Creative Color - Creative Hair Color Techniques
Transcript
00:00 Hey guys, it's Rebecca Taylor. I am Redken's creative colorist. We're actually in Salon
00:06 Centric at the Bray location, but this cool thing that's going on right now is all Salon
00:11 Centric all over the country, but they've got a shade of palooza or shade palooza sort
00:16 of promotion that's going on where you can bring in 6 to 30 tubes of your non-Salon Centric
00:22 color, bring it to any Salon Centric and you'll trade it out tube for tube for Redken color.
00:28 So that's all the promotional stuff. I will probably tell you a little bit more about
00:32 that in a minute, but I want some fun stuff to happen. So Shannon's going to come close.
00:36 I'm going to draw you near into our mannequin situation we had here. I want to give you
00:41 a background because I feel like that's important to know how we got here and how we're going
00:45 to do the technique we're doing. So this mannequin, you guys know mannequin situations aren't
00:50 always the best. They don't always lift the best, all that good stuff. So this little,
00:54 this deer here, this peach, she was about a brown red level 5 I'd say. So we used flash
01:01 lift and 40 volume and got her lifted to this sweet blorange color. So when you're working
01:07 with fashion color, it's not all about getting it to like a 9 or 10 canvas. Honestly, the
01:12 reality, the salon reality is to work with what canvas you have. So instead of like fighting
01:17 with it or just going all dark, I decided to work with more of like a springtime because
01:21 we're all wanting the cold to go away, like a springtime warm palette. Also like a tequila
01:26 sunrise vibe, but I'm not going to get into why that's my inspo. But so yeah, we're going
01:30 to work with what we have here. And so I have some city beats. I'm going to show you guys
01:33 what I mix. Come on in. Don't be shy. Okay. So what I have here, I put a tube of the clear
01:40 city beats and I'd say like a half an ounce of the midtown magenta. And that's how I arrived
01:47 at this like pretty bright kind of hot pink. I can swatch it on the paper and you can also
01:51 see what it's going to look like on the hair. In this one, I have the Chelsea coral, a little
01:56 bit of the, where are we at here? I've always forget the names. I'm terrible, but this really
02:02 the ballet pink and a little bit of clear as well to create this pretty coral. And then
02:09 in here we have like half yellow and half yellow or half yellow and half yellow, half
02:13 yellow and half clear to get. So this is our canvas and I'm doing not just your typical
02:18 melt because I feel like we've seen all kinds of gradient color melts like a ton. And what
02:24 I've been into, and I know a lot of you guys have been into lately is like a shine line
02:27 vibe. So I'm going to kind of go into a gradient where I do like the darker color melted into
02:33 the mid, which would be the lighter color and then going back into the darker color.
02:37 So I already got started. I already have the, uh, the darker magenta color at the root.
02:43 So let's see here. And if we have questions like, is this a live where we have questions
02:48 and we can answer? Yeah. Okay, cool. So I'm going to get started just by basing. And I
02:52 know that part is like kind of boring, but it's a necessity. Um, when I do my application,
02:58 I don't do or don't apply like with a hard line and do marcation. I like to feather it
03:03 down just a little bit and I would be super tidy if this was a human. Clearly I would
03:09 not be like getting it all over her face. I'd be wiping as I go, all that good stuff,
03:14 but I'm dragging down just a little bit. And then once I get her base, I'm going to go
03:18 back in and do the shine line that we talked about. Um, so these in, in store, like insulin
03:24 centric promotions and stuff are super fun. Cause not only do we get to educate, cause
03:29 we have a bunch of attendees back there, but also we get to go live and like answer your
03:33 questions and all that good stuff. So this shade Palooza thing they have going on, it's
03:37 pretty cool. I suck at like memorization. So if I glance, um, I could never be, what
03:42 do you call it? Like a newscaster or something. Cause I would forget everything I'm supposed
03:45 to say. Um, but when you bring your tubes in, let's see, you know, you're not only get
03:50 like the trade out to try Redken. Um, so that way you don't have like a bunch of stuff you're
03:54 not using at the salon. So if you want to try Redken, if you haven't already, if you
03:57 want to try like city beats or the shade DQ pastels or something like that, just bring
04:02 in your non salon centric tubes of color, trade it out, try it out. All that good stuff.
04:08 You get an applicator. This is where I cheat. You'll get a Redken brush. You'll get a bowl,
04:14 get applicator bottle. You get a bottle of developer. Let's see what else. And you get
04:20 20 and you get 25% off any Redken hair color, new user kit. And so let's see here. There
04:28 was something else. You get 20% off all Redken color in general. Isn't that right? For today
04:34 and tomorrow, today and tomorrow. I think that's all the stuff that I'm supposed to
04:38 say about the promotion, but it's really cool. I mean, I've personally been using Redken for
04:43 ages like the beginning of my career or, you know, like from the start, like 15 years and
04:48 then them having some new stuff like, you know, competing with the direct eye market,
04:51 which is a necessity in my book. And then also kind of like staying relevant with the
04:57 pastels now offering shades, EQ pastels. I think there's just a lot of cool things going
05:02 on now with the line that you guys, if you haven't tried out, it's a good time to try
05:05 out. So meanwhile, meanwhile, back with the color application. How's everybody doing today?
05:13 Where are you at? How is your Monday? Are you chilling? Are you working? What are you
05:18 guys doing? We have people from all over. Toto, Michigan, Philadelphia, cold places.
05:27 So that's why this inspiration is even better. Just think of you have your Island sangria
05:32 or whatever, and it's spring and it's warm. Go to a warm place. That's what I'm trying
05:36 to like evoke with this. I just got back from a bunch of cold places like Utah and I don't
05:42 know, cold places. Where is that? I don't even know where I've been. Where is that place?
05:47 Sweden? Oh yeah. It's like, it was just there. So it's super cold. So I think I'm just trying
05:51 to emulate nice, warm, fun things. All right. So I got this section based. I'm not going
05:56 to do the whole thing. Cause again, that's like watching paint dry. Super boring. So
06:00 I've got my darker color on, so I'm going to start transitioning. Can you see? Okay.
06:05 Okay. So I'm going to transition. There's a bunch of different ways to do this. Sometimes
06:11 people like putting their lighter color in the middle first and kind of working off of
06:14 that. I'm going to go through and just do the full gradient. And then you guys can see
06:20 if there's a little bit of drag from the peach or the coral into the yellow, but it's not
06:25 the end of the world. I'll put the peach there. Make sure it's like a pretty, pretty smooth
06:31 line of demarcation. You can wipe your gloves off in between. I'm about to do that actually.
06:37 But in the meantime, just to make this simpler, I'm just going to switch, kind of flip my
06:40 hand over and then you follow with the darker color. So you guys can see it's a really pretty
06:45 melt from dark to light and then going down in the gradient back to dark. There. I'm going
06:53 to use a foil partition in there. So the city beats, I've used them all guys. I really,
06:59 really, I feel like in the last 14 years I've been using fashion color. I've used them all
07:03 and why I've sort of chosen, I guess, if you will, city beats many different reasons. I
07:10 like how much dialogue there is to start with because I like customizing. So if you start
07:15 out with, I guess more of a punch with your dialogue, then you have somewhere to go. You
07:19 can dilute it from there. Um, not only that, but they're acidic. So they have like a, like
07:25 a natural acidic base, which makes the hair really, really like healthy and shiny and
07:29 light reflective. Um, and you're typically working on pre-lightened hair. So if you have
07:34 pre-lightened hair, you want it to be like healthy and pretty and shiny. You don't want
07:38 it to be dull and sad and whatever, because sometimes, like I said, at the beginning of
07:43 this, you don't want to push the hair past the point of no return just to get a target
07:48 shade. Um, and it's a matter of working with the canvas you have. So not only working with
07:53 the canvas you have, but making it look as pretty as it can, because a lot of times with
07:57 fashion color, it gets a bad rap because people think, Oh, you have to like, I don't know,
08:02 just over process the hair and fashion color looks icky, but you can really have it look
08:07 high end and really shiny and really, really healthy. And that's, I mean, there's tons
08:12 of reason why I like it. I think also Reg, uh, Reg, what is that? Redkins Education Foundation
08:19 is so strong. I've always, always respected like just the foundation that's there, um,
08:25 with the, uh, exchange in New York and just how many events that they are a part of and
08:30 new looks and collections. I just, honestly, I'm really proud to be with the brand that
08:34 I've followed and loved since the beginning of my career. So that's for me, like why I
08:40 guess Redkin and why City Beats. So you guys can see it's pretty, I don't want to say repetitive,
08:46 but I'm doing the same thing as I move up the head. When you're applying direct dye,
08:50 it doesn't really matter where you start. I mean, when you're doing gray coverage and
08:54 lightening, it matters, but direct dye, there's nothing going on with like body heat or, um,
09:00 saturation or anything. So more or less it's practical, um, practical application. So why
09:05 I'm starting from the bottom moving up is gravity. So I'd rather like apply and let
09:10 the hair like fall and sit comfortably that way. If I were to start at the top, then you'd
09:15 have to probably worry about a foil or a mesh or something like that. Um, and I'm just taking
09:21 small enough sections for me to work with. So do we have any questions? I love interaction.
09:26 Talk to me, guys. Don't leave me hanging up in this salon centric. You guys are funny.
09:32 So Hannah said she is starting her second job at four, but would love to see how this
09:36 color turns out. Don't worry, Hannah, we will be posting an after, um, in the comments section.
09:41 I'll put it on my social too. So yeah, comment section and then on my social media, this
09:46 is a shameless self promotion. So Rebecca Taylor hair, it's going to be there. Probably
09:50 Redkin stories, salon centric stories, like all the stories and in the comment section
09:55 and then me too. I'm going to get branded. I'm going to like put my own apron on. I'm
09:59 just kidding. Not really. Not really. All right. So one other tip I can give you guys
10:03 about this. So if you're too repetitive and let's say if you always stop the pink in the
10:08 same spot, moving up the head and then transition to the coral and the yellow, you might end
10:13 up with a visual weight line that doesn't aesthetically look pleasing. So if you see
10:18 this one, I kind of had the pink go up a little further, I'd say. And this one I drug, I can't
10:23 talk drug down a little bit more. If you vary where these colors start and stop, it's going
10:29 to end in like a softer result. So that's something to keep in mind when you're applying
10:33 this. It's pretty much the same technique, you know, with the color choices and all that
10:38 good stuff, but just kind of vary where your shine line starts and stops and then it'll
10:43 be prettier to the eye in the long run. So who's into shine lines? I know you guys have,
10:49 you're on social media, you've seen them, either you love them, you don't like them,
10:54 whatever the deal is. Like, does anybody have an opinion on the shine line technique that's
10:57 been coming and going and here and there and being like, I guess, expanded on or utilized
11:03 in different ways? I personally love it because I think for the longest time I've just been
11:08 personally doing like a shadow root, like dark to light. I just think this is a fun
11:13 play on gradients because you're going back to the dark and it's just like a, I don't
11:17 know, it's different. Different is good to me because the same old, same old gets boring.
11:23 That's pretty. I have a short attention span, but that's your color scheme. So if you want
11:28 to know what it's going to look like, this is like your, your pretty springtime tequila
11:32 sunrise color scheme. I'm like in my zone now, in my zone. So Hannah, I hope you have
11:40 a good day at work. You're probably already gone. What else is everybody doing today?
11:44 Are you working? Are you scrolling and learning? Like what's everybody doing on their Monday?
11:51 While I paint this mannequin head in the salon centric. Yesenia wants to know what store
11:58 you're at. We're at the Brea one. So I couldn't tell you geographically. It's like somewhere
12:03 North of Hollywood where I live. Isn't it North? South? See, I told you I couldn't tell
12:09 you geographically. I moved to California two years ago and I still don't know my Norths
12:13 and Souths. I'm really terrible, but we're at the Brea location. And they're all super
12:18 nice here. And we had a bunch of attendees turn up. So we're doing some education with
12:22 Chase Longo and myself. And so we're doing like balayage. And then I did a really pretty,
12:29 what did I do? A shade CQ pastels look on my model, my live model that I balayaged first.
12:37 So all of that stuff, all the video and all the how to that's going to be posted on our
12:40 pages as well. I like your angles. Get it Spencer. Sweet. So do you guys kind of see
12:52 how this is coming together? I would do this over the entire head. If anything, I would
12:56 do a variation of, I would say if she had shorter hair in the back, I'll use this as
13:02 an analogy. Let's say she had like a A-line bob where it's shorter in the back, longer
13:06 in the front. If you were to do a foil highlight, let's say, you know, you never put those foils
13:12 on shorter hair in the back because they're so short, they end up looking kind of like
13:16 leopard spots or, or just something that isn't visually pleasing to the eye. So if she had
13:22 a shorter haircut, I would probably do a solid color like this pink all over in the back
13:27 and then start doing this technique as I move towards the longer hair. Also what you could
13:31 do if you want to switch it up a little bit and customize it, you could do pieces that
13:36 are just maybe like pink at the root that go out and that are yellow or the standard
13:40 gradient from dark to light. So you could do like a money piece of fashion color and
13:46 just switch it up a little bit. So there's all kinds of ways you can customize this basic,
13:50 you know, like kind of, I don't know, blanket technique. But just customize it based on
13:55 your canvas and your client or your model's needs. But it's pretty simple. It's fun to
14:00 do too. You can do it with any different color like scheme. If you want to do cool tones,
14:07 you know, if your canvas was lighter and brighter and didn't have as much warmth as mine has,
14:12 you could do it with purples and blues. And also if she was like, let's say she's really,
14:18 really light, and you wanted to keep blonde in there, you could have your shine line be
14:22 blonde and not have any color and then not put anything in there. So you're dark, light,
14:28 dark in that way too. So there's all different kinds of ways you guys can switch this up.
14:33 So I'll have you guys comment. So who has or who uses Redken now? Or who is familiar
14:40 with City Beats and Shades Pastels? I'll have you comment. We'll see. We'll get this interaction
14:46 going. I know it takes a couple of minutes to translate. Nobody! No, I'm kidding. No.
14:55 Like if there's anything you guys want to know about it, like feel free to ask. This
14:59 is your time to, you know, I'm happy to answer any and all questions for you guys. See how
15:03 I switched up a little bit? I took out the peach or the coral. And now it's like a more
15:11 obvious, like dark, light, dark. Anytime you take out a mid or a transition color, it definitely
15:19 is more, how should I put it? I guess more graphic or more visible. And isn't such a
15:26 smooth line of demarcation. I'm going to put it in there anyway, just because after the
15:30 fact. And there's no need to like put a foil in between every section because the gravity
15:39 situation, the hair isn't so heavy that it's going to smoosh or transfer. It's just going
15:44 to sit lightly on the piece underneath. And since it's already saturated with the City
15:48 Beats, you don't have to worry about any transfer with the color. And then when you're rinsing
15:53 this, freezing cold water, this is my opinion, freezing, freezing cold water. I personally
16:01 don't shampoo. That's just me. I just rinse very, very, very thoroughly and then finish
16:06 with a conditioner of your choice. Do you want to repeat the formula again? Okay, let's
16:15 see here. I mix my direct eyes like paint, so I'm not a big measure when it comes to
16:19 direct eyes. I feel like they're very visual. Like what you see is what you get. That's
16:22 absolutely the way it is. They don't oxidize. But see if I can remember exactly how I mixed
16:27 my paint. So I started with a tube of the clear. Maybe like, I don't know if you guys
16:34 can tell how much is left in that. Probably about there. So this much of the Midtown Magenta.
16:40 That's that one. It's a really pretty like hot pink magenta. This one is a tube of clear
16:45 as well. The Chelsea Coral and a little bit of the City Ballet of like the pastel pink.
16:52 And then this one is a tube of clear a tube of the yellow. Isn't it yellow cab yellow?
16:58 I'm about a cab, right? Yes, I'm proud of myself, gold star. I love the name, the names
17:03 of them, but I'm like, I feel like I have so much information in my head. It's hard
17:06 to like keep up with all of them. But yeah, those are my formulas. And if you guys want
17:10 to customize and do your own thing, like feel free. That's the fun part with direct eye.
17:14 So this one, I'm totally going to switch up. Kind of like the one that I did below where
17:19 I didn't use the Chelsea Coral as my transition color. So I'm going to make sure I have a
17:24 like a nice gradient with the magenta. Go down a little bit farther. And then I'm going
17:31 to use yellow. Using my hands, y'all don't judge me. Wow, the southern just come came
17:38 way out on that one. So I'm going to get in there and really, really emulsify these two
17:43 colors together. And then I'm going to go back and follow up with the magenta. And I
17:49 think this is going to make like a softer, honestly, like a softer sort of veil piece
17:54 that goes over top. Rebecca, can these colors have neon effects? They sure can. So the reason
18:02 why I am diluting them with clear, a couple reasons, like they will go brighter. They'll
18:08 go it's hard to it's hard to describe. Like if you use them straight out of the tube,
18:13 they're very rich, like jewel tones. You put a little bit of clear and they still have
18:17 a ton of dialogue and they can be brighter like neon. If you use even more clear, then
18:22 they go more sheer and lived in a pastel. So you can control the intensity of the color
18:28 based on how much clear that you mix. So all of these ones like the magenta, for instance,
18:33 straight out of the tube, it's very, very dark. I'm going to show you. Very, you know,
18:39 pretty, pretty intense has quite a dialogue. So by adding like half clear and a little
18:43 bit of this, you come to the neon, you would put even more clear and it will become a brighter
18:49 pink. And then you can change the quality of that pink by either adding like a violet
18:55 tone or yellow. It just tons of like variations that you can do to customize these. But yes,
19:03 even though they may not say like this is our neon range, you can absolutely create
19:06 neon shades with it. Like the yellow, it's pretty neon. I mean, once you put that on
19:10 hair, yeah, this is like a level eight, like I said, Blorange. But if you were to put this
19:15 on like super light lifted level, like 10 hair, this would be incredibly neon. Really,
19:22 they all would. So it has a lot to do with your starting canvas just as much as it does
19:26 your customization of the colors. Get my blend on. Does this make you like want to do it?
19:44 Or is it relaxing watching it be done? I'm the type where if I watch something, I'm like,
19:48 yeah, I'm inspired. I love it. But I'm like, Oh, I want to get my hands in it. This is
19:51 a good example. You see how those look pretty neon and their quality because it's on like
19:55 a white paper towel. So they look more neon if you're putting it on level 10 versus level
20:00 eight. I think this is almost my last piece here in the front. And this one I'm going
20:11 to do more of my like what I started as my standard pink to coral to yellow to coral
20:16 to pink. Another trick to if you want these colors to stay super separate, wipe your gloves
20:33 off in between every shade change. If you do that, you're not going to drag the pigment
20:39 down into the next section. Like I'll wipe my gloves off, get all that pink off of there,
20:44 all that coral. And then when I grab my yellow, another trick, this is kind of two in one.
20:52 If you start below where you plan on melting those colors, start just a little bit below
20:58 and work your way up to the coral. You're not sort of dragging the coral down and convoluting
21:04 that tone. It stays pretty, you know, bright and true to its tone or vibrancy, I'll say.
21:13 And then I'm gonna do the same thing with the coral and then the magenta and then we'll
21:17 pretty much be good to go. You guys I think get the technique at that point. I do a lot
21:34 of emulsifying and a lot of like using my hands for sure. Just because with this type
21:40 of color, there's no oxidation at all. So there's nothing chemically that's going to
21:46 open the cuticle and drive it in. So mechanically, you have to with your hands. So keep in mind
21:50 when you're working with direct dye, saturation and blending is like super, super key. So
21:56 do we have any like last, I don't know, I don't know how, where we're at with time,
22:01 but do we have any other questions about anything that we can answer while you're tuning in?
22:06 It's always weird talking to yourself with these lives. I'm like, ah, hello. I just appreciate
22:15 you guys tuning in. You have all kinds of other stuff you could be doing. So if you're
22:18 watching clearly, you really take your profession and stuff seriously. So I appreciate the fact
22:23 that you're tuning in. Anyways, just you could just be watching quietly. That makes me happy.
22:28 It's good enough. This one, I'm totally going rogue, switching it up. No yellow. Just going
22:38 to do the coral and then switch into the magenta. And by doing these last minute sort of like,
22:45 you know, not repetitive type things. This is what gives your color a really unique look
22:51 and a really organic, like soft flow. So this more pink peach piece will veil over top of
23:00 this more graphic shine line business that's going on. I think she's going to like it.
23:06 She may not have much emotion going on, but I really think she's excited about it. Yeah.
23:13 Wrap it up. We're getting one of these. We're getting one of these. Sorry, they can't control
23:19 me. I'm just so wild. I'm sorry. So I just, I really appreciate you guys tuning in. If
23:24 you have any more questions, leave it in the comments and we'll get back to it. So we keep
23:27 an eye on it. I do. Redkin does. Everybody does. So if you have any after the fact questions,
23:33 we're here to answer them for you. So I really, really appreciate it. And I hope you guys
23:36 have a great Monday. We'll put the finish in the, in the comments so you guys could
23:40 see the way this turned out. So yes, the shade of Palooza, go to Salon Centrics all over
23:44 the place. Trade in your non salon centric color, six to 30 tubes for Redkin color. Yeah.
23:51 And it'll be awesome. You get to check it out. So thank you guys so much.