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00:00 Let me know when we're live.
00:05 Okay, so good evening everybody.
00:08 Welcome to the Allalong Unplugged from Montreal.
00:11 We're at Pure Salon in association with Aura Distribution for Davines.
00:19 And what I'm doing, I've got this beautiful young lady and I'm cutting what I consider
00:24 going to be quite a cool little shape and I hope you guys like it.
00:27 I've pre-cut some of the haircut and I'll go back to what I've done so far.
00:31 At the moment I'm working diagonal sections and I'm basically working a triangular cutting line,
00:37 working from shorter internally to longer externally.
00:40 So what will happen is the shape will be quite soft just over the ear.
00:44 I've used quite a lot of oil milk, quite a lot, so you'll see it building up and going a little bit white.
00:51 But the idea behind that is the hair is so dehydrated because of previous colours that it needs that extra moisture.
00:59 And oil milk really gives me that extra moisture and that control.
01:03 You can see the shape is going to wrap itself back slightly over the ear.
01:08 My sectioning pattern is diagonal.
01:11 My number system is 1, 1 to 2, 2 to 3, 3 to 4 and so forth.
01:19 So I'm elevating every single section while I'm working.
01:24 Again, for those of you who are regular unplugged watchers, thank you for joining us.
01:32 And for those of you who are new, thank you for trying to experience the Ayalon Unplugged, our pop-up unplugged.
01:39 Feel free to ask me any questions.
01:42 I have the amazing, I'm very honoured to have the amazing Mrs. Anna Paciuto on the camera.
01:50 Anna, do you want to say hi?
01:52 Guys, we've got a small audience here.
01:54 Guys, do you want to say hi?
01:55 Hi everyone.
01:56 Hello.
01:57 We have an audience.
01:59 Okay, so I'm now connecting into the shape that I've cut in the back.
02:03 So let me talk to you about what I've done in the back, okay?
02:06 I came through the back, took a section from the forehead to the crown, crown to the nape.
02:11 And I took diagonal sections, building the weight behind the ear.
02:15 I did that on both sides, okay?
02:17 And I've carved one external shape out for now.
02:21 I'm going to do this one for you guys to see how I did it.
02:24 And then the main thing I'm doing now is I'm using my triangular cutting line and I'm going to blend it into my graduation behind the ear.
02:31 So that way the shape becomes this beautiful little haircut that wraps around to behind the ear.
02:36 And notice, if the hair is damp and in control, if I hold my thumb here, it just secures the hair and it allows me to work clean without any sectioning clips.
02:46 If you can hear me okay on the Facebook Live, please just send Anna a little thumbs up so that I know that I'm talking loud enough.
02:56 Or just write a little message and let us know.
02:59 Gianluca Grechi.
03:01 Gianluca.
03:02 Gianluca's watching.
03:03 Cool. Welcome, Gianluca.
03:04 I'm from Italy.
03:05 Ci senti Gianluca?
03:07 So if anybody has any questions, feel free to ask me.
03:12 And I'm just going to, Anna, you just ask me as and when.
03:16 I'm just going to keep describing what I'm doing and why I'm doing it, okay?
03:19 So my body, look at my body position.
03:21 I start at the front here.
03:23 And this is something I've been really focused on with the team this week.
03:26 When you're starting, you want to try and work as much as you can opposite your section.
03:32 So when I'm cutting the hair in front of the ear, what I'm doing is I'm basically standing opposite my section, okay?
03:40 Now, as I'm working through the shape and I need to work in the back, if you watch carefully, I'm going to zoom into my feet.
03:46 I close my legs.
03:47 So this leg's still stationary.
03:49 And then I open my leg and I move across this way.
03:51 So I don't lose track of where I am.
03:53 So I've only moved over one step.
03:56 And then again, I close my legs.
03:59 Open my legs.
04:00 And I'm at opposite my section again to connect my shape in the back, okay?
04:06 Now, to go back to my original starting position, I close my legs, open my legs, close my legs, open my legs.
04:12 I know exactly where I am to start every single time.
04:15 And I'm not getting confused in where I'm at and what I'm doing, okay?
04:20 I'm going to do another maybe two or three sections and I should be finished this particular zone.
04:26 I'm combing the hair from the underneath.
04:28 The reason I'm combing the hair from the underneath is that it helps me encourage my elevation.
04:33 So again, when I'm cutting opposite, I close my legs and I open my legs and I move.
04:37 That way I protect my spine.
04:39 I'm not bending.
04:41 And I'm constantly working with the hair out from its base.
04:48 So we've been in Montreal now for -- this is our third day, fourth day.
04:54 And we did a fantastic event with the Pure team on -- when was it?
05:02 Saturday, Sunday?
05:04 On Sunday.
05:05 On Sunday.
05:06 Yeah, we did a -- it was a great event, great show.
05:08 We had -- what?
05:10 Fabulous Quebec team.
05:12 Yeah.
05:13 We had about 400 -- no, 500 people turned up.
05:16 We had over 500 people.
05:18 We were expecting 300.
05:20 And at 300, we would have been ecstatic.
05:23 All in all, I think we were well over 520.
05:26 That's fantastic.
05:27 We couldn't start the show because there was a large, a very, very long lineup outside waiting to get in.
05:34 It was a great event, really good event.
05:36 So if you've got any -- if anyone's watching and they're French from Quebec and you want to ask any questions in French, feel free to do that.
05:45 Feel free to ask me away.
05:49 I'm coming up to my last section now, and I'm moving my body around my shape.
05:54 And, guys, if any of you in here want to ask me a question, don't be embarrassed.
05:58 Just ask me, yeah?
05:59 Okay.
06:01 Now, the key here is to make sure I'm connecting in properly.
06:04 That way my shape becomes much more fluid.
06:08 And I really want my shape to feel like a compact haircut.
06:15 I'm not trying to make it loose and soft.
06:18 I'm really trying to make my shape quite solid, quite strong in regards to the technique of the shape.
06:26 You can see that hair brushes back nicely.
06:29 And what I'm going to do, because I've used oil milk -- so this is oil milk, everybody.
06:33 For those of you who have never used Davines before, this is oil milk.
06:36 Now, you don't normally use it like a cutting lotion, but you can do.
06:41 If you use too much, on fine hair it can be quite heavy.
06:45 But on hair which is quite dehydrated, like this one, it's definitely, definitely a good product to use
06:52 because it allows you to really, really get some hydration back in the hair.
06:56 Now, what's going to happen is I'm going to leave that.
06:58 I'm going to comb it into place, and I'm going to let that dry by itself.
07:03 So what will happen is I won't have to blow-dry that.
07:08 Okay, now I'm going to work on my external shape just to give me some control through this area here in the back.
07:14 So what I'm going to do, I'm going to carve the shape out, and I'm going to use the clipper to bend all the hair.
07:21 So let me show you how to do that.
07:25 What I do is I like to support the clipper with my finger, okay?
07:29 And then I basically carve the shape out exactly how I want it.
07:34 So I visualize my shape, and I carve it out.
07:40 Don't worry about the cleanliness of the line yet. Just worry about the shape for now.
07:45 The shape is the key.
07:47 Comb the hair down, and the hair will fall away.
07:52 Once you've got the basic shape in, then you can go in and start cleaning up and get rid of any excess.
08:00 It's nice and nice and smooth.
08:02 This will give my haircut a stability.
08:07 Like that.
08:10 And the hair away.
08:13 And again.
08:16 Once you've carved the shape out of the corner of the clipper, you take all the excess away.
08:22 And what that does, it will give me a nice, defined look.
08:28 Now once I've taken the hair away, the key here is to remove all the excess so I can see what's left.
08:40 Then I'm going to centralize my body.
08:44 I'm going to basically shift my weight, so that way I am symmetrical.
08:51 And I'm going to use any turn of this around, and you can see me, okay?
08:55 I'm going to basically use the chipping technique, which is basically using the corner of my scissor.
09:05 And I'm going to carve away any excess graduation that I might have on my line.
09:11 Another thing that I'm doing, and I have the pleasure of being able to do right now,
09:17 which is something I don't often have the luxury of, especially when you're on stage,
09:22 is I have the luxury to use the mirror.
09:25 So I use my mirror, and I look at my shape.
09:28 I look at how it sits, and I understand how the shape sits.
09:33 I tilt the head down, and you can see all of the shape starting to dry into position.
09:41 Okay, now I've done my external shape, I'm going to go internally again.
09:47 This time, my zone is going to come much more curved, so I'm going to go far up into the crown.
09:52 Okay, so from this point, I'm going to go all the way around.
09:56 You can see the product in the hair, by the way I'm combing it,
10:00 so you can see how much I'm trying to hydrate the hair.
10:03 Okay, I don't want the hair to be quite fluffy, and at the moment,
10:07 it does have a tendency to go dry very, very quickly.
10:14 So I'm grooming the excess hair.
10:16 A little tip when you're doing this, okay, when you're working the shape,
10:21 get it and really comb it, and use the back of the comb to push against the scalp.
10:26 So you get the hair, and you comb it down like that,
10:29 and use your hand to make sure you're super clean.
10:32 Okay, like that.
10:33 There's a question.
10:35 Okay, who's the question for?
10:36 Marina.
10:37 Marina, hi Marina. Where's Marina from?
10:39 Does she do nuts? Does she write?
10:40 No, she doesn't write where she's from.
10:42 Okay, hi Marina.
10:43 And she's asking, was the back a graduation?
10:46 Yes, so the back area was graduated.
10:49 What I did is I sectioned off from the center crown to the center nape.
10:55 I took diagonal sections, okay.
10:58 My number system was 1, 2 to 1, 3 to 2, 4 to 3, 5 to 4, so I built my weight.
11:04 So my vertical shape is triangular, and my horizontal shape is triangular.
11:08 I did that on both sides, and then I came through the front,
11:11 taking diagonal sections with a triangular cutting line,
11:14 so it was shorter internally to longer externally,
11:17 and I worked on the base all the way around,
11:20 and then connected it through to the back.
11:22 So even though I started off quite triangular with my cutting line,
11:25 as I met with my length behind the ear,
11:28 I just rounded it off just to take the corner off it, okay.
11:31 So my number system through the side was 1 to 2, 2 to 3, 3 to 4, all the way around,
11:37 which means my horizontal shape was round, because I'm working on the base,
11:42 and my vertical shape is triangular because of the angle of my cutting line, okay.
11:47 Marina is from Italy.
11:49 Marina, thank you for your question.
11:51 It's very nice of you.
11:52 I love questions because it makes me feel like I'm not just talking to a phone.
11:56 [laughter]
11:57 Okay, so, yeah, I'm not crazy.
12:00 So on this side, I'm going to go slightly flatter.
12:03 Now I have to be careful because I know this hair goes spiky when you take it down,
12:07 so I'm going to work vertical sections, okay.
12:10 So I'm closer to the vertical now.
12:12 I'm still obviously diagonal because of the hairline,
12:15 but if you look, I'm not completely vertical.
12:18 I'm not completely diagonal.
12:20 Remember, pure diagonal would be this.
12:23 Vertical is only one vertical, and there's only one horizontal,
12:26 but there's so many diagonals, okay.
12:30 So my diagonal is following my hairline.
12:33 So my hairline, you can see, is diagonal.
12:36 So basically, my section is diagonal closer to the vertical, okay.
12:42 That way, I'm controlling my vertical shape a lot more than I am my horizontal shape.
12:49 And that will allow me to work really super clean.
12:52 Somebody recognized the model, and they said in French, "C'est Valérie."
12:57 Oh, Valérie.
13:00 And that was Alexandre.
13:04 Is that the boyfriend? I hope he's not going to kill me for cutting your hair too short.
13:08 No, he's my teacher.
13:09 Aha, okay.
13:11 Come really close, Elamor.
13:12 Yep.
13:13 Look at this. Look at this bit here, guys.
13:15 Look. Look how flexible that skin is.
13:18 I mean, that's super flexible, isn't it?
13:20 Yeah.
13:21 So when you're cutting the shape, we're going to talk a little bit about tension.
13:24 It's a perfect opportunity to talk about tension, okay.
13:27 So tension is the amount of pressure placed on the hair whilst being cut, okay.
13:32 Now, there's different types of tension.
13:35 So I like to think of it in its most simple way.
13:38 There's two types of tension I focus on.
13:40 One is the tension of the pulling of the hair.
13:43 And the second one is the tension of the securing of the hair, or my fingers, the clamping of the hair.
13:49 I use quite a lot of clamping pressure, but I use very little pulling pressure, okay.
13:54 So my goal is to basically allow the muscles to relax.
13:59 So in this area, we have the auricularis anterior, which is the muscle in front of the ear, okay.
14:07 And that muscle is super flexible because it allows the jaw to move and it allows me to talk, okay.
14:14 So I've got one of them too.
14:17 And I'm basically working my number system now is on the base, which means one to two, two to three, three to four, and so forth, okay.
14:27 First of all, I comb the hair away.
14:29 But before I cut it, I comb it back this way.
14:32 Because if I comb it this way, three will go to two.
14:35 So I need to comb two to three.
14:37 So I'm working on the base.
14:39 So I pivot the chair a little bit.
14:41 That way I don't have to move the camera, okay.
14:44 So I come around this way, comb the hair out.
14:48 Now look at the skin.
14:50 Release.
14:53 Hopefully they saw that.
14:55 >> Maybe they did.
14:57 >> Good.
14:58 Thank you for the question, Marina.
14:59 I appreciate it.
15:02 Okay, so that's my third section.
15:05 Now I'm going to go into my fourth section.
15:07 And notice I'm trying to work really cleanly, guys.
15:10 One of the things that we try to focus on as a company -- actually, let me teach you one more thing.
15:15 So the head is basically straight up, okay.
15:19 So to get my shape vertical, and I'm going to have you zoom out a little bit.
15:23 Look at my body.
15:24 Now zoom out.
15:25 I have to basically -- to get my fingers completely vertical, I have to lift my arm up and my shoulder up, which is really bad for the bottom of my spine.
15:33 So if you look at what I'm doing, this is the angle in relation to the head.
15:37 If I tilt the head down, my arm can drop and I have much more control, okay.
15:42 So it's really important to protect yourself and to protect your spine, okay.
15:47 Again, I'm coming from front to back, okay, and I'm pulling it out and I'm cutting it.
15:57 This is section four, okay.
15:59 My number system is one to two, two to three, three to four.
16:03 That's my number system. That's my over direction.
16:10 Okay, so today what we've been doing here in Montreal is we've been doing an unplugged course.
16:17 So the unplugged course is basically a course which introduces you to all the different courses of Aligon -- what we do, how they work.
16:30 There's a question. Okay.
16:34 When do you set the horizontal guide? And his name is Branimir.
16:40 Okay, Branimir. Hello. Thank you. Nice for asking me the question, Branimir.
16:45 Where's Branimir from? Give us a little -- let us know where you're from, buddy.
16:49 So at the moment, my horizontal shape is being controlled by the fact that I'm working on the base.
16:55 So my vertical cutting lines, once I'm adding them together, multiple ones together, I'm creating my horizontal shape.
17:05 So if I was taking a horizontal section, I'd be creating my horizontal shape with my cutting line.
17:12 In this scenario, of course, my cutting line is being used, which is creating my shape.
17:16 But the fact that I'm working on the base is what's actually creating my horizontal round shape, okay.
17:22 I'm really focused now because I need to connect it into this length behind the ear.
17:28 So my round -- sorry, my horizontal shape is going to be round, okay.
17:34 My sections are still diagonal, closer to the vertical, mirroring the hairline, my initial hairline.
17:41 And if you notice now, I'm going to start, after I do this section, to start to comb from the opposite way.
17:50 And the reason for that is because I want to build a little bit of length at the crown.
17:55 So I'm going to build and build and build.
17:57 And if I comb forward every section slightly, what's going to happen is I'm going to start to build into my shape.
18:03 So again, I move my body, I groom my excess hair.
18:07 Notice I'm trying to work super clean, yeah, guys?
18:10 It's really important. I can't stress to you how important it is to work clean.
18:15 Remember, it's easy to work lazy, but you'll never get a nice shape if you're working lazy.
18:21 Random Europe is from Serbia.
18:23 Oh, cool. I've never been to Serbia. I'd love to go.
18:27 One day, I'm sure we'll get the pleasure of coming.
18:31 Okay. Now, as I'm working round, what I'm going to do is instead of me moving my body, which is what you should normally do,
18:41 all I'm going to do is move the chair.
18:44 So turn the chair, and that way I will automatically be standing opposite my section.
18:49 Because if I keep working and stand where I am now, I'm going to increase my length here and I'm going to get much longer.
18:55 So every time now, I'm just going to slowly move the chair around to help me maintain my horizontal shape.
19:02 Okay?
19:04 Now, the beauty of this, I don't know if you've noticed, but I haven't wet the hair down not even once since I started cutting.
19:11 And the reason for that is because I'm trying to work from wet to dry.
19:16 So after I cut every section, the first thing I do is I comb it down and I look at how the hair is responding.
19:22 And this is something we were talking about today in the class.
19:25 After you've cut a section, comb it, look how it's responding.
19:29 If it's not working, you've got to change it.
19:31 You don't keep going and then at the end realise that you're heavier on one side or you're not clean on one side.
19:37 Again, I'm following it around and connecting it through.
19:44 And this is the beauty of this kind of shape.
19:46 My horizontal shape is round.
19:48 My vertical shape is now slowly becoming round too, because my cutting line is now becoming round.
19:54 Okay?
19:59 I'm going to work all the way around to this point and I should run out of hair around about here.
20:04 Okay?
20:05 So in effect, I'm connecting all the crown into the shape underneath.
20:09 Marina is asking, in this case, you're eliminating the triangular shape you previously cut in the back?
20:15 No, my initial shape on the bottom is going up like this, triangular.
20:21 Now I'm rounding it off.
20:23 Okay, so technically the back is graduated up to the occipital bone and then it's layered over the crown.
20:31 Okay, so my vertical shape is doing this.
20:34 And then from here, it's then doing that.
20:39 Okay?
20:40 So that would be what my vertical shape is doing at the moment.
20:44 That's a good question, Marina.
20:48 If you look carefully, I'm not actually cutting the corner of the weight line off.
20:53 Come closer, Nimal.
20:55 There's the corner. Can you see there?
20:57 You see that?
20:59 I'm not cutting that corner. What I'm doing is I'm using that corner to go off it.
21:03 And what that's going to do is it's going to allow my whole shape to really kind of hug the head around the crown.
21:17 Notice that every section I'm combing slightly more towards me, so I'm gradually increasing my length a little bit.
21:25 So I'm keeping a little bit of a longer length at the crown.
21:32 Notice I'm only combing the hair once and cutting it once, okay?
21:40 And at Allulon, we refer to this as 'co-como'.
21:43 So it's comb once, cut once, move on.
21:46 So the idea is that every single time you cut it, you shouldn't have to cut it again.
21:51 Because you've cut it nice and clean, you've controlled your shape, you've used your guides correctly,
21:58 so you shouldn't have to faff around after that.
22:00 Good.
22:05 So I've taken my shape down. I'm coming towards the last couple of sections, through this side.
22:11 And then I'm going to cut the top and blow-dry.
22:13 Now the good thing is my blow-dry is minimal because the hair is very, very short.
22:18 So I don't have to faff around for ages.
22:21 And because I've been basically working really clean and with good grooming, the roots are drying into position.
22:29 Remember one thing. When you're working, okay, you must always remember that the head is constantly releasing heat.
22:37 So the root is constantly being dried. So the body is almost working against you because the heat is producing.
22:43 So if you don't groom the root into position, you're only going to get to a point where you have to re-wet the root down
22:51 to then blow-dry again, which is a big... it's like you're adding time to your mechanics and your shape.
22:58 Coming up to the last couple of sections.
23:05 And you can see I'm getting longer every time, can't you?
23:13 You can see I'm getting longer every time. And I should start running out of hair now.
23:20 So we're back to London tomorrow night. We fly back to London.
23:27 And then next week we're going to be in Chicago.
23:31 So we're going to be doing another pop-up unplugged.
23:35 For those of you who are regular unplugged viewers, we decided that we'd be doing an unplugged every time we're away in a different country.
23:43 It could be on a Monday, it could be on a Tuesday, it could be on a Wednesday. There's no set time.
23:49 It's going to be basically based on the country that we're in and the opportunity that we have.
23:55 So now guys, look at my shape. Just fix yourself.
23:59 Katie, is there a reason why you choose to put your external shape in the nape while the hair was wet versus dry?
24:06 That's a very good question. Who's asked that? Katie? Where are you from, Katie? New York City.
24:11 New York, New York. Okay, so why did I just do that? Sorry.
24:16 I love New York, by the way.
24:19 So, the reason... I actually cut my external shape. I don't know what point you tuned in.
24:25 But the hair at the nape was actually dry when I cut it. It wasn't wet.
24:29 The reason I cut my external shape in is because what I need is control.
24:34 This particular hair is literally very spiky, very straight like that.
24:38 So if you choose the wrong length on this hair, it's just going to go boop and then you're in no man's land.
24:43 You're struggling to control and manage it.
24:46 So I've used oil and milk to give me some control because oil and milk is a bit creamy and it kind of holds the hair down.
24:51 And I'm making sure that with my external shape, once I put the shape in, what it does is it frames and supports the internal shape.
25:01 One of the things you can always remember or think about is that...
25:05 Think about your external shape as being the frame of your internal shape.
25:11 So think of it a little bit like if you had a really beautiful picture.
25:15 Independently, it would be great. But you put it into a really beautiful wooden frame.
25:20 All of a sudden, all your eye drives into the photograph.
25:23 It works the same way with a haircut.
25:25 Your focus is basically within the external shape.
25:30 I'm just taking away a little bit of a corner on the edge.
25:34 So, Jake Fox.
25:37 Jake Fox?
25:38 Yes. What determines your level of elevation when working the round layer on top of your graduation?
25:45 Good point. So, good question, Jake.
25:48 So, basically, at this point, I don't know if you noticed, but I was working almost closer to the...
25:54 If you tilt the head up a little bit like that.
25:56 I was almost working closer to the horizontal like that with my fingers.
26:00 As I worked up, I went slightly vertical, so I kind of pivoted, yeah?
26:03 Forget what I'm doing with my body now. I'm only doing that so you can see with the camera.
26:07 I was basically like this.
26:09 And I was cutting using a round cutting line.
26:13 And then as I got round to the front, I slowly, slowly started to rotate.
26:17 So, here I was literally almost vertical. I don't know if you noticed that.
26:20 Okay?
26:21 And the reason why I did that is because by becoming more vertical, I'm having more of a control over my vertical shape.
26:28 By working more horizontally, I'm having more of a control over my horizontal shape.
26:33 Now, in this scenario, I was working diagonally for most of the haircut, which means that I'm in control...
26:39 I mean, see...
26:42 Okay. For those of you who are hardcore Algon kind of followers, when we teach, when we teach our Primal Shapes course,
26:52 we teach that by taking vertical sections, you have a greater control over your vertical shape.
26:57 By taking horizontal sections, you have a greater control over your horizontal shape.
27:01 By taking diagonal sections, you have, or pure diagonal sections, you have an even control over both shapes.
27:08 But the reality is, by taking a vertical section and cutting a vertical section, you're still influencing the horizontal shape.
27:17 So, whether you're taking a vertical, a horizontal, or a diagonal section, you're affecting both shapes.
27:23 The difference is, if it's pure vertical, you're having much more of an influence over your vertical shape.
27:30 If it's pure diagonal, you're having much more of an influence over your horizontal shape.
27:34 Now, at the moment, we're teaching with two shapes to visualize, which is the horizontal and the vertical.
27:40 But the reality is, there's three. There's also the diagonal shape, which is very hard for people to understand,
27:45 because you've got multiple things that you're cutting at the same time.
27:49 You're basically cutting across the head.
27:52 So, we're working on the best way at the moment to try and explain it to people, because it's quite a tricky one to kind of explain.
28:02 But we're still struggling to really get our minds around how dominating, or how dangerous diagonal sections can be.
28:15 The reality is, your diagonal shape is the result of your vertical and horizontal shape.
28:22 Your horizontal shape is the result of your diagonal and vertical shape.
28:27 And vice versa, your vertical shape is the result of your diagonal and horizontal shape.
28:33 The key is, if I'm taking vertical sections, I'm creating my horizontal and diagonal shape.
28:42 But I'm cutting it using vertical sections.
28:45 It's quite a complicated animal to kind of digest, but my advice is, this bit I've been talking about for a while,
28:52 watch it back and watch it again and watch it again, even if it's just this little bit.
28:55 So we're really trying to understand what it is, and trying to make you visualise.
28:59 So, I want my last zone here, which is in the top.
29:02 I'm going to do something which I think is going to be quite cool.
29:04 I want to crop some of the hair down inside here, but I want to leave some length kind of around,
29:09 it's almost like a circular piece of this connection.
29:12 So, I'm going to come inside the shape.
29:16 Valerie's got a really strong growth pattern at the front hairline.
29:20 So I'm going to leave that into my length in the front, so that way I can quiff that up at the end.
29:25 But what I'm going to do is I'm going to crop all the internal shape here down,
29:29 which is going to probably go quite spiky, which is going to be quite fun for me to manage.
29:33 But, I'm up for the challenge, and I want to see if I can control that.
29:40 See, this is the beauty of cutting hair, right?
29:43 No matter how much you try to be the best at what you do, you're always going to learn,
29:48 and you're always going to make mistakes, and you're always going to try and really try and understand what went wrong.
29:54 And one of the things that we focus on a lot in the classroom is to understand that it's okay to make the mistakes,
30:01 and it's part of the process.
30:03 There's a certain Pedro watching you.
30:06 I think I know that guy.
30:08 You see that bald guy that's sitting over there?
30:11 A certain Maddy and Pedro watching.
30:14 Hi everyone.
30:16 Hi Pedro, do you have a question?
30:18 I've got lots of questions.
30:21 Before you grill me about the diagonal shape, I'm just going to talk to you about the hairline quickly.
30:30 I just want to tell you there are people from all over the world watching, names I can't even pronounce.
30:35 That's fantastic. I'm glad.
30:37 You're past the thousand people right now.
30:40 That's amazing. I just want to say thank you for watching, for those of you who are watching.
30:44 If you are enjoying what we're doing, please feel free to share it.
30:49 We can just try and get as many people as we can bouncing off each other.
30:52 The share button I think is on the bottom left or bottom right.
30:55 Anyway, back to my haircut.
30:57 My zone of disconnection basically is curving around the head.
31:01 Notice I've left the growth pattern of the crown out of that.
31:05 I'm going to keep that long, because if I cut that, then I'm definitely in a world of trouble.
31:09 What I'm going to be doing now is I'm going to be working my internal shape quite tight,
31:14 which will allow me to crop a really strong little line in here as a fringe.
31:18 The fringe will basically do that.
31:20 It will follow this, and then I'll have a bit of a quiffy bit at the front.
31:25 How do I cut this? There's lots of different ways of cutting it.
31:28 I could cut using pivoting sections like this.
31:32 I could cut following the same section patterns I did on the underneath.
31:37 I could cut from the top with vertical sections and cutting around like this.
31:41 There's so many ways.
31:43 Actually, now that we've said that, one of the things I've really been trying harder over the last two days
31:50 with my team that I've been working with is to get them to understand that it's not about the haircuts.
31:57 This shape that I'm creating, I can create it in about seven different ways.
32:01 It's understanding. It's not a menu of haircuts that we're trying to get people to understand.
32:07 It's basically the way to manipulate weight and the way to control textures.
32:12 That's what we all need to really put in our heads.
32:15 It's not a menu. It's how to position yourself to protect your back and your body
32:21 and have the maximum control possible.
32:23 There's a certain Stephen Nguyen who says he's a former student and he keeps asking me to tell you that you were his teacher 15 years ago.
32:36 Really?
32:37 And that you taught him well.
32:38 Thank you.
32:39 He's a very successful hairdresser and he wishes to thank you massively for the education that you gave him.
32:48 Stephen?
32:49 Stephen Nguyen. Yes. Where are you from, Stephen?
32:52 Stephen, I'm genuinely flattered that you're tuning in tonight to watch.
33:06 I'm glad that I had a little bit of an influence in your journey.
33:10 I'm sure your success is purely through hard work, not necessarily from joining a founder.
33:16 I appreciate the compliment.
33:19 I've decided to work in the middle of this whole zone here.
33:24 Can anyone tell me why?
33:26 Why am I starting here and not here or here?
33:30 What's the reason for that?
33:32 Anybody?
33:33 Your projection.
33:35 Explain.
33:36 Your projection.
33:38 The projection of the scalp?
33:40 That's where you're going to have the most.
33:42 Why?
33:43 That's your starting point.
33:46 Maybe if I was to put it into the middle.
33:49 The reason I'm starting here, guys, is because if you look carefully, this area here is the area which basically protrudes the most.
33:56 But on Vivian's scalp, if you feel the head, there's at this point here, there's like a little lump, which that area there is my danger area.
34:06 So I start my section on my danger area.
34:09 Normally you'd start or you could start just over the ear, which again is the widest part of the head.
34:14 I'm starting here simply because this point here, you can't really see it, but it's got a bit of a lump basically.
34:22 Right.
34:23 So I'm going to basically work on the base like this.
34:26 And when I get to about here where the hairline starts kicking, I'm going to over-direct to maintain a bit of extra weight in the front.
34:32 And I'm going to stop talking because I've been talking for a long time.
34:35 Let's start cutting some hair now.
34:37 So I'm going to tilt the head back.
34:39 That way I don't have to bend my spine.
34:41 That's something that's really important.
34:43 It's something that I focus on a lot in class about protecting your body.
34:48 I'm combing one to two, two to three, three to four, which means basically I'm combing away from me technically.
34:56 I'm combing that way.
34:57 One goes to two, two goes to three, three goes to four.
35:00 And every time I cut it, I comb it into place.
35:03 Okay.
35:04 Every time.
35:05 I've got another maybe one or two more sections and then I'm going to start to over-direct, which means my number system will change.
35:11 Okay.
35:12 I'm combing the hair out from the base.
35:15 And I'm using the length from the underneath to connect itself through.
35:19 Okay.
35:21 Where was it, Stephen you said, or Steve?
35:25 Stephen.
35:26 Stephen.
35:27 Where are you based now, Stephen?
35:29 Are you?
35:30 Sheffield, UK.
35:31 I was at the Sassoon Foundation for St. David's News.
35:33 Oh, wow.
35:34 I was the one that asked you loads of questions.
35:36 I love that, mate.
35:38 I love it.
35:39 I absolutely love it.
35:40 I love questions.
35:41 Because it makes me feel like I'm connecting.
35:46 Not just with the internet.
35:48 Connecting with the internet.
35:49 A lot of people from the show are saying how much they enjoyed the show.
35:53 Cool.
35:54 Cool.
35:55 Thank you for coming.
35:56 It was a great atmosphere.
35:57 It's quite interesting, actually.
35:58 By the way, now I'm going to start to over-direct.
36:00 So I went one to two, two to three, three to four.
36:03 Now everything's kind of back to four.
36:05 So I'm going to maintain as much weight as I can in that front area.
36:08 Okay.
36:09 It was really interesting.
36:10 We had this amazing theatre.
36:11 I'm not sure what the theatre was called.
36:13 What was it called?
36:14 The Rialto Theatre.
36:15 The Rialto.
36:16 It was a beautiful theatre, really, really angelic looking.
36:19 And the audience were like so amazing.
36:23 You walked on stage and the energy was like, "Oh, my God, okay.
36:27 Wow, everybody wants to see what we're going to do."
36:29 It was fantastic.
36:32 And it's going to be interesting, actually.
36:34 If you go onto our All Along page, you can look at some of the videos.
36:39 We're going to be posting more stuff as and when.
36:42 So this hair here, guys, I could cut it now.
36:45 But what I'm going to do is I'm going to let it dry first before I cut it.
36:48 If I just cut it now, it's going to spring on me.
36:50 I'm going to let the root calm down and settle down.
36:53 Because don't forget, when you cut hair, hair reacts.
36:56 It's like, "Oh, my God, what's just happened to me?"
36:58 So calm it down, put it into place, put some product on it.
37:01 Usually I use Day Day.
37:02 That's normally what I tend to use, which is basically the Establish product here.
37:06 This is my cutting level.
37:08 This is my cutting lotion.
37:09 I use this all the time.
37:11 But today I've got I need something more stronger, something more dominating, so I used the Oymilk.
37:17 Now I'm going to work from here to the back of the head.
37:22 Now I'm actually going to pivot my sections.
37:25 So I'm going to ask my team today to have a think about this.
37:29 But I am going to throw the question out to the audience.
37:34 Please, for those of you who should know, we spoke about it today.
37:37 And I will come to you.
37:39 But let's see if the audience who are watching can answer.
37:42 Look carefully, by the way.
37:44 Can you see I'm using this corner here, which is the corner of my initial vertical shape?
37:51 And what I'm doing is I'm basically rounding that corner off and connecting it through the top.
37:58 And I'm going to pivot my section.
38:00 So can anyone watching tell me why do we pivot with our sections?
38:06 What's the logic?
38:08 Why do we do it?
38:11 What's the reason behind pivoting?
38:13 What's the benefit in doing it?
38:15 Your mum's just tuned in.
38:17 Hi, mum.
38:19 Is she really tuned in?
38:24 Get out of here, really.
38:26 Mum, do not ask any questions.
38:30 Do not ask my mum any questions, anybody.
38:32 I'll come to you.
38:36 Tell us a story about yourself.
38:39 So back to the technique.
38:42 My vertical shape is basically rounding yourself off the crown.
38:47 Roundness and weight build.
38:50 Even distribution of weight.
38:53 You asked the question.
38:55 Different line for texture.
38:57 Those are the answers.
39:00 Do you remember your question?
39:02 I do remember the question.
39:04 So can my team, who I've been working with all day today, and they are tired because they've had a really good productive day,
39:11 but can my team answer why do we use pivoting sections?
39:17 What is the purpose of using a pivoting motion?
39:20 So another response is balance, transition.
39:24 Transition, who said that?
39:26 Jean-Francois Lapierre.
39:28 Fantastico.
39:30 I was afraid that was Italian.
39:32 Very, very good.
39:34 Transition, and I'm hoping he's meaning in regards to the transition of, for example, a vertical shape.
39:42 It allows you to pivot into a diagonal or to a horizontal shape.
39:46 So the principles of pivoting is it allows you to transition your sectioning pattern from one angle to another angle,
39:52 which is going to give you a greater control over whichever shape you're trying to create.
39:56 Another reason why we pivot is that when you're pivoting from a specific point, which is a great point that Daniel was making today,
40:03 that, for example, if the pivot point is two inches long, as you're pivoting from this point,
40:10 you're not physically cutting that hair anymore because that's the preference to come off.
40:15 So it's allowing you to really have a starting point within your cutting lines.
40:22 Okay.
40:24 Can I ask you a question?
40:26 Yeah, I want you to, please.
40:27 Remember how you said you started in that area because of the hair right here that's a little bit tougher?
40:33 The crown?
40:35 Why you got started in that area?
40:38 Oh, yeah, sorry. Yes, yeah.
40:39 Did you do anything particular in that area?
40:42 So the reason I started in that area is so I can manage the choice of length.
40:48 Because the choice of length in that area, if I go too short, it's going to react and jump or it's going to expose the scalp.
40:54 If I keep it too long, it's going to look quite bulbous and quite kind of full in a bit.
40:59 So you have to kind of, my advice is always start in your danger areas, control your danger areas.
41:05 One of the things we've been talking about in our class is, you know, what the hairdressers really want.
41:11 And hairdressers want to be able to control their shape.
41:14 That's what they really want.
41:15 They want to know that when I pick the hair up and cut it here, that's where it's going to sit.
41:18 That's what it's going to do.
41:19 That's how it's going to react.
41:20 And that's one of the things that we've been focused on quite a lot.
41:23 So what I'm going to do now, guys, I'm very quickly, it's going to take me about a minute to dry that top zone.
41:31 Okay.
41:33 I'm going to use a paddle brush because I want it to be as flat as I possibly can.
41:39 Okay.
41:40 And I'm not going to use any more product.
41:42 I'm just going to, I'll be literally one minute, one or two minutes, okay.
41:46 So I'm going to wrap dry the hair.
41:48 I'm going to focus on my shorter hair first.
41:53 And you can see that the hair is going to sit because my airflow is going down the hair.
42:04 And I'm wrapping the hair around the head.
42:09 Now, one thing I've been focused on in my class is basically the wrist movement when you're blow drying, okay.
42:17 Now, when you're wrap drying, ideally what you want to try to do is allow your wrist to bevel like this, to rotate.
42:27 A lot of people do this and they bend their hair out, okay.
42:31 So we want to try and always make the wrist bend to rotate around the curvature of the head.
42:41 Now, with my length on top, I don't want to create a smooth finish.
42:45 I'm not trying to create, with this length, I'm not trying to create a flat shape because I want it to have a bit of a quiffy type texture feeling.
42:57 So with the top, I'm basically just going to use my hands to dry the hair.
43:05 But on the hair that I need to sit flat, I'm going to use a wrap drying technique.
43:13 Okay.
43:16 With the top section, I'm not going to put any kind of discipline in my blow dry because I want the hair to move.
43:25 I'm just going to let the air get inside.
43:30 And then I'm going to cut that in a very textured way.
43:34 So I'm going to use quite a lot of free hand in that area to really control the shape.
43:42 [Blow dryer blowing]
44:01 Okay.
44:06 So I've finished cutting that shape.
44:08 I've blow dried that shape.
44:15 Okay. Now what I'm going to do is I'm going to cut the fringing area.
44:20 So I groom the hair out of the way.
44:25 I ignore the shape that I don't want.
44:27 And I'm going to carve the hairline out, okay?
44:30 So I'm going to come in. I'm going to come in quite tight.
44:32 So I'm going to tilt the head. I'm really going to get in there and carve that away.
44:39 And what this will do is it will allow me to have like a focal point around the face and around the eyes.
44:49 So comb the hair down.
44:51 I'm going to carve out the front hairline like this.
44:56 Like that.
44:57 And in this area here, you can see I cut it very randomly, quite visually.
45:02 Now what I'm going to do is I'm going to basically isolate the space and then put a bit more strength in there because the hair is reactive now.
45:10 I've seen how it's responded.
45:12 Okay. And then I'm going to chip the line in just so it looks a bit more natural.
45:19 And that way I keep the weight, I keep the control, but at the same time it doesn't look like a wig.
45:34 Okay.
45:35 A few people are asking for the colour formula and we just called Alexandre, who is Valerie's teacher, because she's studying at our school.
45:46 And we're going to get the formula as soon as he gets back to us.
45:50 It's an interesting colour actually, isn't it?
45:52 Okay. Now I've carved the front fringe out.
45:56 Okay. What I'm going to do now is I'm going to work on all this and I'm going to work with quite a lot of texturising techniques to allow me to basically dress the crown, to dress my length from top.
46:06 So I'm not going to, I'm going to, I am going to cut it in a technical way, but only in relation to the sectioning pattern that I'm going to use, not in relation to the actual cutting application.
46:16 So let me show you what I mean.
46:18 So I'm going to go across the top, comb the hair straight up.
46:21 So I'm taking a section from left to right.
46:24 Okay. And I'm going to bevel the hair here.
46:27 And notice what I'm doing. I'm going to slightly rotate my fingers.
46:31 Okay. And then I'm going to really, really break into this head because I want it to be quite a scruffy, raw kind of finish.
46:37 Okay. I'm not trying to get any kind of clean lines in my shape.
46:41 I've got all my clean mechanics everywhere else.
46:44 This is where I basically release all the texture.
46:47 And when I style it after, it will give me a lot of freedom.
46:50 Okay. A lot of freedom.
46:52 Comb the hair up and then really go for it.
46:58 So basically, Alexandre is saying that all of her ends were pre-lightened to a level 9, 9.5, very, very light blonde.
47:08 And all he did is put in 7.11 with a dot of 2.11 from mask with Vibacrom, five volume over the whole hair.
47:24 And that is the result.
47:26 So mask from Vibacrom.
47:28 Maddy.
47:29 Yeah.
47:30 Can I borrow you a minute?
47:31 Okay.
47:32 Just to talk to me about some colour.
47:33 Yeah.
47:34 So for those of you who are tuning in, I'm going to keep working and doing the same kind of mechanical approach.
47:40 This is our amazing Madeline Murphy, who is the colour director for Alilon and for Enna.
47:46 Hi. I'm Madeline.
47:47 So Mads, you know, obviously we're just talking about the mask colours.
47:51 If I'm honest, I can't remember the formulation, as you probably know.
47:54 7.11 with 2.11.
47:55 Okay.
47:56 So what is the difference between, for example, probably some of the people watching have never used Admin before,
48:02 don't really understand the colour range, don't really understand the cycle, how it all works.
48:05 Can you give us any advice in regards to the interpretation of getting different tones and different shapes,
48:11 shading and things like that with mask and Vibacrom?
48:14 I'm not really sure I understand your question.
48:17 Is that just me?
48:19 Just talk about colour.
48:21 [Laughter]
48:24 Talk about how you can use the Davines colour to create lots of different tones and things like that.
48:30 Okay.
48:31 Because this is 5 volume, basically that's what you're saying, right?
48:33 Something like that. That's exactly what I'm saying.
48:35 Just go.
48:36 Talk colour.
48:37 So our 7.11 is a level 7 with a double ash tone to it.
48:43 The ash tone in the mask of Vibacrom is a blue base.
48:46 The 2.11 is our version of a blue black, again with a double ash for the blue base.
48:51 But we can use the 2.11 as our blue intensifier as well.
48:55 So you can see there is quite a lot of a sort of bluey tone towards the ends of the hair.
49:00 I'm so sorry, I didn't know you were there.
49:02 Valerie.
49:03 Valerie. Nice to meet you, Valerie.
49:04 So Valerie's hair, she's probably naturally about a level 5.
49:07 It's been pre-lightened slightly and then toned using the 7.11 and the 2.11.
49:12 So it gives us that sort of bluey, very, very ash tone.
49:16 So with the mask of Vibacrom range, this is our permanent range that does have ammonia inside it.
49:21 A really low amount of ammonia, really well calibrated so the scalp's not overly sensitised.
49:26 The hair's not going to be overly sensitised either.
49:29 You can use the mask of Vibacrom in a really creative way.
49:32 So I don't know if you guys caught up with our wiggle collection.
49:36 Some of the looks that we do, we do create almost a rainbow effect with the mask of Vibacrom.
49:42 But then we also have a range which is fantastic called a new colour.
49:45 And this is our ammonia free range.
49:48 Again, a permanent colour range.
49:50 So we have all of the nuances that you'd usually expect.
49:53 An ash, a violet, a gold, a copper, a red, a mahogany, a beige, and a really strong ash,
50:01 so almost towards a green.
50:02 And then we also have a range where they're called pure colour.
50:05 So we have a red, orange, yellow, green, blue and violet.
50:09 And you can use these, we have the 5 volumes, so again really, really low peroxide.
50:14 So we're not going to damage any of the hair.
50:16 To give us a permanent colour on top of pre-lightened hair.
50:18 So my hair is actually the Dabaneers pure colour, the blue, the strongest dilution.
50:23 So to get these fashion colours with the ammonia free colour, we have our colour,
50:27 which is again our red, yellow, orange, green, blue, maybe say it in a different colour, violet.
50:33 And then we have a cream base, which is a colour cream, really high in vitamin C,
50:38 loads of antioxidants, which we can dilute that colour with.
50:41 And then we have a 5 volume, again loads of ammonium, loads of lipids,
50:45 keeps the hair really, really healthy.
50:47 It's not going to damage the hair in any way.
50:49 It actually makes the hair feel a lot nicer than it did beforehand, a lot of the time,
50:52 because it's super moisturising.
50:54 So what you can do with this certain range, is you can change the amount of colour that you use
50:59 within your cream base.
51:00 So to get your lightest dilution, to get a really soft pastel,
51:04 you would use 1 gram to 10 grams of cream base.
51:07 So for example, a baby blue, we would use 1 gram of blue, 10 grams of cream base,
51:12 and 20 grams of 5 volume.
51:14 If you wanted a really strong blue, like an electric blue, my hair has faded a little bit,
51:19 but when it's first done, we would have 10 grams of blue, 10 grams of cream base,
51:24 and 20 grams of 5 volume again.
51:26 If you want anything in between, all you do is you reduce or increase the amount of blue to cream base.
51:32 So equal parts is our strongest, and then anything in between is all in between that.
51:37 And you can mix them into each other as well.
51:39 So I like to play a lot with my orange and my violet, my yellow and my green, my blue and my violet,
51:44 together to just create new nuances.
51:47 I mean, we have so many fabulous colours that we can create with the Master Vibrant Chrome and New Colour.
51:52 A lot of the work that we've been doing at the moment has been with the Pure Colour,
51:56 to get those really, really bright colours.
51:58 But I urge you to give it a go, play with the Master Vibrant Chrome.
52:02 We have a 6.66, which is our red intensifier, 8.44, our copper intensifier,
52:08 and we have a 4.22, our violet intensifier.
52:11 So you can, again, be a bit more artistic and mix those all together in with the other nuances
52:17 to create colours that you'd like to see.
52:20 Have you got any colour questions, Anna?
52:23 No, people asking classes in London, when and where.
52:28 Okay. So, if you're interested in any kind of courses, be it internationally or in the UK,
52:35 all you have to do is email info@adelanteducation.com.
52:41 So it's info@adelanteducation.com.
52:44 Pedro will probably write it in the comments section for you.
52:47 Already done.
52:48 Okay. And when you email us, probably Pedro, if it's international, it's usually me,
52:54 if it's UK, it's usually Pedro, will basically email you back and just talk about what the options are
53:00 and how it works, okay?
53:02 We're doing a lot of courses in the States at the moment.
53:05 We're doing quite a few courses in Canada.
53:08 I know we're going to be talking about doing some more stuff in Montreal.
53:14 So, I mean, there's so many things we're doing.
53:16 We're very lucky at the moment. We're doing lots and lots and lots of things.
53:20 Now, at the moment, I'm working on top of my fingers and I'm standing in front.
53:24 Madeline, thank you so much. I appreciate it.
53:26 Guys, please say thank you to Madeline for all the great work.