Short Bob haircut tutorial - How to Cut a Short Bob
Transcript
00:00 [BLANK_AUDIO]
00:08 >> Hi guys.
00:10 >> Hey, good afternoon.
00:11 Welcome to Santa Monica Sassoon Academy.
00:14 My name's Stan Newton, Director of Education for North America.
00:19 Great to see you here on American Salon.
00:22 And Tracy is gonna be doing an amazing demonstration for you here.
00:26 So those of you that are gonna stay and watch for the whole term,
00:30 that's gonna be great.
00:31 We're gonna be answering questions for you.
00:34 I'm gonna direct your questions straight to Tracy.
00:37 So welcome, Tracy.
00:38 >> Hi guys.
00:40 Welcome, it's great to be here.
00:41 I always love to share hair.
00:43 Love when it's captured by Randy Taylor here.
00:46 And always excited to do some work for American Salon.
00:49 Okay, so Lauren here working on a bob, working with sections to graduate.
00:56 I just want a really kind of fit to the head, versatile look, but
01:01 a very chic, sharp edge.
01:03 So I'm gonna work here in the fingers, lots of tension, that'll graduate the edge.
01:08 The graduation basically will just take that hair, especially really thick hair,
01:12 which Lauren has, and get it to just have a bend and a bevel.
01:17 And that's even before blow dry.
01:20 So we really can and do have control of the hair.
01:23 Before we even think about finishing the hair, it's the shape that counts,
01:26 it's the cut that counts.
01:28 And that's all done with scissor and comb hair.
01:30 >> [INAUDIBLE]
01:34 >> I've got my voice in double,
01:36 that which is always good.
01:37 Okay, so horizontal sections.
01:40 Horizontal, I think.
01:41 I'm gonna talk a little bit how I teach in the academy.
01:44 So something like this would be something very typical you'd see either on an ABC
01:48 towards the end of the week, or on a salon creative.
01:52 And salon creative is really where we mix up our technique.
01:56 We still work strength of precision, but we start mixing up the techniques in
02:00 really modern ways to give proportions for the now.
02:04 So with this, a Bob look.
02:06 >> Julian and Gerard are on.
02:08 >> Heckling, hi guys.
02:11 They're doing Facebook Live challenges with us today, aren't they?
02:15 They're sparring, Facebook Live sparring with the boys.
02:19 Okay, so working through here horizontally.
02:22 Horizontal sections, just keep your hands down lower.
02:25 And I want the graduation to be low at the edge,
02:28 because then later I'll go through and layer and take some weight out of the hair.
02:33 So like I said, working more in a salon creative course,
02:36 this is something where we've combined some of these classical techniques to make
02:40 and create a look for now.
02:42 >> So we've got Smail from Morocco watching Tracy.
02:49 >> Wow, so it's Morocco, I'd like to be there now.
02:51 >> Yeah, and Jessica from Louisiana says hi.
02:57 >> Hi, Jessica.
03:00 >> And Gerard, of course, is commenting,
03:02 he's saying that there's no challenge, you are the queen.
03:05 >> [LAUGH] I'm not sure about that,
03:07 cuz I think right now he's sat home at my house and I'm here working.
03:12 >> [LAUGH]
03:18 >> Okay, so nice even tension,
03:20 I think that's really the key.
03:22 Clean comb, what I mean by that is just how the hair is combed from roots to ends.
03:28 And you see it's really, really clean.
03:30 The roots control the ends, that's how I look at it.
03:33 So if that's clean, when you release it, that edge is clean as well.
03:38 That's kind of one of, I like to just give out lots of little tips,
03:40 more than looking at this as a whole of a haircut.
03:44 So there'll be lots of little tips in this that people could take away and
03:47 use in different instances.
03:50 >> Okay, so we've had someone from Greece has joined us, Tracy.
03:54 So- >> I don't know any-
03:58 >> Christina from Greece.
03:59 >> Christina, hi Christina from Greece.
04:02 Where in Greece, Christina, let's ask her.
04:04 >> Yeah.
04:05 >> Can use with a little Mykonos right now.
04:10 Okay, so just getting that edge beveled.
04:16 Really aiming here with this kind of really square line.
04:20 I use the facial features obviously in body proportions, but
04:23 with something like this really aiming for the corner of the jaw.
04:26 It's my point of reference.
04:27 From there, just wrapping around so the bottom bulbous part of the lip,
04:31 which is a really beautiful feature I learned.
04:33 So when you're working your lines, I think that's key.
04:36 Remember your lines are like arrows, they point in a direction.
04:40 I mean, some of the things that I'll say are kind of rudimentary, but
04:44 I think sometimes when we're really busy, we forget.
04:47 And those things are super important.
04:48 If they just become part of your repertoire,
04:51 you kind of get things to fit straight away.
04:54 Suitability is key to it as well as precision.
04:57 >> So Tracy, we've got a question.
05:00 First question about hair is from Gerard.
05:03 >> Of course. >> From Hairbrain.
05:04 So thanks Gerard.
05:06 His question is, does your elevation differ if the hair is thicker?
05:14 >> Aha.
05:15 Good question, thank you Gerard.
05:18 And Gerard is the co-founder of Hairbrains.
05:22 And Gerard is an amazing hair cutter.
05:25 And thanks for the question Gerard.
05:27 So does the elevation differ?
05:29 It differs more independent of where you want the weight to sit
05:33 than the actual texture.
05:35 So you have to, I think always have look in mind.
05:38 That's kind of one of my mantras right now.
05:40 So you have to envision where you want the weight to sit
05:44 and the elevation will get you there.
05:46 I think length has everything to do with texture.
05:50 So on finer hair, this might have to be shorter and tighter
05:54 so I get the same tucked in little edge to the look.
05:57 Does that answer your question Gerard?
06:00 >> Yeah, let's see if he comments.
06:03 Another great question that's just come in.
06:05 I like the comb.
06:06 This is from Leanna.
06:09 She likes the comb.
06:10 What brand of comb is that
06:11 that you're working with today Tracy?
06:13 >> Thanks Leanna.
06:14 These are YS Park combs.
06:15 YS Park and they come in variations of color
06:18 or absence of, absence of sorry wrong one, absence of.
06:21 Which I love, clear comb.
06:23 And we do, this one I got at Salon International.
06:27 We sell them in our London Academy.
06:30 But I'd also like to give out a shout out to Eden Sassoon
06:36 and her little non-profit that supports clean water.
06:41 And she created a clear comb for Beauty Gives Back.
06:44 Clean water, clear comb.
06:50 Okay, so in the interest of time
06:52 I have done the whole of the other side.
06:56 And so what I could do now is use that.
06:58 I've worked to just the top of the ear
07:01 with the graduation, beveled the edge.
07:03 And now what I'll do is layer this through.
07:05 So I'll work vertical sections.
07:07 I'm gonna layer off the head, round it slightly through.
07:12 So there's my section.
07:17 It's a little bit, I'm a little bit higher.
07:19 So let me just resection that.
07:20 You see that, that's from the other side.
07:22 It's not easy to cut one half,
07:24 the whole of one half and the other half.
07:26 But we did that for this, for this exercise.
07:30 So normally in the salon if you're working on this,
07:33 you'd work your one side graduation,
07:35 other side graduation.
07:37 And then you work the whole of the back
07:39 with your layering technique.
07:41 So let's just get this resection
07:42 and then I'll do this for you guys.
07:44 Okay.
07:47 Sorry, Randy.
07:48 - Okay, we've got another question coming in, Tracy,
07:50 from Angelia Aguina.
07:53 She'd like to know,
07:55 will the bob have the 45 degree angle in the back?
08:01 - Will the bob have 45 degree,
08:02 the bob actually will be more of a square line.
08:06 So what that means is an evil,
08:09 evil, an evil proportion could be that today.
08:13 An equal proportion for front to back.
08:16 So what this is here is that through the front.
08:20 On the profile, the edge,
08:23 just the little edge is gonna be graduated.
08:26 So 45 degrees, 45 degrees,
08:29 so 45 if you think of it would be way up here.
08:31 So no, it won't, it won't.
08:33 It's gonna be layered through.
08:34 So it'll be very strategically layered.
08:37 The layering that's added here
08:38 is more for internal dynamics than creating a shape.
08:42 This is just layered and you'll see it's a very fine,
08:45 it's what I call take the edge off.
08:47 So you've put the weight in the hair,
08:48 it's very thick hair,
08:49 you've created your bevel on the edge.
08:51 Now I layer it just to take that
08:55 and sit it and fit it to a leaner silhouette
08:57 and just take the edge off the line.
08:59 But the line is still be very definitive in the end.
09:02 So vertical sections work in flatter square
09:06 to what we consider square to the head,
09:08 meaning drawing all the hair back
09:10 so that you maintain your corners
09:12 and length behind the ear.
09:13 - So Tracy, we're in the Santa Monica Academy, your home.
09:22 What kind of, is this typical of what
09:25 our students see here at the Academy?
09:28 - Yeah, I think it's what they see, what they do.
09:31 I mean, we work here and base everything we do
09:33 off of our proprietary techniques of lines,
09:36 layers and graduation and cutting.
09:38 And we work off the ABCs of cutting, ladies,
09:41 men's and color.
09:43 And so the way we teach, I mean, this is my home.
09:48 I've been here 20 years now teaching, I love it.
09:51 We have a cosmetology school here
09:53 and I love when I can get my hands in
09:56 and share hair with the young ones coming up.
10:00 And this is our advanced Academy as well.
10:02 So yeah, this is exactly at different levels
10:07 what you'd see or do if you attended the Academy.
10:10 We have many courses at many levels from ABC1, ABC2.
10:15 I kind of think of ABC1, it's new this year.
10:18 We started it last year, but I think this year
10:21 it's really gonna take on.
10:22 And I think it's like, for me, a prerequisite.
10:25 There's a lot of people that have been to Sassoon,
10:28 but there's a lot of people that haven't.
10:30 And they're the young ones that have just graduated
10:32 from another school or a young assistant
10:34 that's trying to kind of build their confidence
10:37 and get to the floor, to get on the floor
10:41 and take whatever apprenticeship exercise
10:44 they have in the salon.
10:45 And so I think of ABC1 is that as a prerequisite to Sassoon.
10:52 So anybody that hasn't been to us before,
10:55 ABC1 would be what I recommend to take.
10:58 I kind of, I mean, what I've done in my life,
11:02 it's created a career in education, literally.
11:05 And I kind of keep telling people
11:06 that's what they should do at Sassoon.
11:08 It's not just come here once or twice,
11:10 but through their whole career, have a career in education.
11:14 So every time they come here,
11:15 they might want to work on something else.
11:17 And there's many courses to kind of satisfy that,
11:21 that educational need.
11:23 Okay, so I'm just checking this through.
11:25 So lifting the hair up and out.
11:27 See that nice, clean, clean line there.
11:31 Okay.
11:33 - So Tracy, not only are we doing a demonstration
11:41 digitally live right now,
11:43 we're also demonstrating to some of our current students.
11:48 So maybe you perhaps just introduce them
11:51 or how we work both digitally
11:54 and utilize that in the academy here.
11:57 - Yeah, yeah.
12:00 Hi guys, wait.
12:02 Hi guys.
12:03 We have a new learner here.
12:06 I've asked him to hold sections, he's not ready for it.
12:11 But no, we have a few students
12:15 that weren't with clients today.
12:17 And so I've asked them to come up.
12:20 Obviously being used to having an audience,
12:22 it kind of doesn't feel right
12:23 if I don't have one that's live.
12:24 So we have one of our cosmetology students,
12:28 and we also have one of our comprehensive students.
12:31 And our comprehensive class is a six week class.
12:34 I think of it like a mini apprenticeship
12:37 for those that don't work for SISUN.
12:39 Two comp students.
12:43 Sorry, snuck in behind me.
12:45 And so hairdressers are ready, right you guys?
12:49 Hairdressers are ready and here honing their craft
12:52 and helping, you know, they come in
12:54 and it's one or two teachers
12:57 that take them through the six weeks
12:58 so we can really get them to their personal best
13:01 in the time that they're here
13:02 and help them achieve their goals and techniques.
13:05 Okay, so what I've done is I layered through that panel
13:12 and then I'm going to take another section
13:15 and cut it on the graduation.
13:17 It's about a comb's width section, yeah?
13:19 And that section will be left out,
13:23 it won't be layered through.
13:24 Then I'm going to take a panel from here through to the sides
13:28 just above the parietal ridge.
13:29 That panel's going to get layered through
13:31 and will sit on top of that.
13:33 So what we have is a little graduated edge
13:35 that's layered out, a strip of hair that's cut one length,
13:40 and then a layer that sits on top of it, okay?
13:42 Does that make sense?
13:46 - To me.
13:46 - To me?
13:47 - Yes.
13:48 - Let's see if we get some questions from our audience.
13:50 - Check in with our audience.
13:52 - Yeah.
13:53 Let's see.
13:56 - Okay.
13:57 Quite high on the head, you only need a little bit
14:01 to fall over, especially with this amount of hair
14:03 'cause you don't want to do all this intricate little work
14:06 and then have the whole, the top just plop back over it.
14:09 The reason to do all this intricate work
14:11 is to just have a little bit of a different edge to the hair
14:15 and also to create some versatility,
14:17 meaning the hair can be moved around and parted differently
14:19 and look completely different.
14:21 All right, so what you do is you don't have to clip out
14:24 that little disconnected panel.
14:27 You can just continue your line
14:29 until you get through to the front,
14:32 which is what I'll do now,
14:33 and then we'll separate it later.
14:36 So just continue as if you're working
14:39 a very classical horizontal graduation.
14:41 And then ABCs, if you want to learn
14:44 how to do this really well, I tell people to study,
14:46 it's what we call AB.
14:49 So it's a bob with graduation,
14:51 which is very different than a graduated bob, I think.
14:54 And it's done horizontally,
14:55 beautifully done by Marques on the DVDs.
14:59 - Ah, so here's an interesting question.
15:13 How do you be a part of the Sassoon team?
15:16 - Good question, great question.
15:20 - And that's from Nikolai.
15:23 I'm not sure where Nikolai is from.
15:24 - Where does Nikolai live?
15:25 'Cause it could be different in different countries.
15:26 - I'm not sure, let's have a look.
15:28 Yeah, I can't.
15:32 - I mean, to start answering that question,
15:34 I think with Sassoon, it's got a long heritage and history,
15:39 and it started with the Amman.
15:42 And I think most people come towards it
15:45 and are attracted to it because of those two things.
15:48 Once in it, I think the dedication to the standard
15:51 is what keeps people in it, the ongoing education.
15:55 So like anywhere else, we have an interview process.
16:00 And if someone's interested in working for Sassoon,
16:03 they go through that interview process.
16:05 And from there, we have a very set training program
16:08 that everyone at any level that begins with us
16:11 starts in the same manner.
16:13 And it's an apprenticeship.
16:15 And it's set from anywhere from nine months to two years,
16:21 24 months, depending on the individual,
16:24 depending on the timing, depending on the need.
16:27 There's a lot of variables in that,
16:28 depending on the level of experience
16:30 someone comes to us with.
16:32 And it's a very structured, very consistent training program
16:38 for obvious reasons.
16:41 Because I think if you wanna get good at anything,
16:43 and I know a lot of people that are around me
16:45 have heard me say this regularly,
16:46 but I really believe that you have to practice perfectly.
16:50 So we take people through the haircut step by step
16:53 and the understanding of cutting hair
16:55 and the understanding of the principles
16:57 and suitability and how those things tie in
17:02 in time management to be a really successful stylist
17:07 in one of our salons.
17:09 Someone then wants to be a teacher with us.
17:12 Generally, their first success needs to be in the salon
17:16 building a clientele so that they can show and share
17:19 that the techniques work and prove that's worth
17:22 to themselves and prove that they can be successful.
17:26 Because what we have here in the academy
17:28 are very, very successful hairdressers
17:31 that come to us weekly.
17:32 And what they're looking to do
17:34 is to learn how to do hair like this
17:37 and to better their technique.
17:39 And their businesses are very good.
17:41 So we wanna make sure the people that teach them
17:43 understand that part of them.
17:45 - So we're getting some great interaction, Tracy.
17:49 Sorry to cut in.
17:50 Somebody's saying that they were here in October
17:53 and were taught by Colton.
17:55 What an amazing experience.
17:57 So that's really good.
17:59 Somebody's also asking about the tools that you're using,
18:02 in particular your scissors.
18:04 So maybe you could--
18:06 - Magic scissors, they are.
18:07 - Magic, of course.
18:10 - Magic scissors.
18:11 - Share the magic.
18:12 (laughing)
18:14 - These are Hakari New Cosmos, which I love.
18:18 I think they're really perfect for the work that we do.
18:22 I think like any craft, your tools have to match.
18:25 There's always the question of tools.
18:27 And the tools have to match.
18:29 So it's as soon, the tools that we choose to use,
18:32 the tools that we choose, let's see if I can get this out.
18:35 (imitates air whooshing)
18:36 To sell or retail are tools that really fit
18:40 cutting hair in a very technical manner,
18:43 coloring hair in a very technical manner.
18:45 And they fit the craft.
18:47 Craft hairdressing really is what it is.
18:49 And so they're good quality and they work for us.
18:55 So yeah, these are Hakari New Cosmos.
18:57 They're my favorite.
18:58 I've used them for,
18:59 I've used a lot of different scissors in the time,
19:01 but these are it for me.
19:03 Over 20 years, these have been the ones
19:04 that I've always been in love with.
19:06 - So somebody's asking, can you say that again, Hakari?
19:12 So yeah, if you just share exactly the name
19:15 of the scissors, Trace.
19:17 - Hakari New Cosmos.
19:19 Japanese company is Hakari.
19:21 And the scissor itself is New Cosmos.
19:27 - She just has an H-A-K and in her spelling it's H-I-K.
19:30 - Yeah, H-I-K, oh right.
19:33 - It's a Jersey accent that doesn't always translate.
19:38 My stumpy nose.
19:39 - And if they're not here in California or anywhere else,
19:43 can they get those online?
19:45 - No, actually Hakaris do not sell online.
19:49 So they'd have to get them from one of our academies.
19:53 We do retail them in all of our academies.
19:55 Our academies, we have Toronto, we have New York City,
19:59 we have Atlanta, we have Chicago,
20:03 we have Seattle, San Francisco, Los Angeles.
20:08 There we are.
20:09 That's where we are.
20:10 And that's where you can find us.
20:14 Okay, so I just worked up to this panel.
20:19 Really just brought everything down to the line.
20:22 A lot of people question here,
20:24 I'll ask the question and answer it as well.
20:26 So I think it's an important part here.
20:28 About the ear.
20:30 And I think when you learn in the beginning,
20:32 you have to have rules.
20:34 And everybody's afraid of getting
20:36 that dreaded hole over the ear.
20:38 And I think if you're working with fine hair
20:41 and you're working with a true line
20:42 where everything is cut down in the teeth of the comb,
20:44 you have to be really cautious of that,
20:46 even if it's a flat-lying ear.
20:48 But when you're in the fingers and you're graduating
20:50 and the hair is meant to be lift and beveled in,
20:53 you don't really have to worry about that so much.
20:57 But you still have to keep it in mind.
20:58 So what I really do is I separate over the ear
21:03 and I think of what falls behind the ear
21:06 and I work that with slight,
21:08 a little bit of backward over direction.
21:11 And that's where I'd work.
21:13 And then when I go to join in this area at the front,
21:16 especially with the first section,
21:19 I then pick that piece up and I come back in.
21:21 So I almost elevate over the ear
21:24 so it'll leave realistically that little piece there.
21:28 So when the hair lifts, it flattens out.
21:30 - Yeah, so somebody's saying that our model is beautiful.
21:35 - She is. - Tracy.
21:36 - She is.
21:38 - And just a confirmation, please,
21:39 on the size, your preferred size of scissor.
21:43 Is that five inches? - Five, yeah.
21:45 Five inches, yeah.
21:47 Thought I was being set up there.
21:50 - No, none of that.
21:52 (laughs)
21:54 Okay, so now I'm gonna layer the hair.
21:58 So what I've done is I'll just section this out.
22:01 And interesting is the layering.
22:03 What I'm gonna do is take a vertical section
22:05 and I'm gonna pivot, pivot, pivot all the way through
22:08 till I get to the front of the ear
22:09 and then I'll be working over the head horizontally.
22:12 All right, so I'll take that little sliver out
22:15 that comes with above the layering.
22:18 Let's get that section and find it.
22:21 And you can clip it away, I clip it away.
22:23 It won't go away unless you cut through it.
22:26 But I'm gonna clip it away so you guys can see what it is
22:30 and where it is.
22:33 Okay, so if I lift it up, Randy can capture this.
22:38 So we've got the graduation
22:42 and then I layered off the graduation
22:46 and then there's my panel disconnection
22:47 that was just tied on.
22:49 So I'm just gonna clip and leave that out
22:51 so that's not layered, nothing's done to that,
22:53 it's just tied onto the line.
22:55 What I think is really modern right now
22:56 is having a lot of disconnection internally
23:01 but it doesn't hang over the shape.
23:02 That's kind of my thing right now.
23:04 I think that looks really cool.
23:07 All right, so I can clip that away
23:09 and then I can start the layering.
23:11 First time you do it, you might wanna clip it away
23:12 just because what will naturally happen sometimes
23:14 is you'll kind of go through it
23:15 and then that gets layered too.
23:17 But it'll be this nice little fin of length
23:19 when the hair is pulled out
23:21 that'll have some structure to it
23:22 'cause it hasn't been layered.
23:24 All right, so let's do a vertical section right here.
23:29 - So thanks for the tip around the ears, Tracy.
23:33 - You're welcome.
23:34 - I believe we're getting some interaction there.
23:35 Tracy, people have been sort of saying
23:38 the hair looks very thick, she's got a lot of hair.
23:41 How have you prepared the hair?
23:43 Have you used any products to help you?
23:45 - No, shampoo, conditioner.
23:49 Nothing to prep the hair with.
23:51 I don't really work with any cutting lotions
23:55 or anything to prep the hair.
23:57 I mean, I've chosen things you may need to
23:59 because of the time that you're doing
24:01 and the process is very different than in the salon.
24:03 But in the salon, shampoo, condition,
24:06 really the hair shine and everything is from the color.
24:10 This was colored a few days ago.
24:13 We work with Wella.
24:15 We will post a color formula in the comments later
24:18 and a finished look on Lauren later.
24:21 And I will prep the hair with styling products
24:26 before I do a blow dry.
24:28 But the way I use styling product is really just
24:30 to maximize shine and flexibility of the hair.
24:34 Not a lot to make the look.
24:36 The look is being cut in right now.
24:38 All right, so you see how I'm just pivoting through here
24:44 and as I'm pivoting, I'm elevating higher and higher.
24:48 (scissors snipping)
24:51 So what I do is leave the length that's cut
24:53 onto the graduation right there.
24:54 It's in my knuckle.
24:56 And I layer everything out from above it.
24:59 That sits on top of that little one length fin.
25:02 And just pivot right around.
25:08 It's salon time, you guys.
25:14 I think I'm doing it right.
25:16 I'm not sure.
25:17 Okay, guys.
25:20 So for anybody that's just joined,
25:27 working a very salon friendly, I think, look.
25:31 - Speaking of Robert Cronin's just joined.
25:33 (laughing)
25:34 - Hello, Robert.
25:37 One of my favorite people.
25:39 Robert describes me sometimes and he introduces me.
25:43 I hope I'm okay if I say this.
25:45 But he introduces me, he said, "This is Tracy.
25:47 "Do you know who she is?"
25:49 She's a creative director for Sassoon
25:51 and she cuts hair with a very small pair of scissors.
25:54 (laughing)
25:56 And I love that.
25:57 - He says that.
25:57 (laughing)
25:59 - Robert says hi.
26:00 - We just spent a week, I just spent a week in Hawaii
26:05 and watched Robert cut hair, actually.
26:08 And vacation and holiday.
26:09 - So Tracy, it's been a very busy time for us.
26:14 We've had ISSI.
26:16 What's your movements and where can people maybe see you
26:21 or get more hands on experience education with you
26:25 or any of that?
26:26 - Oh yeah, well we're here, here full time.
26:29 Basically Sassoon education is seven days a week.
26:32 As much as we do internally in our academies,
26:34 we do externally.
26:35 So for instance, next week I'll be going to Austin, Texas
26:39 doing an in-salon seminar.
26:41 I do a lot of that kind of work
26:42 where we go to someone's salon
26:44 and work with the whole of their team.
26:46 - Sassoon Direct.
26:48 - It's called Sassoon Direct, yeah.
26:50 And it's an in-salon seminar.
26:52 And then this year we'll be at ABS,
26:58 which is what's next in the big venues.
27:01 ABS Chicago.
27:02 And what we'll be doing there,
27:03 which I'm really excited about
27:05 'cause that's my favorite thing,
27:06 is we're doing a classroom.
27:08 And what that means, it's gonna be more of this.
27:09 Step by step, finished looks obviously,
27:12 but you're gonna see everything wet to dry
27:14 and the colors applied and how we work together as a team
27:18 in that aspect as well.
27:20 And then from there we'll be in New York
27:22 celebrating 100 years of ABS.
27:24 - Wow.
27:25 - But everything in between and at all levels.
27:28 Most recently, which I think is cool,
27:30 and I'll be doing one of these soon too,
27:32 next week I think, one to ones.
27:36 So I have two girls coming in to do one day
27:40 of cutting with me and at the same time
27:42 a day of color with Lucas.
27:44 And that'll be really cool 'cause we'll share the models.
27:47 Yeah, and this year, you know what I did?
27:51 I put in two day courses that I'll be teaching,
27:55 which I'm really excited about
27:57 because I think over the years people have said to me,
28:01 really busy stylist, I really wanna come,
28:03 but I just need a couple days with you
28:05 and I need it more often.
28:06 So we've done that, that's super exciting.
28:09 But yeah, all the time, all the time, anywhere.
28:12 Like I said, all the academies.
28:14 We have an amazing academy and team
28:16 that's teaching in New York,
28:19 led by Martin Duff and Elaine Mitchell.
28:21 And they're amazing and so much fun.
28:24 And that's a great two days to spend with soon
28:27 if you're on the East Coast.
28:29 Okay, so the layering here just fits everything back down.
28:34 So it just gives you that really lean silhouette.
28:36 We can take these little clips out
28:38 and then we can tie in the top.
28:41 Working off a center parting with this.
28:44 Working off the center part.
28:46 So I'll just continue my Bob story now through the top.
28:49 Everything comes back down,
28:50 disregard the layering that was just put in.
28:52 Everything comes back down on the edge.
28:55 There's this really cool melon streak in here too,
28:59 which I love.
29:00 Was made, it's not hers, it was put in.
29:02 But I think it's a really cool idea for dark hair.
29:06 Just as a natural one would be.
29:09 And that was done not too long ago.
29:12 We have a collection course here,
29:13 which we work off the collections.
29:15 And actually, I give Marques the credit for that, right?
29:18 He was the one that said, "Give her a melon streak."
29:20 So it's just kind of really beautiful gray,
29:24 which is a really great color for the moment.
29:28 And again, the formulas.
29:29 We'll put the formulas in the comments.
29:32 Okay, so I'm gonna continue, like I said, my Bob story.
29:35 So just working as you would classically, lots of tension.
29:38 Like I said, clean comb, roots to ends.
29:41 Bring in all the hair down.
29:42 What I tend not to do is that,
29:44 which means grip all the hair together,
29:46 'cause that's when you get that heavy step.
29:49 What I do is I section the new section.
29:51 I can find it.
29:54 Let's see where it is.
29:54 Let's get it, let's get it, let's get it.
29:56 And then I pre-section.
29:59 And then I pre-section, so I'm holding about,
30:02 I mean, I always reference a comb.
30:03 Like, the comb's with the hair, yeah?
30:05 So I do that.
30:08 So that's clean, that's clean.
30:10 That gives you the control
30:11 to actually elevate a little bit more, okay?
30:15 Let's get this cleaned up.
30:17 How we doing for time, you guys?
30:21 We good, Randy?
30:21 - Just like three minutes, now.
30:23 - Good, all right, I'm there.
30:25 And then what we're gonna do is we're gonna,
30:29 I'll recap and do a close.
30:30 I'm gonna blow dry off camera,
30:33 and we'll actually put the finished look in the comments
30:38 with the formula, with the color formula.
30:58 So Tracy, you're gonna be blow drying off camera
31:01 and present the final look.
31:03 So how will you do that?
31:06 What will you do?
31:08 How will you do that?
31:09 What sort of--
31:10 - I was hoping you'd do it, actually.
31:11 (laughing)
31:12 - I can do it if you want me to, for sure.
31:16 - Okay, blow dry, flat back, vest brush.
31:19 Simple, it's simple hair.
31:20 It's really beautifully straight hair.
31:23 Like I said, the bevel in it was cut in.
31:27 So I'll put in, you know, the product formulation,
31:30 I mean, we're using IME, but the product formulation
31:32 that I use overall, whatever brand you use,
31:36 is what I call expensive water.
31:39 So some kind of leave-in conditioner
31:40 that really softens the hair
31:43 and brings out its natural texture.
31:46 And then a heat protect of some sort.
31:49 And then if you need more than that
31:51 to give the hair a little bit of structure and malleability,
31:54 then you can use something in that line.
31:57 So it's usually two or three products that I use to prep,
32:00 but the end result, you don't actually see product
32:02 or read product.
32:03 - So Tracy, are you gonna be heading to IBS NYC?
32:09 That's another question that's just come in.
32:10 - Yeah, absolutely.
32:12 I'd hate to miss that one.
32:13 That's my hometown.
32:15 I started with Sassoon in New York City.
32:17 So yeah, this year we will be presenting on stage at IBS.
32:21 It's their 100 year anniversary,
32:23 and we'll be presenting our latest collection
32:25 on stage on Monday.
32:27 Right now, we also run all our two-day courses
32:40 from New York as well,
32:41 and they're running from the Welles Studio,
32:44 which is down in Soho.
32:46 And so that's really cool to be able to be
32:47 in that really beautiful space and share hair.
32:53 It's led by Martin, Zephanie, and Mitchell.
32:56 They're amazing, very experienced Sassoon
32:58 creative team members,
33:01 and they have a blast teaching the courses in New York.
33:05 Randy, I cannot see my balance,
33:07 but you just let me know if it's okay.
33:09 Yeah, it looks good.
33:11 I think, Mark and I joke around,
33:13 if it looks good, it's good.
33:15 Right, 'cause I think when you have this much hair,
33:17 if you pull and tug too much,
33:19 you kind of feel it for something,
33:20 but what you need to do is just use your eyes.
33:22 Have the look in mind first, your technique will follow.
33:26 So a little versatile bob,
33:27 we'll go through the sectioning pattern,
33:29 and then we'll close it out.
33:30 - Great, so Tracy, a quick question on that.
33:32 Something very late tuning in.
33:35 There are questions about the layering.
33:37 Is it all internal?
33:38 So with your recap, I'm sure you'll cover it.
33:40 - Yeah, with the recap, I'll cover that off.
33:42 Great question.
33:43 All the layering is internal,
33:44 and it's in little, fine little panels.
33:47 So you won't see it.
33:48 The overall look is a bob,
33:50 but when the hair is provoked or moved around,
33:53 you really be able to see more texture, air in a sense.
33:57 I always think of like air, you've put some air in there.
34:00 So instead of relying on texturizing sometimes
34:02 to get that edge in hair,
34:05 I'm really using disconnections,
34:07 just subtle disconnections to do that.
34:09 Okay, I'm just gonna work this edge actually,
34:12 which I forgot about.
34:13 I'm sorry.
34:18 So lots of tension on the skin.
34:20 Back of comb I use.
34:23 You can use your hand too,
34:24 but I find the hand casts a shadow.
34:26 Right now I can use all the light that I can get.
34:31 Okay, so just following the natural contour
34:34 of the neck there.
34:36 Coming around, I always lift the chin up
34:38 to work behind the ear.
34:40 And just a little, tiny little C-shaping there,
34:43 just so you don't lose that corner,
34:45 which is really important.
34:48 - Great comments, Tracy.
34:50 Everybody's loving what you're doing.
34:51 It looks great on camera, that line.
34:53 - Well, that's good.
34:56 I've been practicing perfectly for a very long time.
34:59 All right, so we've got that in.
35:03 All right, so quick recap, you guys, yeah?
35:06 All right, so here we go.
35:07 So starting out in the fingers, on the skin,
35:10 one finger, when I teach it, I teach people,
35:13 I give them references.
35:14 So I say one finger off the skin,
35:17 two fingers off the skin, three fingers off the,
35:22 just enough to bevel the edge.
35:24 So they say how high to lift.
35:25 If you want a number, I won't give it to you.
35:27 It's a visual, have the look in mind.
35:28 We just want the edge of the hair,
35:30 instead of it to thatch or stack out,
35:32 we want it to bevel and curve.
35:34 So I've worked that to the top of the ear.
35:36 Once we got to the top of the ear,
35:38 I took vertical sections and I layered it out.
35:40 Easy to find all this too, 'cause people say,
35:42 "Well, how are you gonna do that again?"
35:44 Well, all the sections are really clean
35:46 and all the panels are really clean,
35:47 so you can find them easily and pick them up easily.
35:52 So then we went vertically,
35:54 picked and layered that up.
35:59 Then we left the combs without,
36:01 and I'll show you that separation.
36:04 Let's get this vertically,
36:06 and I think Randy can get it that way,
36:07 nice wide section to share, okay?
36:10 So you see where the, and I choose,
36:12 it's all about the head shape.
36:13 So you see where the head's really flattest?
36:15 That's where the disconnection,
36:17 the little strappy piece or fin of hair,
36:21 a fin of length is.
36:23 So let's take that vertically and lift this out.
36:26 There's the layers, there's the panel.
36:33 Let's cut onto the graduation.
36:35 And then we went from the crown,
36:37 just slightly down to the temple area.
36:40 And that whole middle panel was layered through
36:42 and cut on the line.
36:44 Then the final panel is this narrow triangle,
36:46 sit back in the crown,
36:48 so some of it falls over the crown area.
36:51 Narrow triangle, and all that was cut down
36:54 with lots of tension in the fingers on the line.
36:57 From there, you can clean up your hairline.
36:59 When you look at it, you just have this beautiful,
37:02 chic, sharp, that's what she said,
37:04 Lauren just said, "I just want a sharp bob."
37:06 I said, "Great."
37:07 And just have this really beautiful sharp bob,
37:10 it has all these internal dynamics.
37:12 Here's how the side looks if we lift this out.
37:14 This one, Randy, as well.
37:16 So everything under the round of the head was layered.
37:21 There's your layering panel there.
37:24 And then this, all of this was cut back onto the line.
37:27 So there's your separation.
37:29 So it just creates that,
37:31 which creates some different kind of movement.
37:33 And like I said, most people might think
37:35 for this kind of textural edge bob
37:37 when they dress it in that manner,
37:39 would kind of cut it heavy and then take the weight out,
37:42 whether it be razors or scissors, some kind of freehand.
37:45 What I like to do is exhaust my technique.
37:47 If you know something, use it in creative ways
37:52 and challenge it.
37:53 And that's kind of what the idea is
37:55 on doing something like this.
37:58 For those of you in the salon, these things are important.
38:01 These things are gonna keep you interested in your work,
38:03 keep you enjoying your work, and most importantly,
38:07 keep your clients coming back
38:08 as they'll feel that something's different.
38:10 May have a similar look,
38:12 but they're gonna feel there's something different for sure.
38:15 Okay, I'm good.
38:17 - Okay, so-
38:19 - One more question?
38:20 - No, Gerald's saying how steady your hands are, Randy,
38:23 after traveling so many miles today.
38:26 - Three trips to like-
38:27 - We've had some great interaction, it's fantastic.
38:30 - Randy's not here, it's a tripod.
38:34 - I'm just kidding.
38:36 - Okay, guys, so thank you.
38:40 Thank you, guys, everyone for sharing your time with us,
38:44 whether it be a few minutes or the whole of it.
38:47 I thank you, it's always a pleasure to share here.
38:49 American Salon, thank you for always giving me
38:51 this little platform to do so on.
38:56 And we'll see the finished look in the comments.