CRAtW 2024 episode 5
Category
🏖
TravelTranscript
00:00Let's do it, let's do it, let's do it!
00:27Come on, Mary.
00:28Where's the market?
00:29There.
00:30Yes, Fred.
00:31OK, let's go.
00:32This is anyone's, I think.
00:33Oh, my God, we're really racing now.
00:35Look, he's behind us.
00:36Geoff and Freddie.
00:37Come on, Fred.
00:38I've got a wedgie, my mouth is dry.
00:39There's not as much oxygen up here.
00:40Where's the market?
00:41Come on.
00:42Can you see it?
00:43Fred, place it, mate.
00:44Oh, shit.
00:45Oh, my cuffs.
00:46Come on, Mary.
00:47I feel sick.
00:48Oh, shit.
00:49Oh, shit.
00:50Oh, shit.
00:51Oh, shit.
00:52Oh, shit.
00:53Oh, shit.
00:54Oh, shit.
00:55Oh, shit.
00:56Bloomberg News.
01:06The Rio Parana, South America's second longest river.
01:10And sitting on the banks of its Argentinean delta is the city of Tigre.
01:15Here, nestled among the 8,400 square mile maze of subtropical waterways,
01:24the fourth checkpoint.
01:25Isn't it weird to see everyone in puffer jackets?
01:28We've been so hot for weeks.
01:31And the starting point for the penultimate leg of the race
01:35to southern Chile.
01:37But first, a chance for the teams to compare positions.
01:41Congratulations, guys.
01:44How does it feel to come first?
01:46It felt great.
01:48Not going to lie.
01:49What you've yet to experience is the pressure
01:52that being first comes.
01:54It's just a different mentality.
01:56Having set the pace in earlier legs,
01:59Jeff and Freddie are almost 11 hours behind.
02:01And for the first time, Scott and Sam are race leaders.
02:05And with more than 4,500 kilometers
02:08still to run before the finish line,
02:10budgets are coming under increasing pressure.
02:13We were quick, but it cost us.
02:15And the ferry was $200.
02:17$200?
02:19US dollars.
02:19For a three-hour ferry.
02:21We was going to get on the same ferry as Sam and Scott,
02:23but I lost my passport.
02:27The leg was really disappointing.
02:29It was a really tough one.
02:30And I left it on the bus, and we had to leave the job.
02:33Beautiful wine country.
02:34It was amazing.
02:35It was quite crushing.
02:37I was ready to just pack it in there and then.
02:39So we had a great time.
02:41Wow.
02:42We just have to suck it up and try and bounce back.
02:44I can assure you it's time to race.
02:53Morning.
02:54Hi.
02:55Morning.
02:58Scott and Sam are first to learn their next destination.
03:01Your fifth checkpoint is Tilcara.
03:05OK?
03:06Where is that?
03:07I don't know.
03:10Bye.
03:11Fast walking?
03:12Fast walk.
03:13Go.
03:14Pressure's on to keep this up now for another two legs
03:16so that we can win it.
03:18To Tigre, please.
03:19Hola.
03:20Imagine you're selling our house, get them one of these.
03:23You're going off grid.
03:24It's quite kind of romantic.
03:26Imagine being the postman.
03:29Why do you always think logistically?
03:33Gracias.
03:34Gracias.
03:35Hola.
03:36We're looking for a place called Tilcara.
03:39Is it in Argentina?
03:40Around here.
03:41Uy.
03:42So near, um.
03:43Yeah.
03:44Yeah.
03:45Yeah.
03:46Yeah.
03:47Yeah.
03:48So near, um, San Salvador de Juju.
03:52Juju.
03:53Juju.
03:541,800 kilometres away in the Jujuy province, Tilcara,
04:02one of the oldest inhabited towns in Argentina.
04:05Nestled in the dramatic Quebrada de Umahuaca,
04:09known as the Rainbow Valley,
04:11in the far north of the country.
04:14A region defined by its diverse landscapes,
04:17colonial cities and cultural influences
04:20drawn from its European,
04:22Latin American and indigenous populations.
04:26To reach the checkpoint,
04:28teams could head across central Argentina,
04:31passing through the major city of Córdoba,
04:34making use of its many transport options.
04:37Or travel directly north,
04:39tracing the banks of the mighty Paraná River
04:42through lesser explored rural Argentina
04:45before cutting deeper into the north-west corner.
04:48I am keen to save money on this leg.
04:51It's scaring me how little money we have.
04:54We could go to Córdoba.
04:56Might be good transport links.
04:58Well, the central route is well-travelled,
05:00meaning that you might get higher prices.
05:02So I think we're going to go directly north.
05:04Less travelled, lower prices.
05:06So we're seeing parts of Argentina
05:08that you wouldn't necessarily see if you'd gone holiday.
05:10So it's a bit like when we did the first leg,
05:12we went inland and we didn't go across the coast
05:14to do something different.
05:15And it worked out well.
05:16OK, we go up to Corrientes and across.
05:18Yeah.
05:19Come on, then.
05:20I'm still worried that we did spend a lot on the ferry
05:22to get here, that we just need to...
05:24Maybe this leg, be a bit safe.
05:26Yes.
05:28Hola.
05:29We need to get to...
05:31Corrientes.
05:32Sí.
05:33Can we get on a train?
05:34A Corrientes no.
05:36Dentro de Buenos Aires.
05:38Gracias.
05:39Hola.
05:40Two tickets to Buenos Aires.
05:42Sí.
05:44I hope we've done the right thing.
05:46Gracias.
05:47Adios.
05:48You've got to go back to Buenos Aires.
05:50And then we'll have all the options.
05:52Protecting their budget,
05:54they plan to head in the direction of Corrientes.
05:56But first,
05:58unable to find direct transport north,
06:00they head back on themselves
06:02to the most visited city in South America,
06:04home to 30% of Argentina's population.
06:08I think this is our station.
06:10We can't just be complacent
06:13We can't just be complacent
06:15that we are in first place.
06:17Let's keep it up.
06:19I think Sam is way more competitive than me.
06:21Right, let's find the bus station.
06:23He's like, we need to win, we need to win.
06:25Even second.
06:27Oh, you did well, you were second.
06:29That's not first though, is it?
06:31You're still a runner up.
06:33So we just need to ask for the quickest.
06:35If we've had a great experience, I'll take it.
06:37As long as at the finish line, we're first.
06:39We need to get to Corrientes.
06:41Rapido.
06:42Ah, okay.
06:44Tomorrow morning.
06:46That's a long one.
06:48No other quickest?
06:50The best of the best?
06:52The couple settle in for a four and a half hour wait.
06:56I'm annoyed, frustrated.
06:58Every moment that passes,
07:00someone's catching up on us.
07:04So we're staying in Argentina?
07:06Fantastic.
07:08I'm glad that we get to stay a bit longer.
07:10Me and Jeremy are second to leave the checkpoint.
07:12So we are here,
07:14and we've got to get up here to Tilcara.
07:16So Cordoba,
07:18it seems to be in the middle.
07:20Direct, big city, more connection.
07:22Yeah, so you want to kind of go there.
07:24Okay.
07:26Two winemakers assistants
07:28are required in Cordoba.
07:30Well paid work,
07:32overnight stay, dinner included.
07:34And I'm sure we'll get a couple of glasses of wine thrown in.
07:36Okay.
07:38It was a really good experience on the previous leg.
07:40We can slow down a bit.
07:42I think a vineyard would be really beautiful.
07:44We need some time for us,
07:46each leg, because otherwise it's too much.
07:48I want to be competitive,
07:50I want to win of course,
07:52but I want to enjoy myself with my wife.
07:54I see a new culture, this is amazing.
07:56My family has a vineyard too,
07:58so I'm quite curious to do this with another family,
08:00but in Argentina.
08:02This kind of rice is something you do one time in your life.
08:04The old woman was good with her feet,
08:06Oh yeah, the grapes.
08:08You don't want to be stepping on any grapes
08:10with your athlete's foot, Jeremy.
08:12We got a plan?
08:14I think so.
08:16Taking a route through central Argentina,
08:18Kelly and Jeremy have their sights
08:20set on the Cordoba wine region.
08:22I think we've got to go to
08:24Buenos Aires, and then we're going to get a bus.
08:26Where are we going?
08:28There.
08:30It's miles away.
08:32Third to depart,
08:35Kola and Mary Ellen
08:37determined to put their previous
08:39mishaps behind them.
08:41I just want us to have a better leg.
08:43Last leg was really, really tough
08:45and we didn't actually get to experience much.
08:47We've only got two more legs
08:49so we're just going to
08:51have the best time.
08:53Gaucho apprentices wanted.
08:55Gauchos are rich in
08:57Argentinian history, so
08:59going up to the ranch, which is far north,
09:01one, we're covering a lot of distance,
09:03two, we get to be around animals,
09:05the job is well paid,
09:07we get free accommodation.
09:09Yeah, let's do that. If we need money,
09:11desperately need money.
09:13Okay, Esquina it is.
09:15Hopefully we can get there by tomorrow.
09:17Okay, can you promise me this leg you're going to embrace
09:19a little bit more of nature?
09:21I'm more of a city boy, I like the hum of a city.
09:23Yeah, but come on, that's exactly what we need.
09:25Hoping to make the most of rural
09:27Argentina, the cousins plan to
09:29head into Gaucho country
09:32for a much needed budget boost.
09:34We have not got time to lose.
09:36We want to leave here tonight,
09:38we don't want to pay for accommodation.
09:40Gagging to get back in the race now.
09:42How are we going to get out of here?
09:44There are night buses from this station.
09:46Do you know if there's any buses tonight
09:48to Esquina?
09:50No. There's no direct bus
09:52to Esquina, it's impossible.
09:54Maybe, I think tomorrow.
09:56Oh, stay night here?
09:58Tomorrow.
10:01Can you help see if
10:03there's cheap accommodation?
10:05Mary, I'm going to go enquire about other stuff.
10:07Because I just feel like there might be
10:09onward travel to be done.
10:11Hola, sorry,
10:13do you know how to get to
10:15Esquina? Can you check?
10:17Even hostel?
10:19Maybe Airbnb?
10:21El Talal.
10:23Transport from El Talal.
10:25Wicked. Thank you.
10:27What are you checking, Conor?
10:29There's buses tonight from El Talal.
10:31Really? Yeah.
10:33Hola, that says Talal.
10:35Alright, Mary's getting in.
10:37Do you go Talal?
10:39Muchas gracias.
10:43Is he on a speed limit
10:45here or what?
10:47The final team to leave the checkpoint.
10:49We are in a race.
10:51Jeff and Freddy, almost 11 hours
10:53behind the race leaders.
10:55I don't want to be in a hotel tonight.
10:58If we can get on a night bus
11:00tonight out of here to Córdoba,
11:02we're happy.
11:04Yeah, but you're like speed walking
11:06like not normal speed walking.
11:08We're under pressure today. If we have to stay in a hotel
11:10will you be pissed off? Yeah.
11:12But approaching midnight, transport
11:14options out of Tigre are fading
11:16fast. That's the train.
11:18That is a train right there.
11:20Run in there and I'll shout at you if I see
11:22a bus coming. So maybe this train
11:24does go to somewhere we need.
11:26Map.
11:28Córdoba.
11:30That's the place, isn't it?
11:34Fred, what have you found?
11:36I love making him run.
11:38This is interesting because it says long distance
11:40so there's trains that go for long distances.
11:42Are you serious?
11:46It was just open.
11:48I was just in there.
11:52This could be bad.
11:55I'm making a move. This is good.
11:57Arriving at El Talar.
11:59Hola.
12:01Esquina. Stress.
12:03Stress.
12:05Kola and Mary Ellen make their
12:07escape on the last bus of the
12:09day to Esquina. Did I ever think
12:11we were going to leave today? In all honesty,
12:13no.
12:15I thought we would end up sleeping on the benches.
12:17Kola really stepped up
12:19in trying to get us to Talar. He really
12:21kind of was proactive in asking for
12:24help. I was prepared to possibly stay in Tigray.
12:30You think El Talar is the best bus
12:32garage for Córdoba? Yes.
12:34And you think buses
12:36leave at this time?
12:38I'm mad.
12:42Really appreciate it.
12:44Fred, come. Let's get up there so we can get a ticket.
12:48Bus going. Quick.
12:50Shit.
12:54Can you feel that? That motion?
12:56That is a bus
12:58moving towards Córdoba
13:00on night one.
13:02Is that or is that not exactly
13:04what we wanted to do? Yeah.
13:06No, it is.
13:18Freddy always sleeps for about 18
13:20hours on every bus.
13:24All teams
13:26have travelled through the night.
13:28As Jeff and Freddy
13:30approach busy transport hub Córdoba,
13:32Look at all
13:34the options. Kelly and Jeremy
13:36are already there.
13:38Villa Giardino. Catching a
13:40connection to the wine region.
13:42We've absolutely smashed it.
13:44940 kilometres
13:46northeast. I feel
13:48tired. This bus is
13:50what you might call a bone rattler.
13:52Having taken the road less travelled.
13:54Did you sleep well? No.
13:56Scott and Sam
13:58are arriving in the small town
14:00of Empedrado.
14:02Wow.
14:04I feel
14:06we're the only tourists that have ever been here.
14:14I feel like we've made such a good start.
14:16Definitely in the more
14:18rural part of Argentina now.
14:21It's pretty stunning.
14:23270 kilometres
14:25south, Cola and
14:27Mary Ellen have arrived in Esquina.
14:31Come on, you lazy
14:33cows. I'm coming,
14:35I'm coming.
14:37Lush, fertile marshes
14:39and lagoons on the Paraná riverbank
14:41breathe life into the ranches
14:43nearby, where the traditional
14:45way of life of the Argentinian Gaucho
14:47is alive and strong.
14:50Have you got many horses?
14:52Many horses, like 80 horses.
14:54I'm so excited.
14:56No, but when in Argentina, huh?
14:58Okay. Well, I'm not looking forward
15:00to horse riding, that's dangerous. I've never done it before.
15:02Klaus
15:04is a third generation descendant
15:06of livestock breeders that have
15:08been working their land since 1920.
15:12God, this looks like heaven.
15:14It's something out of the movies,
15:16honestly.
15:18We'll work hard today, eh?
15:20Yes. You will be tired at the end of the day.
15:22Now we are preparing
15:24food for the pigs.
15:26In exchange for a night's bed and
15:28board, the cousins are mucking in.
15:30More, more, more. Both hands.
15:32They are hungry.
15:36Hey.
15:40Come on, both. Por favor.
15:42Come inside. Come on, Cola.
15:44We have to go inside, eh?
15:47Go on, Cola.
15:49Come on.
15:51I know Cola's scared when he gets
15:53a little bit quiet.
15:55And it's just because he hasn't done it before,
15:57so he doesn't know what to expect, you know,
15:59going into the unknown, and that is a place he fears.
16:01Perfect.
16:07Oh my God, they're so greedy.
16:09Thank you, guys.
16:11Now we'll go
16:13and work with the sheep.
16:15You have to come with the sheep,
16:17go inside this little corner,
16:19and then you have to catch it.
16:21Catch a sheep?
16:23Okay.
16:33Catch one.
16:35Very strong, eh?
16:37And bring it here.
16:39Come on. Very good.
16:41Honey, we're just trying to give you a nice little
16:44Yes, that's correct.
16:46Cola, you do it.
16:48I'll hold the legs.
17:00It's actually really satisfying.
17:02It's been a while since we've done things
17:04other than partying.
17:06Yeah, this is completely different.
17:08A million miles from my normal life.
17:10God, how can you cut with confidence?
17:13Sheep can be, you know, kicky.
17:15I've seen a change
17:17in colour.
17:19I feel so proud of you
17:21for not being as scared as I thought you'd be.
17:23Yeah, you've done so well.
17:25That's great.
17:27I was actually prepared to laugh at you a little bit, but no.
17:29Maybe it's the Irish in us.
17:31We're always meant to be connected to agriculture.
17:35The objective for this leg
17:37is to make up ground
17:39because it's a penultimate leg.
17:41The strategy is to
17:43find a job that gives accommodation
17:45and then spend another
17:47night on a bus to a checkpoint.
17:49When we've done that, we've done really well.
17:51Jeff and Freddie are pushing ahead
17:53towards the town of San Jose
17:55de las Salinas.
17:57I thought we were going to start ascending
17:59to a bit of height, but we haven't yet.
18:01It's very countryside.
18:03I like to be in the city.
18:05We used to live in the countryside.
18:07Did you not like it?
18:10Where I live now is alright,
18:12but when I'm older, I'd like to live
18:14right in the middle of central London.
18:18I love you living with me,
18:20but I think that you living with me
18:22is counterproductive.
18:24What are you learning off of me?
18:26A lot.
18:28Anything you're going to learn from me,
18:30you've learned.
18:32Which, by the way, I'm not sure I've seen
18:34loads of evidence.
18:36I think everything else for you
18:38is out there.
18:40That's where all the lessons are for you now.
18:42We're going in different directions, you and I.
18:44If you want to be in the middle of something,
18:46I want to be out of it.
18:48I want nice walks, peace and quiet.
18:50I'll be moving to the countryside again.
18:52Or the seaside.
18:54I could do seaside.
18:56It wouldn't be busy seaside, though.
18:58If it's got a pier.
19:00Yeah, I don't want a pier.
19:03Oh, look at the views!
19:05Oh my God, it reminds me of Italy so much.
19:07So it's similar to this.
19:09It's like dreamy.
19:11It's lovely.
19:15Just 70 kilometres ahead,
19:17Kelly and Jeremy have arrived to work
19:19in Villa Giardino.
19:21One of Argentina's smaller
19:23and lesser-known wine regions,
19:25Córdoba has seen a recent renaissance.
19:27Welcome to Nevula.
19:32With high-altitude plantations
19:34attracting a new generation
19:36of winemakers like Sean.
19:38So all of this is yours?
19:40Yes.
19:42We inherited the land with my sisters.
19:44Jeremy, this would be your dream in Italy
19:46to create something like this, wouldn't it?
19:48It's a good inspiration.
19:50I'm really proud of being Italian.
19:52My family comes from a small town.
19:54The name is Arpino.
19:56And my family has been here
19:58for more than 20 generations.
20:00I think I've got so much energy
20:02when I'm in a place like this.
20:04We replanted some of the plants
20:06and now we have to tutor them.
20:08Tie a little bit of string to the plant
20:10so then you can climb up the string.
20:12I think this is going to be work
20:14I'm going to enjoy.
20:16I did this when I was young
20:18with my grandparents.
20:20I consider myself as a country boy.
20:22I love to open the door of my home,
20:24breathe.
20:26Can you imagine?
20:29It's mad when we go to the graveyard there
20:31and it's like Jeremy's related to everybody.
20:33Is that where you're going to bury me?
20:35In one of those tombs?
20:37Oh, you can choose.
20:39Can I?
20:41I feel like Italians are so obsessed with death.
20:43I've never really thought about
20:45where I was going to be buried until I met you.
20:47And I was like, oh, I guess I'll be here then, won't I?
20:49There's a lot of uncertainty
20:51about our future and where we're going to end up.
20:53And obviously being a woman of 44
20:55with no children,
20:58it's a bit of an anomaly.
21:00You're at a crossroads in your life.
21:02Are you just going to be this career woman?
21:04Are you going to be the family woman?
21:06Are you just going to be a wife?
21:08And I'm not sure I want to just do
21:10what everyone else does.
21:12This is so nice.
21:14I could be out here all day doing this.
21:16This isn't even work for me.
21:18Doesn't that remind you of the Abrizzo mountains in Italy?
21:20I love Italy.
21:22I want to move to Italy.
21:24I know, babes.
21:26We've decided to go
21:28a route that most people don't go.
21:30I mean, there's definitely no tourists.
21:32Wow, we're the only ones who got off the bus.
21:36We're off to meet a man called Gonzalo
21:38to work cleaning some cars.
21:40I think we're just going to be
21:42walking up and down here for four hours.
21:44Are you filming?
21:46I can tell.
21:48Sam today is tired.
21:50Yeah, just walking down someone's street.
21:52He's a little bit miserable
21:55and he's finding it tough.
21:57We've been doing this for a few weeks now
21:59and it can slightly grind you down.
22:01Is that him?
22:03No, it's just a man walking a dog.
22:05Okay.
22:07Hang on, there he is.
22:09Hello.
22:11Scott and Sam have a shift
22:13at a car garage on the banks
22:15of the Parana River.
22:17A boost to their budget,
22:19but also a much-needed boost for Sam
22:21with a joyride around the Golden Cliffs
22:23and sweeping sand dunes
22:25that stretch along the riverbank.
22:27Come on.
22:29Hi, Jack.
22:31Their driver, Gonzalo,
22:33is a former pro rally racer.
22:35I am a driver on a motorcycle
22:37and race in a car.
22:39But no racing now?
22:41No, professional.
22:43But yeah, I miss racing.
22:45You still like to race?
22:47Yeah, I like it.
22:49Mucho, me gusta mucho correr.
22:52Are you excited for the dunes?
22:54No, I'm scared.
22:56I think Gonzalo will go fast.
22:58It'll be fun.
23:00It ticks all boxes for me.
23:02It's fast-paced and exciting.
23:04Nothing to be scared of, is there?
23:06No.
23:08Wash me!
23:10Who put that on your car?
23:12Good to see in Argentina
23:14they still use the same jokes as us.
23:16It is funny, isn't it, Sam?
23:18It's hysterical.
23:21He is a bit burnt out by this whole thing today.
23:23But Sam loves speed
23:25and adrenaline,
23:27so I reckon it will boost him.
23:29I think he needs it.
23:31Maybe wash my doggy?
23:35Excellent.
23:37Are you ready for the boogie?
23:39Yes, this is what I want to do.
23:41I feel a bit sick now.
23:43I might have to go to the loo before I go.
23:45This is not my comfort zone.
23:47Yeah?
23:49Ah!
23:53Jesus!
23:55Slow! Slow!
23:57Oh, no, no, no, no!
23:59No, no, no, no!
24:01I think me and Sam work well
24:03because we do compromise as a couple.
24:05Ah!
24:09Ah!
24:11This is a small price to pay
24:13just to see him smile again
24:15on a day where there hasn't been that much of that.
24:18Oh!
24:20Oh, shit!
24:24I enjoyed that.
24:26That picked me up today.
24:30What are you doing?
24:32I don't know.
24:34Oh, shit!
24:36To be fair,
24:38that was a lot smoother than some of the bus journeys
24:40we've had this trip.
24:43Oh, horsey.
24:45Hiya.
24:47Good boy.
24:49He's so beautiful.
24:51Having spent the morning
24:53working on Klaus' ranch...
24:55All right, mate?
24:57...Kola and Mary-Ellen
24:59are getting acquainted with the horses.
25:01Around the neck first, with the rein.
25:03This is a territory
25:05that I've never been in.
25:07Me and horses don't really have a relationship.
25:09But that's going to change today.
25:11Horses like pink.
25:13It's just so grounding
25:15to be around animals.
25:17I feel like if you're sad,
25:19just come and pet a horse.
25:23Hiya.
25:25OK.
25:29Turn around
25:31with the neck.
25:33It's different from
25:35English style.
25:37This is more country style,
25:40Kola, are you OK?
25:42On this race,
25:44I hope to see a different side to Kola.
25:46Are you loving this?
25:48Yeah.
25:50So calming, isn't it?
25:52A more sensitive side to him
25:54where he does process
25:56his feelings
25:58and talks about them
26:00a little bit more.
26:02My first time
26:04riding a horse,
26:06so peaceful
26:08would be quite stressful.
26:10I feel like I'm getting a hang of it.
26:14The past few years,
26:16it hasn't been an easy ride for him.
26:18I want him to really process
26:20and go through it all
26:22and I don't think he's done that.
26:26It's not a bad life, is it?
26:28Come on.
26:32That was great, man.
26:34That was really nice.
26:37This is one of the best experiences
26:39that I've had in a long time.
26:41I don't really stop
26:43and put my life in perspective
26:45and I hardly ever stop and just think
26:47and look up, you know.
26:49But being here
26:51makes you feel
26:53I am not the main character
26:55of life.
26:57The life goes on
26:59whether you're here or not
27:01and there's something
27:03beautiful about that.
27:06Last year wasn't the best year for me.
27:08I lost my dad.
27:12It was a long road.
27:14He had dementia
27:16for like
27:18three years.
27:22It took everything from him.
27:24It was
27:26extremely stressful
27:28going to set and then coming back
27:30to look after my dad.
27:32I think out of all of our family members
27:34I was the last one
27:36that he remembered
27:38and then
27:40nothing.
27:44Heartbreaking.
27:46You almost grieve for them
27:48while they're still alive
27:50when their personality is almost all but gone.
27:52So when he actually finally passed
27:54it was a sense of
27:56selfishly a little bit of relief
27:58because I didn't have to see him
28:00the way he was
28:03in his final days.
28:07I like to believe
28:09he's at peace now.
28:11He's not alone, he's not in the dark anymore
28:13because that's what the disease does to you.
28:15It puts you in the dark.
28:17I do miss him but
28:19this opportunity came
28:21and it was a chance
28:23to disconnect
28:25and in a sense heal
28:27a little bit.
28:29There's something so calming
28:31and that horse took everything away
28:33for a split second, it was just me
28:35chilling with a rider
28:37and a horse
28:39and that's what mattered.
28:47Freddie!
28:49Two minutes.
28:51After 20 hours on the road
28:53Jeff and Freddie have reached San Jose
28:55de las Salinas.
28:57We've found ourselves in some places haven't we?
29:00Hola!
29:02Bienvenidos!
29:04Hi, I am Adriana.
29:06Adriana runs a hotel near the Salinas Grandes
29:08Salt Flats
29:10where they've secured a free bed for the night
29:12and returned for a housekeeping shift.
29:16We have to tuck it in
29:18and we have to do that nice corner
29:20effect.
29:22So grabbing the corners
29:24Yeah.
29:26Like a Christmas present.
29:29You've unwrapped a Christmas present.
29:33Do you box your bed corners back on?
29:35No, I don't. I do make it as soon as I get up though.
29:37What do they say?
29:39Clean bedroom, clean mind.
29:41That's why I ain't had the cleanest of minds then.
29:43I make a good house
29:45No, that's what I say in the word.
29:47A good house son.
29:49Like I am
29:51That's a new definition.
29:53A house son. Have you ever heard of a house son?
29:55A great house son.
29:57Well, I want to be.
29:59What's that bump in the middle of the bed?
30:01That's just the mattress.
30:03Oh no.
30:05Yeah, it is the mattress.
30:07Good at putting washes on for everyone.
30:09Yeah.
30:11So this is Fred's argument as to why
30:13you should stay living at home
30:15for an extended period.
30:17I feel like actually I'm not doing
30:19you any good by giving
30:21you a free ride.
30:23It's not a free ride. I'm paying rent now.
30:26It doesn't even cover the electric
30:28but it's definitely a start
30:30on the ladder towards having
30:32responsibilities.
30:34What it's more about is that I realise
30:36Fred that the longer
30:38I make things really easy
30:40for you, the less
30:42inclined you are to go and actually
30:44take full responsibility for your own life.
30:46Yeah, alright.
30:48Should we make bed as well?
30:50While we have this conversation.
30:52We're not really getting anywhere.
30:55But no, we still
30:57want to chat.
30:59I feel like you've shut that convo down.
31:01No, I haven't shut it down.
31:03We need to work as well as talk.
31:05Always a difficult discussion
31:07but I guess I brought it up
31:09because he's holding himself back.
31:11I find that really
31:13upsetting because you want him to
31:15unleash all of the wonderful stuff
31:17that's inside him. I can't be the
31:19solution for him but what I can do is
31:21stop making everything so easy for him.
31:23Yes!
31:25You are not being asked to leave
31:27and you are
31:29welcome to stay with me for
31:31another two years.
31:33I'd say a maximum of two years, yeah.
31:35Alright,
31:37that's fair. That's enough time.
31:39We go
31:41now to a very special
31:43place.
31:49The Salinas Grande Salt Flats
31:52A white desert stretching
31:54out over 200,000 hectares.
32:00The waters here create a translucent
32:02sea over the vast salt
32:04plains, giving the effect
32:06of an eternal horizon.
32:10The people here says
32:12the sun
32:14dances in the sky.
32:16That sounds incredible.
32:18Is this salt as well then?
32:22Put it in your mouth.
32:24It is. It's salt.
32:26Just salt. Probably a bit of dirt and all.
32:28Look at that.
32:30Is the sun dancing
32:32do you think?
32:34I think it's pretty
32:36stationary.
32:38My focus has obviously been
32:40on Freddy and his brother for so long
32:42but they're both of an age where
32:44at some point they'll move out
32:46and then we'll all be in a very different phase of life.
32:48How do you feel dad?
32:50This is probably the best
32:52thing that we could have done
32:54this whole trip.
32:56I know who I am as a dad
32:58because I've been playing that role
33:00for 20 odd years
33:02and it doesn't always leave
33:04much space for you
33:06to be anything else.
33:08And it's maybe not until you take that
33:10hat off because they've moved out
33:12that you then start to really look
33:14at who am I
33:16and how I go about the next phase
33:19of my life.
33:21I kind of see this trip as the start of that process.
33:23This is like perfection
33:25for me.
33:27I would have travelled 10 times as far
33:29and sat on 10 times
33:31as many coaches to have got here to have watched that.
33:33Oh wow.
33:35I'm not sure about the coaches
33:37but I'm very glad that I got to see this with you.
33:44This looks lovely.
33:46Is this your wine?
33:49Kelly and Jeremy are enjoying the hospitality
33:51of Sean and his family.
33:53Where do you live now?
33:55London.
33:57I just went to London when I met my wife.
33:59She said, stay in London for a while.
34:01Do you enjoy living in Italy more than
34:03France for example?
34:05Yeah. I think I love
34:07where I come from.
34:09My blood and genetics.
34:11I think Jeremy and I
34:13wondered a lot about where our
34:15home is. This is very Italian.
34:17So when we're sitting here now
34:19I'm like, oh my god, it's so similar.
34:21I do feel like
34:23this whole experience
34:25has made Jeremy and I re-evaluate
34:27what's important to us.
34:29Home is where we are together ultimately.
34:31We could live anywhere in the world.
34:33So if Jeremy wants to spend a few years in Italy
34:35and, I don't know,
34:37renovate an old farm building
34:39and grow some olives,
34:41I'm down for that.
34:43Whilst Kelly and Jeremy take advantage
34:46of a free bed for the night
34:481,000 kilometres away
34:50Looking forward
34:52to sleep, to be honest.
34:54And then we will tackle tomorrow.
34:56With no buses out,
34:58Scott and Sam are stranded in Empedrado.
35:00Do you have a room
35:02for two people?
35:04That's a lot of money.
35:06And that's your cheapest room?
35:08Cheapest.
35:10The only room available
35:12will wipe out today's earnings.
35:16What do you want to see?
35:22Let's go and see what other options are.
35:24We'll be annoyed
35:26if there's another hotel down the road
35:28that's half the price.
35:30I just don't know what other options we're going to find
35:32because we've never been here before in our lives.
35:34I just think we're tired now
35:36and we don't know what to do with ourselves.
35:38We can't make a decision.
35:40So let's just get some sleep.
35:43Yeah, yeah.
35:45OK.
35:47Hi, it's us again.
35:49Can we have that room, please?
35:53It's more than we want to spend.
35:57I'm shattered.
35:59I think this is the tiredest I've ever been.
36:01When you're in first place
36:03you're always constantly worried.
36:05Any decision that you make
36:07that could mean someone's catching up
36:09with you.
36:11I've let it consume me too much.
36:13Maybe today I've let it consume me a bit more
36:15because I'm tired and I'm overthinking things.
36:19Right, shall we get some sleep?
36:21Get the light off then.
36:29On the road again.
36:31Departing gaucho country.
36:33Adios!
36:35Cola and Mary Ellen bag a free lift
36:37from their host to the nearest town.
36:40This is the last leg.
36:42We want to get as close to the top
36:44as we can for the very last run.
36:46They still have to travel
36:48over 1,200 kilometres
36:50to reach the checkpoint.
36:54Come on, Cola!
36:56Via the nearest big city, Corrientes.
36:58Hoping for number one spot.
37:00You've just got to keep eye on the price.
37:02We need to go to Corrientes.
37:04Heading the same way,
37:06Scott and Sam have a 270-kilometre
37:08head start.
37:10Could you please call us a taxi?
37:16No.
37:18We are in a small town, Sam.
37:20No one's taken a taxi
37:22for ten years.
37:24I didn't think it would be this hard
37:26to get out of here.
37:30To the west.
37:32Let's go. We are now racing to checkpoint.
37:34Two teams are looking to get on the move.
37:37Come on, let's go and get a job.
37:39To reach the checkpoint,
37:41they can either go back on themselves to Cordoba,
37:43the country's second biggest city,
37:45or find alternative transport
37:47going north.
37:49Do you think I'll be able to get a bus
37:51from here to Tilcara?
37:53No, you must go back to Cordoba.
37:55From Cordoba, you can
37:57go everywhere.
37:59Do you think that there is someone here
38:01that I can pay
38:03to drive?
38:06We have two legs to go, but we have
38:08not spent lots of money
38:10so we can take a taxi
38:12to be quicker.
38:14Maybe we can get a taxi?
38:16Thank you so much.
38:18To travel
38:20four hours back down south
38:22where we've already been
38:24to then take ourselves up north,
38:26now is when we should start using
38:28the extra budget that we feel
38:30like we've got to our advantage.
38:32The driver tells us
38:34I can bring you to Frias.
38:36Yeah, where is Frias?
38:38I don't know if you see it.
38:40I think it's on the way or here.
38:42Yeah, it's forwards. I like that.
38:44With Jeff's discovery of Frias,
38:46a small town 170km north
38:48and closer to the checkpoint,
38:50father and son have a decision
38:52to make.
38:54You need to get your opinion on stuff, right?
38:56We can go back to Cordoba, which feels like
38:58a safe option. We'll be on an overnight bus.
39:00But what he actually recommends
39:03is taking us to a place called Frias.
39:05It's not on the map, but it's on this road.
39:07That way we're moving towards the checkpoint.
39:09You're pointing at the corner of that road there.
39:11What will be there?
39:13I don't know. She wasn't able to necessarily
39:15point me exactly, but
39:17we would get from that road
39:19onto there
39:21and then round to there.
39:23You know there's good links from Cordoba.
39:25There's always going to be an element of a risk.
39:27It's not something I'm particularly good at.
39:29But we've come in fourth. We are racing after all.
39:32Yeah, let's do it.
39:34Yes, Freddy, on to Frias.
39:40We need to get to a main bus terminal,
39:42book a ticket and just go.
39:44180km south,
39:46Kelly and Jeremy choose the opposite approach.
39:48How far is Cordoba?
39:50We are actually north of Cordoba
39:52right now, which means we are closer
39:54to checkpoint.
39:56However, we think if we go back to Cordoba
39:58there'll be a much better bus connection.
40:00Is this a bus, this one?
40:02No, come on.
40:04Even though we're going to forfeit two hours, it's worth a gamble.
40:06Oh, yeah, yeah, yeah.
40:12Bus station with no buses.
40:14Let's go find a bus.
40:22I don't even want to say it.
40:24Yeah, it's just not looking good.
40:26This could be really disappointing.
40:29Hola, que tal?
40:31Buenos, bueno.
40:33Okay, Frias.
40:35Tilcara.
40:37Not direct.
40:39Tucuman.
40:41It's just taking us to Tucuman.
40:43We're not getting far then.
40:47With no direct buses available to Tilcara,
40:49their only option today
40:51is a bus to the city of Tucuman,
40:53just four hours north.
40:55Right, Fred,
40:57I've put us in this little corner,
40:59so apologies for that.
41:01Dad, we're a team.
41:03You won't let me down.
41:07This is one of the most useless feelings
41:09I've had this whole trip.
41:11So, look, let's just compare the two, right?
41:13Cordoba,
41:15800 bus companies,
41:17all open, all hours.
41:19Frias, two companies.
41:21It's safe.
41:24I kept saying, you know,
41:26I've always been safe,
41:28and I would have gone to Cordoba
41:30nine times out of ten.
41:32Freddy, I will not stop until we get
41:34our onward travel sorted out.
41:40Having gone in the opposite direction
41:42to Jeff and Freddy,
41:44Kelly and Jeremy are hoping to find
41:46the earliest bus leaving today.
41:48Que hora?
41:50Eight o'clock.
41:53I had to wait.
41:55Babe, it's another six hours waiting around a bus station.
41:57Let's book it.
41:59Despite a six-hour wait,
42:01their overnight bus will take them
42:03to San Salvador de Jujuy,
42:05the nearest big city to Tilcara,
42:07just 85 kilometres
42:09from the checkpoint.
42:11Is it the bed option?
42:13You can have a bed,
42:15and I'll take the one upstairs.
42:17Why don't we just both have a bed?
42:19You have a bed, I pay you a bed,
42:21No, I'm not doing that.
42:23No, no, it's fine, you can have it.
42:25But isn't it...
42:27So for £15, you don't want a bed?
42:29Because we need some money for next week.
42:31No, I'll come up with you then.
42:33You can have a bed.
42:35No, Jeremy, I'm not going to keep doing this.
42:37It's not fair.
42:39Because you're just making me look like
42:41I'm a diva all the time, and I'm not.
42:43It's such a small amount of money, Jeremy.
42:45And at the end of the race,
42:47you're going to have all this money left over,
42:50OK, we change for the bed.
42:52We upgraded.
42:54How could you go
42:5613 hours upstairs
42:58and I'm downstairs? Wouldn't you miss me?
43:00No, but...
43:02With time to kill,
43:04What do you want to do?
43:06I don't want six hours in a bus station.
43:08they head into Cordoba.
43:10It's good to explore.
43:12It's so pretty.
43:14It's nice to see a place like this.
43:16Yeah? You see so much European influence,
43:18don't you?
43:20Named after the Spanish city,
43:22Cordoba was founded in the late 16th century,
43:24developed by the Jesuit missionaries
43:26from colonial Spain.
43:28Oh, wow.
43:30In the centre,
43:32Cordoba Cathedral,
43:34the oldest in Argentina.
43:36This is one of your
43:38beautiful churches.
43:40It's more better than waiting three hours
43:42in the bus station.
43:44Built originally in the 1500s,
43:47the church suffered a collapse 150 years later
43:49and was redesigned
43:51by an Italian architect
43:53in the shape of a Latin cross.
43:55Jeremy and I didn't get married
43:57in an Italian church.
43:59We decided to get married in the garden
44:01of the castle in Albina.
44:03It was like the biggest thunderstorm
44:05you'd ever seen.
44:07And I screamed out,
44:09Jeremy, I'm coming!
44:13He said the rain was cleansing me
44:16because I was marrying a Catholic.
44:18Italian.
44:20And I was too dirty and I needed to be cleansed.
44:22You were too dirty,
44:24you need to clean everything.
44:28Kiss, kiss.
44:34Do you feel cleansed?
44:40I think the others have taken a different route entirely.
44:42You just don't know.
44:44To the east,
44:46two teams are en route to Corrientes.
44:48Ready for another
44:50long bus.
44:52This must be it.
45:00We are looking for a bus
45:02to Tilcara.
45:06No direct bus.
45:08No direct bus.
45:10I think we should just go to Salta.
45:13The closest they can get to the checkpoint
45:15is Salta, a city 200km shy
45:17of Tilcara.
45:19It's not cheap, this bus lot
45:21in Argentina.
45:23Thank you so much.
45:25They are way much more money
45:27than I was expecting.
45:29We thought the less travelled route in Argentina
45:31would mean that it's less expensive.
45:33It's
45:35four hours away from now.
45:37We will lose a lot of time in those four hours.
45:39Oh, oh, oh.
45:42What?
45:44Just saw Cola and Mary.
45:46Hello.
45:48Which is the most expensive bus?
45:50It's so expensive.
45:52See you in a minute, yeah.
45:541, 2, 3, 4, 5,
45:566, 7.
45:58It's never nice
46:00when you see another team because
46:02you know then you're not in first anymore.
46:04How are you feeling about that?
46:06A bit gutted. There was probably about 12 hours
46:08between us, Cola and Mary.
46:10Really reassuring, to be honest,
46:12considering they came first, the last leg.
46:14Well, obviously we're on the same bus as Cola
46:16and Mary, but then
46:18it's what happens when we get there
46:20and also when we get off.
46:22Sorry, got here first, alright?
46:24Move out my way.
46:26I think it's going to be very close.
46:30800km west.
46:32I'm afraid I'm going in.
46:34Alright, all the best. Do it for us.
46:36On their short bus ride
46:39to Tucuman, Geoff is determined
46:41to keep them moving by finding
46:43an overnight bus towards the checkpoint.
46:45Hola, I need to
46:47buy a ticket
46:49for the bus,
46:51Omnibus.
46:55Oh no, no, no, no, no, no, no.
46:57I'm not asking for money.
46:59No.
47:01I need a ticket.
47:03My mum teaches English.
47:05Wow.
47:07Ha, ha, ha.
47:14Hola, mi madre.
47:16Que tal?
47:18I'm hoping to book
47:20a ticket. Can you tell
47:22him this?
47:24Please.
47:30San Salvador.
47:32Are you able to buy the tickets
47:34and I can give you the
47:37money there? Gracias.
47:39You make a grande
47:41difference.
47:43Yes.
47:47Yes, Fred.
47:49Oh.
47:51That is such a relief.
47:53Where's it going to?
47:55To the checkpoint tonight.
47:57To Cordoba?
47:59Well, not to Tilcara
48:01actually, to San Salvador, but
48:03this now becomes the better outcome
48:06than Cordoba.
48:08Stop blaming us. We're a good team.
48:10Yeah, you watched the bags
48:12really well tonight, Fred.
48:24That was a horrible bus.
48:26Oh, I thought it was the best bus I've been on.
48:28Really?
48:30After travelling over 13 hours through the night,
48:32two teams arrive in Salta.
48:34With 200 kilometres still to go
48:36before they reach the checkpoint,
48:38I'm worried that a taxi's too expensive
48:40and we haven't got the money. We're losing money
48:42all the time. Both teams
48:44plot their final dash.
48:46So what you want to do, acquire that taxi
48:48or acquire that bus?
48:50I'd love a taxi, but I don't think
48:52we're going to get that two-hour journey
48:54with the money we have.
48:58I'll go and see
49:00how much a taxi would be.
49:03Speak English.
49:05$50.
49:11$10.30.
49:15Okay.
49:17I don't need to ask.
49:19Half ten.
49:21$50.
49:24They're still there.
49:28Are they in a taxi?
49:30Tilcara?
49:32$100.
49:34Can you do it for $50,000
49:36and $30,000 Argentinean money?
49:38See?
49:40I mean, the bus is not now till 10.30,
49:42so that's two and a half hours' wait,
49:44so it's another gamble that we've got to take.
49:48Taxi!
49:50We're on our way.
49:52We've made the decision.
49:54First to arrive in the province
49:56of the checkpoint...
49:58Dad, it says Tilcara. Let's get a look.
50:00Jeff and Freddie have found
50:02a quick connection to Tilcara.
50:04Dad, there's a bus right behind us
50:06that could be an opportunity.
50:08Let me see if anyone gets off from the backpack.
50:10Just arriving in San Salvador
50:12de Jujuy...
50:14It's annoying. We just missed a bus by one minute.
50:16I feel excited.
50:18I can smell the book.
50:21Rather than waiting for the next bus,
50:23Kelly and Jeremy splash out
50:25to stay in the running.
50:29All teams start their ascent
50:31on the same road through
50:33Quebrada de Umahuaca.
50:35The views up here are just
50:37something else.
50:41This feels unlike anything we've seen
50:43before on this trip.
50:45We drove through some mountains in Brazil
50:47but they were nowhere near as tall.
50:49Love a mountain range, Fred.
50:51Stretching 155 kilometers,
50:53once a major trade route
50:55for the Inca Empire
50:57in the 15th and 16th century.
50:59I feel like I'm in Star Wars
51:01or something.
51:03Characterized by its landscapes
51:05of multicolored canyons,
51:07towering rock formations
51:09and arid, ochre-hued desert terrain.
51:11This is some of the most stunning scenery
51:13we've seen, I think.
51:152,500 meters above sea level,
51:18the fifth checkpoint.
51:20The tiny mountain town
51:22of Tilcara.
51:27Is this Tilcara?
51:29Gosh, it's gorgeous.
51:33This reminds me
51:35of the Wild Wild West.
51:42After traversing almost half
51:44the length of Argentina,
51:47all teams are neck and neck.
51:49This is anyone's, I think.
51:55Sam's got it there, they've just got it out of the car.
51:57Better run as quick as you can, Collar.
51:59Ready, Sam? Let's do it.
52:01OK, let's go. Oh my God, we're really racing now.
52:03Mary and Collar are here as well.
52:09Go to the market and find
52:11the Trinity of Bust.
52:13Await there for further instructions.
52:17Where's the market?
52:19Market, market, maybe this way?
52:21Oh my God, the boys are there. Come on, Mary.
52:23Ask these people.
52:25Do you know where the Trinity of Bust is?
52:29It's this way because everyone else has gone this way,
52:31so let's go.
52:33Go on, mate, just behind you.
52:35Bust, what's that?
52:37Bust is like a head of something.
52:39Look, it's behind us.
52:41Geoff and Freddie.
52:43Come on, Mary.
52:45Right, I need the water.
52:47Are you finding it hard to breathe?
52:49It's the altitude.
52:51There's not as much oxygen up here.
52:55I don't know where to go.
52:57Freddie, were you looking for the Mercado?
52:59No, I'm looking for
53:01Trinity of Bust.
53:03Tell me so we can ask people.
53:05Trinity of Bust?
53:07Trinity.
53:09Go to the market.
53:12Look, that looks like a market right in front of us.
53:14Market's just there. Mary, the market's just here.
53:20Excuse him.
53:22Statues?
53:24Trinity? No.
53:26Is that the market?
53:28That's the butchers?
53:30Trinity of Bust.
53:32One, two, three. Bust.
53:34Go right behind the church
53:38and then find Las Marias Hotel.
53:42Church?
53:44Church?
53:46God? Church?
53:48Hola, the church?
53:50Gracias.
53:52Trinity of Bust?
53:54No.
53:56No one's ever heard of it.
54:00Looks like a church.
54:02Church.
54:06He knows because they're all the way up there.
54:08Can you see them blue bags?
54:10That's where we're headed.
54:12Quick, quick, quick.
54:14Fred, pace it, mate.
54:16What is he doing?
54:20Turn right behind the church.
54:22Oh, my calves.
54:24Can you see it?
54:26Come on, Mary. Come on, Mary.
54:28Fred, a little burst if you want it.
54:30I've got a wedgie. My mouth is dry.
54:34Come on, Mary.
54:37I know it's hard.
54:39Come on.
54:41Push it, push it.
54:43There it is.
54:47Come on, Fred.
54:49Come on.
54:55Good morning.
54:57Welcome to Las Marias Hotel Boutique.
55:07First, baby.
55:09Finally, finally.
55:11It's a good feeling.
55:13Oh, proud of you.
55:15We've done it.
55:17We've done it.
55:21Well done, then.
55:25Wow, seven minutes, innit?
55:27Yeah, feel good. Kind of feel like we're first
55:29because the gap is just so short.
55:31We were 11 hours behind.
55:33We've clawed back a lot of time.
55:36We're in the mix, going into the last leg.
55:40Las Marias?
55:42Si.
55:44Las Marinas.
55:50Third.
55:52It doesn't surprise me.
55:54Fifteen minutes, innit?
55:56That's us trying to find the bursts.
55:58Can you see that, babe?
56:00Made it.
56:02Oh, my God.
56:04Oh, my God.
56:06I knew it, I knew it.
56:08So we are all the same.
56:10Yeah.
56:12I don't like four, but when I saw the time,
56:14I said, OK, it's not too bad.
56:1640 minutes is nothing.
56:18I think we're feeling quite motivated, aren't we?
56:20It's literally like we're starting the race from scratch now.
56:22At the fifth and final checkpoint
56:24of the race,
56:26with 2,750 kilometres
56:28still to run until they reach
56:30the finish line,
56:33nine minutes separates all four teams.
56:35Anyone can win this.
56:37So we need to plot it right.
56:39One mistake when it's this tight
56:41can cost you the whole thing.
56:43We've just got to hope
56:45that we don't have any of those
56:47in the last leg.
56:51This is it.
56:53The last push.
56:55The race is anyone's.
56:57We're going to win.
56:59I'm manifesting my name in that book.
57:02This is the biggest decision we'll have to make.
57:04Go.
57:06Let's make it all count.
57:08It would really be something to cross the line first.
57:10Dad, we've just missed our bus.
57:12How have we messed this up?
57:14Oh, my God.
57:16This is the worst thing that's happened on the race so far.
57:18Can we come with you?
57:20You want to win so bad.
57:22Stop, stop, stop.
57:24There can be no slip-ups, no wrong turns,
57:26because every moment counts.
57:32You
57:34You
57:36You
57:38You
57:40You
57:42You
57:44You
57:46You
57:48You
57:50You
57:52You
57:54You
57:56You