How to cut a modern asymmetric bob haircut
Transcript
00:00 This is gonna be a great video for people
00:01 that are just kind of in the beginner phase
00:04 of hair cutting, even to advanced.
00:07 So we're gonna cut a lot of this off.
00:09 We're gonna do something really creative, really fun,
00:11 and I'm gonna help you take your fear
00:12 out of doing makeovers like this.
00:14 So I'm ready to go, let's get started.
00:16 All right, so the first thing that I like to do is,
00:18 especially when I'm going longer to shorter,
00:21 is put the hair into a ponytail before I cut it.
00:24 Now keep in mind, I am gonna go relatively short
00:27 and I am gonna cut this on an angle going shorter to longer,
00:32 but when you do cut the hair in a ponytail,
00:35 just remember that this is all going
00:36 to come longer this way.
00:38 Also, don't put it too high.
00:40 See how this is kind of right here?
00:42 You wanna make sure that you actually pull it down enough
00:46 so that you have some hair to work with up here.
00:47 I've seen people butcher the hair
00:49 when they put the ponytail way up here,
00:51 then you get all these steps in through here,
00:52 and it makes it a lot harder.
00:53 So I'd rather bring the ponytail down a little bit
00:57 and give myself some place good to start
00:58 and go shorter in here if I have to.
01:02 So as you can see, I'm pulling this down
01:03 so I have some hair to work with so it's not too short,
01:05 even though we are gonna go shorter.
01:07 So here's the ponytail.
01:09 You put it right in here,
01:10 and I'm gonna cut above the hair.
01:12 All right?
01:15 And sometimes, believe it or not,
01:17 here's the ponytail right here.
01:19 All right, I always like to give this
01:20 to the client as a souvenir.
01:22 Say, "Here you go, you can have this."
01:23 You can also do it when it's dry, whatever you wanna do,
01:26 but toss this, get this out of the way,
01:29 and now here's what's gonna happen.
01:30 All this hair is going to come forward on an angle,
01:33 and you've got some hair down here to work with.
01:36 We're gonna cut all this off,
01:38 but this right here is a good place to start
01:41 because it's right kinda where the hairline is,
01:43 and it's not way up here,
01:44 so I don't have steps way up here.
01:46 So now I can actually work this in.
01:48 So now let's begin to work in the back of the head
01:51 and the haircut.
01:53 And what I'm going to do
01:55 is I'm actually going to create a really kind of extreme
01:58 angle going over to one side.
02:01 So I wanna take it relatively short on one side,
02:06 probably this side here,
02:08 and then come down on an angle
02:09 to where the other side is extremely long.
02:12 All right, something fun, something creative,
02:14 and something a little bit different.
02:15 So let's create our side parting first,
02:18 and we can do that, find the natural part
02:21 by simply combing the hair back,
02:23 pushing it forward, and seeing where it wants to fall.
02:26 So it looks like a good place for the hair
02:27 to fall right into here.
02:29 There we go, so we're good now.
02:31 What I'm going to do actually
02:33 is something that you might not normally see
02:35 is I'm going to actually start on the side.
02:40 This is gonna be my first section.
02:41 It's right on the side of the head rather than the back
02:44 because what I wanna do
02:46 is I want to give myself a good guide
02:50 of where I'm going to start,
02:52 and then where I'm going to end up.
02:54 So I can start here and then work this into the back
02:57 and on the other side.
02:58 So here is gonna be my first section.
03:01 And what I'm going to do
03:03 is I'm gonna tilt the head down a little bit this way,
03:06 and I'm going to lock in with my comb like this,
03:09 and I'm going to hold with no tension,
03:13 just push the hair down like that,
03:15 and I'm going to cut a line right here,
03:20 right behind the back of the ear
03:23 where it separates the front and the back.
03:25 Okay, I'm gonna take one more section
03:28 and I'm going to comb that straight down,
03:30 and I'm gonna do the same thing.
03:31 I'm gonna comb it down, no tension whatsoever,
03:35 and I'm cutting upwards.
03:37 This way I have a longer point right there.
03:42 Now, here's where things are gonna start to get interesting.
03:47 So we're gonna take a section here,
03:51 right above it because it's still a little too thick,
03:54 and what we're gonna do is we're now going to start
03:57 to create a little bit of shape right into here.
04:02 There's where we're gonna go,
04:04 and we're gonna cut upwards like that.
04:07 So we're creating a little bit of graduation,
04:10 which is gonna give the hair a nice shape.
04:16 Follow the guide,
04:17 and we're gonna do one more section right here
04:23 to where we cut our last section.
04:26 We're combing it straight out from the head.
04:27 There is our guide right underneath,
04:29 and there we go.
04:33 This is the whole side right here,
04:35 and now what this has done,
04:37 it's created a beautiful, nice little soft bevel,
04:41 as you can see, right in through here.
04:44 This is exactly what I'm looking for.
04:46 So now is where it gets interesting
04:48 because we have this one more piece right here,
04:52 and we still have to connect this all into the back,
04:54 and you're probably wondering how on earth
04:55 are we gonna do that?
04:57 Well, let's finish this side here on the parting.
04:59 Okay, and now what we're gonna do
05:02 is we're gonna connect this,
05:05 but also extend the angle up a little bit
05:07 because we do have a new guide that we're gonna be using,
05:14 and we're gonna take one more piece,
05:16 one more section right here,
05:17 combing its back.
05:20 There's the guide, and cut,
05:24 and you can see my body positioning.
05:26 It's causing my hands to be held out here
05:29 to create some graduation,
05:32 and look, we've got beautiful shape.
05:35 It kind of bevels in nicely,
05:38 and we've got a shorter to longer angle.
05:40 So now, how do we connect this into the back?
05:43 So let's take our first section,
05:45 and our guide is going to be right where
05:49 that shortest piece is,
05:51 and we're gonna cut going downwards,
05:55 palm to palm so that we can get close
05:58 towards the hairline in the back,
06:00 and let's do one more piece right down here in the back.
06:06 So look what we've done here.
06:10 We've created our section and our guide
06:13 right in through here.
06:14 So now this connects.
06:16 Next section,
06:17 same thing.
06:20 There's our guide,
06:22 and now we're gonna cut palm to palm,
06:26 and we're gonna follow this all the way down
06:28 into the nape area like we just did.
06:32 Cutting palm to palm actually ensures
06:35 you can get it a lot closer to the scalp,
06:39 which is good, especially if you do wanna get
06:42 really, really tight in there.
06:43 Coming over the top this way, I don't suggest,
06:47 'cause you're gonna hurt yourself, trust me.
06:49 Next section, and we're gonna continue
06:53 the same pattern throughout the entire haircut.
06:57 Let's come on this side here so you can see
06:58 a little better, hopefully.
07:00 Now as you can see, we're starting
07:02 to elevate this a little bit,
07:04 and we're gonna follow the same exact pattern.
07:11 Hopefully this is gonna be easier for you.
07:14 If you're following along, that's awesome.
07:16 If you're having any problems,
07:18 you can always stop the video and go back.
07:21 And we're gonna cut all the way down into the nape.
07:28 So let's just see where we're at so far.
07:32 Now we can go back here a little bit closer if we want,
07:38 and just shape that up right in through there.
07:40 But I think it's creating a beautiful shape,
07:42 beautiful texture, beautiful shape.
07:44 And I always like to go back in at the end,
07:47 and really if we want, we can take this
07:48 really, really short back in through here.
07:50 But what we're gonna do is continue this
07:53 throughout the whole back of the head.
07:57 There's our guide right here where we left off.
08:03 We're gonna follow this pattern,
08:05 follow this guide all the way doing diagonal sections,
08:10 cutting downwards.
08:12 And the reason I'm cutting downwards, again,
08:16 is so I can get closer by cutting palm to palm
08:22 with my hands.
08:23 Don't forget to go all the way down to the bottom
08:26 because you don't wanna skip any of those hairs,
08:29 and you don't wanna come back and be like,
08:30 "Wait a minute, what is going on?
08:32 "Where's all this hair coming from?"
08:34 (upbeat music)
08:36 So as you can see here, section by section,
08:40 we're getting there.
08:41 Remove my elbow out of the way.
08:44 Here's the guide.
08:48 A lot of this with hair cutting,
08:49 especially if you're new to hair cutting,
08:51 is understanding where the guide,
08:53 seeing the guide and understanding
08:55 what's gonna happen after you cut.
08:57 You have to know what you're doing while you're cutting.
09:00 That's crucial.
09:01 And that's what's gonna help you become
09:03 a really, really good hairstylist,
09:05 is knowing when you cut something,
09:09 what is it gonna do?
09:10 What's the end result?
09:11 I know cutting palm to palm
09:14 that this is gonna allow me to get closer to the scalp.
09:17 And it's always good to go back and cross-check.
09:22 All right, it's always good to do that.
09:24 Next section, you don't wanna take,
09:27 you wanna kinda split up your sections
09:29 'cause we already cut this.
09:30 We've already cut this piece right in through here.
09:32 All right, this whole section,
09:34 we don't wanna go over it again.
09:35 So you wanna kinda leave the past behind.
09:38 Here's the guide.
09:41 Always wanna look for your guide,
09:42 make sure that you're in the right direction,
09:44 you're not cutting any new hair
09:46 'cause that always does not work out well.
09:49 Keep working towards the base.
09:51 The base is the nape line, the neck.
09:56 Always go back and double-check.
09:59 Sometimes the hair will kind of just pop out
10:01 and you'll see if something's off.
10:05 It'll be very, very obvious if something's off
10:08 because it'll look longer, you'll see steps,
10:11 and it's normal, all right?
10:12 If you can get it in one shot, then good for you,
10:15 but it's normal.
10:16 So here we are, still cutting palm to palm.
10:20 All right, I'm still cutting palm to palm
10:22 because I'm keeping my body in a good position.
10:25 I'm not making my body uncomfortable
10:29 or I'm not making myself in an awkward position.
10:31 I'm making sure that I'm right here
10:35 in front of the section where I'm cutting
10:38 and I'm able to see and execute what I need to execute.
10:41 If I were to come over the top this way,
10:44 all right, look at my body already is going like this.
10:51 I'm already hurting from this.
10:53 So you don't wanna do that.
10:54 Just follow this pattern
10:55 throughout the whole back of the head.
10:57 Now we're in the middle,
10:59 just about in the middle of the head,
11:01 and now I'm combing this pretty much straight out
11:05 from the head.
11:06 And then what we're gonna do is we're gonna switch up
11:10 and we're going to start on the other corner,
11:12 and we're gonna do the same thing,
11:15 and we're gonna end up meeting up right here in the middle.
11:20 All right, so we talked about wanting to have
11:21 an extreme look, all right, an extreme angle.
11:27 And I think that's pretty much what we have here.
11:30 Now it's just a matter of how extreme do you wanna go.
11:34 So let's go about right here,
11:38 and this is going to be our extreme angle.
11:42 You can see, let's lower the camera a little bit.
11:46 There's our extreme angle.
11:49 Works all the way down.
11:50 We're gonna work all the way down into this piece,
11:54 right in through here,
11:56 which is very, very extreme.
11:58 Now the key is how the heck do we blend this into the back?
12:02 So let's continue to work cutting our baseline,
12:08 which is gonna be the bottom here,
12:12 and we're gonna connect this into the back.
12:17 And we're simply going to take this piece,
12:23 remember, we worked into the back here.
12:25 So now we can actually create a guide right in through here.
12:30 So watch this.
12:34 You see this piece right here?
12:36 That's gonna be your guide.
12:38 I don't wanna put my elbow in your face, I apologize.
12:43 Here's the guide right here from what we cut before.
12:46 We're gonna cut this straight down.
12:49 Again, still keeping it palm to palm,
12:51 but now we have something to work off of
12:55 that's going to angle towards the front.
12:57 So it's all working in this way.
13:00 Here's our next section.
13:03 We're gonna bring this back.
13:05 We're gonna bring this all the way down
13:07 into the corner, down through here.
13:10 Next section, comb this all the way back.
13:14 We're going way back over here.
13:16 There's the guide from underneath from before.
13:22 Now we're gonna drop all the way down through here
13:26 and bring it all the way down to the corner,
13:32 working in panels so we don't cut the front.
13:36 We wanna keep that extreme angle, remember,
13:40 and we're going to.
13:41 Now we're holding our hands a little bit lower.
13:43 There's the little corner right there.
13:45 And we're keeping and maintaining that angle.
13:49 Now let's take the whole front piece right here,
13:53 this whole front piece,
13:58 and let's bring it all the way back here.
14:02 And we're going to work the angle in.
14:06 Just like that, combing this all straight back.
14:13 And there we have it.
14:17 Now watch this.
14:19 Watch this.
14:20 Let's comb this down.
14:23 All straight down and look what's happening.
14:30 You've got this beautiful angle
14:32 going now shorter to longer all the way to the front.
14:37 It works all the way down like this.
14:40 So you've got this extreme shorter piece
14:43 right in through here.
14:44 You can tuck behind the ear.
14:47 And then it works all the way down into this longer point.
14:50 And we still have some work to do in through the back.
14:55 We still have some work to do in through the back.
14:57 We wanna double check to make sure
14:59 that this all looks good and it's not too heavy.
15:02 So we're gonna do that simply by
15:06 cutting the opposite way of how we just cut before.
15:11 And the little longer hairs are gonna jump out at you
15:17 if they're longer.
15:19 And what we can do right now is bring this base up
15:23 by simply cutting it straight across.
15:27 Remember I mentioned I wanna bring the base,
15:29 the neckline up?
15:31 Well, we can do that.
15:32 Just a little bit into the back.
15:35 And let's take a look and see what we have on this side here.
15:39 Constantly comb and check, comb and check.
15:42 There's the angle.
15:46 If there's any pieces that need to be cleaned up,
15:49 now's the time to do them.
15:51 And you can do that simply by combing it straight down
15:55 and visually, you can see where the angle is.
15:58 You can sharpen that line up.
16:01 Sharpen the line up if you need to.
16:04 If not, then we're good to go.
16:06 So we've got a beautiful blend now.
16:09 Here's where I'm gonna come over the top
16:11 and I'm just gonna remove any excess weight
16:15 that I see.
16:16 Okay, so now, what do we do with the haircut,
16:23 with the layering, how do we work this in?
16:26 So let's talk about the layering
16:27 and how we're gonna remove some of the excess weight
16:29 into here.
16:30 All right, so let's start right in through here.
16:34 What we're gonna do is we're going to comb everything
16:38 straight up and we're going to remove any excess weight.
16:45 And we're gonna do that by simply cutting the corners
16:48 right in through here.
16:50 And what that's gonna do is it's going to give the hair
16:55 a little more movement and freedom and not look so heavy.
17:00 Now we're going to work towards the middle part of the head.
17:05 There's that excess weight right there.
17:08 And we're gonna cut that.
17:09 There's the excess weight and the excess length
17:14 and we're gonna cut it.
17:15 And we're simply going to make this a very, very movable,
17:21 free-flowing, amazing haircut that anything that you do
17:26 will really, really look good.
17:28 And that's what we want.
17:29 We want something really free-flowing
17:31 and something that's gonna look awesome.
17:33 So I'm just following the contour of the head.
17:37 All right, I worked into this corner,
17:39 but now here's where it gets fun.
17:43 Look at all this long hair right in through here.
17:45 That's great, but it's all excess weight.
17:48 All right, so now what we're gonna do
17:50 is we're gonna cut this to go shorter to longer
17:54 and we're gonna remove the excess weight
17:56 that's allowing it to be a little too heavy and bulky.
18:00 So we're combing it, following the pattern of the head shape.
18:05 There's the longer hair right there.
18:10 And we're just gonna cut going towards the face,
18:13 going shorter to longer.
18:15 Push this hair out of the way.
18:17 Go shorter to longer.
18:21 And there we go.
18:22 We're following this pattern
18:24 throughout the entire back of the head.
18:27 And this is crucial for this type of haircut
18:31 because you don't wanna have a lot of heavy pieces.
18:36 You want the hair to be really, really loose
18:40 and there we go.
18:40 There's a little bit extra weight right there.
18:43 Comb this all straight up from the head.
18:47 Body position is key.
18:49 Have you noticed I haven't really moved at all?
18:52 My elbow, however, is doing most of the work.
18:56 The elbow is what's pointing straight up.
18:58 Sorry, we got a little bit of a knot here.
19:00 Don't you guys hate knots when you're cutting hair
19:03 and you have to rip the client's scalp
19:05 to get the damn knots out?
19:07 All right, there is the little excess weight
19:10 right into there.
19:12 And let's go right to the very, very front.
19:14 Comb it straight up.
19:15 Remember, this is really, really extreme.
19:18 And there's that little bit right there.
19:23 So what happens, look at this.
19:26 You're gonna get longer hairs that come over this way.
19:29 That's the thing.
19:30 This haircut is designed to now to work over.
19:35 So here's what we have in the front.
19:37 So here's what that layering did.
19:38 It actually helped connect the dots here.
19:43 And it also is allowing for us
19:46 to have a more blended haircut
19:48 if you wanted to kind of sweep it all over across this way.
19:52 Now it kind of works in through the shape
19:54 and you've got some movement and some texture
19:56 going on throughout the top.
19:58 So let's blow dry it and see what we got.
20:07 Folks, I swear to you when I say I have not been drinking.
20:10 This came out, I don't even really wanna do
20:14 any finishing work on it because it came out great.
20:17 I mean, I think it's unbelievable.
20:21 It's got a great shape to it.
20:23 And what I'm gonna do now
20:26 is I'm going to bring everything forward
20:28 and I'm using the Lumina Collection.
20:31 This is a cordless smoothing iron from Neuro
20:36 from Paul Mitchell Pro.
20:37 This is unbelievable.
20:39 It's cordless, works wonders.
20:41 And all I'm gonna do is simply just
20:43 smooth this out a little bit,
20:45 give it a little more of a softer kind of finish to it,
20:49 make it lay a little bit flatter, closer to the head.
20:52 And I'm gonna do this throughout the entire head.
20:57 All right, just really doing like kind of a one pass,
20:59 making sure the cuticle's sealed,
21:01 making sure that it's nice and smooth.
21:04 And what's great about this iron
21:06 is that I can literally move around with it
21:08 and it doesn't prohibit me from having to stay in one spot
21:11 or trip over any sort of cords,
21:15 which is really, really what is amazing
21:17 about this professional tool.
21:20 All right, now we're gonna work this into the front.
21:23 Pretty standard as far as when you're smoothing out hair.
21:27 Just really, really give it a one pass.
21:30 And now let's go to the other side.
21:32 And what I like to do always is just simply brush the hair
21:35 or comb the hair out of the way.
21:37 So it's, you know, you don't need to clip it
21:39 or spend 45 minutes.
21:40 You can just simply brush it out of the way
21:43 and get the job done quick.
21:45 There we go.
21:47 It's really, really coming together now.
21:49 Really, really smoothing it out.
21:51 I like to bring all the hair forward
21:52 so I can see exactly what's happening when I smooth it
21:59 and it's looking amazing.
22:01 So what I wanna do is just go back in
22:04 and do a little bit of connecting right in through here
22:09 into the front and the other side.
22:13 So let's just angle this down.
22:17 This is really, really extreme, this haircut.
22:19 I mean, like really extreme.
22:22 It's a super sharp angle.
22:26 You don't really see a lot of this as much,
22:29 but I think, and I figured it'd be something new
22:31 and something different.
22:33 And please share this video if you found this helpful.
22:36 So as you can see, it's got really,
22:39 I mean, this is pretty sharp, folks.
22:42 This is definitely a very, very sharp, unique look.
22:46 So we comb this down here.
22:49 There's where the guide is.
22:53 There's this piece.
22:54 What I'm gonna do is I'm simply going to slide cut this down
22:59 from this corner to that corner right there.
23:03 And what that's doing,
23:04 it's allowing this to now work itself into,
23:08 now, of course, she's blind now, she can't see,
23:11 but if this were to go over this way
23:15 and you wanted to create a really, really sharp, sleek look,
23:19 you can now work this all in
23:21 and it now has a more sleek kind of angle and shape to it.
23:25 So now I'm gonna spin this around.
23:27 This is done.
23:28 I've done absolutely no post-cutting to this.
23:31 If you really get a good haircut from the start,
23:34 you don't have to go in and do really much of anything.
23:36 Not to say that it's bad, but you,
23:41 I think this is great.
23:43 I think it's really, really amazing.
23:44 You can also slick this behind the ear
23:46 and tuck this behind the ear as well,
23:48 which I think looks very, very glamorous.
23:51 And this goes over this way,
23:53 which I think is really, really sexy, to be honest with you.
23:57 This is a sexy haircut, man.
23:58 I mean, there's no denying it.
23:59 So let's turn the head around slowly.
24:01 As you can see,
24:03 you've got the beautiful angle right into here.
24:05 I think it came out gorgeous.