"They say take one accessory off before going out, but I'm more the type to add 10 before going out." 'Emily in Paris' costume designer Marylin Fitoussi invites Glamour inside her Parisian Haussmann workshop to share the creative process behind setting the stage for Emily's evolution into a real Parisienne in Season 4. From gathering 25,000 pieces, viewing at least 600 look books and selecting at least 480 different brands, Marilyn shares the ins and outs of ensuring the threads add to the story.
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00:00I know you always like numbers.
00:02To prepare for this season 4,
00:05you should know that we currently have 25,000 pieces.
00:08I looked at about 600 lookbooks
00:11and we selected 480 brands.
00:14Hi Glamour!
00:15This is Marilyn Fetussi.
00:17I'm the costume designer of Emeline Paris.
00:19I'm delighted to see you again in my wonderful Parisian-Osmanian studio.
00:24I'm going to take you to discover my favorite looks for season 4.
00:28Are you following me?
00:30I'm going to take you to discover my favorite looks for season 4.
00:35It was season 1 and I really wanted this character to be different.
00:39I didn't try to make fashion,
00:41I just tried to create with Lily Collins
00:45a character that is different, eclectic, strong, with character
00:49and that is very, very in contrast with these Parisian homologues.
00:53French fashion, which is a bit boring if you use all the codes of the jean,
00:57of the eternal quest, of the perfect white t-shirt and the navy blazer.
01:01It was really a cultural shock that was very, very fun to do.
01:05Emilie's style is indeed very eclectic.
01:08It was also inspired by French cinema, by the New Wave.
01:12But we were also inspired for the previous season, season 3,
01:16by François Zardy, by the icons of French pop culture.
01:21I also like Carnaby Street and everything that is Swinging London.
01:25We obviously paid tribute to Aubrey Dreadborn
01:28because we love this character and it makes sense with Lily.
01:31So the evolution of Emilie Coupa,
01:34I just watched this delightful young woman evolve.
01:37She is much more feminine, more mature, she wants something else.
01:40And her character and her wardrobe had to evolve with her,
01:44which is always in an eclectic style, very colorful,
01:47but with a lot more subtlety, sensuality.
01:51I really wanted to highlight her much more feminine side
01:56and much more comfortable and integrated in French culture.
02:00And I hope she also gives a lesson in style
02:04and that the lips almost exceed the meter.
02:06So, indeed, she was inspired by Sylvie.
02:11And Sylvie, what is it? It's the French chic.
02:14Camille, she is sharp and avant-garde.
02:17And Mindy, indeed, it's a sexy, joyful, very colorful character
02:22that is irreverent and outrageous.
02:25This year, we added touches from Westwood.
02:27I was lucky to be able to collaborate with Tom Brown
02:30and always and endlessly promote young Parisian and international designers.
02:36And I think this year it will surprise you.
02:38I don't choose a brand because it's iconic,
02:42because it brings money back to its creators.
02:45I choose a brand or the brand chooses me, perhaps,
02:47because it helps me tell a story, to tell a character.
02:51I don't say to myself,
02:53I'm going to do a total Westwood look today
02:56or I'm going to put Alaïa pieces on.
02:59I look at lookbooks, it inspires me.
03:01I know what I have in mind.
03:03I know the story I want to tell.
03:08I really wanted to take a maximum risk with yellow,
03:12which is a color that is indeed not easy to wear,
03:15that the French hate or have a lot of trouble with.
03:20So it was really a head-to-toe in yellow, a color block,
03:24which is a mixture of young creators,
03:26small brands and more established brands.
03:30Two young creators called Poisserie,
03:33who mainly work with leather, real leather, non-leather.
03:37So this piece, which I find quite surprising
03:39because it has a masculine, feminine side,
03:42which is counterbalanced by the delicacy of this T-shirt,
03:47which is signed Marlene Gerger, which I like a lot.
03:50Cotton veil, it's always very sensual.
03:53There's this little bag, a little minodière that I like a lot,
03:56which is part of a total look in yellow.
03:58I found that this French sensual side,
04:01it's a bag by Sylvia Cherassy with an Isabelle Marant skirt,
04:05because Isabelle Marant is a classic, a Parisian classic.
04:08It's an icon of Parisian fashion,
04:10so I had to have an Isabelle Marant skirt.
04:13And the Marni socks,
04:15because it's part of my favorite collection.
04:17I bought the dress, I got it from Italy,
04:21a graphic collection by Marni that was in black and white.
04:24So that was it.
04:25And the shoes, the Sergio Rossi shoes.
04:28Sandals, yes, sandals with socks,
04:30because we are on Emeline Paris.
04:35The second outfit that I like a lot,
04:37it's a silhouette with which we were not used to seeing Emily Cooper.
04:41It's a total look Missoni.
04:43I rarely or never do a total look.
04:47Like a kind of second skin, very sensual.
04:50It is all in subtlety, in veil and in unveil.
04:54All this with this little thing, a little outrageous.
04:58For me, a successful costume includes exaggerated proportions,
05:02either in finesse, because it's very close to the body.
05:05And if we counterbalance it with a slightly oversized piece,
05:08there is immediately a seam side,
05:10a side that is what we call a statement.
05:13So I really like this.
05:15It also had a very sensual movement.
05:17I tried so much with the fringes,
05:19I wanted to say, but there was still this animal side
05:22that went to get its prey with Gabrielle
05:24and it was quite funny to do.
05:26And indeed, I think she managed to catch that little one.
05:30So indeed, to counterbalance this kind of rigor,
05:34monochromatic rigor, which I have never accustomed you to.
05:38You always have to break the codes a little bit.
05:39And how to break the codes when everything is almost perfect?
05:42It's with a red shoe, which is a bit of a signature too.
05:46We had used it on the season,
05:48so a small boot, very pointy,
05:51a long ankle boot from Caroline Herrera.
05:54And what we also always like is the little bag,
05:57small deadboots, small miniatures.
06:00The next dress is the Balmain collection, summer 2024.
06:09I battled it, I tore it from the truck,
06:12I tore it from the showroom.
06:14I sent an immeasurable and innumerable number of emails.
06:18Olivier Rousteing, sorry,
06:20but this collection was so sublime.
06:22Without this Balmain piece,
06:24which is for me the very essence of what Emily is in season 4.
06:28It's bold, it's graphic, it's very assertive.
06:31It's a statement piece that I love.
06:34The collection has been stolen, as you know,
06:36in its entirety and in part.
06:38Balmain has managed to make the bolero a record time,
06:41so that we can really have the complete silhouette,
06:45which is for me the most unexpected silhouette
06:47and the strongest of season 4.
06:50We added, on this outfit,
06:52you can see the little bag, GCDS,
06:54which I like, which is an Italian brand,
06:57which I like on its irreverent side.
07:01And especially, indeed, for this wet look,
07:04that the hair and make-up
07:06is the most unexpected, revolutionary and bold possible.
07:11To also dare to put iridescent green on her eyelids.
07:16But it's an outfit in which I think
07:19the whole team has been subjugated, surprised, seduced.
07:24I think it's a look that amazes them.
07:26We also discovered this new sensuality,
07:29this much more feminine and much more assertive side,
07:32which is a bit the DNA of season 4.
07:38It's a piece by a Vietnamese designer
07:41called Doman Cuong,
07:43that I met, that I found on Instagram,
07:47and Messages Interposés,
07:48who sent me five wonderful pieces,
07:51which are for me the most beautiful pieces of season 4.
07:55Pieces that provoked an intense emotion,
07:58that helped me tell the story that I wanted to tell.
08:01And always with this flowery side,
08:03because for me, indeed, Emily, season 4,
08:06it's blossoming,
08:07we're uncovering a new Emily.
08:09This silhouette, which is very inspired by Kiera's Parisian style,
08:13is my interpretation,
08:15which I really like with this ad,
08:17this reissue of a Sonya Riquel's ad,
08:20and the play of irregular lines,
08:22which makes it extremely flattering.
08:25So, indeed, when you have a skirt with feathers made of paper,
08:31when you have as many big flowers as that on a small skirt,
08:35and you have to close and put on a cape,
08:37which is an antique, a brand that I liked a lot,
08:40and that I still like a lot, since the 80s.
08:43Indeed, you can see that once you close the cape,
08:46you get the impression of having a kind of Barbapapa, Barbie-Dewey.
08:51So, we unsewn the sleeves
08:55to be able to close the cape
08:57and to be able to recover and remove volume on the cape
09:01and on the silhouette once the jacket is closed.
09:04Also, the detail of the bag, which is from the unknown young brand,
09:07and it's 3D printing.
09:09This one was made with grape skin.
09:14So, here it is, it's a piece, it was its prototype,
09:17the number one, that we managed to use.
09:21It was released just a few hours before,
09:23because I wanted a young brand
09:24and I wanted a young designer to complete this outfit.
09:30I love debates,
09:31but fortunately, this series left no one indifferent.
09:36If there had been no debate, people who liked, people who hated,
09:39people who love to hate the series,
09:42it would mean that my work was insignificant, not enough,
09:47that I was consensual.
09:48And that's really the word that would hurt me the most,
09:51it's being consensual, doing cute or cute things.
09:55I'm not here to do cute or cute things,
09:57I'm here to make a concept.
09:59What all this conveys on the codes, breaking the codes,
10:02who, at the base, edits these codes of what needs to be put on or not,
10:07of what is in or out.
10:08I'm the maximalist school, you all know that.
10:11I'm more of the Diana Brickland school,
10:13rather than the Coco Chanel school,
10:15where she said, before going out, take off an accessory.
10:18And I say, before going out, add 10 accessories.
10:21To have the perfect closet of Emeline,
10:24so don't listen to any rules.
10:27I think that's the best advice I can give you.
10:30And if ever, if ever you really want to have elements,
10:35pieces that look like Emeline Paris,
10:37invest in a very nice coat,
10:40a coat that makes you feel good.
10:41Because the coat, you don't need to put anything underneath.
10:44It can be something very simple,
10:48but a good coat is the first image we're going to have of you,
10:51and it's going to be the last one when you go back.
10:54Make your own rules, be your own fashion designer.
10:57If you feel beautiful, strong, ready to conquer the world,
11:02if you like glitter at 10 o'clock in the morning,
11:04if you like fuchsia pink,
11:06the pink candy, like me, the feather and the glitter,
11:08dare, dare everything.