In the footsteps of the Khans: A journey through Azerbaijan’s exclave Nakhchivan
What is there to do in the world’s largest landlocked exclave? We discover the history, famous hospitality and a magnificent mountain fortress in the remote region of Nakhchivan.
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00:00Did you know Azerbaijan is home to the world's largest landlocked exclave?
00:07Nakhchivan is an autonomous Azerbaijani republic, with magnificent landscapes defined by the Zenghazar Mountains.
00:14Nakhchivan's geographic isolation over time means it's developed a unique culture,
00:19and it's also home to one of Azerbaijan's most impressive sites, Alinja Castle.
00:23But views like these must be earned, so join me on this journey to discover the culture and history of Nakhchivan.
00:30Nakhchivan
00:36The name of the region comes from its capital. Nakhchivan's city dates back to around 1500 BCE.
00:43According to folklore, Nakhchivan was founded by the prophet Noah, who is also believed to be buried here.
00:48I'm visiting one of the city's most famous historical monuments, the Khan's Palace.
00:54Here is Nakhchivan Khan's Palace. Nakhchivan Khan's Palace is related to 18th century.
01:01To 20th century, the Khans ruled the state from here.
01:06The recently restored residence is richly decorated, with an elaborate design and original artifacts.
01:13This room is a dining room. I want to show this teapot to you.
01:19This is so historical. Yeah, this is a copper, yeah.
01:24So these are the Khans of the Khan's Palace.
01:27Yes, they are Khans, for example, Huseyn Khans, Nakhchivansky.
01:31Fast forward to today, and the singular landscapes of Nakhchivan look very different from the rest of Azerbaijan.
01:37They are best admired on the scenic road to Orduban, the exclave's second largest city.
01:43There's an old world charm that's unique here. Many locals are eager to open their homes and share their culture with travelers.
01:48I've been invited to try a traditional Nakhchivan recipe with Banu and her family.
01:56Banu is an experienced home cook. Today, she's made me a local staple, Arzuman kofta.
02:09Arzuman kofta is one of the most famous dishes from Nakhchivan. Can you tell me more about it?
02:18Arzuman kofta is one of the most famous dishes from Nakhchivan. This dish was originally prepared for the Khans.
02:23When the Khans' guests came, they prepared this dish for them.
02:27And now, when our guests come to our house, this dish is prepared for them at any ceremony or wedding.
02:39The giant meatball was cooked for two hours and is served on a bed of potatoes and chickpeas.
02:45It's like a set of Russian dolls. Ground beef and lamb, stuffed with chicken, stuffed with hard-boiled eggs.
02:52So there's so many layers, it's kind of overwhelming. How do I eat this?
03:06It doesn't get more local than this. Everything is homemade. Banu even made the yogurt and cherry juice.
03:13Thank you so much. Thank you for everything. Bye-bye.
03:19I've got a lot of energy after that hearty meal, which is great news, because I'm ending my trip at Alinja Castle.
03:26There's a bit of a hike, though, so I hope I can manage it.
03:30My trek begins in the shadow of the formidable Mount Elendag. You've got to work for the view.
03:35The only way to access the site of the medieval fortress is by tackling its 1,500 steps.
03:43Imagine trying to invade this place wearing a full set of armor. No wonder they call it the Invincible Castle.
03:51At the top, it's easy to see why Alinja was a valuable outpost.
03:55Warriors stationed here could see enemies arriving 40 kilometers away, in every direction.
04:01The castle was rebuilt from ruins in 2014 to reflect its former structure.
04:06Alinja means invincible. Did the castle stay true to its name?
04:09For centuries, Alinja Castle has been the Invincible Castle.
04:13Even during the attacks of Amir Temur, Amir Temur was able to hold Alinja Castle.
04:18The fact that Alinja Castle has been the Invincible Castle throughout the centuries is one of the most important events in the history of Azerbaijan.
04:27After 14 years of battle, Temerlane did eventually take Alinja in 1401.
04:32But only after soldiers had vacated the stronghold.
04:35The best view is at the very top, which means one last set of stairs.
04:41Nakhchivan has been an unexpected discovery, a place that feels completely detached from the modern world.
04:46I think I'll catch my breath here a bit before heading back down.
04:49It's a great excuse to take in this view one last time.