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00:00 Hi everyone, this is Sally Rogerson for SR Education and we are going to be doing a live
00:08 demonstration here on Salon Services Facebook page.
00:12 So thank you Salon Services for having me this morning and I am going to be doing something
00:18 from the SR Education Comprehensive Cutting Program, which I know a lot of you out there
00:24 have done.
00:25 We are going to be in Seattle at Salon Services this coming Sunday, Sunday, Monday, Tuesday
00:31 and Wednesday.
00:33 So if you want to come and cut hair with us, there's still a couple of spots left.
00:37 I'm going to be using a haircut S2.
00:40 So S stands for short and 2 is the second haircut from the short series.
00:47 So this is an amazing haircut at the moment.
00:50 It can be used all the time on any type of client and what it is, is a short round graduation
00:59 on the underneath.
01:00 So I've sectioned the hair in a triangle on the top.
01:05 When you section the top area out in a triangle, it's really nice because the back of the triangle
01:11 and the apex of the triangle disappears, but where the base is, that's where I'm going
01:17 to have a lot of length.
01:18 So this is really for a client that wants to have that longer front kind of feeling,
01:24 shorter in the underneath area.
01:27 I'm doing the underneath with more of a round graduation technique.
01:31 So I've done a little bit for the sake of time already, but I've done a classic round
01:36 graduation, diagonal sections, working from the front to the back.
01:42 So what that'll do, will open up the face a little bit more and bring out the cheekbones.
01:48 So I do have some hair left that I want to share with you.
01:51 So on this side, and I'm right-handed, so on this side, you have to really think about
01:58 going around the head.
02:00 So I started working from the front around into the back, and this is for a client that
02:06 you want to build some hair up here in the crown.
02:11 So from the profile, I'm trying to build a nice crown for the client.
02:16 And there's a few different things that you want to take into consideration when you're
02:21 trying to make that decision.
02:23 Number one is the occipital bone.
02:26 So I'm feeling the occipital bone and I'm deciding whether I want to put the weight
02:31 higher up or lower down.
02:34 Now there's a big trend at the moment, if you've been keeping your eye on fashion week,
02:40 there's a big trend at the moment for this kind of lower graduation, a little bit of
02:47 a disco Studio 54 kind of feeling.
02:52 So you can for sure come down and start to build weight by bringing this head down a
02:59 little bit more.
03:01 Or if you have a client and you want to take it shorter and you want to take it higher,
03:07 then you would continue to elevate and to lift.
03:11 So that is your decision to be made.
03:13 So here I am in this back area, and I'm now going through and crossing over into the other
03:20 side.
03:21 So I've come through with diagonal sections.
03:24 I'll go all the way through to the other side and continue my graduation that way.
03:31 Once I get to the occipital bone, I then have to start to decide how much weight I want
03:39 to build up in this crown area.
03:43 So if a client is really flat through there, then I will start to bring this hair down
03:51 a little bit more, or I'll continue to lift it up.
03:55 And it is graduation and I am building weight.
04:01 So I'm coming down at least to the previous section, or I'm going down a little bit more
04:08 if I'm trying to build a bit more weight.
04:11 So you can see here, I've got my weight build up.
04:15 This hair is shorter.
04:17 This hair is longer.
04:18 So it's graduation.
04:21 Graduation is a build up of weight and the hair underneath is always shorter than the
04:28 hair above.
04:31 So it supports it and the short hair underneath supports the longer hair above it.
04:39 This is really great for you to build weight and give a client the appearance of a better
04:46 head shape and a better profile.
04:50 I'm going all the way through.
04:52 You can see into the other side and then I'm going to start the second side.
04:58 I'm right-handed.
04:59 So on this side, I'm cutting top down because it's smooth.
05:05 If you are left-handed, then on this side, you would be cutting top down.
05:13 When I show you the second side, I'll show you my body position and I'll actually be
05:18 going bottom up to make it a bit smoother.
05:23 So I have a fantastic long-term relationship with Salon Services.
05:30 I just want to thank everyone at Salon Services for supporting me on everything that we do
05:36 at SR Education.
05:39 You can find us in class both here in Arizona and also in Seattle quite often.
05:48 We have, as I said, our foundation class and also our advanced class coming up and that's
05:55 at the studio space in Renton at Salon Services starting on Sunday.
06:02 We are also going to be doing a lot of classes in conjunction with Salon Services in Arizona
06:11 as well.
06:12 They're such an amazing company to work with.
06:18 So thank you very much to Sydney and to George and to everyone.
06:22 I left the Sassoon organization after about 22 years and I started SR Education six years
06:30 ago now and Salon Services have supported me from the very beginning so I appreciate
06:39 it very much.
06:40 Okay, now into the other side.
06:44 This is not the correct top that you should be wearing for round graduation because as
06:50 you can see it's getting in the way.
06:52 But anyway, folks, we're going to start from the bottom on this side.
06:58 So here I'm going to go bottom up.
07:00 I'm going to go bottom and then walk backwards, middle, and then walk backwards to the top
07:08 area.
07:09 The reason that I tend to do that is because it's smooth.
07:13 I see a lot of people who tend to cut from the top and then go into the bottom and you
07:22 get little corners and little marks in your haircut.
07:27 So it's not as smooth as it could be.
07:29 This way I'm working bottom, middle, and walking backwards.
07:36 I'm lifting my left elbow up as I go around and working through into the top.
07:43 This gives me a smoother feeling and stops me from getting corners.
07:48 It's a round graduation technique so I don't want loads of corners and I want it to be
07:54 nice and smooth so I get more of a curve to it.
08:11 So you can see how it's building up.
08:16 Diagonal sections all the way across.
08:19 Bottom up.
08:20 I have my guide from my other side.
08:22 This is telling me what to do.
08:24 You really need to cut small increments of hair because you're trying to work with more
08:31 of a curve.
08:33 So coming around and through.
08:38 So bottom up.
08:43 Diagonal sections through and then working through higher and higher.
09:02 What this is going to do is give me a really nice profile and then I can go into any type
09:13 of outline.
09:14 This is a great haircut on a guide as well.
09:22 And my finishing really does set it apart.
09:26 So obviously from a finishing point of view I can go into more of a scissor of a comb
09:32 or I can also go into a little bit more of a dramatic stronger cleaner outline.
09:39 As I continue I'm going to start to cross check and my cross check I like to go over
09:47 my fingers and curve my fingers.
09:52 I should be seeing more of a curve like this.
09:55 The reason for that is because I did more of a rounded shape.
09:58 So I'm coming up and I'm curving my fingers.
10:01 I can keep it clean like that or I can go through obviously and start to do some pointing.
10:08 I can start to also do some slicing, some freehand.
10:12 I'm going to go through and point this a little bit just to give it that softer slightly more
10:17 kind of raw feeling.
10:21 Please remember that your cross check should directly mirror your cutting angle.
10:29 So for example if I've done a round shape which I have the last thing I would do is
10:34 to comb the hair down through my fingers palm to palm and pull it down.
10:40 Because number one it's not going to look correct.
10:43 We didn't cut a square shape.
10:45 And number two when you bring it down like that you're going to put lines, steps and
10:50 finger marks in it.
10:51 So be very very careful when you are cross checking to make sure that you are making
10:59 the angle with your fingers that you have cut into the haircut.
11:05 In this situation it's going to be more curved and rounded.
11:10 So I have a few corners just taking a little bit of my corners off.
11:13 I'm also elevating and lifting up.
11:17 As I go.
11:20 Quick question.
11:21 Yeah.
11:22 Would you recommend this cut for curly hair from Gigi?
11:25 Hi Gigi.
11:26 Very good question.
11:29 The question was would I recommend this haircut for curly hair.
11:34 Absolutely this works on everybody.
11:38 It's beautiful.
11:39 It's a classic and timeless technique.
11:42 But it works on any style of client, any type of hair at all.
11:46 If I'm doing curly hair I have to take into consideration that curly hair has its own
11:53 spring and it has its own lift.
12:00 So if I'm going to graduate it I've got to also remember that it's going to spring up
12:05 and it has its own kind of graduation as well.
12:09 So sometimes I have to leave it a bit lower because I know it's going to spring up.
12:15 And if I cut it to where I want it to be then it springs up it ends up too short or too
12:22 high up on the head.
12:24 Okay so what I want to get to.
12:25 Hope that answered your question Gigi.
12:28 Thank you very much.
12:29 What I want to get to is the top.
12:32 So we've done more of a classic round graduation in the underneath.
12:37 Now this could also be clippered.
12:39 It could be scissor overcome.
12:40 It could be super short.
12:42 So it could be very very undercut as well.
12:45 But scissor overcome and clipper overcome is still a form of graduation.
12:51 Even a fade is a form of graduation.
12:54 It's shorter in the underneath in some capacity becoming longer above it.
13:00 So where you place the weight on somebody's face is extremely important.
13:07 I would never place the weight or the weight builder at the widest part of someone's face.
13:14 So think about that and think about where are you going to place this.
13:18 Does it need to go higher and flatter.
13:20 Does it need to go lower and heavier.
13:22 And this relates to if you're doing this on guys hair or on women's hair.
13:27 Okay I'm going to go into this top area.
13:31 Now there's many many different ways to work with the top of course.
13:35 You have to really think about if you're going to do a fringe, if you're going to be doing
13:42 you know any form of length in the front.
13:45 Ultimately when you get to this point you need to really think about what do I want
13:51 it to look like.
13:52 So does the client want it to be longer in the front?
13:56 Do they want it to be longer in the back?
13:58 Are they a little bit more fashion forward?
14:00 Are they a little bit more avant garde?
14:03 It depends on what kind of client you have.
14:07 Some clients don't mind having something really dramatic.
14:10 They don't mind things falling over.
14:13 Other clients want it to blend in a little bit more.
14:16 So there's many many different ways to cut the top.
14:19 I can think off the top of my head like about 30.
14:23 But what I'm going to do for you today is to actually work through with a little bit
14:29 more of a layer.
14:31 So we're going to take our comb, place it on the top of the head.
14:37 I'll get my SR education comb because you can see it a bit better I think than that
14:41 red one.
14:42 So I'm going to place my comb on the top of the head horizontally and I'm then going to
14:48 take a step over to the right.
14:52 This will give me more of a diagonal section.
14:56 So what I did was stand it in the back horizontally, took a step to the right, let my comb come
15:03 over with me and now I'm going to actually mimic that angle with my sections.
15:10 So I'm taking a diagonal section, I'm standing over to the right and I'm going to comb the
15:16 hair up.
15:18 So comb up and over to the side.
15:24 So when I comb up and over I am not connecting into this crown area.
15:31 So I'm combing up, letting the crown drop out, if you can see that the crown is dropping
15:38 out.
15:39 And I'm coming over to the side area.
15:44 So comb up, over to the side area and then I'm going to connect to the side and cut from
15:51 short to long just moving across and taking a lot of layers and weight out.
15:59 I'm going to very simply cut it from short to long and leave this side long over here.
16:05 So I'm just going to do a really nice little asymmetric top.
16:10 I think asymmetry is a way to make your client stand out and feel a little bit different
16:17 but it doesn't have to be too weird and it doesn't have to be too outrageous.
16:24 Asymmetry is a really really important part of your work because most people are not traditionally
16:35 symmetrical in the face.
16:37 So asymmetry one way or the other can balance somebody's facial features and face.
16:43 If their nose goes a little bit this way then you would part it that way and it would counterbalance
16:50 any features in the face that were unsymmetrical.
16:56 So I'm going to go all the way through, comb everything over to the side.
17:00 Now over direction allows me to design.
17:04 So it's up to me.
17:05 I can either over direct it more and pull it back more.
17:10 What that's going to do is give me more length at the front or I can over direct it back
17:15 less and just come back one section.
17:18 It will still get longer towards the front but it just won't get longer so dramatically.
17:24 So I'm going to go through and I'm going to connect into the graduation then into the
17:30 middle then into the top.
17:31 You can see I'm lifting up my elbow and that's making the angle.
17:37 So it's going shorter to longer over here.
17:42 Again taking my diagonal section, bringing this hair back.
17:47 I'm just coming back about two sections.
17:50 I really truly believe that over direction sets your work apart and allows you to design.
18:02 So this is up to you.
18:03 The over direction, the amount that I pull this hair back really is deciding my design
18:11 in the front and the length in the front.
18:14 I'll continue with that diagonal section and come back.
18:21 So I'm just working over from the side and layering from short over to long and this
18:30 is just going to give me a nice little asymmetric haircut which I think a lot of people enjoy.
18:38 It's just enough sometimes.
18:41 It's just enough drama without it being too weird.
18:48 Obviously you can also connect the other side too but I'm going to keep it a little bit
18:54 longer.
18:56 Keep that a bit of length through there.
18:57 So you can see it's falling over now and if I show you the other side then you can see
19:07 through here I have a big disconnection.
19:10 So this area is just falling over and I'm going to go back through now and go from the
19:16 front.
19:19 So I'm now going to do a diagonal section from the front and do a little bit of a kind
19:26 of a side sweeping fringe.
19:29 My finger angle is mirroring my section angle.
19:33 I'll go diagonal across and I'll simply over direct everything across to number one section
19:42 over here.
19:43 So diagonal sections on the top.
19:47 So what I've done is I've done haircuts S2 so that's my second haircut in the short series.
19:55 You will learn that cut on our advanced class which is in Seattle.
20:02 We have the foundation on the Sunday and the Monday so if you come into class hopefully
20:08 on Sunday and Monday I will look forward to meeting you and working with you and seeing
20:13 you there.
20:16 And then on the Tuesday and the Wednesday I'm going to be doing the advanced class which
20:22 will cover S3 and we'll be doing that on Tuesday and Wednesday.
20:32 So all I'm doing now is going through and just looking at my disconnection deciding
20:38 if I want to keep it.
20:39 I do want to keep it but it's a bit too much.
20:42 So I'm now going to go through and do a bit more pointing and just start to blend this
20:50 in deciding what I do and don't want.
21:00 And I'm going to also add some product and dry it a little bit and make it quite soft
21:05 and do some finishing work.
21:08 So to start with I'm just going to use a little bit of the Kuhn blend prep spray and I love
21:16 this one just to start with.
21:18 I'm going to use this as a starter product and you can see it looks great the other way
21:24 as well.
21:25 And I'm now going to go in and I like to put just a little bit of product in to work with
21:41 so I think I'm going to use a touch of the glue because I would like to get a bit of
21:46 hold in there and a little bit of finish.
21:49 And I like that texture so I'm going to put this in actually a little bit damp and then
21:56 start to work it in.
22:01 I do like to brush and comb my products in there first.
22:12 So you can see when I work it the other way it looks a lot more dramatic whereas when
22:18 it goes the other way it's a lot more soft.
22:22 So it's kind of cool in the fact that it has two different kind of feelings and I sometimes
22:28 like these longer pieces because you can play around with them or you can tuck them behind
22:33 the ear as well.
22:35 So all I'm going to do is use my dryer and use my fingers and work with it a little bit
22:43 slower and use my fingers to get some texture.
22:47 And I'd like to use a comb as well to blow dry that front down and make it behave a bit
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