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Lenzing Group in Austria is a pioneer in sustainable fibers, leading the way toward circular practices while producing high-quality fabrics and making lives comfortable, beautiful and responsible.

About Chez Laurence:
Designer Laurence Carr meets manufacturers and brands who are employing circular, regenerative, and sustainable practices. See how they're seeking to change the end-of-life concept with eco-friendly techniques.

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00:00🎵
00:29The Lansing Group is an international group with its headquarters in Lansing, Austria.
00:34It is a true pioneer in the sustainable fibres industry, leading the charge toward truly
00:39circular practices, while producing high-quality fabrics with a wide range of end-users that
00:46make consumers' lives more comfortable, beautiful and responsible.
00:50With their hallmark fabrics, they have used innovative new approaches to produce materials
00:56that have an incredibly low environmental impact, while constantly seeking out new ways
01:02to move the industry as a whole closer to circularity.
01:05Let's meet Trisha Carey.
01:07Hi Trisha!
01:08Hi Laurence!
01:09How are you?
01:10I'm great, thank you!
01:13Thank you for being with us.
01:14It's wonderful to be here and the work that you do in educating and spreading information
01:20around what is happening with circularity is amazing, so thank you for having me.
01:24Wonderful to have you.
01:26Would you please introduce yourself briefly?
01:28My name is Trisha Carey and I am Director of Global Business Development for Apparel
01:33at Lansing Fibres and I am based in New York City and have worked with man-made cellulosic
01:40fibres for more than 20 years.
01:42What inspired you to get into the textile industry initially?
01:46Well growing up, I was the youngest of three girls and I used to get hand-me-downs all
01:52the time that never quite fit me right and my mother would let nothing go to waste and
01:57so I started sewing and really took up an interest in textiles.
02:02And then over the years, it was more understanding around textiles and the art and craft that
02:08went into weaving and knitting and especially also on the printing and design side, learning
02:15that textiles are really the foundation for any garment and starting with the right ingredients
02:20is so important.
02:22That's what got me started in textiles and then as I went into college, I went to Marywood
02:28University as well as FIT and there I took several courses on textile to understand the
02:34construction.
02:36I started working in the textile industry while I was at FIT and really enjoyed the
02:41people that were a part of the textile industry.
02:44My first job after FIT was in the textile industry and I've remained ever since.
02:50And how does that differ from what drives you now?
02:54Definitely what drives me now has evolved because in the mid-1990s, there really wasn't
03:00much of an interest around sustainability and how to lower impacts for the textiles
03:06and the garments that we buy.
03:09And over the years, the questions continue to evolve.
03:12In the very beginning when I started in 1998 with marketing of Tencel Liacell, no one even
03:19really asked where it was coming from.
03:22No one was questioning raw materials, production process, end of life of the garment.
03:29And now it's become so much more transparent.
03:33The complexity of the questions continues to grow every year.
03:37And so it shifted from that art and craft of textiles, which is still very much there,
03:44but now we've added on layers around lowering environmental impacts, what is the social
03:50impacts too of raw materials, as well as innovation and technology.
03:55I really see that over the past several years, all of this has merged together.
04:01Tell me more about Lansing's commitment to sustainability.
04:05For Lansing, environmentally responsible sourcing of raw materials and production has always
04:12been core to what we do and being positioned in the middle of Europe in a beautiful tourist
04:19region near the outer sea lake.
04:23This has been really paramount to everything for Lansing.
04:27Over the years, it's really been around improving on the environmental impact and being able
04:33to measure more.
04:36This was also inspired by many of the questions that we get from our direct customers, which
04:41are yarn spinners, as well as through retailers and brands.
04:45So for Lansing, we've always been very concerned about our environmental impact.
04:51Lansing is a member of the Sustainable Furnishing Council, and we meet the criteria of the FSC scorecard.
04:58So what circular practices are you most proud to have adopted at Lansing?
05:04At Lansing, I like to refer to it that we have small circles and big circles.
05:10In a small circle way, we can look at the fact that our production process of our tensile
05:14lyocell fiber is closed loop.
05:17So we reuse the solvents at a rate of over 99.5%.
05:23This is a huge environmental savings, and this is truly a part of the innovation of
05:28lyocell technology.
05:31The efficiencies that we have in the production process of tensile lyocell bring circularity
05:36right into how we produce the fiber.
05:39We can then look at circularity with the fact that we start with our renewable raw
05:44material from trees.
05:46So coming from nature, we also can go back into nature because our fibers are biodegradable
05:53and compostable.
05:55That's another circle that we offer.
05:58And then the latest technology that we introduced in 2017 is our Refibra technology.
06:05This is where we upcycle cotton waste in order to make a new tensile lyocell fiber.
06:12We mix upcycled cotton waste with wood pulp, and then we add a solvent to the pulp.
06:19So it becomes sort of a honey type consistency, which then we extrude through spinnerets.
06:25And then we have a new fiber, which is still soft, strong, but even more sustainable because
06:31of circularity that is a part of the raw material.
06:35So we address circularity right through from production, raw material, and even in new
06:41innovations.
06:43What is Ecovero Viscose?
06:46Lensing Ecovero Viscose is our traceable viscose.
06:50What we do is when we have the wood pulp, we add a solvent.
06:55In that solvent stage, we actually add a fiber identification.
07:00Then we extrude the fiber.
07:02We are then able to track that fiber, whether it's at yarn, fabric, or garment stages.
07:09We use this fiber identification with our retailer and brand partners, but then they
07:14can utilize our branding with any of the fabrics.
07:18And they have the assurance that we are using responsible production processes and raw material.
07:25What is Tensile Modal?
07:27Our Tensile Modal fibers come from our integrated site at our headquarters in Lensing, Austria.
07:35Tensile Modal primarily comes from beech trees.
07:38It is also processed in a similar way where we have wood pulp, solvent, and then the fiber.
07:44It is used in a variety of different applications, and it also is under our e-branding system
07:50for fabric certifications and for licensing.
07:55Let's talk about Tensile, which is Lensing's flagship brand for textiles.
08:00And how is it used for a variety of highly specialized applications and the benefits
08:05of Tensile's fibers?
08:08Tensile Lyocell first came into the market in 1992.
08:12During that time, there was a lot of innovation that needed to happen in the finishing process.
08:17Since that time, we have a variety of end-use applications.
08:21In textiles, it's used in everything from denim to knits, wovens.
08:25You can find it also in shoes, like in Allbirds.
08:29And then we have also uses in non-wovens, so facial wipes, cleaning wipes.
08:36Even in packaging, we find Tensile Lyocell.
08:39So there's a variety of different end-use applications for Tensile Lyocell.
08:44What's the Lensing approach to waste management and designing waste out of your processes?
08:49We look at really the three R's, reduce, reuse, recycle.
08:55This is important within all of our businesses.
08:57We utilize as much as possible our trees that we purchase, so we do not have any of our
09:03own plantations.
09:05But for the trees, we have what we call a biorefinery process, where we utilize all
09:11of the tree.
09:13We utilize the cellulose in order to make pulp.
09:16Then we also have the byproducts, which are utilized in other products like xylose, xylitol,
09:21which is a wood sugar, acetic acid, furfural.
09:25These are all byproducts from the pulping process.
09:29And then we also utilize the tree that is burnt in order to have fuel for the plant.
09:35So from a renewable energy standpoint, we are able to then bring that into our whole
09:41process within biorefinery.
09:43Our fibers are also biodegradable and compostable.
09:47These are certifications that we have, biodegradable in marine as well as in soil.
09:53And also the compostability, which in the past several years has been more at the attention
09:59of the consumer.
10:00And how does Lensing measure its impact?
10:03Do you have any statistics you can share about the measurable effects of your eco-friendly
10:08policies?
10:10Lensing can measure its impacts through an MSI called the Higg Index.
10:15It was established by the Sustainable Apparel Coalition.
10:18This is very common in the apparel and textile industry.
10:22On the Higg Index, anyone, retailer, brand, supply chain partner, anyone can go onto the
10:29Higg Index and look at the scoring of tensile lyocell versus generic lyocell.
10:36And here you can see that the environmental impacts according to the scorecard of the
10:40Higg Index is 50% less.
10:43So half of what you have from generic lyocell.
10:48This is one way of measuring the impact of our fibers.
10:51You can also look at how we measure the production process and the closed loop circularity that
10:57we have with our solvent.
10:59That's a rate of 99.5%.
11:02Additionally, there are measurements around our carbon footprint and our initiatives around
11:07reducing carbon.
11:09And that is measured through science-based targets.
11:12In 2019, Lensing had approved science-based targets.
11:18This is an incredible initiative to really drive industries across all different categories
11:24forward as we look at climate reduction.
11:27Can you tell us how you are reducing consumer waste?
11:31Globally, there's more than 50 million tons of textile and apparel waste that is discarded
11:37every year.
11:38There's about 16.9 million tons of waste in the United States alone.
11:45Lensing looks at ways that we can support initiatives around reducing that consumer
11:50waste through programs like we have with our tensile lyocell with ReFibra technology.
11:56Here we work with brand partners from around the world in order to work with collectors
12:02and sorters and processors to bring back the waste and utilize it to make new fibers.
12:09ReFibra technology now uses a mix of 30% post-industrial and post-consumer waste, mixing that with
12:16our wood pulp in order to make a new fiber.
12:20What further circular practices are you hoping to include in the future?
12:25We really look at ways we can reduce our carbon footprint through climate action.
12:31That is key for lensing overall.
12:34Also, I think this is really an initiative that we have to address as an industry together.
12:40We also are looking at circularity and the collaborations that need to happen around
12:45circularity.
12:46This is essential.
12:48We have to view ourselves no longer as a supply chain selling to the next partner, but really
12:54looking at it as a supply network.
12:57We have to change.
12:58There is no longer the need to continue to develop new raw materials when we have so
13:04much already in circulation.
13:07In many cases, garments don't even get to the consumer to purchase.
13:12There's so much waste involved through our whole process.
13:15At Lensing, we looked at ways that we can support our partners to reduce this waste.
13:21We also look at ways around digitalization within the supply chain.
13:26Some of the concerns that I have in the future are around processing this waste, what can
13:32be scaled properly.
13:35Also, looking at the greenwashing that happens in our industry.
13:39I think these are some of the major concerns that we need to address and we need to have
13:44a common language as we discuss some of these challenges together as an industry.
13:51What textiles are being made specifically for the interiors industry?
13:55Our full portfolio of fibers can be used in the home market.
14:00Primarily, we see Tencel Liacell being used.
14:04And Tencel is used in applications from towels to bedding to rugs, upholstery, even filled
14:11products.
14:13With this wide range of end-use applications, you can find Tencel Liacell in many of your
14:19favorite retailers and brands.
14:21In the home market, they are also seeking products that have a lower environmental footprint
14:27and still have the aesthetics that consumers are seeking.
14:31Right now, with everything we're going through, being at home for a longer period of time,
14:35there's much more interest from the consumer around having proper home products that express
14:40their lifestyle and make it easy.
14:42You can find out more information about our products at Tencel.com.
14:47You can also find us on Instagram, Facebook, and if you'd like to learn more about our
14:53sustainability initiatives, you can find that at Lensing.com.
14:57So what trends do you foresee in the industry at large as we move into the future?
15:03The textile industry is definitely moving forward with utilizing more innovations, digitalization.
15:12I think this time has been a global experiment for us on ways that we still stay connected
15:18and develop products.
15:20Overall, the apparel industry is over $400 billion industry in the United States.
15:27With this massive size of the industry, we really need to look at ways that we can change.
15:33Transparency is definitely one way.
15:37Consumers are asking more questions about their products, who is making them, where
15:41are they being made.
15:44Digitalization continues everywhere from e-commerce to even knowing more about where the products
15:51are coming from and tracing it through.
15:54And also you see that there's a connection of values.
15:58The values range from social values to the values of different companies.
16:03And now we see that the consumer wants to connect those values in making their own purchases.
16:09What worries me now about what we see happening in the industry is related to three areas.
16:14The first is around education.
16:17I think the industry as well as consumers need to have a greater education around their
16:21products.
16:23We need to also have commitments.
16:26This is commitments through every player within our structure of textiles and apparel, especially
16:33on the brand level, having these commitments from brands in order to make that change.
16:39And finally, I think we need to have more legislation around what is happening with
16:43textiles and apparel, especially regarding the waste.
16:48If we can educate, have the commitments and look at legislation, I think we can definitely
16:53use 2020 and the whole decade of action to really implement the changes that are needed.
17:01How do you wish this company to be remembered?
17:05The Lenzing legacy is one about responsible production as well as social concern.
17:12For Lenzing, being at the core of everything we do is lowering our environmental impacts.
17:20I think the legacy for Lenzing will also always be around driving innovation and being a leader
17:26within the industry.
17:29Thank you, Tricia.
17:30This has been a great pleasure to learn about Tencel and Lenzing Fibers and to have you
17:37in this interview.
17:40Lenzing demonstrates the power of commitment to circularity in the textile industry with
17:45stunning benchmarks such as reusing 99.9% of its solvents, zero tree waste via bio-refinery
17:54efforts, energy self-sufficient facilities and upcycling 30% post-industrial and post-consumer
18:02waste thanks to their innovative Refibra technology.
18:07Imagine a world where the 50 million tons of textile and apparel waste can live again
18:13through progressive technologies like Lenzing's Refibra.
18:17How many trees might we be able to plant in the place of all that waste?
18:21The fact that the Tencel Fiber Lyocell produces 50% less environmental impact than generic
18:28Lyocell is proof positive that if more companies in the textile and fiber industries embraced
18:35circular strategies with even half the dedication that Lenzing shows, the earth could be a much
18:42healthier place.

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