新闻报报看 | 起源自西方国家的西装,最早可以追溯到17世纪,是欧洲宫廷精致的穿著方式。《新闻报报看》团队从采访本地资深西装裁缝前辈的口述历史中整理出,英国殖民马来亚后,本地才有了订制西装裁缝行业,更因为英国人的穿著带动本地人穿西装的习惯,一直流传到今时今日,已经有上百年历史。(主播:蔡心慧、黄宇恒)
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00:00Before you watch the video, let me remind you that there is more content on the R.E.D.I.M.E website.
00:30After the British colonized Malaysia, there was a custom-made suit and tailoring industry.
00:37Because of the British clothing, local people also wore suits.
00:42It has been passed down to this day and has a history of more than a hundred years.
00:47The third-generation tailor, Kwang Jin-ryeo, who is the third-generation tailor in Yang Fu Shop,
00:52has 110 years of experience in Kuala Lumpur.
00:56At that time in Kuala Lumpur, a lot of British officials came to Malaysia and needed to customize their suits.
01:02They would go to the mall to pick up orders and hand them over to the Chinese tailor.
01:07Only then did the local businessmen gradually learn the technology of customizing suits.
01:11After World War II, many local people would customize a suit and take it to the UK before going to study in the UK.
01:19From then on, the culture of local people wearing suits began.
01:23This is the first episode of the 100-year suit series.
01:26Let's listen to the story of this 100-year-old Yang Fu Shop with the camera of reporters Zhang Wenjie and Liu Shengming.
01:45Before independence, local Indians and Malays were teachers.
01:50They went to the UK for training.
01:52When they went to study in the UK, they wore suits when they went out.
01:56The weather was cool and it was more comfortable to wear a suit.
02:00The first respect for the local people was the second respect for the Indians.
02:02If you wore a suit, people would respect you.
02:07The 110-year-old Yang Fu Shop on Sudan Street in Kuala Lumpur is a living history of the local customizing suit industry.
02:13It was opened by the grandfather in 1915 and passed down to the third-generation master, Master Kwang Jin-ryeo.
02:17Although it is now the Chinese New Year,
02:19he still works hard to tailor the suit for the customers.
02:22He uses hand-sewn fabric to sew the suit.
02:24He has been doing this for more than half a century.
02:27Every needle and thread is a legacy from the British colonial era.
02:31They are first-class tailors.
02:33They always do a good job.
02:35I therefore have no hesitation in recommending them to anyone who really needs a good tailor.
02:41The letter from the former tailor, Duan Chan Xiu, is one of the signs of the 100-year-old Yang Fu Shop.
02:46This is an old photo of the former prime minister, Duan La Sa, wearing a custom-made suit in his shop.
02:50It is a highlight in the history of the meeting between Beijing and Mao Zedong, the former leader of the Chinese Communist Party.
02:55Hand-sewn craftsmanship and reputation are built on reputation.
02:57The service attitude of the tailor is also the key to the success of Duan La Sa.
03:02Every time I help him make clothes, I say,
03:04Duan, you are getting thinner and thinner.
03:07At that time, we didn't know he was sick.
03:10You know what he loves, polygons and colors.
03:13On Wednesday, he came back from London.
03:15On Friday, he went to Paris.
03:17But on Wednesday, he stayed in London for the rest of his life.
03:21Later, he came back to pick up the three suits.
03:25When Master Kwong talked about the old customer, Duan La Sa, he was reluctant.
03:28After all, a tailor is a profession that serves customers up close.
03:32Not only do you have to be familiar with the appearance, but you also have to understand the customer's heart.
03:35The craftsmanship and thought are all delicate.
03:39Although the 100-year-old shop will no longer be accepted by anyone after the third generation,
03:42the West Lantern Festival is just around the corner.
03:44But Master Kwong doesn't think the industry has come to an end.
03:47Young people have computers.
03:50How do we do it? How do we fit?
03:53They can see it on the computer and print the information out.
03:56Just go to the tailor and do it like this.
03:58Give us the dolls to see.
04:00When the sun sets, the sun will rise again tomorrow.
04:04The most important thing is that someone wants to wear it and someone loves to do it.
04:13The 100-year-old tailor shop has witnessed the history of the local customized suit industry.
04:17Until the 1980s and 1990s,
04:20because the clothes purchased were not as popular as they are now,
04:23some senior tailors told the newspaper that
04:26the tailor shops of that era were full of employees and customers.
04:30Even in some cities, such as Piliyibao,
04:33there was also a tailor gathering.
04:35The prospects were very good at that time.
04:37However, as the city clothes began to become popular,
04:40in addition to the financial crisis in 1997,
04:43the orders for customized suits and tailors were hit hard.
04:47Many tailors could not think of a new way out,
04:49so they had to leave the market.
04:51The local tailoring industry was once in a slump.
04:56One day in 2004,
04:58because the market was getting worse and worse,
05:01I didn't have much work to do.
05:04One day, I sat in the shop and fell asleep.
05:08A customer knocked on the door and came in.
05:11I didn't even know he was there.
05:13That was when I started to reflect on myself.
05:16Why did I fall asleep when I sat in this industry?
05:19This business was abnormal.
05:21In Piliyibao,
05:22Li Zhiqiang, the former president of the Federation of Horseshoe Weaving,
05:25who had been working for more than 30 years,
05:27talked about how the local customized suit industry
05:29had come to a point where it had to be transformed.
05:31But how to do it right did not have the potential to be referred to.
05:34So he took the opportunity
05:36to invest in his own career and career.
05:39From a traditional tailor shop in Piliyibao,
05:42he transformed it into a fashionable tailor shop
05:45with exquisite decorations, high-quality fabrics,
05:47and high-end customers.
05:49He had to gain customers' trust from the start.
05:52The first thing the customer saw was that I had entered the wrong shop.
05:55The second thing I wanted to give them was that
05:57the shop's taste was very suitable for me.
05:59Next, I had to start to understand the customer.
06:03Customers who want to customize a high-end suit
06:07often go to Singapore,
06:10the UK,
06:12Hong Kong and Shanghai.
06:14Why don't we keep these customers in Malaysia
06:21to customize this suit locally?
06:23After analyzing this,
06:25my own development direction became clearer.
06:31Of course, it's not only the high-end market that has business opportunities.
06:35This tailor shop was established in the middle of the century
06:38and passed down to the third generation of tailors.
06:4027-year-old tailor, Lian Jun Sen,
06:42also had the chance to see the customized suit
06:45continue to root in the tailor shop.
06:47In the past, tailors only made clothes and trousers.
06:51Now, we do different marketing.
06:53We have to explain what the fabric is made of,
06:55what occasion it is suitable for, and how to match it.
06:57Many customers come here to be consultants.
07:00Since I went online to do media,
07:02foreign customers have come here to customize.
07:05Customers from China and Australia have also come here.
07:09The first time I came here was to make clothes.
07:11I picked them up when I came back.
07:13This tailor shop can be used as a travel shop.
07:15It's just that we have to coordinate with the time.
07:17The local local creator, Zhuo Yan Hao, once said
07:20that in the traditional industry,
07:21as long as you use story marketing to introduce design
07:23and connect with local people,
07:24after combining the three,
07:25and rediscovering the local DNA,
07:27you can definitely lead and develop the product.
07:30As a young generation, Lian Jun Sen said
07:32that his own passion is not enough.
07:34Fortunately, the shop also has the technical support
07:36of the Zishan tailor team,
07:37which gives him more confidence to stand at the forefront
07:39and do well in marketing,
07:40so that customers will be willing to come a long way
07:42to collect a suit of old craftsmanship.
07:44This is an old tailor shop.
07:46The shop doesn't need to move to another place.
07:48This place can attract foreign customers.
07:51We will continue to run this industry in a new way.
07:54We want to become a professional team.
07:56This industry is easy to run.
07:57It depends on how you run it.