How to cut a Short Layer Haircut Tutorial step by step - part1
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00:00 Okay, so here's the template just here, so as long as you're working with the template
00:04 of the hand, so you're going from 6, 5, 4 and 3, just coming through the sides, and
00:09 what that basically does is you're in a position where it allows you to carry the template
00:14 with you at all times.
00:16 Then what you can do then is you can basically put that on the head and be able to see where
00:23 you've got to go with it.
00:24 As long as you remember what you're doing with the razor as you're coming in, that's
00:27 the important part and then it just allows you to finish the cut.
00:32 If you come into it straight, it will go straight, so you have to remember that it's a moving
00:36 guide and that the knuckles are going inwards when you're doing it, which is really important.
00:43 So again, it's very important.
00:44 That's probably a little bit over-exaggerated.
00:47 I need to do it more like what you do to me when you do it.
00:51 Yeah, I see.
00:52 So as you come through to this part, you can just...
00:55 That's what we do in the day, Tom, when you're not aware of it.
00:59 That's what we do.
01:00 It's fairly hard, but smooth.
01:01 Excellent.
01:02 What's that, the motion or the cut?
01:05 Thank you.
01:06 Thanks, big mate.
01:07 So we keep going off.
01:08 It's just quite annoying, but at least now you can sort of see we're trying to get a
01:14 different position within the salon.
01:16 We've not got optical fiber here, so everything's quite primitive, but at least it allows us
01:21 to show everything that we're doing.
01:24 Right, now we're coming through at an angle.
01:26 So come through the sides.
01:29 Again, you have to remember the angle that you're cutting at, because if you've got that
01:33 angle, you can basically do the angle you need.
01:36 It's the angles of the hands.
01:38 Again, they're doing all the work.
01:39 It's the moving round.
01:40 It's coming at an angle.
01:41 There's a lot to think about.
01:42 Now, this part's really important, because this is, again, what starts the shape off
01:48 as you come into the size of the pixie, which is what gives us the look.
01:52 I'll just come round this way slightly.
01:55 Yeah, it's a shame your mum and dad can't see this one tonight while they're out cruising.
01:59 They might be live tonight.
02:00 You don't know, do you?
02:01 Well, I'm on Ventura.
02:03 That's it.
02:04 So again, the importance of this is, obviously, we've pre-prepared Claire's hair with the
02:10 Fat Mook blowout mousse, and what that is doing is allowing me to see where I'm going
02:15 with the shape as I'm coming through.
02:17 And again, with the angle of the razor blade as I'm cutting into it, it's also giving me
02:23 a chance to create the shape, which again is very important.
02:26 But the important part of this actual exercise is looking at how your hand's working in harmony
02:34 with the product, and also with the tool that you're using as well, because again, it's
02:40 quite nice to change tooling, because when you use a razor blade or you use scissors,
02:45 you think it's so great how you can change things around.
02:48 Don't be too scared to use it either.
02:50 A lot of people tend to fear the razor.
02:52 It's best to use a razor blade probably on a dry haircut first once you're finishing
02:56 off with it.
02:57 That way you can get your confidence up with it, or of course, practice on a mannequin doll.
03:01 But like people always say, the more practice you do, the better you get.
03:06 And always remember to use the right side of the blade as well, because you've got to
03:11 think about a lot of things, what it's doing, where it's going, how it's shaping the hair.
03:15 They're all really important things to think about.
03:18 So now we can see the shape coming through there.
03:20 We've got a nice shape.
03:21 It's moving around slightly.
03:22 Now we go through to a middle part here.
03:24 This will allow us to get the balance around this area here, because what you now have
03:29 is a weight line around the parietal ridge, which is one of Ross's favourite bones, of
03:32 course, the parietal ridge.
03:34 The part that tells us when we do a layer on the top, when to bend over to a rounded
03:39 layer, which sits about half way down from the centre point of the haircut.
03:43 Okay, so now I'm just going to come through the other side.
03:46 Let me just turn around this way.
03:47 Come from this angle.
03:48 There you go.
03:49 Makes it easier.
03:50 Now I've got the lights fixed, I can see everything.
03:52 It's great.
03:54 So now we're just coming again.
03:56 It's a question of keeping everything squared up, so we're going round square.
03:59 There's no angles.
04:01 The only angle you're going at is what we did earlier.
04:03 So we're literally just coming in, pulling it around at 7 o'clock, then we go around
04:08 at 8 o'clock.
04:09 Again, what this travelling guide does is it takes the corner off.
04:12 A lot of hairdressers are actually trained to keep corners on.
04:15 So by taking the corner off, it gives you a much stronger shape.
04:19 If you kept the corner on, it would be heavier in the back.
04:21 You tend to find that if you keep that corner over here in the back, it really grows out
04:25 faster.
04:26 Take the corner off, just lasts that little bit longer.
04:30 So now I'm just coming through the sides.
04:33 Now we'll do a bit of gliding with the blade as we do this.
04:35 So as we glide through the corner, it's quite smooth.
04:38 It just glides straight through, and then she just cuts out that angle.
04:42 You need to be at the angle again, because as you're doing this, it's connecting the
04:45 two together.
04:46 But removing the weight line, which is what you need.
04:49 And as I touch it, you can sort of see how it just sort of starts to fall naturally on
04:52 its own base.
04:53 Again, the razor's a beautiful tool to work with.
04:56 It really is great to do a haircut, really, with a razor blade.
05:00 This is a lot of theatre.
05:02 A lot of people, when they come in, will look at this and think, "Wow, that's incredible
05:06 that you're actually cutting hair with a razor blade.
05:08 You're not actually doing it with a pair of scissors."
05:10 We can add that into it later.
05:11 But this, again, the reason I chose to do Claire's hair with a blade is because I think it showcases
05:17 softness, and it also showcases the fact that it's a versatile product and a stylish thing
05:22 to use at all.
05:23 Just go back to where you were with the camera set.
05:26 It's brilliant.
05:28 So we don't lose the signal again.
05:30 Awesome.
05:31 So we'll be on to part four.
05:32 It'll be like something out of Cromp Stoppers or something.
05:36 Here we go, part six.
05:38 Actually, Star Wars.
05:39 Star Wars, part six.
05:42 Scotty's part six.
05:44 Beam me up, Scotty.
05:45 Beam me up.
05:46 That's right.
05:47 Well done.
05:48 That's it.
05:49 A lot of people used to say that when I was at school.
05:50 So now you can see we're coming through to this side, cutting backwards with the razor,
05:54 which, again, is quite tricky.
05:56 A lot of people just like to get hold of the razor and just cut it in like that, but I
05:59 think you can be a little bit more elegant if you just cut it backwards.
06:04 It's a bit of flair as well.
06:05 Airdressers are flair.
06:06 It's great.
06:07 It's all about freedom of speech with the razor and scissors.
06:12 It's great.
06:13 It's almost like a choreographed dance, which is why it should look natural.
06:16 But again, it's all practice of doing things differently.
06:19 Okay, so we've now got the layers done from there down, which now gives us a really nice
06:26 shape.
06:27 We're now going to work from the top.
06:28 So we're working from the apex through to the upper occipital bone.
06:34 So if you think of it as the high point of the haircut, a lot of people tend to struggle
06:38 with the high point.
06:39 You just literally just put your razor on the top there and you can see roughly where
06:42 your high point is around this area here, which is the crown.
06:45 So now I'm just going to come back around the opposite way.
06:49 What we're doing now is you have to think of this, how you would do it with a pair of
06:53 scissors.
06:54 So you hold it up like that.
06:55 You join the apex through to the upper occipital bone.
06:59 Now the important part of this also is no drag.
07:01 So what you tend to get is drag.
07:03 So by lifting it up, you get no drag, which means that if you've got drag, that's going
07:07 to be quite heavy and it'll hold heavy and it'll look, it just won't look right.
07:11 So when you're working with a razor blade, it's the other way around.
07:14 So you lift it up.
07:15 As you can see, there's no drag there.
07:17 If you had drag it a bit like that.
07:18 All you do then is just drop your blade in and literally just cut it up towards your
07:22 fingers.
07:23 You've got a little bit of guard on it, so it's not a problem.
07:25 And then all you do then is just bring it round.
07:27 Now, the important thing is you'll be working round on this like in sections of an orange.
07:31 So you go around.
07:32 So again, we'll just divide this off slightly.
07:35 And again, remembering you are lifting it up because if you don't, it'll affect the cut.
07:40 Again, this is really important to join the two together.
07:43 I tend to find some hairdressers tend to leave this squared through the back, which is okay.
07:48 But you've got a lot of weight and as it grows out, that squareness grows out.
07:52 By rounding it off, it grows out equally at the same time and gives you more body through
07:58 the top.
07:59 Anybody else just joined us?
08:00 Any questions?
08:01 Lynn Atkinson asked me if I've got arm ache yet.
08:06 What's the answer, Chloe?
08:08 Not yet.
08:09 That's a good answer.
08:10 Well done.
08:11 Well done, Lynn, for asking the question.
08:14 My dad never says that when he's on at all.
08:17 Right, now we're cutting backwards.
08:19 Matthew Sidwell.
08:20 Good to see you with us tonight.
08:22 Good to see you.
08:23 I hope you're doing well and I hope you're sticking to the plan we spoke about.
08:29 Good year, 2017.
08:30 Keep it up.
08:31 I want to hear that you're doing all right.
08:34 Stick with the program, my friend.
08:36 Ben Lavender and Charlie Brooks.
08:38 Hey, Charlie Brooks.
08:39 Woo, Charlie Brooks.
08:40 Ben Lavender, Bam Bam.
08:41 Nice to see you with us tonight from Saxon.
08:44 Well done.
08:46 Nice to see you with us there.
08:48 We'll have a few more from Saxon Fitness in a minute.
08:51 They'll start coming on in a second.
08:53 Charlie Brooks.
08:55 Woo.
08:56 A legend in her own right there, Charlie Brooks.
08:58 Right, you can see now as I'm shaking this off, you can start to see the shape as it starts to turn in and give us a nice shape.
09:04 So now we're going to go through to the top part.
09:06 As you can see, the silhouette of the shape, it gives it a lot more movement.
09:09 So now we'll be working in a circle.
09:14 Through the top, again, most people cut this way, which is a solid amount of air coming forward.
09:19 We're going to be going short to long to preserve the length of the fringe.
09:24 And then we'll be working from 9 o'clock to 12 o'clock, then from the other side from 12 o'clock to 3 o'clock.
09:30 So you have to think that the arm, that's the mechanics of this cut, is my arm here, which is dictating time.
09:37 So that's dictating--big "R" for that--11, 12.
09:43 And the time I need.
09:44 So I'm now going to do two things.
09:46 I'm going to lift it up to the time and elevate it up as well.
09:49 So I'm pulling it up towards me to keep and preserve the length that's on the front.
09:54 So when you're looking at it, it's going short to long.
09:57 That's the only way you can do it.
09:59 If you were to cut it all off really short, then you'd find that you'd have no fringe.
10:04 So you have to think about all these things.
10:07 It's all about the bigger picture as your arms are.
10:10 Yeah.
10:13 Thanks. You're doing good.
10:17 So as we get to the top, now we're coming up to 12.
10:22 You can see I'm really pulling it up there just to slide it down for the benefit of Chloe and the camera.
10:26 So we're now just pulling it through.
10:28 One quick pull off the end, and that leaves the length on there.
10:33 And then we just give that a little shake.
10:35 We can see from your angle, we've kept the length of the fringe, and it also is blended in.
10:40 There's no steps, no lines.
10:42 You can see the softness coming through just there, so when it's dried, we're now starting to pixie-file the cut.
10:47 Donna Morris has joined.
10:49 Who's that, sir?
10:50 Donna Morris.
10:51 Donna Morris! Nice to see you with us, Donna.
10:53 Hope you're okay.
10:54 This should look quite familiar for you, this section from when you were having your hair done three and a half weeks ago tonight.
10:58 Right, so now we're going to go through the top.
11:01 We're going to slide down, we're going to go from 12 through to 3 o'clock.
11:05 So we're now just going to come through again.
11:07 Now remember, we're going short to long as we're coming through this area here.
11:11 So we're just coming here, cutting backwards, and we're literally coming up towards the fringe, which is preserving that length just through there.
11:19 So again, we'll use scissors in a minute.
11:22 After this part, we'll come through, get the cut in.
11:27 Dean Payne, good to see you with me tonight.
11:29 Hope you're okay, brother. Happy New Year to you.
11:31 Woo!
11:32 From one hairdresser to another.
11:35 Hope you've been around to see Paul and Barbara.
11:38 This is another hairdresser I used to train with.
11:42 Dean was there on the bus when I used to see him many years ago.
11:45 We took him a long time ago as well, now.
11:47 It's nice.
11:49 That's why I say you never quite know who's going to come on, so it's nice.
11:52 You can see now we've come around to the other side.
11:54 So the raise is still going.
11:57 Again, we're pulling up to preserve the length on the front.
12:00 If I want to say something, we're too far away.
12:03 Donna, my wrist is quite high, so I can't wait for my turn.
12:06 Kev's turn's high.
12:08 Come round this side.
12:09 Come round this side, quick, or we'll lose the picture.
12:11 That's it, we're doing well.
12:12 Yes, Donna, I'm looking forward to when you come in here as well.
12:14 It'll be fantastic. I really am looking forward to that, too.
12:17 Kev, great to see you with us tonight as well.
12:19 Hope you're both well.
12:20 Your time will come, Donna.
12:21 Very soon, it's not far away.
12:24 Trust me, you'll be here and people will be watching you.
12:28 Claire said to me tonight, actually, Mrs Hill, she said it seemed quite surreal to be sitting here.
12:34 But again, it's here, we're live.
12:36 It's happening. We are in the sleepy little town of Ilshelton, where it's all happening.
12:41 And hopefully everybody's learning something.
12:43 So now we're cross-checking and going the opposite way,
12:45 so I'm just making sure that everything's on the right level.
12:49 I'll go through them with a pair of scissors just to soften it out even more and do a few more little tricks.
12:55 David Beckwith.
12:56 David Beckwith, great to see you, big man.
12:58 Hope you're okay tonight.
12:59 I was guessing you'd been out with the running club tonight,
13:03 which we can't really call the name of what it's called,
13:05 but I'm sure you've had a good night with Ross.
13:07 I'm sure Ross will be on at some point.
13:09 I can start to see the shape now. It's starting to appear.
13:12 Right, so now we'll go to a pair of scissors.
13:15 It won't go on, Scotty.
13:17 Who said that? David Beckwith. Excellent.
13:20 Thanks, David. I appreciate it. He always says that.
13:22 Right, so now if you look at the length of what we've got on the top, you can really see it's quite choppy.
13:26 See all the movement in it.
13:27 So what we're going to do now is just point a bit out with the scissors.
13:31 Just randomly slice a bit out, so we'll open and close the blades just through the top.
13:37 So when I say open and close the blades, it's just really a motion of opening and closing the hair into the blade,
13:44 which again just gives us a bit more of a choppier look.
13:46 Again, this adds to not just the look, but it also adds to the movement in the haircut as well, which I think is really important.
13:53 Hair is a living thing. You've got to give it a real purpose.
13:57 Just try and control it to where it should be going.
14:00 Right, now we'll twist cut it just to give it a little bit more body through the top as well.
14:04 So just randomly just grab a piece and then what I'll do is use the blade, the shank of the blade,
14:11 slice into that just very lightly, so I'm going to take it all off, otherwise there'll be no hair.
14:16 The idea is by doing this, it gives it a bit more body through the top, so at the end of the haircut,
14:22 in six weeks' time, Claire's hair will still have body and lift, as opposed to it being flatter if it was not done.
14:30 Again, this is very big in the 60s, just gives it another little effect through the top,
14:35 because again, it's the little tricks that make the difference.
14:37 So just rotate the side, just through the top part, this is where the money is, through the top.
14:44 That's why it gives you the look. Nobody gets to see the shape.
14:47 Right, so just to have a slight recap then, we've got now the cut, which we've cut with a razor blade.
14:56 We've put movement into the hair. What we're going to do now is we're going to blow dry in a moment,
15:01 which means we'll disappear in a moment, so don't worry, we are not having a technical problem,
15:09 but we'll disappear in a minute. What we'll do is we'll apply product, I'll do the blow dry,
15:13 we'll then come into the blow dry afterwards, which then you should reappear with us,
15:19 you should reappear with us then with the Mook styling stick, which then we'll do the finishing off.
15:25 So when we do that, you'll see it then come into the bottom of the haircut,
15:28 flip that out with the straighteners, you'll see me then bring this round on the sides with the styling stick
15:33 and then work a bit of magic through the fringe. You can see where we've gone with it.
15:37 We're actually going to blow dry now with, as I say, our next product into the range,
15:42 which is going to be the Filthy Mook styling product.
15:45 Now a lot of people tend to think that using paste, you cannot use it on hair when it's wet.
15:51 These products are humidity resistant, as long as you've got enough to cover both hands.
15:57 Now this does one of two things. The first thing is it'll coat the hair and give me a little bit more shine
16:03 and a little bit more movement. Also, whilst I apply this product, I can actually see what my cut's doing.
16:08 Look, I'm starting to get a bit of a feel for where it's going.
16:12 So by putting the product in, I can actually see it.
16:15 So what you do then is immediately apply a dryer and then you can start to see where you're going with the cut.
16:21 So remember, this is a choppy look with a soft feel in the back.
16:25 So we're going to disappear now and then we'll come back in the next 10-15 minutes.
16:31 Enjoy putting your children to bed, enjoy watching the end of Coronation Street, having your dinner, whatever you're doing.
16:36 In the meantime, from Claire, Chloe and myself from Scott Bailey Hairdressing, lots of love. Ciao!
16:42 And we'll see you soon. Bye bye for now.