Yigal Mesika - Electric Touch
Category
🦄
CreativityTranscript
00:00 In this video I'll be showing how to create a high voltage electron generator that fits
00:14 neatly inside of a glasses case.
00:18 This device pulls in electrons from the surroundings through one wire and feeds them out of another
00:23 so that anything touching the second wire is electrified with a static charge.
00:29 Using a simple harness to attach this device to my leg and to the bottom of my foot it
00:33 is able to pull electrons from the ground I'm standing on and use them to build a static
00:37 charge in my own body.
00:39 This means that at the flip of a switch I gain the ability to shock any object I touch.
00:54 Sand and other fine particles turn into a dust storm when brought in close proximity
00:58 to the high voltage charge.
01:05 A static discharge from this device creates a strong enough electric field that it can
01:09 even disrupt electronics from a distance.
01:14 Direct contact is powerful enough to potentially cause damage to circuitry or even corrupt
01:18 data.
01:20 I had to be very careful during this video not to touch my camera while I still carried
01:24 a static charge.
01:28 The electronics used in this project are really in a very simple configuration all built around
01:33 powering a negative ion generator.
01:36 This is the component of our project that is capable of producing the high voltage electrical
01:41 charge that we end up with.
01:43 It does so by pushing electrons out through the wire that currently has the prongs attached.
01:48 We need a way to make this run off of a 9 volt battery, but it is not as simple as just
01:53 plugging it in.
01:54 The ion generator is made to run off of alternating current like what is found in the wall sockets
01:59 of a house, but a battery only provides direct current like what is found in a car.
02:04 To allow the battery to provide this different form of electricity we will be using an automotive
02:09 power converter.
02:13 The converter is first taken apart so that we can see the internal components.
02:20 The circuit board should be easily removed simply by extracting one or two screws.
02:26 The power inputs to this converter should be fairly obvious and take the form of a red
02:30 and black wire attached to a spring.
02:33 We will be installing our on/off switch in the middle of the red wire between the battery
02:37 and the converter, but to do that we will first need to trim the spring off of the end
02:42 of both wires.
02:43 We will be needing to use a soldering iron shortly, so now would be a good time to get
02:47 one warmed up.
02:49 On one side of our on/off switch we will be attaching the red wire that leads into our
02:53 power converter.
02:55 On the other side we will be attaching the red wire that comes off of a 9 volt battery
02:59 harness.
03:00 The red wire coming off of both of these devices must have a portion stripped off of the end
03:05 so that we have room to solder onto the switch.
03:08 The type of switch we will be using for this project is an on/off sliding switch, but any
03:12 type of on/off switch will work.
03:15 Before going any further we need to cut a short piece of heat shrink tubing and place
03:19 it over the end of each red wire.
03:22 The stripped portion of the wires can now be twisted around each terminal of the switch
03:26 and soldered into place.
03:37 Once the solder cools the heat shrink tubing can be pushed up over the connections and
03:41 using a lighter we can shrink it down to insulate them permanently.
03:51 Changing our focus now onto the black wires, we can simply connect the two in the middle
03:55 with a splice.
03:57 I however prefer to run the black wire directly into the power converter and to do that we
04:02 remove the old black wire that is coming off of the board.
04:05 To do this we press the soldering iron up against the connection point that the black
04:09 wire is currently making to the board.
04:11 The solder will quickly melt and the black wire will free itself.
04:15 To connect our wire from the harness we first will take a little extra solder and put it
04:19 on the old connection point on the board.
04:22 We then heat it to its melting point and press the new wire from the battery harness into
04:26 place.
04:31 The installation of the battery harness is now complete.
04:34 With the battery snapped into the harness we can confirm that the converter is working
04:38 properly by flipping the switch and looking for a red indicator light.
04:42 To avoid getting shocked during the rest of the assembly process it's a good idea to
04:46 once again remove the battery before continuing on.
04:51 With the power supply complete we can now finally move on to preparing the negative
04:55 ion generator to plug into it.
04:58 The end of the red wire is cut to remove the metal prongs and the plastic sheath is slid
05:02 off as well.
05:03 The black and white wire are also trimmed down slightly and the end of all three wires
05:08 are stripped.
05:12 The stripped sections of the white and black wire are each inserted into one of the output
05:16 terminals on the power converter.
05:19 A generous application of hot solder holds each wire in place.
05:24 The electronics for this project are now nearly fully assembled, all except for installing
05:29 a long ground wire to one of the converter's output terminals.
05:33 It can be quickly soldered into place right on top of either the white or black wire.
05:39 This ground wire should be long enough to reach from the middle of the user's leg all
05:43 the way down to the bottom of the foot.
05:46 This completes all the electronics for this project, so we can now make sure everything
05:50 is working properly by reconnecting the battery, turning on the power, and making sure that
05:55 a spark arcs between the ground wire and the red wire coming off of the ion generator.
06:03 With the electronics fully functional, we can now move on to installing them into a
06:07 protective glasses case.
06:09 We will need to make several small modifications to the glasses case for it to accommodate
06:14 our electronics.
06:15 The first will be to drill a hole for the wire coming off of our ion generator to extend
06:19 through.
06:21 We can find where the hole should be drilled by placing the ion generator into the glasses
06:25 case and sliding it all the way to one side.
06:29 A mark is then made in the case just slightly in front of where the red wire comes out of
06:33 the generator.
06:35 The hole drilled should be just barely large enough that the red wire can slide through
06:38 without getting pinched.
06:41 The next step will be to position where the on/off switch will be placed, and to do that
06:45 we will need to insert all the electronics into the glasses case approximately where
06:49 they're going to fit best in the end.
06:52 The switch should then be positioned somewhere along the wall of the case where there's
06:55 going to be the most room on the inside.
06:58 We once again mark the position, then remove all of the electronics and cut that section
07:03 out of the wall with a hacksaw blade.
07:13 We can now start fitting the electronics into their permanent positions, starting with the
07:17 electron generator by pushing its wire through the hole we previously drilled.
07:22 Right in front of that we insert the power converter, which is hot glued into place.
07:29 The switch is then inserted into the section we prepared for it in the side.
07:33 It can be hot glued into place, but you must be very careful not to get any glue into the
07:37 internal components or it may not function properly.
07:40 Our final step is to either drill a hole or use a file to cut a groove into the bottom
07:45 of our case for our black ground wire to extend out of.
07:50 Finally the battery is inserted and this device is good to go.
07:54 With the flick of a switch, electrons start flowing from the red wire.
07:58 A healthy arc should now be created between it and the ground wire when brought in close
08:02 proximity.
08:06 We can now begin work on the leg harness for this device.
08:11 On closer inspection, we can see that the harness's primary purpose is to bring the
08:15 red wire coming off of our device into good electrical contact with the side of the user's
08:20 leg.
08:21 The case full of our electronics is simply Velcroed to the outside of the sleeve for
08:25 easy removal and adjustment.
08:29 The plastic sheath for this harness can be cut out of the side of a one gallon bottle,
08:33 such as this gallon of windshield washer fluid.
08:37 With the bottle emptied and rinsed, we can move on to cutting a sheet of plastic out
08:41 of its side.
08:47 The plastic sheet is now fitted around the wearer's leg and the corners that overhang
08:51 are marked to be cut off.
08:56 Once the sheet has been cut along the lines, all the remaining corners are rounded off
09:00 so there are no more sharp points to jab into the wearer's leg.
09:05 The glasses case is then lined up on the back side of the sleeve and a mark is placed about
09:10 a half inch in front of the red wire.
09:12 A hole is drilled through this mark and the wire extends through it.
09:17 With the case lined up how we want it, we can now attach it to the sheet with two strips
09:21 of sticky side Velcro.
09:31 For a good electrical connection on the inside of the harness, we will be using a piece of
09:35 an aluminum can to make a better connection between the wire and the user's leg.
09:40 The strip of aluminum cut from a soda can must be sanded on both sides to remove both
09:44 paint and other buildup that might prevent a good electrical contact.
09:48 The aluminum is then taped to the inside of the harness with the end of the wire securely
09:53 underneath.
09:54 The large contact area will help the passage of electrons go unnoticed by the wearer.
09:58 With only a small contact, the wearer would be feeling an uncomfortable shock the entire
10:02 time the device is turned on.
10:05 We can now proceed to attach more sticky side Velcro to the leg harness, positioned in such
10:09 a way that it will be able to open and close.
10:15 We can now move on to creating the foot harness for this device, which is attached to the
10:18 end of our black ground wire and is composed of a piece of dual sided Velcro and another
10:23 piece of an aluminum can.
10:25 To start, we take a large strip of dual sided Velcro, which is usually found in the form
10:30 of cable ties, and cut both oddly shaped ends off.
10:35 Another sanded aluminum strip that was cut from the side of a soda can is taken and wrapped
10:39 entirely around the center of the Velcro strap.
10:42 A pair of scissors is used to cut a hole in the strap off to one side of the aluminum
10:46 strip.
10:47 This is what the ground wire will extend through.
10:51 The end of the ground wire is pulled over the top of the aluminum strap and pushed down
10:55 underneath it.
11:01 A piece of tape holds both the wire and the aluminum in place.
11:13 This project is now complete.
11:15 By attaching the harness to both the leg and the foot, the user is able to shock anything
11:20 within reach.
11:38 [silence]