The Everest base-camp trek takes days and over 100 kilometers of hiking. Along the journey, teahouses provide a hot meal and a warm bed. But the porters, who carry upwards of 45 kilograms each day, usually stay in separate lodging from the climbers who hire them. And at over 4,200 meters, getting anything to a teahouse, whether on back or by yak, is a logistical nightmare. So, what's it like inside these teahouses? And how do you run a business at the top of the world?
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00:00 Getting anything to a Mount Everest hotel, whether on bag or by yak, is a logistical
00:09 nightmare. And if supplies do manage to arrive, they're expensive. One sack of rice costs
00:16 $60, a gallon of gas $113. These lodges, called tea houses, are some of the highest hotels
00:25 in the world. But on Everest, accommodations for climbers look different from the more
00:32 basic lodging used by porters, who work behind the scenes. So what's it like inside these
00:39 tea houses? And how do you run a business at the top of the world? Up here, a single
00:47 cup of milk tea costs nearly 10 times what it does in the valleys of Nepal. One of the
00:54 main reasons is the amount of effort it takes to get supplies up the mountain. That responsibility
01:01 falls to porters. Where guides work directly with climbers, porters get paid to carry supplies.
01:13 At 18 years old, Shashant is one of the youngest porters in his trekking party. Today, there
01:25 are around 20 kilometers between him and his destination, a tea house in Dhingboche.
01:31 I can carry 40-45 kilos of luggage. But I don't carry much because I don't want to
01:43 spend a lot of money. When I'm down here, I feel like I'm in a theatre.
01:53 They carry supplies over 100 kilometers and up 5,300 meters of elevation to base camp.
02:01 Under Nepalese law, trekking porters are supposed to carry no more than 30 kilos. But this is
02:08 often ignored. And some commercial porters, paid by the load, carry more than their own
02:14 body weight. Further along the path to the tea house, a
02:22 helicopter lands to conduct a rescue operation, a stark reminder of how dangerous this job
02:28 is. But the dangerous conditions haven't deterred the traffic. Even at these high elevations,
02:36 climbers, guides and yaks flow through the narrow trails.
02:45 After seven hours of hiking, Shashant finally arrives at a porter house.
02:52 This is Dhingboche, about 4,400 meters above sea level. Typically, porters aren't required
03:00 to pay for lodging, only the food they eat. Climbers and guides stay separate from porters
03:23 at more spacious lodges. These lodges offer more amenities, but are often too expensive
03:29 for porters. Shashant makes about $11 to $12 a day. He says he spends half and saves the
03:37 rest. Shashant hopes to one day become a trekking
03:41 guide and eventually a mountain guide. But for now, he's enjoying a comfortable place
03:47 to sleep and a hot meal.
04:15 Travellers rest at Dhingboche for two days to acclimate to the high elevation. But Shashant
04:27 can't relax for long. After a day of rest, it's time to pack up and get back on the
04:32 trail. It's a snowy April day in Ferreche. This
04:47 is a popular stop for climbers descending from base camp. But this storm could last
04:52 days, and the visibility is low. A foreboding sign for anyone on their way down the mountain.
05:01 But inside, Shiva Bhadur Basnet already has a fire going. He burns dried yak dung instead
05:08 of wood because it's cheaper and widely available. During the busy season, 20 to 50
05:15 people cram in here each night. Shiva has run this tea house for seven years.
05:42 It's a frequent stop for porters returning from Everest base camp.
05:49 a few days.
06:19 Further up the mountain, there are limited accommodations for porters. If they don't
06:23 have a place to stay, many hike down to Ferreche after delivering the climbers' luggage.
06:30 Porters wake up early and hike about two and a half kilometres back up to meet trekking
06:34 guides before the expedition sets off. So at times, Shiva must have breakfast ready
06:41 at 3am. But tonight, the porters have a chance to rest, so Shiva is preparing a leisurely
06:49 dinner for his guests. When flour costs $60 a sack, the options are limited. But Shiva
06:56 makes the most out of what he has.
07:00 On tonight's menu, noodles, stew and dindor, a thick flour porridge that's a staple food
07:07 in this part of Nepal.
07:36 Tea houses like this look different than the more modern accommodations available to climbers,
07:41 some of whom are paying tens of thousands of dollars to summit Everest. Those lodges
07:46 offer more space and better amenities, like separate rooms and showers. Depending on the
07:52 location, climbers often pay less than $10 per night, up to about $60 if you include
07:57 food and electricity.
08:26 Climbers prioritise the foreign climbers, and while porters aren't explicitly banned,
08:31 it's customary for them to stay elsewhere.
08:44 But running a hotel at this altitude is hard work. Every drop of fuel, every piece of gear
08:51 and every morsel of food he needs to keep the place running must be carried up one step
08:57 at a time.
08:59 Consequently, Shiva's operating costs are astronomical.
09:17 And Shiva has to pass these prices on to his guests. The dindor Bajang is eating cost him
09:24 600 rupees, about double what it costs elsewhere in the country. But Shiva can't push prices
09:31 too high. Despite the remote area, there is some competition. So Shiva works hard to ensure
09:38 this is a comfortable place to stay.
09:43 Additionally, local waste removal incentives provide Shiva with the opportunity to earn
09:50 a little extra money.
09:51 Even with the high cost of doing business, running a tea house still provides Shiva with
10:19 more than he's able to earn in his village. He works here for six months to support his
10:25 family and to send his kids to school. During the off-season, he returns home to farm potatoes
10:31 and maize.
10:58 But beyond the financial pressures, Shiva's livelihood provides an essential service to
11:07 his supporters, travelling on the mountain.
11:34 For Shiva, the hard work is worth it for the warmth and community the tea house provides.
11:59 The atmosphere of the shared dormitory and small dining room is more like a home than
12:06 a hotel. Despite the limited amenities, Shashant says he enjoys the camaraderie tea houses
12:12 provide.
12:13 After reaching base camp and more than a week of hiking, Shashant heads back down the trail
12:37 towards the narrow airstrip at Lukla. From here, the climbers fly back to Kathmandu,
12:46 ending their journey.
12:53 But for many porters, the season is still going. They turn around, tie up their bags,
13:00 and start the trek again.
13:13 the trail.
13:14 The trail continues.