
03:23 And a little bit water and then sharpening like this.
03:27 This is a very fine stone, the ango, quarter coin.
03:31 I make sure for the test cutting like this.
03:34 This is a cleaning tool.
03:37 And then finally I check for the edge.
03:39 It's ready.
03:41 This is a vegetable knife, Usuba knife.
03:43 For the Japanese chef using a lot for the long vegetable.
03:47 I need to be very straight for the long daikon radish.
03:51 I'm checking that each edge can control easily like a paper thing.
03:59 Okay.
04:00 Ready to use.
04:03 Okay, now is the time to making soba noodle.
04:07 [upbeat music]
04:10 Now I want to go to the meditation room.
04:14 This is a meditation space for making the soba tea before started.
04:20 This is a binchotan inside.
04:22 The charcoal filter water, power water.
04:25 This is a roasted buckwheat making tea.
04:28 Routine, vitamin.
04:30 Buckwheat is natural medicine.
04:36 So after the meditation, I can focus more making the dough
04:40 because technique is so difficult.
04:42 Matcha ceremony is easy to melt into the water.
04:47 This flavor is suddenly making for the meditation very quick.
04:54 Deep breath.
04:58 [inhales]
04:59 Now we're ready to making soba noodle.
05:12 Let's go.
05:13 [upbeat music]
05:16 This is a kneaded ball we call the kibachi.
05:22 Very special Urushi coating.
05:24 Urushi is a protection for the bacteria.
05:27 This is I'm using for over 10 years.
05:30 This is a samui, real Japanese chef coat.
05:34 Like, looks like a denim.
05:37 So very flexible to movement.
05:40 It's a very simple material.
05:43 And then this is most important.
05:45 This is making for my backbone is go making straight.
05:56 Then more easy to movement.
05:59 This is a buckwheat just grind from store mail.
06:02 And then I mix with 4% for the matcha powder.
06:06 I'm making for the one kilo buckwheat flour.
06:09 Is a 4% it's gonna be 40 gram a lot.
06:12 Matcha soba noodle for cold dishes.
06:15 I'm using for the hours deluxe sashimi soba
06:18 and then salmon ikura and then uni ikura soba.
06:21 Deluxe sashimi has seven type of seafood.
06:24 Matcha makes natural bitter and then seafood example for uni,
06:29 sea urchin is sweet.
06:31 So that is making good balance.
06:33 Then first is I'm using for the shifter.
06:36 So the shifter is making more fine.
06:41 It's meaning easy to mix with water.
06:44 Buckwheat doesn't have a gluten.
06:46 Is very hard to soaking up water.
06:48 This is a very important process.
06:50 The after filter become very like snow.
06:55 And then matcha powder.
06:57 Shifter too.
06:59 So after the shifter is easy to soaking up each part.
07:05 Then now start to mix before adding water.
07:11 My brain now is after the meditation is a lot of serotonin
07:16 come from this buckwheat and the matcha.
07:18 This buckwheat grow in the Rochester, New York.
07:21 Rochester, New York is a six hours driving from New York City.
07:25 Is very similar weather with Japan.
07:28 Natural water come from the Finger Lake from Canada.
07:31 This is a hundred percent organic buckwheat.
07:34 This water is the charcoal, binchotan filter water
07:38 and then have to mix quickly.
07:40 So I start to movement my body.
07:45 Already my brain now is empty.
07:48 So I can see 300 degree.
07:51 I can see in the bottom and so back through to my finger like using.
07:56 And then my old joint start to moving.
08:00 And then close eyes.
08:02 I just my sense using for the nose and the finger, ear, hearing.
08:08 This is people say like a zone, meditation zone.
08:12 So now my body is a very automatic movement.
08:16 Like looks like dancing with the buckwheat.
08:19 If you start to open eyes, so only focus on the surface.
08:23 I cannot feel for the hundred percent.
08:25 I have to close eyes this time.
08:28 I can see more, more than usual.
08:32 This is a Mizumawashi processes.
08:34 Mizu is a water.
08:36 Mawashi is like a rolling.
08:38 This is Mizumawashi.
08:40 So my brain now is very happiness like a life.
08:44 More water.
08:45 This is a motion I call the ocean wave.
08:52 Looks like hitting each ball.
08:54 Looks like ocean.
08:56 And then it's kind of change like a volcano.
09:02 Is like a more dynamic movement.
09:06 I can feel it's very good now.
09:13 The dough is ready.
09:15 I can feel, I can touch.
09:17 The texture is like similar like my ear.
09:20 Like this.
09:21 So I have to waiting for the good timing.
09:24 Now is perfect.
09:25 Making one dough.
09:29 This is a Kone.
09:30 Kone is a kneading process.
09:33 I want to see inside more deeply.
09:37 So I have to spread two ball.
09:40 This is my technique, original technique.
09:44 So used to be people kneading one dough.
09:48 So my style is spread two dough.
09:51 Its texture is more become amazing.
09:57 This is a Tsunodashi.
09:59 Tsunodashi is like a acorn.
10:01 Making acorn.
10:03 Air out.
10:05 Air out all air from the dough.
10:08 Like a ceramic.
10:10 Air pocket out like this.
10:12 From this part is starting break more and more quickly.
10:16 So I have to make it like a ceramic.
10:19 Like this.
10:20 Air pocket out like this.
10:22 From this part is starting break more and more quickly.
10:26 I have to finishing.
10:28 This is a buckwheat flour.
10:31 And then only center part more white.
10:34 This is making flat.
10:36 This is Tenoshi.
10:38 Te is a hand.
10:39 Noshi is a rolling.
10:41 Making spread out more and more.
10:43 Then start to using a rolling pin.
10:47 This is Kokutan.
10:48 Very heavy rolling pin.
10:50 And also this is a very limited.
10:52 Because this Udo is so special.
10:54 Very straight.
10:56 Craftman is already leave.
10:58 Passed away.
11:00 Is meaning all the people, all the generation is no more rolling pin in Japan.
11:05 This is a most antique tool in Japan.
11:09 I'm using for the over 20 years now.
11:14 I'm going for the making thing.
11:17 Until 1.5 millimeter.
11:21 If stopping, it's start to break.
11:23 Impossible to fix it.
11:25 Because no glue.
11:27 Very sensitive.
11:29 Time is now 12 p.m.
11:32 Fish coming from the Japan.
11:35 I cannot stop.
11:37 I want to check fish.
11:39 For the more rolling.
11:46 Then start to using a long rolling pin.
11:49 This is a Maki-bo.
11:51 Maki is protect to the moisture.
11:54 Because dough is getting bigger and bigger.
11:57 I need to wrap same time.
12:00 Now is making a square.
12:03 Now is a very easy to break.
12:12 Like a glass.
12:13 This is like a cat paw.
12:15 Cat paw is more control easy.
12:18 I'm learn from the Mr. Oguchi.
12:24 He's already passed away long years ago.
12:26 I'm final student with him.
12:28 He's a genius.
12:29 He's an entrepreneur.
12:30 He's architecture.
12:32 He's a sovereign master.
12:34 His energy is come my shoulder.
12:37 Is working together for the keep researching.
12:40 Because long history.
12:42 Dark wheat has many nutrient.
12:44 Natural medicine.
12:46 I'm researching for the prevention many disease.
12:49 Now is ready.
12:53 Just cut.
12:54 This process is a tatami.
12:56 Tatami is a folding dough.
12:58 Tatami.
12:59 So beautiful, right?
13:06 I'm folding four times.
13:09 Become like this.
13:12 This is cutting guide board.
13:15 So making flat.
13:17 This is a namabune.
13:20 This is keep moisture in this box.
13:23 This is a soba kiri bocho.
13:26 Soba is a buckwheat.
13:27 Kiri is a cut.
13:28 Hocho is a knife.
13:30 Soba kiri bocho.
13:31 Three pound.
13:32 This material shark skin.
13:34 Shark skin.
13:35 Because I'm using long hour cutting.
13:38 Sometime four hours keep cutting.
13:41 Four hours.
13:42 So this grip is a help.
13:44 This is over two thousand dollar.
13:46 This is cheap one.
13:48 This is I have a memory for the long years.
13:51 So first of my salary everything going to the, you know,
13:55 two thousand dollar for the like a camera.
13:57 Yeah, this is my passion.
13:59 I cannot change.
14:01 26 years still work.
14:03 Yeah, Japanese material very strong.
14:05 Let's go.
14:07 Sometime I'm cutting for the few hours.
14:10 Non-stop.
14:13 Separate.
14:31 Separate the noodle.
14:37 And then just go straight to this wooden box.
14:58 Two, three hours in the keep aging is a texture much better.
15:03 So you can cook for the right away.
15:05 So but the Uzuki restaurant is always aging two, three hours.
15:09 Next is break down tuna for the sashimi soba.
15:12 This is a bluefin tuna.
15:23 Bluefin tuna.
15:24 So can I see?
15:27 This is Sato.
15:28 He's a famous sushi chef in New York.
15:30 He's always find good quality fish for us.
15:34 So I want to check the taste and the texture and then smell and the color.
15:39 It's good.
15:42 Thank you.
15:43 So, oh, this is from Hokkaido.
15:48 The uni.
15:49 This is for the uni ikura soba and the deluxe sashimi soba.
15:53 So beautiful.
15:56 Nice.
15:57 Okay, let's go cut the fish.
16:03 This is a home-grown tuna.
16:08 It's come from Japan.
16:09 Tuna has three different parts.
16:11 This chiai blood part and then akami and the ring.
16:15 And then chuutoro is a more fatty part.
16:18 So first let's try to take the chiai part, the blood part.
16:22 So this is more the taste like just iron.
16:25 This part is better for the cook.
16:28 Tuna steaks.
16:29 Now take the ring part, red part.
16:32 This is more tasty.
16:36 This is harami skin.
16:39 So it'll be harder.
16:41 Everything going to our staff meal.
16:44 So no throw.
16:45 We are making sushi block like this.
16:50 Saku is a fillet.
16:51 Then easy to prepare for the sashimi.
16:55 So one deluxe sashimi soba is two piece each.
16:58 Deluxe sashimi soba has two part.
17:01 Akami part and the mix with the chuutoro part.
17:04 This is enough for the 60 order for this block.
17:07 Decided position and then just straight cut.
17:20 And then same like this size.
17:22 One finger half, just go straight.
17:24 This is akami.
17:27 I like more akami because more tasty.
17:31 You can taste like more real tuna.
17:34 The fat part is more enjoy for the texture like this.
17:38 Okay chef, can you keep for this super freezer?
17:43 - Sure. - Okay.
17:44 Thank you.
17:46 Now I'm making soba tofu.
17:48 [soft music]
17:53 The soba tofu is with dashi broth,
17:56 with wasabi and with the scallion.
17:58 Very simple ingredients, but the process is very unique.
18:02 Japanese tofu usually using a soybean with nigari and then salt.
18:07 So but Uzuki soba tofu a little bit different.
18:10 I'm using a soy milk.
18:12 I'm using honkuzu.
18:13 This is a very healthy more than other starch.
18:16 Also price is a 10 time corn starch.
18:18 Makes more like a soft, like a melt easily in mouth.
18:24 This is a made from the root vegetable.
18:26 Mix like this.
18:28 It's much healthy benefit more than potato starch, corn starch, tapioca starch.
18:34 This is a best starch in the world.
18:36 Little bit salt, mix it.
18:39 And then little bit sugar.
18:43 And then this is a sesame paste, the natural sesame paste.
18:47 This is a more open the flavor, making rich flavor, rich taste.
18:52 I'm making this tofu the two times every day.
18:56 This one have to heat up for the making thick because I using a starch.
19:01 Making good texture, I cannot directly heat.
19:05 I have to simmering.
19:07 I'm doing double boiler like this.
19:09 This is a key.
19:10 Control the temperature little by little.
19:13 I just keep mixing like this until thick.
19:17 This is a very sensitive taste, so I cannot heat directly.
19:21 Taste will become bitter.
19:23 I have to cook five minutes.
19:25 Yeah, now is getting thicker.
19:27 It's almost there.
19:28 And then finally, I'm mixing with buckwheat seed.
19:32 This one already boiled.
19:34 The mix so good.
19:37 Buckwheat is making nice texture.
19:39 Texture like a quinoa.
19:41 And into the nagashikan, so two layer become like this.
19:45 And then after air out.
19:56 Now it's ready.
20:01 And then keep a refrigerator one hours.
20:04 It's complete.
20:05 Next is grind buckwheat seed for the tomorrow.
20:09 Let's go.
20:10 This is a buckwheat seed.
20:18 In Japan has 11 kind character variety buckwheat.
20:22 In New York is over 50 kind buckwheat.
20:26 And then I still researching for the which buckwheat seed is more unique,
20:31 combining, making taste better.
20:33 This is stone mill grind, little by little.
20:36 Too much, you cannot evenly grind.
20:39 I'm looking for the more fine grind, like a meditation.
20:43 Some buckwheat, the taste is so sour, no delicious for the noodle.
20:49 So I'm choosing for the taste and the texture.
20:52 Harvesting season, October.
20:58 Now I have to investigation for the which buckwheat is delicious
21:03 and then has a potential in the future.
21:05 And if the seed is good taste, I keep for the next three years.
21:10 Buckwheat is three times expensive more than regular wheat.
21:14 So I order for the over $2,000 monthly.
21:19 Now is grind down, so I keep for tomorrow.
21:23 [Music]
21:29 Taste is good, very fresh.
21:32 Now is 4 p.m. I need to prepare for the service.
21:38 Let's go.
21:40 I want to go to the making ceramic.
21:49 Reset second meditation time before opening.
21:53 Ceramic is most important for me.
21:56 I try to make in bowl.
21:58 Ceramic is have to high concentration and also same time I can do a meditation.
22:05 So restaurant is cannot stop until 10 p.m., 11 p.m.
22:10 I need to more high concentration.
22:13 I'm doing this ceramic only two months so far.
22:16 I make 90% ceramic by myself.
22:19 But I think this texture very similar soba.
22:22 It's meaning easy for me to control the clay.
22:25 Almost 5 p.m. I finish this clay so I back to the kitchen to work.
22:30 So now is the time to Mizen Plus.
22:33 [Music]
22:39 First is peeling daikon.
22:43 Next I cut for the red radish.
22:46 Now is I grind like this.
22:49 Fresh wasabi for the sashimi.
22:51 The wasabi have to be fresh before open, have to grind.
22:55 This is duck broth is already rich broth.
22:58 But my restaurant Uzuki is some more exposure umami flavor.
23:03 It's come from this morning okume dashi.
23:06 Just two spoons and then mix for the complete our duck broth.
23:12 [Music]
23:25 Now is 5 p.m. so I change the shoes.
23:28 This is help for the more focus for the good service for the dinner.
23:32 And then now is I'm gonna go put the flag is outside.
23:35 It's meaning opening.
23:37 This is a soba, Japanese soba.
23:40 [Music]
23:44 Ok ready.
23:46 We are open.
23:47 Thank you very much for the following me.
23:49 And now is the time to open my restaurant.
23:52 Thank you very much. Arigato. Bye.
23:54 [Music]
23:59 [BLANK_AUDIO]