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Libeco utilizes artisanal farming techniques, method transparency, and carbon-neutral processing. Certifications they've earned make them a pillar of the circular furnishings community.

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Designer Laurence Carr meets manufacturers and brands who are employing circular, regenerative, and sustainable practices. See how they're seeking to change the end-of-life concept with eco-friendly techniques.

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00:00🎵
00:29Libeco is a Belgium weaving company specializing in flax linen,
00:34based in Flanders, the traditional flax growing region of Europe,
00:38that includes Holland, France and Belgium,
00:41and boosts over 160 years of experience in the field.
00:46Sustainability is in Libeco's DNA,
00:49since flax is a naturally eco-friendly material,
00:52given its green farming practices
00:54and the ability to process it in very environmentally mindful ways.
00:59Let's learn more about Libeco and their commitment to circularity,
01:04in discussion with Katherine Richardson,
01:06Libeco's Vice President of Sales.
01:09Hello Katherine, welcome to our series on circular design.
01:13Thank you so much for having me.
01:14I really am looking forward to this discussion.
01:17Thanks for being here.
01:18Could you introduce yourself and Libeco?
01:21My name is Katherine Richardson and I have been working for Libeco
01:26in over 160-year-old Belgian linen weaver.
01:31We are based in Flanders,
01:33which is the traditional flax growing region of Europe,
01:38in a small town in Belgium called Mulebeek.
01:41I work out of our satellite office in New York,
01:43for sales and marketing,
01:45and sell to companies who buy piece goods linen,
01:49linen blends,
01:50and also a finished product line called Libeco Home,
01:54which is products for the home,
01:56sheets, blankets, accessories, etc.
02:00So how did you get into the textile industry?
02:03Textiles has always been a secret passion.
02:06I've always loved home products
02:08and I began my career in retail in home.
02:12Throughout my history,
02:13I've always gravitated towards companies with a sustainable aesthetic,
02:18with a passion for building quality products
02:22and producing something that had people in mind and healthy living.
02:28So for me, this is really a perfect job,
02:32but it does begin with a love of textiles and artisanal production.
02:37Can you tell me about Libeco's commitment to sustainability?
02:40Libeco has always had sustainability as part of its DNA.
02:45It really came from the use of flax.
02:48That's where linen comes from.
02:50It's a naturally ecological product,
02:52if not the most eco-friendly that you can get out there.
02:56The farming practices are very green.
02:58The production processes all can extend in very ecological ways.
03:03And the commitment Libeco has made to those processes
03:06are really what set us apart from many other linen producers.
03:10We went carbon neutral in 2014.
03:14We started a survey for a number of years
03:17that was designed to evaluate our carbon emissions.
03:20We're now completely solar and wind powered.
03:23We changed our vehicles.
03:25Whatever we could not change and reduce,
03:28we now offset.
03:29And we've invested in a healthy cooking stove program in Africa for that reason.
03:36So we are now carbon neutral.
03:39Net zero.
03:39Did you see a need to invest in organic farming?
03:43And did it start with consumer demand?
03:46We did invest in organic production a number of years ago
03:50and did so because our owners saw an opportunity
03:54to explore the future of what linen and flax could and should be,
04:00not because there was first the demand,
04:03which is normally how product development is done.
04:05So interestingly, we worked with a group of farmers in France.
04:10We brought an organic linen product to market, fabrics,
04:14and worked with them for four or five years
04:18to invest and subsidize them so that they could produce that organic product.
04:23It takes quite a long time to get the soil healthy enough
04:26to sustain itself with absolutely no added irrigation
04:30or pesticides or fertilizers for conventionally grown crops in general.
04:35And for flax that already uses such minimal amounts,
04:39it even took that long to invest for organic production.
04:43Plus the process of getting certified.
04:45So we now have a global organic textile standard certified product.
04:49And now we're seeing demand meet that product,
04:53which was not what it was at the beginning.
04:55And we're hoping that we push the consumer demand further
04:59by having a product that's available.
05:01And eventually we hope all of our flax is grown with this organic standard
05:06and not only just the conventional methods,
05:09which are already very, very sustainable and green to start with.
05:13Your artisans use a technique that is passed down over generations
05:18to create your linens.
05:19Tell me more about that.
05:21We have found that artisanal farming methods help sustain an organic product.
05:26The crop rotation, as one example,
05:29is something that is not taught in conventional agricultural schools,
05:33but rather sourced from journals from farmers
05:37that pass down the methods we now employ in this organic farming.
05:42So that's one example.
05:43We also use the same methodologies in weaving
05:47that were used years and years ago.
05:49Now we certainly have updated them.
05:52So in combining available technology and improvements,
05:56we can certainly make a much better product,
05:59a more consistent product that we can manage with computerized systems.
06:03But it's still the same artisanal process.
06:05That's so important.
06:07Transparency is at the forefront of everyone's mind
06:10when it comes to what products are made of.
06:12Where are your raw materials sourced?
06:15Because we are a certified authentic Belgian linen weaver,
06:19we are sourcing all of our flax yarns from Flanders,
06:24which is the region of Holland, France, and Belgium
06:27that flax is grown best in.
06:29It's an indigenous product to that region,
06:32so the best flax fiber comes from that region,
06:34which is why Belgian linen is really renowned.
06:37We have many partnerships throughout the yarn community,
06:40and we do source new yarns, fantasy yarns,
06:43for innovation to our products and for our linen blends.
06:48And those are also sourced in Europe.
06:50But it's a very transparent chain of command.
06:53It's all certified so that we know they're non-toxic,
06:56and it goes along with our Ocotex certification
06:59and our GOT certification
07:01when it is Global Organic Textile Standard certified.
07:04Can you expand on certified renewable sources,
07:07eco-responsible production process,
07:09and environmental standards?
07:11Certifications are really important
07:14and an easy way to communicate
07:16what standards a company adheres to,
07:18but it also can be a method of greenwashing.
07:22And we all have seen that in our sustainability situations.
07:27And I think Ocotex, I mentioned before,
07:29is one of those that we feel strongly about
07:31because it does measure the toxicity with a product
07:36and human contact through saliva,
07:38off-gassing through air, and through skin contact.
07:41So it's one of the ones we feel is most
07:44encompassing and pervasive.
07:45There are certainly many, many others.
07:48We're a Gold Certified Sustainable Furnishings Council member,
07:52which is really something we're proud of.
07:55And it allows for us to be transparent
07:58because our landing page on the SFC website
08:01will tell you all of the certifications that we hold
08:04and our sustainable practices.
08:05So it's a really great resource to see
08:07what companies are doing what
08:09and what plans we have in place to even be better.
08:13Let's talk about water usage and finishes
08:16as those play a role into the sustainability of a product
08:19more than people realize.
08:21What sustainable options does LivEco use for dye
08:25and anything else it applies to its natural fibers?
08:28Laurence, you hit on such a big topic
08:30and I think it's one that really needs more education.
08:33And that is how much water textile production takes.
08:38And certainly for flax, it's not in the growing,
08:41which is significant for other fibers,
08:43even natural fibers like bamboo,
08:45but it is in the processing of textiles.
08:48And water usage is a huge concern for LivEco.
08:51Our company owner has been researching
08:54waterless dyeing for years
08:56and looking at what will happen
08:58with the future of flax production
09:01as it relates to water
09:03and the dearth of water resources as we progress.
09:08It's the new gold.
09:09So water is very much a concern for us
09:12as well as conditions for growing.
09:14As the climate does change and it gets warmer,
09:17the regions in which flax are grown are affected.
09:21And we do talk about that quite a lot,
09:23especially during the growing season.
09:25You'll see all of us concerned with
09:27what's the weather there, what's the weather there.
09:29But there are lots of new technologies coming on board,
09:32like I mentioned, waterless dyeing.
09:34But certainly with lesser chemicals
09:38to be able to dye and finish
09:40where they use less water
09:42or the toxicity is less
09:45because there's less dye stuff used,
09:47like reactive dye is an update to traditional dyeing
09:52that doesn't use heavy metals or azo dyes.
09:55And certainly those are great investments
09:58so that the toxicity of a product
10:00is not affecting us in a negative way.
10:02And we feel so passionate about that
10:04in producing an ecological product
10:07because we are living and working in the same community.
10:11Europeans take for granted
10:12because they all have to be REACH certified.
10:15It's another certification that has to do
10:17with making sure chemicals are stored
10:21and used responsibly
10:23so they're not affecting the humans
10:24that are working with them
10:25or the environment where they're used.
10:28And that's so important for us
10:31living and working in the community
10:34as well as producing a product
10:35that's non-toxic and certified so.
10:38How does LIBECO measure its impact?
10:41Can you share statistics about the measurable effects
10:44of your eco-friendly policies?
10:46Sure.
10:46We have to go through certification every year
10:49for those certifications we do hold.
10:53So it is quite a bit of a process to undertake
10:56and we have an internal control manager
10:58who does monitor those
11:00and we have certificates that we post
11:02and we give to customers
11:03who ask for GOT certificates, Ocotex certification.
11:06Cradle-to-cradle certification is another one
11:09where our loom state is certified cradle-to-cradle.
11:12Also we invest in studies
11:15to see that a yard of fabric
11:18if left outside in open ground
11:20fully disintegrates after six and a half months.
11:23So we know a product is truly natural
11:26with no footprint left whatsoever
11:28after a certain period of time
11:30and we can through independent studies
11:32point to things like that.
11:34We also take pride in the fact
11:35that if you compare
11:37buying the equivalent amount of flax or linen
11:41to that in cotton
11:44you are actually saving about 650,000 gallons of water per year
11:51if you're investing in flax products versus cotton.
11:53Not to say cotton is not also improving
11:55but we feel really great
11:56that linen is already ahead of the curve
11:58as an ecological product.
12:00Beyond sustainability
12:01is there investment and awareness of circularity at Libeco?
12:06Yes, I think the circular economy
12:09and circular production
12:10is becoming more of a buzzword
12:12and an awareness in our home products,
12:15textiles and furniture communities.
12:19Recyclable and renewable resources
12:22are now our number one source.
12:25It's not new materials anymore
12:27it's reclaimed and recycled product.
12:29So we have to look in different ways
12:31in how to recoup what we are already using
12:35or recycle or upcycle.
12:37And at Libeco in particular
12:39we do a lot that's again
12:41just part of the process for generations.
12:45For instance vacuuming up all of the lint
12:47while the weaving or the warping is going on
12:50so that all of that lint is reclaimed
12:54and we can give it back to other industries
12:56to use in paper production,
12:59animal bedding, pet products,
13:01stuffing, insulation, cardboard materials.
13:04There's actually even 20% linen fibers
13:07in our American money
13:09which is really cool.
13:10So it's used in all sorts of industries
13:12and every bit of the plant is used.
13:14Obviously why linen is so ecological
13:17in the first place.
13:18But mills like ours are taking the cut salvages,
13:21the lint, all of those extra materials
13:24and using all of that
13:25by returning it back to our community
13:28to use in other industries.
13:29For us circularity has a center
13:33and that center is about people
13:35and everything that goes on in our community
13:39is about keeping centered on that human part.
13:42What is a circular challenge
13:44you are facing at Libeco?
13:46I think the significance of the water usage
13:52for the future
13:54and our investment in technologies
13:58that will help us with global climate change.
14:03Farming is very much at the heart of our industry
14:06and a small increase in temperature
14:09really does affect our whole industry.
14:12We'll see it more dramatically in other countries
14:14that have more volatile conditions
14:16for growing flax
14:19where an immense amount of rain in one week
14:21and then a drought in another week
14:23really drastically changes the color of the flax
14:26that's harvested.
14:27So the consistency during a growing and redding cycle
14:31is really important
14:32and it's drastically affected by climate change.
14:35Can you speak to your waste management
14:37and waste reduction policies?
14:39Sure.
14:40When we looked at going carbon neutral years ago
14:43we also looked at how we managed our waste
14:46and we are very involved in recycling
14:49and those aspects of taking the pieces of flax
14:54and linen production that we do not use
14:56to go back into the community
14:57are just the first part of it.
14:59Obviously all of our recycling in the plant
15:01goes along with that
15:03but then when we look at our finishing plants
15:05they also are committed to recycling
15:07and water again is a huge piece of this
15:11where we draw the river water out of the local rivers
15:16for our water usage.
15:17It's cleaned and purified
15:19it's used in our production
15:21and our dyeing and bleaching processes
15:23which are all water-based
15:24so there's no toxicity
15:26and then afterwards it's recycled again
15:28cleaned and put back in the river
15:30cleaner than when it was originally taken out
15:33which is a phenomenal advance in our technology
15:36of finishing processes.
15:38When we used to finish flax
15:41or start with the redding cycle
15:42everything was done in the river
15:43and gosh that made for just terrible pollution
15:46so we're proud here again
15:48is a great mix of new technology
15:51and traditional methods
15:53where we are doing a lot of recycling
15:57and waste management
15:58to benefit our environment and our product.
16:01And what further circular practices
16:03are you hoping to include in the future?
16:06We really aim for full production in an organic way.
16:12Conventional flax is so green to begin with
16:16but if there are other things that we can do
16:19to improve that
16:21we certainly will be investing for the future.
16:24One thing that I think we can greatly improve on
16:27is our packaging.
16:29We're researching biodegradable packaging
16:32plastic packaging that's corn-based now
16:35and hoping to marry good design
16:37with those ecological aspects.
16:40And as well we also need to look for
16:44carbon neutral shipping.
16:46We grow in Belgium
16:47the one piece of our production
16:50that's really not as sustainable as we could be
16:53is that we're not next door
16:55to every one of our clients.
16:57We have to get the product to them
16:59and so we are shipping air freight
17:01we are shipping via container in some cases
17:04and so that carbon footprint
17:07we need to offset in some ways
17:09or find alternatives to be able to do.
17:12We consider flax the fiber of the future.
17:15Flax as a composite material
17:17is as strong as carbon fiber or glass fiber
17:20but so much lighter.
17:22So it's being investigated for use
17:25in component parts for planes
17:26that would then make planes lighter
17:29and fly more economically in terms of energy.
17:32It would take less fuel to fly a plane
17:34that's significantly lighter.
17:36So those investments we're hoping
17:38will really help make some significant reductions
17:42in carbon and our footprint on the planet.
17:45What are some applications at Libeco
17:48that you feel most proud of?
17:50It's fascinating to me to see
17:52what people do with the linen
17:54because it can be everything.
17:56I see it in traditional environments
17:59in contemporary environments.
18:01It's also traditionally been used as artist canvases
18:05and it's also used in archival exhibits
18:08because it's naturally pH balanced
18:11and because companies like Libeco
18:13don't do anything to add
18:15we have a lot of conservators
18:17and galleries and artists working with our linen
18:19which I think is kind of fascinating.
18:21It's a very traditional method or use of linen
18:25and it's something that you don't necessarily think about.
18:28How are Libeco's products used in the interiors industry?
18:33We have linen used in wide ranges of interior projects
18:37from traditional to contemporary
18:40for drapery, for upholstery, pillows, rugs.
18:45Your entire room could essentially be of linen
18:48and now we're seeing that flax composite
18:50used for manufacturing and molding of furniture
18:53which is really, really cool.
18:56It is a product that makes your home beautiful
18:58because again, it's much greener and safer
19:01and healthier for your home.
19:03I do notice a difference in coming home.
19:05There's this smell that's very earthy
19:08but slight and no chemicals at all.
19:10It's really wonderful to have an environment like that.
19:13Really, there's an endless use to linen.
19:17What trends do you foresee in the industry?
19:20Well, we do see a push towards
19:22a little bit more traditional.
19:24Believe it or not, the new generation of designers
19:27seems to be gravitating back to some of those things
19:29that we grew up with in the 70s and 80s.
19:32More trim, for example.
19:35More interest in chintzes
19:36and a little bit more formal looks.
19:39I think to celebrate an interior
19:41and have a departure from the more lived-in looks
19:44that we've had in the last 10 or 15 years.
19:47I certainly think that people are craving
19:49a bit of color right now
19:51but it will always be the traditional neutrals.
19:54It's just a shift versus gray
19:57and now we're seeing more warm browns
19:59and warmer, comfy tones coming into play.
20:03So we see those as the main trends.
20:06Anything else you'd like to share?
20:08I think this has really been such a nice opportunity, Laurence
20:12and I really thank you for inviting me to talk with you.
20:15Getting the education about natural fibers out
20:19is so important and I hope my passion
20:22for this product that is sustainable
20:25comes across and inspires you to investigate more
20:28if you don't know about natural fibers
20:30or about linen or about Libico.
20:32And go to the SFC website.
20:34You can see more about companies that do walk the walk
20:37and invest in this area
20:40and just embrace living in a healthy environment at home.
20:44Now that we want these places to be safe havens
20:48for all of us and our families,
20:50I think it's more important than ever
20:52for us as consumers to drive that product development
20:55like I said before.
20:57If you don't ask,
20:59manufacturers more than likely won't make it.
21:02And so it's up to us to make sure
21:04we're asking for these things that we want
21:06and we know are better for us and our health.
21:09And what is Libico's legacy?
21:12The legacy is really looking to be a part
21:16of a linen and flax community.
21:18Our owner Raymond is a phenomenal advocate
21:22for the industry and making sure
21:25that the health of Belgian linen,
21:27the truly artisanal methodology
21:30and investment in the techniques and looks
21:33and design is really a part of what he does every day.
21:38Obviously coupled with advancing certain technologies
21:42and looking for the next trends and everything else.
21:45But I think the legacy really is to be able
21:48to pass this artisanal product and craft
21:52down to the next generation
21:54that I think our legacy will be known for.
21:58And what a beautiful legacy.
22:00Thank you, Catherine.
22:01It's been such an interesting conversation.
22:05Thanks to Libico's artisanal farming
22:08and processing techniques,
22:10their transparency about their methods,
22:13the multiple standard certifications
22:15they have earned as testament to their efforts
22:18and carbon neutral processes,
22:21Libico has proven themselves a successful pillar
22:24of a circular furnishings community.
22:27We hope that Libico continues to lead the way
22:30so other fibre and textile companies
22:33can follow in their footsteps
22:35and embrace more sustainable, circular
22:38and regenerative practices in their own companies.

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