This guy explained how he built a DIY wooden dog house for his son's pet. After clearing the landscape, he began with concrete and created a solid foundation. Next, he built the side walls, a window, and a door area and painted them. At last, he built and attached a frame for the roof, covered it with roofing sheets, and finished his project.
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“The underlying music rights are not available for license. For use of the video with the track(s) contained therein, please contact the music publisher(s) or relevant rightsholder(s).”
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00:00 Do is start removing the pavers and then start disassembling the kennel which is where our dog used to stay
00:07 And this is where the doghouse is going to go and as you can see I solicited the help of the supervisor
00:14 Because that was the only way that this was going to get done
00:17 Once we got the kennel removed we brought in some fill dirt and just started to level the area
00:23 Where the doghouse was going to go?
00:26 And also compacted the area really good so we wouldn't have any settlement issues once we formed up and poured the slab
00:33 And then once we get this all compacted
00:36 And level then I'm going to take and build a form
00:40 I think I formed it up five foot by six foot and that's going to be the size of our doghouse
00:46 And as you can see here, I went ahead and just formed it up inside the workshop and again
00:52 I'm just using two by fours so once I got it formed and got it out there
00:57 I took and made sure I got it level and then I cut some two by four
01:01 corner post
01:03 To screw to and then I'll take and fasten those at each corner of the form
01:09 just to hold the form in place that way the concrete doesn't push it out, and you can see I also in
01:16 solicited the help of the foreman
01:19 Because in all reality this is his dog that we're doing this for
01:22 So once I get all the corner post
01:25 Nailed in you definitely want to make sure that the corner post do not stick up proud of the form
01:32 You want the corner post to be below the top of the form?
01:36 And then once I got those in place
01:39 Then I'm just going to take some two and a half inch torque screws and go ahead and screw the actual form
01:46 to the post
01:48 Make sure everything is level
01:50 And then all of a sudden the client shows up
01:53 And as you can see she's checking out the work
01:57 Inspecting making sure that everything is being built the way that she wants it
02:04 and then she she's also going to take and
02:07 Try it on for size and make sure that the house is going to be big enough for for her needs
02:13 and I think five by six is plenty of room for her and then she's happy and
02:18 We're good to go with the top of the forms all level
02:22 I'm going to take some two and a half inch torque screws now and just go ahead and screw the the corner post
02:28 Into the form and like I had mentioned earlier
02:31 You just want to make sure that the tops of the form are above the corner post
02:36 Because when at the end once we're done pouring the concrete when we go back to screed the concrete
02:43 You don't want to be hitting you the post you don't want the corner post to be proud of the form
02:48 You want the top of the form to be flush all the way across that way you get a good screed on your concrete
02:55 and
02:56 Next we're going to take we did get a one and a quarter cubic feet mixer
03:01 For this project and I'll leave a link in the video description below
03:06 And we're going to use this to mix up our concrete and I think we were able to mix a bag and a half
03:13 at a time
03:15 Anything more than that and it's just going to bog the mixer down, but it still beats
03:20 Mixing the concrete out of a wheelbarrow, so I highly recommend
03:25 You know if you've got a small job to just get yourself a small
03:29 One and a quarter cubic foot mixer and they sell them bigger as well
03:35 Depending on the size project that you need to do, but this was big enough for our project. I
03:40 Think it took us 25 to 30 bags of concrete to pour this 5 by 6
03:46 slab
03:48 And basically what we did is the supervisor
03:51 You know screeded out the concrete while the foreman and myself just constantly mixed we were in constant mix mode
04:00 and then we just took a 2 by 4 and
04:02 Screeted the concrete flush to the top of the form and then I do have a actual concrete screed
04:09 Which I'll run over the top of the slab just to make sure it's nice and level and slick and all the aggregate is
04:17 Pushed down and you just have a smooth
04:19 Slick surface we decided not to go with a broom finish because this is going to be inside the doghouse
04:26 So we thought it would be nicer for her to be able to lay on a solid
04:31 Smooth surface and the coolness of the concrete is definitely going to be nice for her to be able to lay directly on
04:38 There you have it. The concrete slab is now poured. I'm going to give it probably a day to set up
04:45 Maybe two before I knock off the form boards
04:49 So I went to one of the big-box stores and picked up all the lumber the corrugated metal roofing
04:55 Some furring strips I was going to use for the trim along with some beadboard. I was going to use for the siding
05:02 Just like you would frame a typical house
05:04 I'm going to use a pressure treated
05:07 Bottom plate and then just a single top plate. I know for doing a house
05:12 There would be a double top plate. But again, that's just a doghouse
05:15 But I'm going to lay everything out on 16 inch centers
05:19 That way, you know there it adds some lateral stability to the walls
05:23 I am going to pocket hole the studs and you'll notice that I'm using the blue
05:29 Craig pocket hole screws. These are rated for moisture locations
05:34 So whenever you're fastening anything into a piece of pressure treated wood
05:39 You should be using a galvanized fastener or a fastener rated for a moisture
05:45 Scenario and again, you can see I've got a positive stop at 16 inches
05:51 Between the to keep the studs at 16 inches on center, and I'm just going to go down the wall
05:57 Installing the the studs to the bottom plate and then I'm going to lay the whole wall down
06:03 And use two and a half inch torque screws and these will be non galvanized screws
06:10 To screw the studs to the top plate and again, the top plate is not a moisture area
06:16 So you can get away with just using regular non galvanized screws
06:20 [Music]
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06:26 [Music]
06:28 (upbeat music)
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07:11 (upbeat music)
07:13 - Prior to this project, I'd been using the Kreg,
07:22 I think K2000 pocket hole jig.
07:25 It's made out of a plastic and it didn't have a dust port.
07:30 I bought this, I think it's called an Enjoywood
07:35 pocket hole jig.
07:38 It's made out of cast aluminum.
07:40 It has a height adjustment for the thickness of the wood.
07:43 It has a metric on one side
07:46 and empirical measurements on the other.
07:49 And it also comes with a stop depth guide for your drill bit.
07:54 I highly recommend this pocket hole jig.
07:57 I was very impressed.
07:59 There was no give in the jig at all.
08:01 And there was no dust when I was done drilling
08:05 all these pocket holes.
08:07 It worked out great.
08:09 It definitely exceeded my expectations.
08:11 And I'll leave a link in the video description below
08:14 if you guys wanna pick one up.
08:15 Now this is the front wall of the doghouse.
08:20 And as you can see here,
08:21 I went ahead and framed the window and the door opening.
08:25 You know, like a traditional house,
08:26 I didn't use jack studs or king studs.
08:28 It's just simple framing.
08:30 I started ripping down the exterior plywood here.
08:33 And as you can see, I'm using one of my DIY track saw jigs.
08:37 I highly recommend this jig.
08:39 And I'll leave a link here to where you can go
08:43 if you wanna see how to build one for yourself.
08:45 I highly recommend having this jig in the workshop.
08:48 I use it numerous times.
08:50 So I'm gonna use a quarter inch by one inch crown staple.
08:54 These are galvanized just to fasten the siding to the wall.
08:58 And I've left myself probably about an inch overhang
09:01 on the siding.
09:01 And then I'm gonna go back with a flush cut trim bit
09:05 on the router and then just trim up the edges of the walls
09:09 and then use that same bit to cut out for the door
09:13 and the window.
09:13 And that just seems to be the most effective way
09:16 to cut out these openings.
09:18 They're nice and clean.
09:20 And then I took the walls outside
09:22 and used the same stain I used in a fence project
09:26 that I did earlier.
09:28 I think it's a transparent or semi-transparent stain.
09:33 Brandy Wine, I think was the name.
09:36 It's a Valspar brand that I got at Lowe's.
09:38 And then I'm gonna come and take the furring strips
09:41 and rip them down to size.
09:43 And I'll paint those as well.
09:45 And then using the same crown staples,
09:48 I'll fasten the trim around the door and the window openings.
09:52 So I ripped the window trim down to,
09:57 I believe an inch and a half inches wide.
09:59 And then I left the door trim at two and a half inches.
10:03 And also on the header pieces of trim over the door
10:06 and the window, I went ahead and cut a 45 down at the bottom
10:10 to cut a dog ear on the trim.
10:14 Get it?
10:14 Dog ear, dog house.
10:16 Anyway, I think aesthetically,
10:19 it made the trim look a lot nicer.
10:21 And anything to just spruce up the dog house.
10:24 You could just leave these at 90 degree cuts.
10:27 But I think cutting a 45 dog ear on the bottom of the header
10:31 really made it look a little bit nicer.
10:33 And that's what the supervisor wanted.
10:35 So that's what I did.
10:36 Okay, so now that the concrete slab is complete,
10:48 we prefab the walls inside the workshop.
10:50 So the walls are ready to go.
10:51 It's now time to stand the walls up
10:54 and put them on the slab.
10:55 So the way that we're gonna be using to fasten our walls
10:58 to the slab is with a Ramset gun.
11:01 I don't know if you're familiar with a Ramset gun,
11:03 but it runs off of a gas or a cartridge.
11:07 This particular gun takes a 22 caliber cartridge,
11:11 which is just like a gun cartridge shell, shell casing.
11:16 And it's got a primer on it.
11:19 Once you pull the trigger, there's an explosion
11:21 and that gas from the explosion is what forces the nail
11:25 into the concrete.
11:27 So we're gonna be using two and a half inch
11:29 galvanized Ramset nails to go through the bottom,
11:32 our pressure treated bottom plates.
11:34 And then that will give us one inch penetration
11:36 in the concrete, which should allow us enough penetration
11:39 to securely fasten the walls to the slab.
11:43 So let me show you what that looks like.
11:45 (birds chirping)
11:48 (upbeat music)
12:11 (upbeat music)
12:14 (upbeat music)
12:43 Say hello to my little friend.
12:46 Okay, I couldn't resist the Scarface monologue.
12:49 And then what's this with the foreman showing his affection
12:53 for the client?
12:54 I don't think that's too professional.
12:56 So now with the back corner of the doghouse plumb,
13:01 the two back wall or the back wall and the side walls
13:03 are plumb and level.
13:05 I'm gonna shoot some two and a half inch Torx screws
13:08 into the top plate and then down the corner stud
13:12 just to fasten those two walls together
13:14 before I install the other side wall.
13:17 (upbeat music)
13:21 (upbeat music)
13:23 So there you have it.
13:48 It was that simple.
13:49 I think it was a lot easier to prefab the walls
13:52 in the workshop and then just bring the four walls out here,
13:55 stand them up, nail them to the foundation
13:58 and we're good to go.
13:59 Now, I highly recommend the Ramset gun.
14:03 I've had that gun for like 12 years.
14:05 I don't use it that often, but when you need it,
14:08 it's great to have it.
14:09 And you know, unlike my AR-15s in the military,
14:14 you really don't have to clean them.
14:15 I don't think I've ever cleaned it.
14:17 It's got rust on it and it still fires
14:19 probably better than my AR-15.
14:21 So I highly recommend the Ramset gun
14:23 and it's definitely a tool
14:25 that you wanna have in your toolbox.
14:27 Okay, so we're back in the workshop
14:29 and what we're gonna do,
14:30 similar to what we did with the walls,
14:32 we're gonna take and prefab the trusses
14:34 here in the workshop and then take them out there
14:37 and install them on top of the doghouse.
14:39 So I've done one mock-up truss
14:41 and I just wanted to show you,
14:43 to give you an idea of what it's gonna look like.
14:45 So this is the mock-up truss
14:47 and what I've done is I've marked here at the peak,
14:52 this is an angle, it's a common eight,
14:59 is what it is on the stage square.
15:02 And the degree is actually 33 degrees.
15:07 Then I just used two pieces of scrap plywood
15:10 just to give it some support here in the middle
15:12 to keep it from spreading out.
15:15 And then I've got a bird's mouth on both sides
15:18 and this is where the truss will sit on the top plate.
15:23 And again, this is cut based on the same angles
15:27 that your roof pitch is.
15:29 So a common eight is basically,
15:32 for every eight inches of rise,
15:35 there's 12 inches of run.
15:37 And that's how these angles are determined
15:39 and I'll show you on the speed square.
15:41 So this is the speed square
15:43 and as you can see here, it says pivot.
15:45 So this is our pivot point here.
15:48 And then across the bottom here,
15:52 you'll see that it says common.
15:54 So these are your common roof pitches
15:58 and it ranges from one all the way to 30 common
16:03 and what we used is eight.
16:05 So when you pivot this on the truss
16:09 and line it up with the common eight,
16:12 that's gonna give you a 33 degree angle
16:17 and let me show you.
16:20 So this is the end of our truss.
16:24 So I'm gonna start at the top
16:28 and use this as my pivot point
16:31 and then I'm gonna pivot the speed square
16:36 until it reads eight.
16:41 So it's reading eight.
16:44 So it's reading eight
16:46 and then that angle is 33 degrees.
16:50 So I'm gonna go ahead and mark the angle
16:53 and I'm really not even marking an angle.
16:57 I'm just marking eight here on the speed square
17:00 from my pivot point.
17:02 So here we are at the miter saw
17:04 and I've went ahead and set up the miter saw
17:06 to a 33 degree angle
17:08 and let's check it and see if it matches our line
17:13 and it matches it dead on.
17:16 So instead of using the speed square every time,
17:20 I know I've got my degree set up here on the miter saw
17:22 so I'm just gonna cut all the trusses
17:24 based on the miter saw here at 33 degrees.
17:28 Again, you don't need a miter saw to make these cuts.
17:31 You could use the speed square like I had previously shown
17:35 and just cut them with a circular saw on your saw horses
17:38 but since I'm prefabbing this inside the workshop
17:41 and I've got the miter saw right there,
17:43 it's just much more easier to do it that way
17:46 and then I screwed some pocket holes.
17:48 So I took one of the trusses to the pocket hole jig,
17:52 drilled two pocket holes
17:53 and now I'm fastening the two cords of the truss together.
17:58 This will just give it some stability
18:00 and then I'm gonna go and install the scrap plywood
18:03 using two and a half inch torque screws
18:06 which again will just keep the trusses
18:08 from wanting to slide apart
18:10 and then I'm gonna use the mock-up truss
18:12 so I can go ahead and lay out the bird's mouth
18:15 and the overhangs.
18:16 Okay, since my mock-up already had the bird's mouth
18:20 cut into it because I took my mock-up
18:23 over to where the walls were, centered it
18:26 and then made the markings
18:27 on where the bird mouth needed to go,
18:29 then it was just a matter of tracing them out
18:32 on all the other studs.
18:33 So I'm using this first mock-up stud as a template
18:37 for making all the other studs.
18:39 (upbeat music)
18:41 Once I got the bird's mouth
18:53 and the truss overhangs cut out of the truss,
18:58 I went back on the top cord of the truss
19:00 and cut out a two and a half inch
19:03 by three quarter inch opening
19:06 at three locations on each side of the truss.
19:09 Now, this is gonna be for a two and a half inch
19:13 by three quarter inch wood furring strip,
19:17 what I would typically call a purlin in a metal building.
19:20 And what that is gonna do is it's gonna run parallel
19:24 to the length of the doghouse
19:25 and it's gonna keep the trusses in line together
19:29 and provide lateral support to the truss.
19:32 And here I'm gonna take the same siding
19:35 I used on the walls and I'm gonna use this
19:37 just for the two gable end trusses.
19:40 And just like I did for the walls to trim the plywood,
19:43 I'm just gonna use a router with a flush cut trim bit on it
19:48 to trim off the excess plywood.
19:50 And again, this method worked the best.
19:53 You could take and cut it out with a Zolzol
19:56 or with your skill saw, but the router worked best.
19:59 Just like we did for the walls
20:02 by prefabbing them in the workshop
20:03 and then bringing them out here to where the slab is,
20:06 I did the same thing for the roof trusses.
20:08 I prefabbed the roof trusses inside the workshop
20:11 and now I've brought them out here to the actual doghouse.
20:14 I prefabbed two gable end trusses
20:17 and then two intermediate trusses.
20:19 I also notched out for purlins,
20:22 which will put and will be used
20:24 to give the trusses lateral support,
20:26 but the purlins will serve two purposes.
20:29 They'll not only give the trusses lateral support,
20:31 but they'll also give me something to screw to
20:33 to fasten the corrugated metal roof onto the trusses.
20:37 (upbeat music)
21:01 So now I'm getting ready to cut
21:03 the corrugated metal roof panels.
21:06 I'm gonna cut them 51 inches long.
21:08 By cutting them at 51 inches long,
21:10 that's gonna leave me a one inch air gap at the ridge vent
21:14 and a two inch overhang past the bottom of the roof truss.
21:19 Now to make these cuts, I'm just gonna use a circular saw,
21:22 but I did install a DeWalt metal cutting blade.
21:27 That's the most effective way
21:29 that I use to cut this corrugated metal roofing.
21:33 And leaving the one inch air gap in the ridge
21:37 will allow the hot air inside the doghouse to escape.
21:42 So the open rafter ends are all open.
21:46 So cool air will be able to come from under the roof rafters
21:50 and then the hot air will be expelled
21:52 through the ridge vent.
21:55 All right, so next thing we're gonna do
21:57 is install the corrugated metal on the roofing.
22:00 (upbeat music)
22:02 So as you can probably see over my shoulder,
22:17 I've went ahead and installed the corrugated metal
22:21 on the right hand side of the doghouse,
22:24 and it's now complete.
22:26 I didn't record it because I'm right here by the fence
22:31 and there's literally no room for me to get in there
22:35 and work and try to record.
22:36 So what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna record
22:39 me installing the left side of the doghouse.
22:42 And you'll see there are only three corrugated panels
22:46 per side, so I only need three corrugated panels.
22:49 I'm cutting them down to 50 inches.
22:52 That's gonna leave me a little air gap at the ridge vent
22:56 and then leave me an inch and a half overhang
22:59 on the rafter ends.
23:01 Okay, so I did build a rafter jig.
23:04 So this is the jig I made just so I wouldn't have to measure
23:08 the corrugated metal overhang at the rafter ends.
23:11 So I could just hold this up
23:13 to the end of the rafters like this.
23:18 And then as I put the corrugated metal panel in place,
23:21 it will automatically overhang an inch and a half
23:23 'cause I've just got a two by four spacer,
23:26 which the nominal inches is inch and a half for two by four.
23:30 So that will leave the corrugated metal overhanging
23:33 the rafter tails by an inch and a half,
23:35 which is what I was looking for.
23:37 So a pro tip, when you're installing these galvanized
23:41 one inch screws for corrugated metal,
23:44 I'll try to zoom in and see if it'll focus on that.
23:47 But it comes with a rubber washer.
23:52 And when you're using your drill,
23:54 you don't wanna drill it down too hard
23:57 and flatten the washer all the way out.
23:59 You just want it to grab and make a nice seal.
24:02 So be careful if you're using a impact driver
24:05 or something like that, loosen up on the torque.
24:08 That way you don't screw it down too tight
24:10 because you can't overscrew these roofing screws.
24:14 (upbeat music)
24:17 (upbeat music)
24:19 (upbeat music)
24:22 (upbeat music)
24:24 The roof deck is now complete
24:51 and you can see that it's a fairly nice roof for a doghouse.
24:56 It's just the corrugated metal
24:58 that you pick up at the big box store.
25:00 I got an inch and a half overhang at the rafter tail,
25:03 and then I've got a ridge vent at the top
25:05 and then an inch and a half on the other side.
25:08 And I think at the ends of the gables,
25:10 I might've had a two inch overhang
25:12 and that worked out great.
25:15 Now with the roof completed,
25:17 I had to go back and install some trim.
25:20 This is corner trim.
25:22 It's the same width as the door trim.
25:24 I believe it's two and a half inches.
25:27 So I am cutting the back trim down to two inches.
25:32 That way visibly it'll look like there's two and a half
25:37 inches on each end of the corner,
25:40 depending on what side of the corner you're looking at.
25:42 So you do have to keep that in mind.
25:44 And then also once I stepped back and took a look
25:48 after I had all the corner trim on,
25:51 it looked like it was missing something.
25:53 So I did go back and install some trim here at the gable end
25:58 and I think that really finished it out.
26:02 Once I got the left and right side gable end trim up,
26:06 it really completed the look of the doghouse
26:09 and just made it look really nice and somewhat expensive,
26:14 even though it wasn't that expensive.