Become a Partner
Become a Partner
  • 2 months ago
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Transcript
00:00My mother and I are both famous for making Zha Zhan Pasar.
00:28My mother's cooking was delicious.
00:30Everything she cooked was great.
00:33Not just delicious and clean, but also people were coming to buy.
00:40And with my mom, the point is, in a comparison between us, I am more famous than my mother.
01:28Indonesia is the world's largest island country.
01:45We have more than 17,000 islands.
01:49The most populous island in Indonesia is Java.
01:53And the city of Yogyakarta is the very soul of Java.
02:00Yogyakarta is the only region in Indonesia that's still ruled by a sultan.
02:07So the people of Yogyakarta have this very strong pride when it comes to the traditional
02:13culture.
02:14It's like a time capsule, because they still do what the ancestors did, especially when
02:26you talk about the street food, because the street food represents its people.
02:32The street food represents its culture.
02:37In Yogyakarta, the food is very local, very rootsy.
02:43Like gudeg, made of raised jackfruit, gado-gado, made from vegetables and peanut sauce, baso,
02:53the meatball, nasi goreng, the fried rice, and cassava noodles.
03:07And then there are sweet treats called jajan pasar.
03:12Jajan pasar refers to a variety of street food snacks, usually made from palm sugar,
03:19sticky rice, cassava, and coconut.
03:22There is one lady, Mbah Satinam, she's the master of jajan pasar.
03:30And she's been making it for more than 50 years.
03:35And what makes Mbah Satinam's jajan pasar great is that she uses a very classic recipe.
03:43And everything about her style is very precise, it's very detailed, it's chef-like.
03:48She even cuts with a string on her hands, so fast, like a ninja.
03:55And when you taste the Javanese sugar, my god, it is nicely caramelized, and you will
04:03taste the earthiness.
04:06Mbah Satinam's way of cooking, and even her joyful laugh.
04:11It's authentic, it's real, it's honest.
04:15When it comes to traditional food, Mbah Satinam is unbeatable.
04:33Mbah Satinam's way of cooking, and her joyful laugh.
05:03I get up at 12 a.m. to prepare my jajan pasar.
05:29Every night, my husband and daughter help me cook.
05:43My husband assists me in lighting up the fire.
05:50Sometimes I get annoyed with him when he gets up late.
05:56Because whenever we get up late for work, we will not be able to sell our snacks.
06:04When I'm sick, I can't go to work.
06:08At 5.30 a.m., my daughter gives me a ride on her motorbike.
06:23I am the main support of our home.
06:28I've been providing food for my husband, my children, and my grandchildren for a long time now.
06:39So that's how it's been.
06:41Everything comes from me.
06:50Jajan pasar means sweet treats in the market.
06:54And it's the oldest recorded street food in Indonesian history.
06:59It is dated back to the 8th century.
07:03Today, you have two kinds of jajan pasar.
07:08You have traditional Javanese, Yogyakarta-style jajan pasar, like the kinds made by Mbah Satinam.
07:15They are all the color of the earth.
07:18Brown, and green, and pale white.
07:23And then, you have the kind that isn't.
07:33You have new generations who make jajan pasar influenced by other cuisines.
07:39Like the Chinese style, or the Portuguese style, or the Dutch style.
07:42That is way more vibrant in terms of color, and in terms of variety.
08:06We make a variety of jajan pasar.
08:08There can be more than 200 items.
08:14But we keep updating it all the time, so jajan pasar can be served in almost any occasion.
08:25When it is being served in celebrations, we use bright colors.
08:33We also serve it in engagement ceremonies.
08:35To bond a couple together, we use glutinous rice.
08:41It is also served in sad ceremonies.
08:46We are developing more and more creative varieties of this snack for the future.
08:52Of course, the young people of Yogyakarta, they are adopting this modernity from other cities,
08:58and exploring the traditional food their own way.
09:02This is how the cooking process evolves.
09:33I was born in... well, I don't know what year.
09:40But, it's been very long, hasn't it?
09:47Back then, the houses were made with bamboo.
09:53There were many trees along the road.
09:56The streets were full of gravel. It was terrible.
10:05In those days, kids started school at the age of seven.
10:11I was able to finish up to the sixth grade. I did not pass after that.
10:19I cannot recall what year that was, but I started following my mother.
10:23Learn to sell first.
10:28At that time, I used to sell dishes with her.
10:33My mom used to make clean and delicious dishes.
10:39And she was famous for her food. She sold foods door to door.
10:45She carried it on her back, like this, on her back, using a shawl.
10:52So I started following her all the time.
10:56We went door to door, until the Zajan Pasar sold out.
11:02I just imitated my mom, you know.
11:06I was imitating her precisely.
11:08She taught me every single day.
11:12And it made me happy.
11:39In Yogyakarta, jackfruit is commonly used for cooking.
11:44It can be found everywhere.
11:48And the most popular jackfruit dish is gudeg.
12:02Gudeg is the symbol of Yogyakarta.
12:09On almost every corner, you will see gudeg salads.
12:14Nowhere in this entire planet, outside of Yogyakarta,
12:18has this very distinctive cooked jackfruit, braised with herbs and spices.
12:23And sometimes it is served with egg, chicken, and crispy ox.
12:44Can I have the gudeg?
12:49Thank you, ma'am.
12:53Do you cook everything by yourself?
12:55Yes.
12:56Because I'm a good cook.
12:58Yes, you're a good cook.
13:01I'm 100 years old.
13:03Oh, you're 100?
13:05Yes.
13:08I don't have teeth, ma'am.
13:09You don't have teeth?
13:13It's okay, ma'am. It's beautiful.
13:14Yes.
13:16Do you cook everything by yourself?
13:18Yes, I do.
13:19There's brambang, babang, suhar, salam, and palaho.
13:26Will there be any changes in the recipe once you continue?
13:29Will there be any changes in the spices?
13:30No, no.
13:33When you come to Yogyakarta, it is like a window to the past.
13:37The older women, especially,
13:38they embrace the recipes from the grandmothers and the mothers
13:41with their heart and soul.
13:44Using the same exact ingredients and the same method
13:47each and every day for many years.
13:50They don't mess with that kind of recipe.
13:53It's like a blasphemy to your culture if you are doing that.
14:07I first met my husband, Jumara,
14:09on the street when I stopped for a rest.
14:11But I ignored him then and kept selling Zhajan Pasar.
14:18He was on the west side of the ring road.
14:20I was on the east side of the ring road.
14:25He was a very nice man.
14:28He was a very nice man.
14:31He was a very nice man.
14:33He was on the east side of the ring road.
14:41Then,
14:44we talked to each other.
15:04So, when there were just two of us,
15:08we liked to banter.
15:13I just fell in love with her.
15:16She liked me and I liked her.
15:20So, three months later, we got married.
15:26Jumara started to help me.
15:28Since then, he got close to me,
15:34watching over me,
15:37and loved me.
15:43For me, she is the best just as she is.
15:47This is the way I am, she agreed.
15:49And that was it.
15:52He's not handsome.
15:54He was a very nice man.
15:56He's not handsome.
15:58He was average and I was also an average girl.
16:10But I really like him when he makes jokes.
16:27Kazava is a very strong root vegetable.
16:31And it's a very staple local crop in Java.
16:36Historically, people who cannot afford to buy the wheat flour
16:40or even white rice, they have to consume kazava.
16:44And they make kazava.
16:47Kazava is a very strong root vegetable.
16:51And it's a very staple local crop in Java.
16:54And they make kazava as a flour to make noodles.
16:58It's called miletek.
17:01And the miletek factory of Yogyakarta
17:03is the only place still making kazava noodles
17:06in this traditional way.
17:16My grandfather started this kazava noodle factory,
17:19which means that I am the third generation.
17:25Miletek noodles have become an icon for Yogyakarta.
17:31Because this kind of kazava noodles is not produced elsewhere.
17:38The process starts from the kazava flour.
17:50The ox.
17:53I named him Hercules.
18:01We steam the flour.
18:07Then we put it into the pressing machine.
18:18It presses down and forms the noodles.
18:23I am now indeed responsible
18:26for continuing and developing this business.
18:30Also how the production costs increase.
18:33Some people nowadays, they want new technologies,
18:36new methods for making foods,
18:38especially when they are business people.
18:42But if modern technology
18:44overshadows the traditional way of cooking
18:47in the next 10 or 20 or 30 years,
18:50it will affect the genuine, authentic quality
18:54of Yogyakarta food culture.
18:58People can taste, is it authentic or is it not?
19:01The palate, the sense cannot lie.
19:21Yogyakarta, Yogyakarta
19:26Yogyakarta, Yogyakarta
19:56Yogyakarta, Yogyakarta
20:10I was close to my mother.
20:12We cooked and sold zhajan pasar together.
20:15That was our routine.
20:20One day my mother and I were walking home from the market.
20:24Then we saw my father riding his bicycle with another woman.
20:32My mother and I were very upset.
20:38Then when my father scolded her, she confronted him.
20:43And then they got separated.
20:45It all happened in just one day.
20:48From time to time she sunk deeper and deeper in sorrow.
20:54She responded like that.
20:58Then she was taken to a hospital, but no illness was found.
21:05Mainly it was her disturbed mind.
21:07It was all up here.
21:09She died soon after.
21:18I mourned for a long time.
21:25We used to help each other.
21:33My mom was really kind to me.
21:40After my mother's death, I just couldn't work or sell anymore.
21:47Surely I was devastated.
22:04I was sad to lose my mother so quickly.
22:11I felt empty when I stayed at home for too long, and I wouldn't have money.
22:18My old house was terrible.
22:20It was made from bamboo weavings.
22:22The timbers were eaten by beetles.
22:27And because it was in bad condition, I bought timbers to fix it.
22:31So be it.
22:38When the house was restored, I decided to start selling Zazan Pasar.
22:47For my mom's sake.
22:49So she would feel good up there.
22:53In heaven.
23:07For how many days it all took place, I really didn't know.
23:18Back then, I was just selling a small amount of Zazan Pasar.
23:30My mother wasn't very well known.
23:33One day, an assistant to former President Harto came to my stall.
23:40The assistant said,
23:43Ma'am, Mr. Harto wants Zazan Pasar.
23:48After trying Zazan Pasar from back home,
23:50I couldn't get it.
23:52I couldn't get it.
23:54I couldn't get it.
23:56I couldn't get it.
23:58I couldn't get it.
24:00I couldn't get it.
24:03The former President of Indonesia, Mr. Harto,
24:06actually became her regular customer because it's so good.
24:10And everyone was asking,
24:12Wow, what is this Zazan Pasar?
24:15After that, she gained her popularity,
24:18which continues until this day.
24:21From 5 a.m., there are people willing to wait for one, two, or three hours
24:25just to try the Zazan Pasar made by Mbah Satinam.
24:33After that, more and more customers were coming to buy.
24:41And I used the money to buy timber, roofing, and cement.
24:47I fixed the house.
24:51Later on, I even got us a kitchen in our house.
25:03My Zazan Pasar became famous.
25:11Now, I support 10 family members with my Zazan Pasar.
25:25I feel nothing but happiness.
25:28The sales are very good.
25:33Indonesia's 17,000 islands means that it has so many culinary delicacies.
25:46But Yogyakarta has a very unique role in Indonesia.
25:52It's like a passageway to see into the whole millennia back.
25:56Mostly, street food vendors, their age is 70s, 80s, 90s.
26:02Even Mbah Halim from Yogyakarta, her age is 100 years.
26:25Of course, there will be a change in how the next generation of culinary heroes explore cooking.
26:37And I don't know how long it's going to be before food culture changes as a whole in Yogyakarta.
26:47But currently, we have many of these elderly women who still serve fantastically cooked traditional foods.
26:55Made to perfection.
27:13When you eat Zazan Pasar made by Mbah Satinam, it's so comforting.
27:22And you feel nostalgic also.
27:25So it's like you're eating the full sweetness of history in your mouth.
27:43One day, a Chinese woman and a Javanese woman had such a fierce quarrel over who was first in line for my Zazan Pasar.
27:52I was trembling in fear.
27:56I now provide numbers for my customers to avoid fights.
28:03And my Zazan Pasar always sells out.
28:12I will always sell Zazan Pasar.
28:16Someday, I will train my daughter to replace me.
28:26But until then, I can't stop.
28:32I won't stop.
28:37Well, maybe I'll stop.
28:40When I'm very, very old.
28:55My heart is full of happiness.
29:00Playing, chasing, chasing.
29:07I'm happy.
29:11My heart is full of happiness.
29:15Playing, chasing, chasing.
29:19I'm happy.
29:24Playing, chasing, chasing.
29:31Playing, chasing, chasing.
29:37When I'm very, very old.
29:40My heart is full of happiness.
29:44She always laughs.
29:51I'm happy.
29:55My heart is full of happiness.
29:58Playing, chasing, chasing.
30:07Playing, chasing, chasing.
30:14Playing, chasing, chasing.
30:20I'm happy.
30:24Playing, chasing, chasing.
30:28She always laughs.
30:43I'm happy.