The Chaos of America's Food System
Une enquête vitale sur l'instabilité économique et environnementale du système alimentaire américain, depuis les problèmes agricoles auxquels nous sommes confrontés - perte de sols, épuisement des eaux, changement climatique, utilisation de pesticides - jusqu'à la communauté de dirigeants déterminés à y remédier. Sustainable est un film sur la terre, les gens qui la travaillent et ce qui doit être fait pour la préserver pour les générations futures.
Transcript
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00:07:24 - The native Kickapoo shared how to make syrup
00:07:28 with my fourth great-grandfather in 1830.
00:07:32 And from that time on, syrup has been made each generation.
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00:07:39 - I wanted to do the maple syrup because I really enjoy being in the timber.
00:07:44 I love the sounds and the smells.
00:07:47 It's just a very calming, relaxing environment to be in.
00:07:51 - It's connecting back to a time that was very important to this farm.
00:07:58 It's a sense of pride to see the next generation recapture some of that.
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00:08:08 This farm was settled by my fourth great-grandfather
00:08:12 in October of 1830.
00:08:15 (goat bleating)
00:08:17 In 1981, the farm had been in our family for 151 years at that point.
00:08:23 My grandmother decided that she couldn't take care of the farm
00:08:27 in the way that she had for years
00:08:30 and decided to sell the house yard and the farm buildings
00:08:34 to a conventional farm family.
00:08:37 And then for the next 18 years,
00:08:40 the farm really was farmed conventionally-- corn and soybeans.
00:08:43 And during that period of time was when the fellow that farmed the acreage
00:08:47 was so excited that it was roundup-ready soybeans.
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00:08:58 So then my grandmother bought the farm back.
00:09:03 And I moved back here in the spring of '99.
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00:09:11 It was a very surreal kind of an experience in many ways.
00:09:17 The buildings were in tough shape, so they needed repair.
00:09:21 The house needed repairs, and the land needed to be repaired.
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00:09:28 The soil just didn't seem the same.
00:09:31 A lot of corn stalks were still there two and three years later.
00:09:36 Just weren't breaking down.
00:09:38 And the soil was hard to walk on.
00:09:42 It just didn't feel right.
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00:09:47 - Soil is one of those things that most people just sort of take for granted.
00:09:51 And yet if you think about it as a resource,
00:09:54 it's sort of the most undervalued yet invaluable resource humanity has.
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00:10:00 It's the foundation for terrestrial life.
00:10:02 It's the foundation for agriculture.
00:10:04 And yet we've pretty much, for the modern era,
00:10:07 been treating soil like dirt.
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00:10:20 If you look back at the history of past civilizations,
00:10:23 you keep running into different versions of a very similar story.
00:10:26 You look at Mesopotamia to Greece to Rome
00:10:31 to the southeastern United States to the American Midwest and the Dust Bowl.
00:10:36 It's a whole progression of societies
00:10:39 that have damaged and degraded their soil
00:10:41 and then moved on to the next place.
00:10:44 It would be profoundly unwise to not look back
00:10:49 and try and learn the lessons of those societies,
00:10:52 given that now we don't really have anywhere else to go.
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00:11:01 I've actually been very impressed and amazed
00:11:04 by how simple changes in practices
00:11:06 can greatly reduce the need for agricultural inputs,
00:11:09 fertilizers and herbicides and pesticides in particular,
00:11:12 and buy us some time to essentially think about
00:11:15 how to generate a truly sustainable agriculture.
00:11:18 (birds chirping)
00:11:23 In a typical Iowa cropping system
00:11:26 in which corn and soy are grown in alternate years on the same land,
00:11:30 farmers are looking to have a high yield of corn
00:11:33 by applying a sufficient amount of nitrogen to the soil
00:11:36 in the form of mineral fertilizer.
00:11:38 Weeds are everywhere in these fields,
00:11:41 and farmers have relied more and more on chemicals
00:11:45 that are very effective in suppressing weeds.
00:11:48 If we wanted an agricultural system
00:11:52 that was minimally dependent on non-renewable resources
00:11:56 and that was careful in its impacts on the environment,
00:12:01 what would that system look like?
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00:12:08 We started working on this land in 2001,
00:12:12 and what we found out is that we could reduce
00:12:15 our use of mineral nitrogen fertilizer by 90%
00:12:19 and reduce our use of herbicides by more than 95%.
00:12:23 If we add oats with red clover or oats with alfalfa
00:12:28 to that corn and soy rotation,
00:12:31 this oat crop has this companion of clover
00:12:34 which is taking nitrogen out of the atmosphere
00:12:37 and putting it into the roots, which allows us to back way off
00:12:41 on the amount of mineral fertilizer we use.
00:12:44 We've seen less erosion potential in the longer rotations,
00:12:48 so we've seen these indicators
00:12:50 of improved environmental performance,
00:12:52 and we've also been able to maintain profitability
00:12:55 because of lower input costs in the longer rotations.
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00:13:02 - The basic fact that impedes the adoption
00:13:06 of more diverse, less chemically dependent systems
00:13:09 is that we don't put a price tag on environmental damage.
00:13:13 Impairments of water quality or loss of soil due to erosion
00:13:17 or drift of herbicides onto non-target crops.
00:13:21 The so-called externalities
00:13:23 are not factored into the production equation.
00:13:28 - If the external costs were added back into the cost
00:13:31 of industrial farming, then it would seem much more expensive.
00:13:34 It would seem as expensive as it really is.
00:13:38 The argument that sustainable food is more expensive
00:13:42 goes out the window when you recognize
00:13:44 that sustainable food has far fewer externalities
00:13:47 than industrially produced food.
00:13:50 - Scientists who work for the federal government
00:13:53 have discovered a huge dead zone in the Gulf of Mexico
00:13:56 where fish cannot survive.
00:13:58 It is about the size of Connecticut,
00:14:01 covering nearly 6,000 miles.
00:14:03 - Surface runoff is a very serious problem.
00:14:06 - The primary cause of the dead zone
00:14:08 is nitrogen-based fertilizers
00:14:10 that are washed down the Mississippi River
00:14:12 by spring rains and into the Gulf.
00:14:14 - Suppose that you're a farmer from Illinois,
00:14:16 and you get a letter from the governor from Louisiana
00:14:20 which has a bill in it for $234,000,
00:14:23 and that's your share of the cost
00:14:25 of cleaning up the dead zone in the Gulf of Mexico.
00:14:27 - Kern County is one of several areas in our state
00:14:30 that was found to have high nitrate levels
00:14:32 in its groundwater.
00:14:34 - Increasingly now, the public is having to pay the cost
00:14:37 to take enough of the nutrients out of the water,
00:14:39 the nitrates, et cetera, to make it safe to drink.
00:14:41 - Toledo, Ohio, their water was found to be unsafe.
00:14:44 - Pesticide runoff threatens drinking water.
00:14:46 - High concentrations of nitrates.
00:14:48 - Phosphate pollution.
00:14:50 - They've never had nitrate levels this high.
00:14:52 - Health officials are recommending
00:14:54 that children under six months old not drink the water
00:14:57 what flows from those fields is having a disastrous consequence
00:15:00 on human and aquatic health.
00:15:02 - We have to begin to look at what's going to help solve this.
00:15:06 And so here again, planting crops in a diverse rotation,
00:15:10 it restores the biological health of soil.
00:15:13 And as a result, you're going to have less flooding
00:15:16 because you've got more water going into the soil,
00:15:18 and then during the drought periods,
00:15:20 you're going to have more moisture in the soil
00:15:22 to sustain the plants.
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00:15:26 - So there's a number of things that we know how to do
00:15:28 and can do, but farmers are under this enormous pressure,
00:15:31 you know, to produce as much as possible.
00:15:33 And the good bad news is that we can't do this much longer
00:15:37 because we're using up the natural resources
00:15:41 that we've used to sustain this kind of system.
00:15:44 Even the Ogallala Aquifer,
00:15:46 which is one of the largest aquifers on the planet,
00:15:49 and provides irrigation water for the heartland,
00:15:52 everything from southern South Dakota to Texas.
00:15:55 At the rate that we're drawing it down now,
00:15:57 they're predicting that it will only have water
00:15:59 available for irrigation for another 20 years.
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00:16:07 - There's 120 million acres of corn and soy rotations,
00:16:11 but no farmer goes out there planting corn and soy rotations
00:16:15 because they're in love with corn and soy.
00:16:18 I've actually never met him.
00:16:21 What I've met is farmers who do that
00:16:23 because the whole system is geared towards corn and soy.
00:16:26 From the tractors to the seeders to the elevators,
00:16:29 it's all built around that system.
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00:16:34 We better figure out how to create an economy
00:16:36 for those truly sunk costs,
00:16:38 which are the crops that are part of rotations.
00:16:41 And as a chef, I feel the responsibility
00:16:44 to create something so delicious
00:16:46 that you create a market for it.
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00:17:30 - Spring is my most favorite time of year.
00:17:34 It is this incredible energy flow
00:17:39 up out of the ground,
00:17:42 almost all at once.
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00:17:46 It's not just the seeds we plant coming up,
00:17:50 but it's the push of the buds of the trees.
00:17:55 It's almost everything coming alive again.
00:17:59 And honestly, it's people too.
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00:18:07 It is that period of time
00:18:09 that things look very rosy, usually.
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00:18:15 (vrombissement du moteur)
00:18:18 (vrombissement du moteur)
00:18:22 - Today we're planting potatoes,
00:18:24 and it's cold and blustery out of the north,
00:18:27 but at least it's sunny.
00:18:29 - You can go a little faster.
00:18:31 (vrombissement du moteur)
00:18:33 - If you keep a potato in the dark
00:18:35 and keep it longer than you usually should, maybe,
00:18:39 it starts to get those little eyes on it,
00:18:41 and it starts to sprout.
00:18:43 Well, that's what creates the new potato.
00:18:46 (vrombissement du moteur)
00:18:49 (vrombissement du moteur)
00:18:52 - As Chris and Will and I began talking about this farm,
00:18:56 we felt like we needed to create a different vision
00:18:59 for what it was to become.
00:19:01 When the settlers first came,
00:19:03 they had to be sustainable to create food for themselves.
00:19:08 We wanted to recreate a part of that,
00:19:11 not just growing crops for commodity markets,
00:19:15 but growing crops that we could actually eat
00:19:18 and that we could sell to the community at large.
00:19:23 What we wanted to be about was a change in our food system.
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00:19:41 - We began our farm enterprise
00:19:45 basically around the wild ramp season.
00:19:48 Wild ramps are like a wild onion or a wild leek
00:19:53 that grow natively in woods throughout the Midwest
00:19:56 and through the South.
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00:20:00 We would harvest about 1,000 pounds a week.
00:20:03 And we found a distributor in Michigan
00:20:05 that would take all we could do.
00:20:08 We also realized that we were supplying him,
00:20:11 and he was just the middleman.
00:20:14 Shortly after that, a friend of ours invited us
00:20:17 to a chef's collaborative meeting in Chicago.
00:20:20 As I remember now, there were only maybe a half dozen chefs.
00:20:24 They were all the main guys, and all of them said, "Call us."
00:20:29 At the end of ramp season,
00:20:31 nearly every chef asked, "So what else do you have?"
00:20:35 And we said, "We don't have anything,
00:20:37 but we'll grow whatever you want."
00:20:39 That's how it started.
00:20:41 And they began to provide us with lists of things
00:20:44 that they would like to have.
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00:20:49 - What we do is spend time researching
00:20:53 as many different, weird, and new things
00:20:56 that we can find from all over the world,
00:20:59 all different kinds of tomatoes, kohlrabi, celeries.
00:21:03 We've got some Mexican broccoli that's coming.
00:21:07 Just as much variety as we can possibly do.
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00:21:16 - One of our first chefs that we developed a relationship with
00:21:20 was Rick Bayless.
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00:21:25 Rick has been incredibly supportive
00:21:28 of not just our farm, but farmers in general.
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00:21:34 - We had been buying this Iroquois white corn
00:21:38 from the Iroquois nation,
00:21:40 and it was done in a very traditional style.
00:21:43 And then all of a sudden, they announced
00:21:45 that they weren't going to grow it anymore.
00:21:47 I said that to Marty and Chris,
00:21:49 who, of course, immediately said,
00:21:51 "Okay, well, we're just going to go find that corn then,
00:21:53 and we can maybe grow it."
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00:21:58 - It took nearly two years
00:22:01 to be able to find enough seed to plant eight 200-foot rows.
00:22:06 And we had roughly 63 pounds of corn.
00:22:11 He sat on his counter in the kitchen at the restaurant
00:22:15 and almost cried. He said, "This is it."
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00:22:20 - The processing of the dried corn
00:22:22 was one of the things that gave it its unique character.
00:22:25 So they preserved the seed,
00:22:27 but then they also preserved the culture
00:22:30 of processing that corn,
00:22:33 which I think is an incredibly valuable part
00:22:36 of that whole equation.
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00:22:41 [birds chirping]
00:22:44 - Everybody's familiar with the garlic bulb,
00:22:47 but not everybody does green garlic.
00:22:50 This gives us something early in the spring
00:22:54 to take to the chefs.
00:22:56 We get a good amount per pound,
00:22:59 and it's a lot less work.
00:23:02 - Economically, we've made a conscious effort
00:23:06 to not buy brand-new equipment to save our own seeds,
00:23:10 you know, to be cognizant of our inputs.
00:23:15 And it's worked, but it's at the scale
00:23:19 of what we can accomplish and what we are comfortable with.
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00:23:27 - The size of our farm is 160 acres.
00:23:31 That's really, really small
00:23:33 compared to the conventional farms around here.
00:23:37 A lot of the guys around here would farm
00:23:41 1,000 to 3,000-plus acres.
00:23:45 They probably could not make a living
00:23:48 just on farming 160 acres.
00:23:50 - You know, if they get a bad corn crop,
00:23:53 they're complaining that the crop is trash,
00:23:55 but their prices go way up.
00:23:57 Now they've got a really amazing corn crop,
00:24:00 and they're complaining
00:24:02 because the prices are falling out the bottom.
00:24:04 I mean, that's what happens, though,
00:24:06 when you're relying on somebody else
00:24:08 to set the prices for everything.
00:24:10 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:24:13 - If the conventional farmers around here
00:24:15 did not get subsidies,
00:24:17 they wouldn't be able to make it.
00:24:19 This year, our average per acre
00:24:21 was somewhere around 2,200 an acre.
00:24:24 They're making $400 an acre, maybe.
00:24:28 You know, you look at that
00:24:30 against their cost of everything,
00:24:33 there's not a huge profit margin there for them.
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00:24:40 - Most of our neighbors
00:24:42 are really focused on high yields.
00:24:46 That's what pays their bills.
00:24:49 For us, it's more about quality, quality, quality.
00:24:55 And then it's the relationship that we have with our chefs
00:25:01 that has sustained us long-term.
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00:25:06 If we're going to make a profit,
00:25:08 you got to pay attention to all of those pieces.
00:25:11 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:25:14 - I think the message that the agricultural community stresses
00:25:18 is that chemistry will create higher yields
00:25:22 and feed the world.
00:25:25 Organic growers, on the other hand,
00:25:27 rely on a very important, well-respected science.
00:25:31 It's called biology.
00:25:33 And biology means life.
00:25:35 And we talk about life,
00:25:37 then we go back all the way to the soil.
00:25:41 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:25:43 - We're out in our farming systems trial,
00:25:45 and we're in a project that compares conventional and organic.
00:25:48 These are Roundup Ready soybeans.
00:25:50 They were drilled into the ground here.
00:25:52 You can see it looks quite different
00:25:54 from the organic no-till.
00:25:56 This is treated with chemical salt-based fertilizers
00:25:59 and also with herbicide.
00:26:01 The herbicide is not designed to kill life in the soil,
00:26:05 but it's like a side effect. It just happens.
00:26:08 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:26:10 - There's always the pushback from the industrial model.
00:26:15 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:26:17 Organic can't feed the world.
00:26:19 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:26:21 And after 34 years-- not three or four--
00:26:25 34 years later,
00:26:27 our data shows that yields are the same,
00:26:31 conventional right next to organic.
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00:26:35 When the soil is healthy,
00:26:37 we have shown that yields are improved
00:26:41 in the organic trials when there's issues of drought,
00:26:44 up to 31% higher yields.
00:26:47 So there's the beauty of growing with life.
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00:26:55 2014, we created a white paper
00:26:58 that identified regenerative organic agriculture
00:27:02 as the answer to reversing climate change.
00:27:06 And here's how simple it is. Here's how it works.
00:27:09 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:27:12 Green plants take in carbon dioxide out of the air,
00:27:17 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:27:19 take it up into their leaf stomata,
00:27:22 and turn it into a liquid.
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00:27:27 It's then exuded down into the soil as simple sugars.
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00:27:34 They give it to the microorganisms
00:27:36 that live in that healthy biological soil.
00:27:39 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:27:43 And if we don't destroy them
00:27:46 with tillage and chemicals,
00:27:50 that carbon becomes a part
00:27:53 of that microorganism's molecular structure.
00:27:58 And they hold that carbon in their body for generations.
00:28:02 That's called carbon sequestration.
00:28:04 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:28:07 Using yield as the sole measuring stick
00:28:10 is what got us in trouble in the first place.
00:28:13 We're exchanging short-term gain
00:28:15 for long-term stability.
00:28:17 And we want to feed people for thousands of years,
00:28:19 not just for 50 years.
00:28:21 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:28:23 This is really not about us.
00:28:25 It's about generations to come.
00:28:28 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:28:30 It's about our children and our grandchildren
00:28:32 and our great-grandchildren who look back on us.
00:28:36 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:28:38 And they're going to want to know
00:28:40 what is the legacy that we left.
00:28:42 What did you leave behind for us?
00:28:44 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:28:46 We proved that you could accomplish things
00:28:49 previously thought to be impossible.
00:28:51 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:28:54 And we did it for all of you.
00:28:56 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:28:59 (birds chirping)
00:29:02 - I think industrial agriculture,
00:29:04 back in the early days when I got involved in it,
00:29:07 it really made a lot of sense.
00:29:09 It was really a very sort of seductive message
00:29:12 that I thought had a lot of logic to it.
00:29:14 We're going to improve the efficiency
00:29:16 of agricultural production
00:29:18 and provide greater food security.
00:29:20 It was for the public good.
00:29:22 And people like me, we believed it
00:29:25 because it made economic sense.
00:29:28 The problem was that it simply didn't work.
00:29:32 - Food is the most basic of all human needs.
00:29:36 Man can manage to live without shelter,
00:29:39 without clothing, even without love.
00:29:41 Poverty, unpleasant as it is, is bearable.
00:29:45 But man can't remain alive without food.
00:29:48 - When we had the CBS special "Hunger in America,"
00:29:52 the estimates were at that time
00:29:54 that 5% of the people lived in food-insecure homes.
00:29:59 Today, more than 15% of the people in this country
00:30:03 are classified as being food-insecure,
00:30:05 and more than 20% of our children
00:30:08 live in food-insecure homes.
00:30:10 And the other thing we certainly didn't anticipate
00:30:14 is that the food we're producing with that industrial food system
00:30:17 is not healthy, wholesome food.
00:30:19 It's making people sick.
00:30:21 There's a whole range of health issues
00:30:26 that are going through the ceiling
00:30:28 in terms of cost and incidence
00:30:30 that are related to the American diet.
00:30:32 You can track the increased incidence of those
00:30:34 back to when we began to industrialize agriculture.
00:30:38 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:30:40 - So we started off with something that made sense,
00:30:43 and I don't hold it against the farmers
00:30:45 that got into that system.
00:30:47 I don't hold it against the educators.
00:30:49 What I hold against is people that refused to see the fact
00:30:52 that that system failed to do what we designed it to do.
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00:32:18 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:32:36 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:32:39 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:32:42 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:32:44 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:32:57 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:33:00 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:33:02 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:33:12 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:33:21 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:33:24 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:33:27 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:33:29 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:33:39 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:33:48 ♪ ♪ ♪
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00:34:01 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:34:04 - And that's where Chris and I really began
00:34:07 to think about founding an organization
00:34:09 that worked as a group
00:34:12 so that there were opportunities
00:34:15 for folks who wished to stay on their farms.
00:34:18 That's what we did in 2005
00:34:21 by creating the Stewards of the Land.
00:34:24 Part of what I wanted to do tonight is try to understand
00:34:31 what everybody wants to do and how we can work together
00:34:35 so that we're not all doing it at the same time.
00:34:38 Does that make sense?
00:34:40 - The stewards group works together
00:34:43 as a cooperative model, marketing their own things.
00:34:47 And that way, when our chefs are looking at what's on the list,
00:34:51 they're not getting e-mails from 25 different farms.
00:34:54 They're getting it from one group of farmers.
00:34:57 - How many of you would like to grow spinach?
00:35:00 Shirley? Okay.
00:35:02 We're all doing it chemical-free.
00:35:04 We're trying to create better soils.
00:35:07 If it absolutely doesn't work, it doesn't work,
00:35:10 and he's gonna have to serve okra or something else.
00:35:13 [laughter]
00:35:15 Building that cooperative model
00:35:18 has allowed us to expand exponentially.
00:35:22 We have need for 40 cases of sweet corn
00:35:27 delivered on July 8th.
00:35:30 - They don't mind if it's frozen?
00:35:32 - Yeah. - That's really great.
00:35:34 I am Beth Rinkenberger.
00:35:36 Doug and I have Garden Gate Farm by Fairbury, Illinois.
00:35:39 And we've been in the stewards group since 2008.
00:35:43 ♪ ♪
00:35:48 - Having been raised on a farm,
00:35:51 that's all I've ever known since I was five.
00:35:55 To me, there's no better way of life.
00:35:57 - We actually have growing four to five
00:36:00 different colors of carrots this year.
00:36:02 When I got in touch with the stewards of the land,
00:36:05 I could see that we could use what we have here
00:36:08 for what Marty was wanting.
00:36:10 At that point, I was excited
00:36:12 to be able to find my niche on this farm.
00:36:15 You should have seen the look on the local farmer's face
00:36:18 when I told them that we were picking lamb's quarter
00:36:21 and sending it up to Frontera
00:36:23 to the tune of 40 pounds a week for a while.
00:36:26 'Cause they'd spray Roundup and kill it.
00:36:29 [laughing]
00:36:32 ♪ ♪
00:36:36 - The April meeting of the stewards of the land
00:36:38 was held at the Zaychecks' home.
00:36:40 Kelly welcomed all who were present,
00:36:42 and the old minutes were read by me.
00:36:44 - To make a living on a small family farm,
00:36:46 you have to have people that are willing to buy your product.
00:36:49 - Without the stewards and the help marketing,
00:36:52 we wouldn't have had the connections.
00:36:54 - I was super impressed
00:36:56 that the Dwight crew worked together this week
00:36:59 and coalesced all their orders,
00:37:01 and Cheryl brought them.
00:37:03 That's really great.
00:37:04 - Marty won't say this,
00:37:06 but he has changed the entire face
00:37:09 of local food in the Chicago area.
00:37:12 Not only getting that food to Chicago,
00:37:15 but teaching the farmers
00:37:17 that what they do is valuable.
00:37:19 ♪ ♪
00:37:21 - You all think you don't have anything,
00:37:23 but we went to 26 restaurants,
00:37:26 and we carried product from 16 different farms this week.
00:37:30 That's amazing.
00:37:33 - He just hated seeing farms dying,
00:37:35 and in trying to save his own farm,
00:37:37 he's managed to save a whole lot of other farms in this area.
00:37:41 ♪ ♪
00:37:43 - If we've done a good job
00:37:45 of instilling the idea of working together,
00:37:48 can you imagine what this community
00:37:50 could look like in 20, 30 years?
00:37:53 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:37:57 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:38:02 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:38:07 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:38:12 - Talk about food security
00:38:15 and talk about economic development.
00:38:21 We've done it from within.
00:38:23 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:38:25 - You used to know your farmer.
00:38:26 You didn't need a label.
00:38:27 You know, you knew who provided your food for you.
00:38:30 And...
00:38:32 But for those who go into a grocery store
00:38:34 and never get to meet the farmer,
00:38:36 they're trusting that label.
00:38:38 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:38:40 And sustainable, everything's sustainable now.
00:38:44 You know, how is it that your pasta is sustainable?
00:38:49 And again, how is it that your blouse is sustainable?
00:38:51 You know, tell me.
00:38:52 Sustainable for us was the day
00:38:54 that I was able to retire from nursing
00:38:56 and work on the farm full-time.
00:38:58 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:39:00 - Some consumers want to feel as if
00:39:03 they're supporting, you know, their local small farmers.
00:39:07 Some consumers feel that it's more sustainable.
00:39:12 Some consumers believe that it's tastier and fresher
00:39:16 if it's grown locally.
00:39:19 But what isn't clear is what is local.
00:39:24 On average, we found that people said about 100 miles.
00:39:29 Processors and retailers, they think if it's a day's drive.
00:39:33 But if Tropicana imports concentrate from Brazil
00:39:39 and makes the juice in Florida
00:39:42 and sends it to Georgia, is that local?
00:39:45 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:39:47 I don't know.
00:39:50 If you have a very effective package,
00:39:54 every single customer gets exposed
00:39:57 to that package billboard.
00:39:59 And some of them buy it.
00:40:02 And when they finally use it and it's sitting in front of them,
00:40:05 they have the opportunity to look at the whole package.
00:40:09 And we compare that to showing a 15-second commercial
00:40:13 at 9 o'clock at night.
00:40:16 Packaging is where the excitement is.
00:40:20 Because it's lasting.
00:40:23 It hits everybody.
00:40:25 It hits you again and again and again.
00:40:28 And so you're seeing more persuasive messages
00:40:32 on those packages.
00:40:34 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:40:36 There's something just inherently good
00:40:39 about all-natural.
00:40:41 And I always say cyanide is all-natural.
00:40:45 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:40:47 - The food industry doesn't provide the complete story.
00:40:52 I notice that there are fewer calories in a slice of bread,
00:40:56 but there are also thinner slices of bread.
00:40:59 When someone says low-fat,
00:41:02 they quite often are high in something else,
00:41:05 like carbs.
00:41:07 I mean, if you're low in fat, low in carbs,
00:41:09 then what the hell is it
00:41:11 if there's nothing left in the product?
00:41:13 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:41:14 - Today, they're focusing more
00:41:16 on what products don't have
00:41:19 than what products do have.
00:41:21 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:41:22 - I think the biggest trend is gluten-free.
00:41:25 Gluten-free oatmeal or gluten-free rice or whatever,
00:41:28 none of which had gluten in them ever to begin with.
00:41:31 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:41:32 - If you ask me what's the single biggest nutrition problem
00:41:35 we have in America,
00:41:37 the consumer really isn't sure
00:41:40 what they should or shouldn't do.
00:41:42 And everyone is focused
00:41:45 on what is in their best interest to tell people.
00:41:48 - It's a brand-new research to tell you about.
00:41:50 - Are these foods making us sick?
00:41:52 - Fiber and omega-3s? - Eat more soy.
00:41:54 - Superfoods? - Soy is bad.
00:41:56 - Basic nutrition advice could not be more boring.
00:41:59 Eat your veggies. Don't eat too much junk food.
00:42:02 Come on, nobody wants to hear that.
00:42:04 It's much more interesting
00:42:07 to hear that some additive
00:42:09 is either going to make you live forever
00:42:11 or kill you immediately.
00:42:12 That's much more fun to read about.
00:42:15 Food companies are deeply invested
00:42:18 in trying to promote a favorable image
00:42:20 so that people will buy their products.
00:42:23 They're very focused,
00:42:24 and they've got a lot of money to spend.
00:42:27 - Right now, the Robert Wood Johnson Foundation
00:42:29 is spending more money on the childhood obesity problem
00:42:32 than any other agency or government in the world--
00:42:34 about $100 million a year.
00:42:38 - The food industry spends $100 million a year
00:42:42 by January 4th,
00:42:44 just marketing just unhealthy foods just to children.
00:42:49 ♪ ♪
00:42:53 ♪ ♪
00:43:00 - Summer is a season that's coming fast.
00:43:04 You're watching everything just green up around you.
00:43:09 Intensely green.
00:43:11 All different colors of green.
00:43:13 And the sunlight hours are really long.
00:43:16 You get long days, short nights.
00:43:20 It's a time of, like, intensity.
00:43:24 Lots of intensity.
00:43:27 It's the bounty that we've been waiting for.
00:43:31 ♪ ♪
00:43:36 - We try to pick our greens in the mornings
00:43:41 when it's still fairly cool out
00:43:43 so that they don't get all wilty.
00:43:45 This week on our delivery list,
00:43:48 we're taking snow peas, turnips,
00:43:50 agretti, fennel flowers,
00:43:52 just a whole menage of really kind of weird stuff.
00:43:56 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:44:01 - They're green beans,
00:44:03 but they're called empress green beans.
00:44:05 Empress is the kind.
00:44:07 When they start to get that size,
00:44:10 they get the seeds in them.
00:44:13 That's really when they're too big.
00:44:15 These are the best ones, these little guys.
00:44:17 They're the best ones.
00:44:19 ♪ ♪
00:44:22 This is one of our trade-out jobs.
00:44:25 ♪ ♪
00:44:27 - Will hates doing beans, so I'll say,
00:44:30 "Okay, you do the garlic.
00:44:31 You dig the garlic, and I'll do the beans,"
00:44:33 'cause I don't like having to dig the garlic.
00:44:35 ♪ ♪
00:44:37 - I don't like picking beans at all.
00:44:39 ♪ ♪
00:44:41 - Marty gets out of a lot of stuff he doesn't like.
00:44:43 ♪ ♪
00:44:45 - On a small, diversified farm,
00:44:48 it's important to have great communication
00:44:52 with your coworkers.
00:44:54 ♪ ♪
00:44:56 - We try our best to support each other
00:44:58 as best we can.
00:45:00 However, they think that I get the cushy jobs.
00:45:03 [laughs]
00:45:05 - I don't know if Dad tries to get out of a lot of things.
00:45:08 He does get out of a lot of things,
00:45:10 but I don't know if it's on purpose or not.
00:45:12 [laughs]
00:45:13 Milling's not necessarily getting out of anything.
00:45:15 We don't like milling, so he can stand in the mill room
00:45:18 and do all that.
00:45:20 He does a lot.
00:45:22 - How much are you talking a week?
00:45:24 - But he really enjoys talking on the phone and emailing.
00:45:27 [laughs]
00:45:29 ♪ ♪
00:45:32 - The jobs get done,
00:45:34 maybe not quite to everybody's liking all the time,
00:45:37 but we do get it done.
00:45:39 I did get to help her pick beans yesterday, though.
00:45:42 [door opens]
00:45:44 [soft music]
00:45:47 ♪ ♪
00:45:52 ♪ ♪
00:45:55 - It's not just about us.
00:45:58 It's not about Spence Farm.
00:46:00 It's not about Marty, Chris, and Will.
00:46:02 ♪ ♪
00:46:05 It's about creating an awareness
00:46:09 that we all are engaged
00:46:13 and reliant on farms
00:46:16 from where our food comes from.
00:46:18 ♪ ♪
00:46:26 - When we began, we were taking product
00:46:29 to the local grocery store.
00:46:31 And one day,
00:46:33 one of our neighbors that lives about four miles over,
00:46:37 she stopped us.
00:46:39 She says,
00:46:41 "Don't stop doing what you do.
00:46:44 You're keeping me alive."
00:46:47 ♪ ♪
00:46:49 And she says, "I've got cancer.
00:46:52 I buy as much stuff
00:46:55 as I can possibly get from you guys
00:46:58 because I know it's chemical-free,
00:47:01 it's healthy, and it's good for me.
00:47:04 And you're keeping me alive."
00:47:07 ♪ ♪
00:47:12 It's even more important for us at that point
00:47:15 to realize the scope of what we're doing
00:47:18 and why we're doing it...
00:47:20 ♪ ♪
00:47:22 And to do the very, very best that we can possibly do.
00:47:26 ♪ ♪
00:47:29 It's a noble calling to be able to provide food
00:47:32 for your fellow human beings.
00:47:34 ♪ ♪
00:47:41 [birds chirping]
00:47:44 [metal clanging]
00:47:47 ♪ ♪
00:47:51 - We had Greg Wade from Publican Quality Bakery
00:47:55 come down and help us.
00:47:57 We welcome the extra help any time, honestly.
00:48:02 - I like visiting Spence Farm as often as I can.
00:48:06 It removes me from the hustle and bustle of Chicago
00:48:09 and strips away all that superfluous nonsense
00:48:12 that for some reason matters here.
00:48:15 If Marty has a bunch of tomato steaks to pound in,
00:48:19 you know, I'll go down and help him.
00:48:22 ♪ ♪
00:48:27 - Our chefs that come,
00:48:29 they're getting to reconnect with the farm
00:48:33 in such a way that it's really hands in the dirt.
00:48:36 And it gives us the opportunity
00:48:39 to explain why we do things a certain way.
00:48:43 Along the road there, we've got red clover.
00:48:46 We'll probably put that into buckwheat.
00:48:48 - Okay. Well, I definitely plan on using buckwheat.
00:48:51 ♪ ♪
00:48:53 - My relationship with Marty is one of the most
00:48:55 important relationships I've ever developed.
00:48:58 As I was learning how to bake
00:49:01 with local fresh-milled wheats and other whole grains,
00:49:05 he was also learning how to grow them,
00:49:07 and together we were kind of learning
00:49:09 how to store and mill them,
00:49:11 and it's been a pretty dynamic process from there.
00:49:14 ♪ ♪
00:49:17 We're both inspiring each other to be better.
00:49:20 This is the white Sonora here.
00:49:22 - This is amazing. Have you looked at it close?
00:49:25 - Yeah, I have. - It's hilarious.
00:49:27 - Is it really? - Amazing.
00:49:29 - Greg's interested in lots of ancient grains
00:49:33 that he could have spelt to different oats,
00:49:37 different heirloom wheats,
00:49:39 many, many different kinds of ingredients
00:49:41 that he could utilize.
00:49:43 - I like this story about the einkorn as well.
00:49:45 - It took a lot of searching to find it.
00:49:47 - I'm glad that you did, though.
00:49:49 I think it's important for us as bakers,
00:49:51 it's important for us as a community.
00:49:53 Like, you know, I just want this around.
00:49:55 - This year, we're growing an ancient, ancient variety
00:49:59 of wheat called einkorn.
00:50:01 It goes back 10,000-some years.
00:50:04 You know, if this is something that really has benefit
00:50:07 to a lot of folks... - It does.
00:50:09 I mean, like, I was able to make a really tasty bread out of it,
00:50:12 like, awesome texture, awesome flavor,
00:50:14 and have it still be fully glutinous,
00:50:16 and we fed it to gluten-intolerant people,
00:50:18 and they were completely fine.
00:50:20 - If einkorn is able to be used by folks
00:50:23 who have these gluten sensitivities,
00:50:25 Greg can turn that einkorn into an amazing bread,
00:50:30 and all of a sudden, we've opened up a whole new world
00:50:33 of local, nutrient-dense, ancient grain flavors
00:50:38 to folks who are missing that.
00:50:41 This is exciting stuff. - I'm so stoked.
00:50:44 (laughter)
00:50:46 - If we really want to change the food system,
00:50:48 talking about vegetables and fruits
00:50:51 is not gonna cut it.
00:50:53 It's important.
00:50:55 But fruits and vegetables represent about 6%
00:50:57 of our agriculture.
00:50:59 Our land use.
00:51:01 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:51:06 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:51:08 The Western world was built on wheat.
00:51:11 Just as South America was built on corn,
00:51:13 and Asian countries, for the most part,
00:51:15 were built on rice.
00:51:17 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:51:19 But of the 60 million acres of wheat,
00:51:22 we grow very few varieties.
00:51:26 It is completely unprocessed.
00:51:29 It is completely flavorless,
00:51:31 and completely nutritionless.
00:51:33 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:51:35 Changing the food system means
00:51:37 changing the way we think about wheat.
00:51:40 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:51:42 - Modern wheat is bred
00:51:44 to have identical traits in each plant.
00:51:48 And that enables a farmer
00:51:51 who is growing hundreds of thousands of acres
00:51:55 on a mega farm, control exactly when to harvest,
00:51:59 when to irrigate,
00:52:01 and exactly the amount of chemicals to apply.
00:52:04 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:52:06 But imagine you're a robber,
00:52:08 and you have a key.
00:52:10 You can get maybe into one house,
00:52:12 but you can't get into the next house,
00:52:14 and you can't get into the next house.
00:52:16 Imagine you're a pathogen,
00:52:18 and all the house locks are uniform.
00:52:22 You can get into one, you can get into all of them.
00:52:25 That is the danger of uniformity.
00:52:28 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:52:32 - Despite the vast biodiversity
00:52:35 of land-raised wheat
00:52:37 that has evolved for millennia and millennia,
00:52:40 who of us today has heard of all these land-raised wheats?
00:52:43 Who of us knows what a land-raised is?
00:52:46 So take the cotton out off our eyes.
00:52:50 We have to realize we've been sold to crock,
00:52:52 and we don't have to buy in
00:52:54 to a globalized industrial food system.
00:52:57 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:53:00 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:53:08 A land-raise is a population
00:53:12 of genetic diversity.
00:53:14 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:53:22 Year by year, generation by generation,
00:53:24 farmers selected and saved the seeds,
00:53:27 the seeds of the plants that did best in that locality.
00:53:30 But farmers never selected for uniformity.
00:53:34 Every land-raise is a mixture.
00:53:37 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:53:40 You see movement, sun and light and air
00:53:44 is going into the plants that are of varying heights,
00:53:48 and if we could go under the ground,
00:53:50 we would see all kinds of teeming biological activity.
00:53:53 Earthworms and soil and micro-horizon.
00:53:56 It's a teeming farm ecosystem.
00:53:59 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:54:03 We're standing in the einkorn fields of Klaus Martens,
00:54:06 who is a wise and experienced organic farmer,
00:54:11 and Klaus and I are working together
00:54:13 to restore almost extinct land-raise
00:54:16 and heritage grains and ancient grains.
00:54:20 By visiting various countries,
00:54:22 I was able to collect einkorn
00:54:24 from Bulgaria and the Caucasus and Turkey,
00:54:27 where einkorn is originally from.
00:54:29 And I trialed this diversity of einkorn genotypes
00:54:34 on my farm, selected the best,
00:54:37 and I gave Klaus Martens a handful.
00:54:40 Klaus, pull this plant out.
00:54:42 This is one plant.
00:54:43 Do you want to count the tillers?
00:54:45 We hand-harvested that first little bit,
00:54:48 and we saw an increase of many hundreds to one.
00:54:52 Klaus had 25 seeds times 33.
00:54:55 How much is that?
00:54:56 That'd be 800 seeds.
00:54:58 The next year, we had enough to seed any amount we wanted to.
00:55:01 The increase was manyfold--
00:55:03 seven or 800 to one increase,
00:55:05 which is also a stark contrast to our modern wheats,
00:55:08 where if you get a 20 to one increase, you're doing good.
00:55:11 30 to one is bragging rights.
00:55:13 So modern wheat, typically,
00:55:15 you'd plant 30 seeds per square foot.
00:55:17 Yes.
00:55:18 And einkorn, one.
00:55:19 One or two.
00:55:20 One or two.
00:55:21 Which doesn't work well for the seed seller.
00:55:24 Looks great for the farmer.
00:55:26 Yes, modern wheat's great for the seed company.
00:55:29 Einkorn is the dawn of agriculture.
00:55:36 At the end of the last ice age,
00:55:38 early farmers were discovering this grain.
00:55:41 But I keep finding myself digressing
00:55:43 when I talk about einkorn,
00:55:45 because it's not just the one crop, it's the system.
00:55:48 If we have a modern wheat field,
00:55:50 the farmer believes this field is the system,
00:55:52 but he's not thinking.
00:55:53 It includes land in North Africa where the phosphorus was mined,
00:55:56 parts of Canada where the potassium was mined,
00:55:58 and all the fuel that moved all of it.
00:56:00 That's right.
00:56:01 Every agronomic problem that we face on our farm
00:56:04 has a "solution" that comes in a jug,
00:56:07 is poisonous, and costs a lot of money.
00:56:10 I don't call that a solution.
00:56:12 I've also found that every one of those problems
00:56:15 can be dealt with by improving
00:56:17 and increasing the amount of biodiversity.
00:56:20 On a commencé à agriculer cette ferme il y a 20 ans, je crois.
00:56:24 Un agriculteur m'a dit,
00:56:26 "Je vais vous dire quelque chose sur cette ferme.
00:56:28 "Je dois vous le dire, rien ne se crée là-bas,
00:56:30 "rien que les feuilles."
00:56:32 C'était une agriculture exploitée.
00:56:35 Ils étaient très harcs sur la terre.
00:56:39 Si on regarde ce einkorn,
00:56:41 il semble être à la maison dans cette terre en clé.
00:56:48 Donc, c'est de la réparation du problème.
00:56:51 Une de mes observations sur la ferme est que,
00:56:54 quand on a une espèce qui est dominante,
00:56:57 c'est généralement celle qui est la meilleure pour les conditions.
00:57:01 Quand on a une feuille qui prend le terrain,
00:57:04 c'est souvent la nature qui prend le problème qu'on a créé
00:57:07 et qui essaie de le réparer pour nous.
00:57:09 Mais on ne fait pas d'argent et on ne nourrit pas nos alentours
00:57:12 pendant que la nature essaie de réparer nos erreurs.
00:57:16 On est à la croix.
00:57:18 Je pense qu'il faut revenir à ce que les agriculteurs ont fait.
00:57:22 Si rien n'était, ils ont utilisé les croyances
00:57:25 pour les bénéfices qu'ils avaient pour la terre.
00:57:28 Ils font partie de ce qui fait fonctionner l'agriculture.
00:57:31 Ils font partie de ce qui les garde en santé et bien nourris.
00:57:35 Mais on a séparé l'agriculture de l'agro-culture.
00:57:39 On a vraiment besoin de réintégrer ça.
00:57:45 (vrombissement du vent)
00:57:49 - Le potentiel excitant pour combiner
00:57:56 le goût riche et la santé des grains de la terre
00:58:00 avec le mouvement des artistes et du pain est inévitable.
00:58:04 On a une vraie opportunité
00:58:06 de changer notre système alimentaire,
00:58:09 notre système de pain, de ce monstre industrialisé.
00:58:13 - Elle va terminer ça.
00:58:15 Je veux des fruits et des noix de fine forme.
00:58:18 Puis elle et moi, on va faire des sourds.
00:58:21 On service à peu près 30 restaurants.
00:58:24 On fait environ 2 000 pounds de pâtes sourdes par semaine.
00:58:28 Environ 600 pounds de grains de pain.
00:58:31 Pour un petit artiste et une bâtisserie comme celle-ci,
00:58:34 c'est un peu beaucoup.
00:58:36 - Comment les produits principaux de tant de cultures
00:58:39 et de religions ont-ils sustitué la vie
00:58:42 pour des milliers d'années?
00:58:44 Et maintenant, tout d'un coup, en 2015,
00:58:47 c'est... pas... tu sais.
00:58:50 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:58:53 Regardez la liste des ingrédients
00:58:55 sur une pâte de pain
00:58:57 qui est packée dans le magasin.
00:58:59 Il y a 50 ingrédients dedans,
00:59:01 et la moitié, tu ne peux pas le prononcer,
00:59:03 et l'autre moitié est probablement poisonée.
00:59:05 Tu sais, maintenant, regardez ma pâte
00:59:08 avec ses cinq ingrédients.
00:59:10 ♪ ♪ ♪
00:59:12 - On est dans ce moment-là, dans ce grand spectacle de tout ce qui se passe dans le monde culinaire.
00:59:17 Les chefs sont à la taille d'une pierre à ce jour-là.
00:59:20 - Seulement parce que ce grain ne s'est pas dégusté.
00:59:23 - Mais on ne pourrait pas le faire sans le chef.
00:59:26 Le meilleur que je peux faire comme cuisinier est de prendre des grains de Marty bien faits
00:59:31 et de ne pas les enléver.
00:59:34 - J'ai deux frappes ici.
00:59:36 Cette, c'est du chef.
00:59:38 Vous pouvez voir tous les bubbles sur le dessus.
00:59:40 C'est très flou.
00:59:42 Et la frappe de la commodité est vraiment sans vie et carré et sale.
00:59:47 - Beaucoup de pain conventionnel est fait de pâte à pâte en environ 4 heures.
00:59:52 Nos pains sourds et nos pains prennent environ 60 heures.
00:59:58 - Faites attention à votre tête quand vous allez ici.
01:00:00 - Nous commençons les soakers et les pré-ferments en un jour.
01:00:04 - C'est notre soaker pour les pains sourds.
01:00:06 Ça va commencer à fermer naturellement.
01:00:08 - La préparation dans le bâtiment commence ici.
01:00:11 - Nous entrons le jour suivant et nous les incorporons dans une pâte,
01:00:15 souvent avec du pâte à pâte sourde pour le leavening.
01:00:18 Nous les fermons en masse pendant environ 4 heures avant de les former.
01:00:23 Et cela se ferme au couvercle dans le réfrigérateur.
01:00:25 - Donc, nous avons notre pâte à pâte sourde, des grains de multi, de l'olive ici.
01:00:30 C'est en utilisant le glen wheat de Marty.
01:00:33 - Tout est cuisson et ensuite refroidi et envoyé le matin.
01:00:37 - C'est comme chanter quand vous entendez le pain crackeler en refroidissement.
01:00:42 C'est l'un des sons les plus réconfortants que j'ai pu apprécier.
01:00:47 - Quand la fermentation naturelle se fait, il n'y a pas besoin de faire autre chose.
01:00:54 Il suffit simplement de laisser la nature vivre.
01:00:57 Les micro-organismes digèrent le pain à travers la fermentation
01:01:06 et font des nutrientes biologiques disponibles à l'être humain.
01:01:11 - Ce sont des glenberries. Nous les tostons et les mettons au pain.
01:01:14 Nous les sépareons et les râpons. Nous faisons des barres de puissance, ce genre de choses.
01:01:18 - Les grains ont un antinutrient naturel.
01:01:22 Et si vous faites de la pâte à pâte sourde et ne le fermez pas,
01:01:28 vous obtenez cet antinutrient dans votre système,
01:01:31 qui prévient l'absorption des nutrients dans la pâte.
01:01:35 ♪ Piano ♪
01:01:40 - Greg est probablement l'un des plus incroyables cuisineurs que j'ai rencontré.
01:01:47 Greg est aussi l'un des cuisineurs les plus passionnants que j'ai rencontré.
01:01:56 - J'étais avec mon père l'autre jour et il m'avait posé toutes ces images
01:02:02 quand j'avais cinq ans, de la pâte à pâte.
01:02:05 Je devais l'avoir réalisé, mais ça fait un moment, je pense.
01:02:10 ♪ Piano ♪
01:02:19 J'aime tout ce qui est fait de la pâte à pâte.
01:02:22 J'aime le goût du pâté, j'aime le goût des grains.
01:02:30 Si vous êtes à l'abri, c'est une expérience incroyablement récente.
01:02:35 Vous pouvez le sentir et l'entendre cracler dans le four.
01:02:42 Vous vous sentez juste bien.
01:02:45 Ce que nous vivons, c'est un pâté renaissance.
01:02:58 Nous réalisons juste combien nous avons fait de mal
01:03:01 en tant que consommateurs, agriculteurs et chefs.
01:03:04 Et maintenant, nous y retournons.
01:03:10 - C'est l'automne 16.
01:03:20 C'est le moment pour nous de planter des plantes.
01:03:23 Nous avons eu un nouveau chien en juillet.
01:03:27 Et quelques jours plus tard, nous avons eu une couche de chiens,
01:03:31 des chiens guinea-poules, qui ont tous l'air bons.
01:03:34 Les choses se passent bien pour les animaux aussi.
01:03:37 Au début, notre expérience de farme
01:03:42 n'a jamais vraiment inclus le pied de la pâte à pâte.
01:03:46 C'est un peu comme si on avait un pédaleur.
01:03:49 Mais à la base, nous avons voulu créer une nouvelle famille.
01:03:54 Nous avons réalisé que nous voulions avoir
01:03:56 un type de composant de pâtes à pâte.
01:03:59 Le chien guinea-poule américain était, au milieu des années 1800,
01:04:03 l'un des chiens de la maison les plus communs
01:04:05 au sud-ouest américain.
01:04:07 Il s'est vraiment sorti de la terre.
01:04:10 Nous avons commencé à industrialiser la production de poivre.
01:04:14 En 2007, il n'y avait plus de 200 chiens guinea-poules
01:04:18 enregistrés au monde.
01:04:20 À ce moment-là, ils étaient plus rares que les chiens de panda.
01:04:23 Nous avons commencé avec un chien de 7 mois,
01:04:26 qui s'appelle Sam.
01:04:28 Il est un peu le chien de la famille.
01:04:30 Il a un nom de famille, et il est un peu le chien de la famille.
01:04:34 Il est un peu le chien de la famille.
01:04:36 Il est un peu le chien de la famille.
01:04:39 Il est un peu le grand-père de tous nos chiens.
01:04:43 Aujourd'hui, nous avons environ 50 chiens.
01:04:47 Nous avons mis nos chiens, deux chiens par sac,
01:04:50 et chaque sac est de 6 pieds par 10 pieds,
01:04:53 et nous les avons déplacés deux fois par jour.
01:04:55 Nous les restons à ce niveau
01:04:57 parce qu'ils vont trop manger et devenir trop faibles.
01:05:00 Comme un humain, si tu manges trop, tu deviens faible,
01:05:03 et tu n'es pas en bonne santé.
01:05:05 Nos chiens sont sur une pêche de l'alfalfa.
01:05:08 Nous n'avons pas d'endroit confiné de manures,
01:05:11 donc nous pouvons fertiliser certains de nos champs
01:05:14 qui auront des grains petits dans les années à venir.
01:05:19 Pendant l'hiver, nos chiens sont dehors dans leurs ponds,
01:05:24 et nous les assommons profondément avec des chaises
01:05:26 et nous leur nourrissons de la vache.
01:05:28 Leur tempérament a changé tellement après avoir les chiens
01:05:31 qui ont des grains plutôt que des chaises.
01:05:33 Ils se calment beaucoup plus bas.
01:05:35 Lors de l'hiver, quand ils sont prêts à sortir de la pêche,
01:05:38 nous prenons ce chais et ce sac de vache
01:05:40 et créons notre propre compost.
01:05:42 Nous pouvons donc utiliser beaucoup de ce que ce chien produit.
01:05:47 Ce n'est pas à propos de devenir
01:05:51 le plus grand producteur de chiens guinea-fowl
01:05:53 aux Etats-Unis ou au Moyen-Orient.
01:05:56 C'est à propos de produire le meilleur poivre guinea-fowl possible
01:06:01 et de donner à ces chiens le meilleur niveau de vie possible.
01:06:07 Je pense que beaucoup de gens croient que leurs oeufs,
01:06:15 leur viande et leurs produits de lait
01:06:17 viennent de la famille traditionnelle.
01:06:20 Nous le considérons comme la base américaine
01:06:23 et nous assumons que c'est là que notre nourriture vient,
01:06:25 ce qui est bien sûr très différente de la réalité.
01:06:28 Ces opérations de nourriture de chiens confinés à large échelle,
01:06:37 ou CAPOs, sont l'épitome de l'agriculture industrielle.
01:06:41 Il y aura des milliers, ou dans le cas des chiens guinea-fowls,
01:06:47 même plus de 1 million d'animaux dans un bâtiment.
01:06:52 Parce qu'ils sont si en colère,
01:06:54 ils nourrissent en continu des formes de médicaments,
01:06:57 souvent des antibiotiques.
01:06:59 Un grand nombre des livres, du poivre et du poivre,
01:07:02 ont des cystes, ils sont élargis.
01:07:05 Et la raison pour laquelle ils sont malades,
01:07:07 c'est qu'ils nourrissent dans ces rations de haute intensité et de haute énergie.
01:07:11 Donc, ces animaux que nous mangeons,
01:07:13 ne sont pas des animaux santés,
01:07:15 mais des animaux profitables.
01:07:19 On les ramène souvent de très longues distances,
01:07:22 et on a un énorme flux de déchets qui sort de l'autre côté.
01:07:27 Ça se trouve dans la réserve d'eau.
01:07:29 Un chien de déchets produira
01:07:31 autant de déchets biologiques,
01:07:33 autant de déchets rares, que 20 personnes.
01:07:36 Donc, si vous avez une opération de déchets de 1 000 chiens,
01:07:39 vous avez l'équivalent d'une ville de 20 000 personnes.
01:07:43 Vous ne prenez pas le déchets rares de 20 000 personnes
01:07:47 et vous le mettez dans les rues de la ville, dans les champs.
01:07:51 C'est ce que nous faisons avec les déchets
01:07:53 de ces opérations de chien, de la cattale, etc.
01:07:57 Toutes les régulations que nous avons sur ces KFO
01:08:05 ou sur les autres opérations de farmation industrielle
01:08:07 sont acceptées par ce que j'appelle l'établissement agricole.
01:08:12 Les régulations leur donnent la permission légale
01:08:15 de faire des choses que nous savons polluer
01:08:18 l'environnement naturel et menacent la santé publique.
01:08:21 C'est quelque chose qui doit vraiment changer.
01:08:24 Il y a beaucoup de connaissances
01:08:32 qui ont été données au cours des générations
01:08:34 qui ont été sorties autour de 1950
01:08:37 sur l'apprentissage du fait de la façon dont la nature fonctionne.
01:08:42 Les plantes et les animaux travaillent ensemble.
01:08:45 La diversité est en cours.
01:08:48 Rien n'est en eau, tout est recyclé.
01:08:52 Les choses doivent être restaurées de manière continuelle.
01:08:57 Et si vous n'avez pas ce sentiment,
01:09:01 vous ne serez pas partie d'un système alimentaire sustainable.
01:09:05 Quand j'étais la secrétaire d'attaché pour Waterkeeper Alliance,
01:09:11 je travaillais pour Bobby Kennedy Junior.
01:09:13 Nous souhaitions et critiquions la production de nourriture industrielle,
01:09:17 mais on a senti qu'il fallait prendre des exemples
01:09:20 de la bonne façon de faire les choses.
01:09:22 Et on a appris que le réseau Niman Ranch
01:09:25 était un bon modèle pour les agriculteurs et pour l'animal,
01:09:29 et que ça produisait de la bonne qualité de nourriture.
01:09:32 Et finalement, j'ai rencontré Bill Niman,
01:09:35 qui est le fondateur de Niman Ranch.
01:09:38 - Come cattle!
01:09:41 Come cattle!
01:09:45 - C'était un héros pour moi,
01:09:48 parce qu'il faisait quelque chose de très différent
01:09:51 de la production de poisson de la main.
01:09:53 - Allez, les filles, venez au poulet!
01:09:55 - J'ai arrivé dans cette communauté en 60 ans.
01:10:00 Il y avait des gens qui voulaient sortir de la grotte.
01:10:04 On voulait nourrir notre propre nourriture
01:10:07 et faire tout ce qu'on pouvait sans se relier au système,
01:10:10 de quoi on n'avait pas beaucoup de confiance.
01:10:13 - Quand je l'ai connu, je suis tombée amoureuse de lui
01:10:20 et j'ai accepté son propos de mariage.
01:10:23 Pour un végétarien et un avocat environnemental,
01:10:26 marier un produceur de poisson et un rancheur,
01:10:29 ça dit beaucoup, non?
01:10:31 - C'est l'un des descendants de notre 1re poisson.
01:10:34 Nicolas Corset l'a décrit comme une des grandes-grandes-filles.
01:10:38 - Je me souviens bien du 1er animal qu'on a tué
01:10:42 et l'effet qu'il a eu sur moi.
01:10:44 Ça m'a inspiré à nourrir les gens
01:10:47 et j'ai appliqué mon énergie entrepreneurelle
01:10:50 pour faire grandir ce business,
01:10:52 nourrir plus de gens, un animal à la fois.
01:10:55 Et après plusieurs années,
01:10:57 ça est devenu un ranch à la fois.
01:11:01 - Il y a beaucoup de choses qui distinguent
01:11:04 le poisson de la poisson de la maîtrise.
01:11:07 Et plus les gens apprennent
01:11:09 de la manière dont la poisson est nourrie,
01:11:12 plus ils sont satisfaits.
01:11:14 Une des choses que nous avons discutées depuis longtemps
01:11:21 était de nourrir le poisson entièrement sur la terre.
01:11:25 Et nous avons expérimenté avec ça
01:11:28 pendant plusieurs années avant qu'il ne parte de Diamond Ranch.
01:11:31 C'était l'origine de B& Ranch,
01:11:34 la compagnie que nous avons maintenant.
01:11:36 - Notre mission maintenant est de prouver
01:11:38 que la poisson nourrie sur la terre
01:11:40 peut être aussi bonne que la poisson finie.
01:11:42 Et c'est beaucoup mieux pour l'environnement,
01:11:45 pour les animaux et pour ceux qui la mangent.
01:11:48 - C'est du riz,
01:11:50 un riz carbohydrate de haute énergie
01:11:53 que les poissons vont nourrir
01:11:56 en se marquant et en cliquant sur ces semelles
01:11:59 de la même manière qu'ils mangeraient
01:12:02 un riz de haute énergie dans un feedlot.
01:12:04 Donc quand vous mangez du riz à la terre,
01:12:06 vous voulez le manger
01:12:08 quand ils ont eu une exposure pendant plusieurs semaines
01:12:11 à cette terre de haute énergie,
01:12:13 comme un oiseau qui grince sur un poisson
01:12:15 juste avant qu'il ne parte en hibernation.
01:12:23 - Juste en termes de la quantité de terre
01:12:26 qui existe sur la Terre,
01:12:28 entre 30 et 40 % sont des terres de graisse.
01:12:30 Si nous pensons au système alimentaire du monde,
01:12:36 les poissons jouent un rôle incroyablement important
01:12:39 parce qu'ils utilisent ces 30 à 40 %
01:12:41 et que dans les Etats-Unis, environ 85 % ne sont pas des terres
01:12:44 qui peuvent être utilisées pour la production de croûtes.
01:12:46 - Même pour ces gens qui ne choisissent pas de manger de la viande,
01:12:51 il est très important de maintenir ce paysage.
01:12:53 Et par ailleurs, si vous voulez séquestrer du carbone,
01:12:56 c'est la meilleure façon de le faire.
01:12:58 - Quand vous avez une bonne graisse,
01:13:04 ça stimule la croûte végétale
01:13:06 et la garde la moitié de la terre.
01:13:08 Mais aussi parce que les coudes
01:13:12 ramassent de la matière organique dans la terre,
01:13:15 ce qui fait plus de carbone
01:13:17 qui va dans la terre et qui reste dans la terre.
01:13:19 ♪ ♪ ♪
01:13:24 - Ils vivent sur ce matériau cellulose sec
01:13:28 que nous ne pouvons pas manger et survivre.
01:13:31 Ces animaux peuvent transformer ça
01:13:34 en une nourriture vraiment complète pour la consommation humaine.
01:13:38 - Le type de pêche dont Bill a été impliqué depuis longtemps
01:13:43 a souvent été caractérisé comme une nourriture niche.
01:13:46 Ni Bill ni moi sommes vraiment intéressés
01:13:49 de faire partie d'une niche.
01:13:51 Nous voulons changer la façon dont la nourriture
01:13:54 est produite au Royaume-Uni aujourd'hui.
01:13:56 Nous voulons changer la façon dont les gens mangent
01:13:59 au Royaume-Uni aujourd'hui.
01:14:01 ♪ ♪ ♪
01:14:04 - J'espère vraiment que ce que nous faisons aujourd'hui,
01:14:10 tout le monde va le faire.
01:14:12 Je ne me soucie pas si on est mis hors de business.
01:14:14 Je vais célébrer que d'autres gens font ce que nous faisons
01:14:18 et parlent de cela de la même manière que nous le faisons.
01:14:21 ♪ ♪ ♪
01:14:26 - Il faut l'aimer.
01:14:28 Et si vous l'aimez, il n'y a pas de meilleure vie,
01:14:32 je pense, pour nous ou pour nos enfants.
01:14:35 Nous regardons les opportunités qu'ils ont tous les jours.
01:14:38 C'est une façon merveilleuse pour les enfants de se lever.
01:14:41 ♪ ♪ ♪
01:14:45 ♪ ♪ ♪
01:14:51 ♪ ♪ ♪
01:14:56 ♪ ♪ ♪
01:15:01 ♪ ♪ ♪
01:15:06 ♪ ♪ ♪
01:15:11 ♪ ♪ ♪
01:15:16 ♪ ♪ ♪
01:15:21 - "Mouvant dans la saison d'été" est un peu comme...
01:15:26 "Il vaut mieux se dépêcher et faire ceci,
01:15:29 car la fin est proche."
01:15:33 Une fois que le sol s'écoule, c'est la fin du jeu.
01:15:37 ♪ ♪ ♪
01:15:41 C'est aussi une période d'abondance.
01:15:44 Quand on pense au Thanksgiving,
01:15:49 on pense à cette énorme table qui se déplace
01:15:51 avec cette abondance de produits et de graines et de végétales.
01:15:56 Et parfois...
01:15:59 le temps va changer.
01:16:02 Et...
01:16:04 il faut quitter et s'en aller,
01:16:07 car c'est aussi loin que ce que tu peux.
01:16:10 Il y a beaucoup à faire attention.
01:16:16 Certaines choses, c'est de la chance.
01:16:20 D'autres, c'est de la compétence.
01:16:23 Et certaines choses, c'est juste...
01:16:26 peut-être que c'est grâce à Dieu que tu y arrives.
01:16:30 Mais c'est... c'est tout un fait de l'expérience.
01:16:38 (bois de machine à tour)
01:16:41 - Donc ce matin, comme sur de nombreuses petites fermes,
01:16:47 tu deviens non seulement un agriculteur, mais aussi un mécanicien.
01:16:50 C'est une bonne chose de avoir Will pour être notre mécanicien dédié.
01:16:54 (bois de machine à tour)
01:16:57 (crissement de pneus)
01:16:59 - Je suis très fier de notre fils Will.
01:17:05 Probablement la plus grande joie que j'ai
01:17:08 est de savoir que je passe le plus de temps avec lui.
01:17:12 On travaille ensemble, côté par côté,
01:17:15 on rêve ensemble,
01:17:17 on lutte ensemble sur de nombreuses choses.
01:17:22 Je suis très fier de lui et de ce qu'il est devenu.
01:17:27 - Je pensais quand j'étais petit que je serais un agriculteur,
01:17:33 parce que c'est ce que m'a fait papa.
01:17:36 Tout ce que papa faisait, c'est ce que je voulais faire.
01:17:43 Quand on a pu passer du temps ensemble,
01:17:50 on a toujours fait des choses
01:17:53 dont il était vraiment passionné.
01:17:56 Et juste de pouvoir passer du temps en faisant ce qu'il aimait
01:17:59 a toujours l'air d'être un bon moyen de passer notre vie.
01:18:03 - Il est important d'être capable
01:18:16 d'arriver à un certain point dans votre vie
01:18:19 et de savoir que ce que vous avez fait n'est pas seulement pour vous.
01:18:24 Et que vous pouvez passer la sienne.
01:18:30 Et que ces siennes peuvent être plantées
01:18:34 pour de nombreuses générations.
01:18:37 J'espère que ça va durer un très, très long temps.
01:18:43 - Donc si on peut ralentir ça...
01:18:48 On peut avoir un plus fort cadre
01:18:51 et on peut avoir une plante plus résiliente.
01:18:54 - Aujourd'hui, on a Gary Redding de l'Agence Écologie et Agriculture.
01:18:58 Il est allé sur la plante plusieurs fois cette année.
01:19:01 - Ça vous dit le potentiel génétique de cette variété.
01:19:04 Donc, vous voulez le rappeler.
01:19:07 - Sur la plante ici, nous essayons constamment
01:19:10 d'améliorer les conditions de nos sols,
01:19:13 en faisant en sorte que nous ayons un avenir sustainable.
01:19:17 - Vous avez une grande variété de plantes en santé ici,
01:19:20 mais vous en avez une qui est presque défoliée.
01:19:23 Et vous devez vous demander, pourquoi moi?
01:19:26 (rires)
01:19:28 - L'un des problèmes les plus grands que nous affrontons
01:19:31 comme agriculteurs aujourd'hui, c'est la pression insecte et maladie.
01:19:34 Et l'un de nos plus grands peurs, c'est de perdre notre crop
01:19:37 à ces pestes.
01:19:39 - Dans cette particularité, cet insecte savait
01:19:42 que c'était un compromis à cause d'une différence signifiante
01:19:45 dans sa zone de croûte ou autre chose,
01:19:48 mais il est venu et a pris cette plante
01:19:51 et n'a même pas touché une feuille sur la suivante.
01:19:54 - Beaucoup de gens ne regardent pas les plantes
01:19:57 comme étant en système immunitaire, mais elles ne sont pas
01:20:00 différentes de nous, les humains. Nous avons un système immunitaire
01:20:03 et quand il est compromis, nous devons être plus susceptibles
01:20:06 à beaucoup de choses. De la même manière, dans une plante,
01:20:09 si elle n'a pas un plan nutritionnel bien balancé,
01:20:12 la croûte est un problème. Et si nous pouvons comprendre
01:20:15 la picture entière, nous aurons des choses
01:20:18 incroyables pour que les gens puissent manger.
01:20:21 - C'est bien.
01:20:24 Il a un peu plus de goût, n'est-ce pas?
01:20:27 J'ai travaillé pour John Kemp, qui est le fondateur
01:20:30 de Advancing Eco Agriculture à Middlefield, en Ohio.
01:20:33 Il vient d'une des communautés les plus grosses
01:20:36 des Amish au Royaume-Uni.
01:20:39 Il est sorti de l'école à l'âge de 8e année,
01:20:42 est entré dans l'industrie de la farmation à l'âge de 13 ans
01:20:45 et a commencé à se demander pourquoi.
01:20:48 ♪ ♪ ♪
01:20:51 ♪ ♪ ♪
01:20:54 ♪ ♪ ♪
01:20:57 ♪ ♪ ♪
01:21:00 ♪ ♪ ♪
01:21:03 - Le défi de nos modèles agricoles actuels
01:21:06 est qu'ils sont basés sur un paradigme de guerre
01:21:09 et de recherche et de détruire.
01:21:12 Identifiez un pathogène spécifique,
01:21:15 identifiez une peste spécifique et décidez
01:21:18 comment vous pouvez la tuer.
01:21:21 Et si la première arme de choix n'est pas réussie,
01:21:24 simplement achetez une bombe plus grande.
01:21:27 ♪ ♪ ♪
01:21:30 Aujourd'hui, il y a beaucoup de discussions
01:21:33 sur la sustainabilité de l'agriculture.
01:21:37 ♪ ♪ ♪
01:21:40 Nous ne pouvons pas avoir une agriculture sustainable aujourd'hui.
01:21:43 Nos terres sont trop dégradées,
01:21:46 nos plantes sont trop malades.
01:21:49 Nous devons d'abord avoir une conversation
01:21:52 sur une agriculture régénérative.
01:21:55 ♪ ♪ ♪
01:21:57 Un modèle d'agriculture dans lequel les plantes
01:22:00 ont une résilience incroyable
01:22:03 contre les extrêmes climatiques, contre les stress climatiques,
01:22:06 contre tous les types de maladies et de pestes insectes.
01:22:09 Et, en résultat de ces choses,
01:22:12 les fermes deviennent plus économiquement viables.
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