Category
🦄
CreativityTranscript
00:00 Hi American salon, thank you for joining us today. I'm Courtney bright
00:03 I'm the social and digital media editor at American salon, and I'm here today with one of American salons favorites Sally Rodgers
00:11 Thank you so much Courtney. Thank you for joining everyone. Thank you so much
00:14 So Sally's gonna be doing cutting how to throughout the video. We'll try to answer questions along the way
00:19 If you're rewatching this on replay just know we're no longer live anymore, and we'll try to get you to your questions later Sally
00:25 I'm gonna hand it over to you. Thank you so much Courtney. I appreciate that
00:29 So good morning everyone. I'm Sally Rogerson
00:32 I have an education company called SR education, and I'm so excited here to be doing
00:38 Facebook live on American Salons Facebook page, so thank you for tuning in
00:44 I'd like to also share that we're in New York City this morning, and we are here in the Davines
00:50 HQ so very nice. Thank you so much Davines for having us and
00:56 What I want to do is talk this morning about
00:59 Disconnection and I think that disconnection is a very important part of salon
01:05 Work now I remember when I first started
01:09 Disconnection was definitely something really weird and wonderful
01:13 It was like the crazy thing that you did on your clients hair and sure
01:18 Disconnection can be used in a way. That's more for a
01:23 Creative look and something a little bit more exaggerated
01:26 But it can also be used very very successfully in the salon to solve problems
01:33 And also in a commercial way to either remove weight or to make hair move a little bit more if you are not familiar
01:41 With disconnection let me explain what disconnection is and also what disconnection does
01:47 To me I think of disconnection as being our fourth
01:51 technique so line
01:53 graduation layering and then
01:56 Disconnection I think you learn the basics of the how to cut hair line
02:02 Graduation and layering and then to me to elevate yourself and to really kind of have your work stand apart
02:09 In the salon you definitely need to learn
02:12 Disconnection how to use it when to use it when it's appropriate to use it so let's talk about what is
02:19 Disconnection disconnection is an area within the haircut that does not connect
02:25 through the use of a guideline
02:28 What that means is a classic haircut
02:31 Typically connects in everywhere right so if I pull it all out it connects in somehow if you work with a
02:40 Disconnection you will have an area wherever it is on the haircut that does not connect
02:47 For example, and I'm going to show you I'm going to actually do a little bit of cutting and show you how to disconnect
02:52 For example if on this haircut. I took the underneath shorter
02:58 The top area was longer the longer hair would lay over the top
03:04 And there would be like a negative space now in this area this would allow the longer head to move
03:11 Because it would have a space in which to move in this is very very nice
03:17 for
03:18 Slimming head down is really really nice to create movement within a haircut that you don't get just from
03:26 Pointing or slicing or freehand you know it's a different kind of feeling I use disconnection a lot on clients with a lot of hair
03:34 Medium to thicker hair
03:37 Bigger hair and hair that just needs to move a little bit more
03:41 You know it can be used very successfully in the salon, and it's really really
03:47 Interesting to see your work elevate to see your work become very different once you start to use disconnection
03:55 I would like to share with you just a quick use of
03:58 Disconnection and also to show you how I would use it on a beautiful long-haired client
04:05 To start with I have sectioned off a large triangle on the top area and I've gone
04:13 Underneath the crown so I've taken out a large triangle
04:17 This works very successfully on long hair the underneath area. I'm going to simply take a
04:25 vertical section
04:27 Lift the hair up, and we are going to keep the length here
04:32 Take some of the weight out from the underneath area and then disconnect and drop the top over it
04:38 So I'm going to lift this hair up lift my elbow up and take out some of this weight here on the corner
04:47 Without losing the length so you can either slide up through there, or you can cut more cleanly
04:54 But I'm going to take out that big corner on the top area so the first thing
05:00 I'm going to do is turn my hand around and then cut from short to long
05:05 So it hasn't affected the length at all
05:09 But I will be taking some weight out from the bottom
05:13 When you cut on this angle you will find that your layers just melt in
05:20 You don't see that big ledge on there. It just disappears into the haircut
05:26 What I'm going to do is simply come around the head to the mastoid process and just
05:31 Take out that little bit of weight all the way around without
05:36 affecting the bottom length
05:40 So bringing it right up
05:43 I'm cutting it cleanly
05:45 But because of my finger angle it will fall very very soft
05:51 So continuing to just bring that hair up, so I'm putting in
05:55 That little area on the underneath first
06:00 Slimming that hair down on the top maintaining her length. Once I get to the sides and I get to the mastoid process
06:07 I know that the hairline jumps up from here all the way up to here
06:13 So I have to now change my finger angle come up really high
06:18 I'm still connecting to my layers through here
06:22 But I am going to lift the outline up way higher and this will give me an opportunity
06:28 To be able to layer the sides, but still maintain the length
06:33 So I'm going to find my guide at the top of the layers through there. I'm now going to make a steeper angle
06:42 So I'm really going very very steep on the angle that allows me to
06:48 Take away weight, but to not remove
06:53 The bottom left this will go all the way through into the front area big big big big big angle
07:01 The higher I get with my elbow the longer my length can be at the side
07:07 So all the way through to the front
07:12 Now
07:14 Once I've done that area I'll also
07:18 Go into the other side in a moment, but you can see
07:22 Very loose very cool very modern
07:26 Long hair I've taken this underneath area pretty short
07:30 But that is not going to be the lens on the whole surface of the haircut in a moment
07:37 I'm going to drop the top down cut this on a new lens so it's disconnected
07:41 It's going to fall down and lay over it and give a really cool loose movement
07:48 So doing the same thing on the other side now
07:51 I'm just going to get this in real quick so I can show you guys the disconnection and
07:56 You know this is all about loosening hair up in a haircut. You can have you know ten
08:03 Disconnections you can have one disconnection to me
08:07 I'm all about trying to make sure that I do a haircut that suits the client
08:14 It's all about the consultation
08:16 so ultimately
08:19 Your disconnections are going to be based on
08:23 people's image
08:25 And also you know what's suitable for them to wear it's not always
08:30 Suitable to disconnect everyone's hair your really classic lady that wears a beautiful swingy bob
08:37 She might not need a disconnection
08:39 She also might not want a disconnection if she's shampooing her hair and finds all of these long and short pieces in it
08:47 It might not be suitable for her
08:49 However you do have a lot of clients that want their hair to move they also
08:57 You know with their hair texture and density they also want to make sure
09:02 That they have a great haircut that grows out really well, so you can see
09:07 Even though it's loose and pretty it's still being cut very very cleanly and strongly
09:13 So I'm taking out this top area now
09:16 so my triangle that I had is going to be dropped down and over and
09:22 You can see
09:24 She already has some shorter layers. I'm going to incorporate this and that's why I took my
09:31 Triangle lower down I took it lower down so I would have enough hair to drop over the top
09:38 Okay, so let's have a look now at my underneath hair
09:42 That's the length that I cut in on my underneath layers, okay?
09:46 I'm now going to choose a length from the top area
09:51 That is going to disconnect and stay longer and actually fall over the top
09:57 Because of the layers in her hair this is going to fit in pretty well
10:03 I'm not going to have to do too much, but what I would do is go through
10:07 split the back crown from the front area and
10:12 Work with the crown separately, so I'm not going to lift the crown area up you see my underneath disconnection through there
10:19 I'm now going to come all the way past that that's going to drop out
10:23 I'm going to come through into an angle that goes from short to long and
10:29 I don't want the crown to go too short. That's the whole point
10:32 I'm just going to work an angle from short to long when it drops down it will fall over and it will disconnect
10:39 But it will melt in I want this to be a very
10:43 commercial
10:45 disconnection
10:46 I'm really all about
10:49 haircuts that you can use in the salon haircuts that you can use every day that make you money on your clients and
10:56 You know disconnection when used correctly is so so so important for your salon work
11:04 So just coming through now into the crown dropping that over and what I'm getting is a really cool loose
11:14 Textured haircut that a lot of girls like to wear at the moment. It's very easy
11:19 It doesn't feel heavily styled. It doesn't feel kind of overly done
11:25 And I think that that's a really pretty look right now, so coming through into the crown
11:32 all the way around and
11:35 connecting that into my new guide that I created in the top and
11:41 Then this top area is really up to you how much of this you want to keep
11:48 So I'm going to come through I like some of it moving around
11:51 I love the movement that I'm getting but I am going to come through from short to long and
11:58 Connect it in that way. I think I'll probably only get like two sections
12:03 Something like that
12:05 through there
12:10 Just bring everything into the middle it's pretty much run out now got a few long and short pieces that I like
12:16 So I just cut off the pieces that I like and I keep the pieces
12:20 No, I don't I keep the pieces that I like this
12:23 That's right, and I cut off the pieces that I don't like so don't feel like you've got you know follow this hardcore
12:31 Haircut you can get to the top and start to look at it more visually and decide. What is it that you like?
12:39 What is it that you don't like?
12:41 I like to put a little bit of product in there. I'm using the hair refresher and
12:47 Then I like to just brush that in start to move the hair around either with your fingers or with a brush
12:55 And just get a more lived in look
12:59 So just to
13:08 Review a little bit
13:10 disconnection
13:11 super super super
13:13 important
13:14 Technique within your salon work. I'll give you another example of when I would use it in the salon all day long
13:21 I would use it with a client that comes in with a lot of hair
13:25 You cut the surface down because you need to remove weight
13:30 So you want to layer it right if you cut the surface down too short
13:34 It starts to poof up like a big hat we've all done it and then you have to kind of point into it a lot
13:40 And you know, it just doesn't sit right. It's too big the hairs kind of angry
13:45 So what we need to do is that client needs to be
13:48 Disconnected on that top area just like I did a big triangle take the weight out from the underneath
13:56 Take your lens and choose a new lens on the top
14:00 Let it drop over and you will achieve something that's long and
14:04 Slimmer for the client a lot of clients really love that look and that's something that they respond very well to
14:11 Ultimately the more you disconnect your haircut you the more you will see it
14:18 So the more obvious it will be the closer together the disconnections are the more commercial
14:25 It's going to be so when you're choosing how much to disconnect
14:29 It's really based on that fact if I've got a wild person in my chair
14:35 I'm going to disconnect a lot because I'm going to see it more if I've got someone that's more commercial in my chair
14:41 I'm going to disconnect less because it's going to be easier to wear and not as obvious to the eye
14:48 This is a technique that we talk about a lot on
14:55 Some of my haircut classes so my three-day comprehensive cutting program with SR education
15:02 We talk about disconnection and also we have a two-day creative class that really
15:07 Goes into the shapes of how you disconnect how you section off when to use it
15:14 why long hair medium hair short hair, so please come see me at SallyRogerson.com and
15:21 You know we'd love to see you in class soon. I also I'm going to be doing a lot of live work in my new
15:27 Virtual classroom, so if you'd like to join me and learn a bit more about SR education
15:32 please go to SallyRogerson.com and
15:35 Join me every week where I'll be doing full haircuts lectures and all that good stuff
15:40 So I hope you enjoyed it was that good Courtney?
15:44 I'm going to pop back in for those of you that are just joining us. I'm Courtney Bright
15:47 I'm the social and digital mediator at American Salon. We are here with American Salon favorite Sally Rogerson
15:54 You can come back to our Facebook page and rewatch this video at any time you now know where to find Sally online
16:00 Where can we find you on Instagram? You can find me as Sally Rogerson and also
16:05 My Facebook page as well
16:07 Sally Rogerson, and you know where to find American Salon on Facebook
16:11 You can find us on Instagram at American underscore salon, and we'll see you soon for another Facebook live