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CreativityTranscript
00:00 This is Gordon Miller with American Salon and I am in Chicago at Sassoon Academy with lead instructor Travis Smith
00:06 And you're gonna do two haircuts for us today. Somehow someway. Yes
00:09 Travis is one of my favorite hair cutters and of course we love Sassoon. It's the gold standard in education globally
00:15 So again, we're really excited to be here. You've got two models. I'm gonna step out of the way
00:19 We encourage you to ask questions
00:21 We'll be feeding questions and comments over to Travis and he'll be filling you in on all the details behind both these beautiful cuts.
00:27 Cool, sounds good. Thank you
00:29 So I have two cuts one is already pretty much done and through
00:34 Basically just for the essence of time. I started this cut and I wanted to do two graduated bumps
00:40 And rather than do the typical triangular look which I think we've seen done quite a bit
00:44 I want to mix it up a little bit one of the shapes
00:47 I feel like people are very scared to cut is more of a round shape and around shape is going to be
00:51 short to the front long to the back and
00:54 Really when you do that, you're gonna put a lot more essence on the cheekbones of the jawline and all that
00:59 So the cut I did on Vieto right now
01:03 Which amazing color by Marshall is we worked a very slim graduation to the back and hair cutters
01:10 Hair dressers in general we have kind of certain things that we always do with graduation. Maybe like a certain sectioning pattern
01:16 That's just not really copy haircuts. We have techniques
01:20 So I worked more of a vertical sectioning to really slim down the head shape
01:24 So the graduation is not gonna be a really lumpy kind of heavy graduated bulb
01:28 And then we worked a little bit of a round line up here
01:31 Which I'm gonna refine once it's dry and then what's really fun is right in through the top. I
01:36 Worked a nice little bit of layering and then connected all the front panels right in through here
01:43 Which is really going to open up the face and create kind of a cool texture and then this panel
01:48 Is gonna kind of fall over it. So I'm not gonna waste any more time. I'm gonna get started
01:53 so we're gonna go into the center back and
01:55 We work in vertical diagonal sections
01:59 So you can kind of see I already have the previous guy right through there
02:06 So when I create graduation vertically what creates the amount of weight it's two things
02:15 It's where I comb hair which is the over direction of the haircut. That's also the finger angle
02:20 So how far I keep the fingertips or the knuckles away from the top of the head?
02:25 So right now since I don't really want a crazy heavy shape I'm only really over directing to the previous
02:33 So it's bringing it right through here
02:44 And I'll just cut past my second knuckle just for the fear of maybe cutting my finger open
02:48 But just for the sake of it, I really want to keep that line really consistent
02:53 So this kind of graduation when I'm working something a bit slimmer
03:08 This is not really gonna set you up for a traditional bob where it's very short
03:12 It's long there are more kind of leaner of a shape you do through here. This area is gonna go away
03:18 So the fact I'm doing around shape all this kind of supports that idea
03:22 But if I really want to make sure that this was intact, I'd want to keep this hair farther away from the ear
03:27 So everything is just a traveling guide
03:29 I think one of the things that really helps me be successful with cutting is really keeping a clean area
03:56 So when I hold the comb I hold the comb quite a bit lower than most people do
03:59 It's one of the first things I really have my students do that's kind of takes them a little bit out of their comfort zone
04:04 Because you get a lot more control, especially if you have kind of bigger fingertips like I do
04:08 So I'm just gonna go through a cross check
04:11 So when I cross check my work, I really shouldn't see too much to cut and if I did
04:15 Then I need to go back and take a look at it again
04:24 Now I think you have to really cross check every section
04:27 For me, I kind of have little key points or almost little like stop zones little red lights
04:33 Or I want to kind of check the work before I move on
04:35 So it's kind of checking the balance
04:43 And I get away the camera just yell at me over there
04:54 You're okay we can see okay, all right, so that's complete so now we're gonna move up the head
04:59 And some of the inspiration from this cut was from a haircut done by Martin Duff
05:07 Is a director at Sissou and he did this haircut on the ABCs which was
05:11 Graduation in the layers and some of the inspiration is from our new collection Poetica
05:16 So the layering on top
05:18 I admired my Silvia Solerno section pattern
05:22 So as they move up the head the client-side position is really important
05:25 So making sure that the heads down and the reason for that is because when you graduate hair
05:29 You're pulling the hair away from the head
05:31 So if you have the head down it's gonna give you much more of a tendency to keep that graduation being built
05:37 Whereas if you have the head up all bad things can really happen
05:40 So just going right through here
05:48 Really making sure I have the fingertips pulled back or just continue that graduation internally to the top
05:54 And we're really just using the same over directions same sectioning pattern
06:11 So
06:13 The cross shocks gonna be the same way as well
06:35 Now if you're really worried about keeping this length right up through here a lot of that's your body position
06:54 So the more that your body is off to the side by the ear you kind of get the little hole right there
06:59 It's usually your body position because you kind of see hair from this perspective
07:03 But if you move back you really see the fact that it's actually gonna be curving up that goes for a line
07:07 Or any kind of graduation. So your body position always really supports the shape
07:11 All right
07:21 So from here
07:24 I'm actually gonna switch to working an outline right now
07:27 The reason why I'm gonna work an outline is because I want to keep the outline intact
07:32 So if I cut a line right now at the bottom, which is the strongest technique we do as a students we call it A
07:36 It's gonna almost well it's A gonna give a lot of strength to the hair and show off the cheekbones rather
07:42 But at the same time it's almost gonna act like a stop sign
07:45 So I won't graduate hair too short
07:48 It's always nice to be on video with blue hair and a white robe but you know, no pressure
07:57 *sweeping*
07:59 Cool
08:07 So when you work a line the client's head position is very very very important
08:15 The clients chin is down. You really are kind of playing a guessing game to be honest with you
08:20 It's one of the first things we really go over in a work session
08:24 So what I teach at Sisu is we do lectures, we do demonstrations and then you guys cut hair
08:30 It's obviously the funnest part of it
08:33 And one of the things we talk about is the client body position a lot of times because our clients are so kind of
08:38 I guess into their cell phone. They're digitized
08:41 That a lot of times everybody's heads just down and that really doesn't give you much of a fighting chance to get it, right
08:47 so I'm working a curved shape working upward and
08:52 what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna comb the hair using quite a bit of tension and
08:55 I'm using the comb almost as a way to kind of trace the line
09:00 So we do have a little bit of an ear there
09:12 So I'm just gonna really lighten up on the tension
09:16 (Combing hair)
09:18 So right now it may look like I have a little extra once we blow-dry that
09:26 We may have a little extra, but I definitely don't want to have a hole right there
09:30 Just kind of a main game plan with that. So I'm gonna bring down all the sections to that point
09:35 Still cutting the same shape
09:44 Now the hair behind the ear I feel like I get a little bit more freedom
09:48 Not just the earring that's getting caught with the hair
09:51 And so right here I can use just a little bit more tension because that hair is not really gonna fall over the ear
09:57 Then when I bring this hair over we're really just matching it up
10:04 So the model's head position is gonna be more chin up and then we're just gonna continue that line upward to the front
10:13 And the shape that I'm cutting I feel like most hairdressers like run away from it immediately
10:19 The thing is they maybe think of like a bad bowl cut or like a Corey Feldman bowl cut from the 80s
10:26 Bad haircut from their childhood, but really you can work a nice round shape and do it much more modernly
10:32 So so far we have the graduation back here and then we have a line right to the front
10:39 So now what we're to do is we're enjoying the graduation
10:42 From the front and then bring it all the way back. So I'm actually to use a lot more over direction now
10:50 Of course we somehow have really creepy gothic music playing in the background
11:11 *music*
11:21 It's Chelsea Wolfe, which is my one of my girlfriend's favorite so I did it for you Sarah
11:24 *music*
11:29 So you can see how the graduation is gonna continue to the front now, we're just gonna bring this hair straight to the back
11:37 *music*
11:40 Now I don't really want to cut anything too far above the parietal ridge because we are going to be doing a
11:45 Little bit of a fun disconnection
11:47 And that's the thing with this connection is you don't want to connect it
11:51 *music*
12:12 Just bring all this hair to one stationary guy
12:14 And that's another thing is this over direction something that you've been cutting hair for a while
12:19 You kind of get stuck in your ways with it. Like you have your go-to haircuts
12:23 You kind of pull everything almost like muscle memory. But really if you think about it
12:27 I went from barely any over direction whatsoever hugging the back of the head and then all of a sudden
12:31 I'm gonna have a ton of over direction because they're blank
12:33 So really it's all about what you want to see within the haircut. I
12:38 Was gonna preach there's no really right or wrong at the end of the day. You're gonna make somebody look better or not
12:44 So hopefully I make her look a lot better. I'm sure Kim looks quite pretty
12:50 So the top now
12:52 I'm just gonna get her sectioned off because I have kind of a curved section right through here
13:02 How we doing Gordon we doing all right
13:18 So we're gonna give her a shorter version today, which will be fun to see as well. So if you look at it
13:23 Right through here. You can see a
13:26 Little bit of hair and that's be the guide for what we cut through here
13:31 So there's gonna be a little bit of a curved section right and through the top
13:43 So this part really imperative that you comb this back we're just gonna keep this out of the way for now
13:49 We're gonna do the same thing over here
13:52 Now layering this short especially with a round shape can be very intimidating
14:03 It's loosely inspired from a haircut called the shape which is actually a much longer haircut
14:08 So the shape itself what we're looking at is the top
14:12 Is me working with the rounds of the head so it's slowly gonna get longer
14:16 But the actual shape itself is gonna work from here to here to here to here to here
14:21 And the key point of that is by lifting this hair up you keep this hair down at the bottom
14:26 So what I'm gonna do first is just get a guide
14:34 Right down the middle. So I'm actually gonna start off more vertically and then I'm gonna switch
14:40 To horizontal sections. So I really want to use the curve of my fingertips to create the shape
14:45 So you can see I'm bringing this hair straight up
14:48 And I'm just cutting right through there
14:54 And when I use my scissors, if you notice I cut this very slowly a little bits at a time
14:59 I'm not just like one two because the more you kind of chomp with your scissors the more of a big old blunt corner
15:05 You're gonna put on the hair
15:06 And most hair looks better when everything's quite curved of course unless you're cutting a square
15:11 So I'll do one more section and then I'm gonna switch hand positions
15:22 And the thing is when people cut fringe everybody's immediately like I'm gonna hold the hair down and then I'm gonna basically point cut it and
15:35 At the end of the day if you want to add more texture
15:37 Layering the fringes always a pretty dull move unless the hair is quite fine
15:41 So we have a nice guide in through the top
15:45 And now I'm gonna switch my hand position
15:48 So I'm gonna take sections that are angled backwards
15:57 Actually, I'll be right here
16:03 Is that better for you?
16:05 We knew this was gonna happen
16:07 Okay, so you can see we have the guide right through here
16:11 So the center of it's gonna be a little bit more square and then as I go through the sides
16:17 It's gonna curve this slightly
16:24 And now the key thing is is elevating this hair up
16:31 So I'm not really gonna be cutting the bottom too much
16:33 So my sections are gonna be over directed forward
16:38 So the funny thing is hair cutting a lot of the time
16:45 I think we make a lot more complicated than it is and Sassoon's the way that we teach people
16:50 The techniques the idea of it is actually pretty simple
16:54 Executing it and trying to figure out how everything kind of fits together
16:58 That's a little bit more challenging
16:59 But if you really think about it the shape I cut so far you have some grab that pushes forward
17:03 Align that opens up the face and then some layers that we pushing back
17:07 Okay, so we're gonna have the last section so still over directing forward
17:18 I am incorporating the hair I cut from the back
17:28 And over directing it forward
17:30 So anything that really is gonna reach we're all gonna bring that forward to a traveling guide
17:41 So you can see it really just adds a lot of softness around the face
17:49 Now I'm just gonna go through cross-check this panel
17:53 So
17:55 This since I held everything higher I'm gonna hold the hair vertically and then I'm just gonna lift it up
18:06 And bring it up towards the top. So there should be really much hair to cut towards the bottom
18:12 I
18:14 Last section or bring this above the parietal ridge
18:37 Now see it adds have a different dimension to it so two more things of the do
18:44 The timekeeping is always hard whether you're a teacher or behind the chair and never stops
18:59 So I'm gonna use a little bit more tension at the bottom and now I'm just gonna work
19:05 And I know I'm gonna work more of a square line on here and I know by putting the tension
19:11 It's gonna have the hair jump a little bit. I'm kind of counting on that
19:14 Because really at the end of day once I'm done with the look is gonna be a bit softer
19:23 Sometimes when you cut hair you have to really think about the end result and not so much the immediate
19:31 So
19:33 Now the last part of it is we're to join those top panels into the front and then we're going to have her blow-dry
20:00 So just gonna bring the hair from the back of the head
20:02 And I'm just gonna connect this in
20:26 I'm only doing this right around the parietal ridge everything else is gonna fall down
20:31 So still using a lot of the attention
20:35 To the bottom so
20:39 We bring these sections up
20:43 You can see how it works the shape of the head working back and then you have this hair
20:49 That is gonna fall right over it, which is gonna create more of a double fringe
20:55 So the two times I've cut her hair when she walked in here her hair wasn't like flat ironed to death to be honest with
21:00 You it's more just kind of air-dried. It's very textured. So I think that's gonna kind of go along with how she really wears her hair
21:06 All right, so that would be model number one. Thank you, Bietta.
21:09 Marshall's gonna come back and talk about the color as well
21:12 As soon as she's dried. So Josie, I'll go ahead and give her over to you
21:16 Just get the blue hair so it doesn't mix with the blonde hair. That would be catastrophic
21:23 Okay
21:25 All right, come on over here
21:33 So let's remind everybody because we forget to do this sometimes because people join us.
21:39 So Travis Smith, lead instructor at Sassoon Chicago. We're Sassoon Academy
21:44 Tell people a little bit about as you're doing this talk a little bit about Sassoon too because I know people love to hear it.
21:51 So I'll do a quick little recap. We'll cut a little bit about that. So this haircut
21:56 I wanted to do something not round. I want to do something a much heavier kind of classic graduation more of a square shape. So
22:02 We just came out with a new collection and I was definitely really inspired by the look. So if you come closer here
22:10 The haircut started off the really heavy horizontal graduation and through the bottom
22:17 So I took panels and just really worked it and bringing the hair backwards which kind of creates a little bit more heaviness behind the ear
22:23 And then we kind of just carved out the bottom and then after that panel I
22:28 Brought this hair and I brought it straight down. This is basically right after Mark Hayes's haircutting cut and
22:34 I brought all the elevation really low
22:37 It's still graduating it in but this hair is actually cut about
22:41 Maybe like a finger length longer than the rest of it. So there is a level of disconnection
22:47 So all these sections were really brought down
22:49 And brought down
22:54 And then brought down and then I followed through all the way to the front. So everything was brought down quite square
23:00 And then the last few panels towards the top
23:03 I
23:04 Elevated the hair just slightly in through here
23:07 Which is just going to kind of tuck the hair and give it a little bit more of a graduated edge
23:12 So the undercut which obviously something that's been very popular lately
23:16 It's not just shaved off to the bottom like or even like really kind of cropped off like a box bob
23:21 The undercut creates more of a texture and actually gives the hair a little bit more volume
23:26 So what I'm gonna be doing right now is I'm gonna be softening the haircut a little bit
23:28 And I'm just gonna work a quick little fringe in
23:31 I'm just gonna dust off the blue off the scissors real quick
23:41 So I
23:43 Work for Susuna Coyote obviously and I've been with Susuna now for almost six years. I've been a hairdresser for 12
23:49 I joined Susuna really after I saw a hair show live and that was kind of it for me
23:55 Which is funny because where I worked before which is for Robert Cromains
23:58 I saw a hair show and that's what drove me to that. So apparently that's the key to get my attention
24:02 So I went through an apprenticeship program in Los Angeles for about 18 months after being a hairdresser for six years
24:11 And kind of climbed my way up out of that and then went to the Academy because I always really wanted to be a teacher
24:15 And I started teaching cosmetology in Los Angeles with a lot of incredible people. I'm very lucky
24:21 I've worked with tons of people throughout my career and
24:24 I fell in love with teaching as soon as I started teaching in advanced classes because the start of the class we ask you
24:31 Why you here? What do you feel like your biggest issues are?
24:35 What are your challenges when you cut hair and every single week I teach people
24:39 I hear the same things that I was thinking in my head
24:42 and then I've been in Chicago for about two years now a little bit over two years and
24:47 I came to Chicago
24:49 Basically on a whim the fact that they kept sending people here because there wasn't a teacher at the time
24:53 And I really fell in love with the city
24:55 So what I'm doing right through here is I'm holding the hair really low
25:03 And I'm just point cutting into all the length and a point cutting just very lightly and straight into the hair shop
25:09 And so the idea of the haircut is I doubt she's really gonna wear the hair like this
25:13 I want to be able to give the hair kind of a three-dimensional feel to it
25:16 Yeah, I packed up my bags and I moved here and I had this Academy
25:23 We have two other teachers that we're really trying to be trained at the moment for the next year or two
25:27 That's been amazing. The city is great. Obviously I met you Gordon so can't be all that bad. Yeah
25:33 I
25:35 Think it's the mouth with point cutting it's not you don't have to go all rapid-fire with it. Sometimes the hair doesn't really need that
25:45 That's a huge comfort thing
25:47 I've noticed when people come take classes to is they want to start point cutting immediately and I'm like you already know how to do
25:52 That so when you come here, it's really about stepping out of a comfort zone
25:56 And it's a weird thing too because you know when somebody goes through your haircut, so he checks your haircut
26:02 It's an odd feeling. It's something maybe a lot of people haven't felt for quite some time
26:05 I just assumes, you know, we're very adamant about our training
26:09 We all kind of consider ourselves students the day we die. So I still train I get my haircuts combed through by creative directors
26:17 I know the feeling
26:19 But that's honestly what makes you better
26:21 And really what we focus on is answering questions. You've always wanted to know about haircuts
26:26 You get really getting into the core fundamentals of cutting hair
26:30 So I teach a couple different classes here
26:32 the main one I teach a lot is ABC level 1 level 2
26:36 And what we do is it's the three or five days we do theory, hands-on, lecturing
26:43 Everyone's all watch DVD. We go through some of the book
26:46 But it kind of applies for all different learners because to be honest like I'm one of those hairdressers
26:52 Like I want to watch a DVD. I want to try it out on somebody
26:55 Hopefully I get it right. I try it multiple times. I have to do a head sheet
27:00 So I think everybody I mean as hairdressers we're all kind of a bit nutty
27:03 So I think you know, there's a way for everybody to learn when you come here
27:06 So as I'm going through this you can see
27:14 See where the hair was held
27:15 What helps me with a square shape when I was cutting this is keeping the fingertips away from the head
27:20 The moment that the fingertips are held against the skin, that's where things can have a tendency to start rounding up
27:26 I
27:28 Really challenge myself by doing a square shape on a video right now
27:33 Square is the hardest technique to cut
27:35 Because you can't have kind of square. Square is either square, if it's not square, it's not square
27:40 I'm going to do a little bit right here
27:42 So you can kind of see at the end of it that it really has more of a three-dimensional look
28:05 Really nice beautiful balance of the cheekbones
28:09 So now I'm going to work a fringe
28:11 As I was combing through her hair I wanted to give her a little bit of a deeper fringe
28:13 So I'm going to do more of a traditional way of cutting a fringe. I'm not going to be doing a double fringe or anything like that
28:15 So when I work a fringe I want to lean the head back
28:26 She has a bit of a growth pattern in through the front
28:30 So all I'm going to do is rest the hair into the wide teeth of the comb
28:34 And then as I cut I work the scissors backwards. So as I actually close the blades
28:40 I push the scissors back and that helps me get a really nice clean cut when I cut dry
28:44 So these are actually pretty new scissors I got them a couple weeks ago. These are our new rose gold wings
28:54 I've been using wings now for about probably four years
29:00 And one of my favorites. So my body position is going to be standing in front when I work a line
29:05 I think the key is is really just kind of combing the hair back and forth
29:13 I'm using the wide teeth of the comb not really combing the hair down, but just holding it in place
29:36 And then I'm going to start cutting the rest of the hair in the front. So I'm going to start with the sides.
29:38 So I'm going to start with the sides. So I'm going to start with the sides. So I'm going to start with the sides.
29:40 So I'm going to start with the sides. So I'm going to start with the sides. So I'm going to start with the sides.
29:42 So I'm going to start with the sides. So I'm going to start with the sides. So I'm going to start with the sides.
29:44 So I'm going to start with the sides. So I'm going to start with the sides. So I'm going to start with the sides.
29:46 So I'm going to start with the sides. So I'm going to start with the sides. So I'm going to start with the sides.
29:48 (bass music)
29:50 So I wish I had more to talk about in a second,
30:14 but with Fridge, I really wanted to zone in,
30:17 and I'm gonna do a little bit of a Q&A.
30:20 So, I'm gonna start with a question.
30:23 I'm gonna start with a question.
30:25 I'm gonna start with a question.
30:28 I'm gonna start with a question.
30:31 I'm gonna start with a question.
30:33 I'm gonna start with a question.
30:36 I'm gonna start with a question.
30:39 I'm gonna start with a question.
30:42 I'm gonna start with a question.
30:44 I'm gonna start with a question.
30:48 I'm gonna start with a question.
30:51 I'm gonna start with a question.
30:53 I'm gonna start with a question.
30:56 I'm gonna start with a question.
30:59 I'm gonna start with a question.
31:02 I'm gonna start with a question.
31:04 I'm gonna start with a question.
31:07 I'm gonna start with a question.
31:10 I'm gonna start with a question.
31:13 I'm gonna start with a question.
31:16 Mostly on the creative end, but,
31:18 yeah, she's a massive mentor to all of us.
31:21 So, as far as working balance and symmetry,
31:30 and it's a little bit hard right now,
31:31 'cause obviously I'm cutting in front of a camera,
31:33 or a phone, which is a camera,
31:35 but you have to take a step back
31:37 from your work a lot when you cut hair.
31:39 You have a mirror in front of you,
31:44 but a lot of times you get so close
31:46 'cause you're so worried about what's going on in your hands
31:48 that you actually have to see the balance up front.
31:52 - I do have to repeat, someone said Vidal would be proud,
32:03 and we've got somebody else who's gonna do this cut
32:06 on their client tonight, so you've inspired someone.
32:08 - That's awesome.
32:09 Cheap plug, but if you really wanna see
32:12 the original version of this,
32:15 pick up the new Academy collection,
32:17 and there's two collections actually within it.
32:19 There's a salon collection
32:21 and an Academy collection as well together.
32:24 And Mark does this haircut, really, really,
32:29 obviously it's Mark, so it's incredible,
32:31 but I was very inspired by it.
32:34 - So we do have a question, which is from Mario Valaterra,
32:39 and he's asking-- - What's up, Mario?
32:41 - Oh, you know Mario. - Oh, we all know Mario.
32:43 Mario's a Sassoon fanatic.
32:46 - So he would like to know why are you cutting her fringe
32:49 in one section?
32:50 - Two reasons.
32:53 One, because the cowlick in the front,
32:56 I didn't wanna kind of obey just by that,
32:58 I wanted to bring the rest of the hair in,
33:00 and two, the essence of time.
33:02 (laughing)
33:04 (beeping)
33:06 Lean your head back, take a step back.
33:14 Cool.
33:21 I have to admit this, 'cause it's kind of funny,
33:26 because I cut blue hair,
33:28 I think there was some blue on my scissors,
33:29 so you have a Marilyn Manson line on your forehead.
33:32 It's cool.
33:33 - It is. - It was totally
33:34 on purpose.
33:35 (laughing)
33:37 When you cut hair in front of people all the time as a job,
33:43 you kind of just learn you have to really roll with it.
33:47 Every week.
33:48 So as we're finishing up, Marshall, are you here?
33:57 - Yeah.
33:57 - Why don't you come over and tell us
33:58 about what you do with the color?
34:00 - Okay.
34:01 Hello everybody, I'm Marshall,
34:07 I work at Sassoon here in Chicago for the Academy Amazon.
34:11 With Taylor's hair today,
34:13 we did a classic herringbone highlight technique.
34:17 Lucky enough, I was able to have Taylor
34:19 come in with virgin hair,
34:20 which does not happen very often.
34:22 But because of that, we were able to highlight
34:25 using a combination of tint and bleach.
34:28 So going in at an angle, we started with our 1069,
34:33 which is a wella color with 40 volume,
34:36 and then sandwiched between the bleach was 869 alumina,
34:41 which is also wella with 30 volume.
34:43 And when highlighting somebody with a fringe,
34:47 you want to be mindful that this hair
34:50 is all going to be directed forward,
34:51 so you want to make sure that these pieces right here,
34:55 you're ending with your lightest in your formula.
34:58 In this instance, it was a powder lightener,
34:59 which is blondor with 20 volume.
35:03 And I chose cooler tones because she does have
35:07 a pretty neutral base color,
35:09 and we want it to be able to grow out looking very natural,
35:12 so I did fine weaves within every packet.
35:16 And I was very happy.
35:17 - Yeah, it looks beautiful.
35:18 Awesome.
35:19 Hold on, you can have it stand up real quick.
35:24 And then my Instagram is @traviswsmith,
35:28 so I post my work every week.
35:30 I'll be taking some pictures of these guys later.
35:32 So if you want to see kind of a closer look
35:34 at the finished result, add me and visit me.
35:37 Cool.
35:39 Take a look at the back too.
35:41 Very nice.
35:45 - Awesome.
35:46 - And I will have our model come off, Gieta.
35:49 I'll finish you up real quick.
35:51 We okay on time?
35:52 - We are.
35:53 - We're fine.
35:54 - Do you want me to go over color real quick?
35:56 - Yeah, why not?
35:57 - So with Gieta's hair here,
35:59 we treated her hair like a virgin bleach and tone.
36:02 So she came in with some previous color on her ends.
36:06 So I went in first and pre-lightened the mids.
36:09 Once those were about to a pale yellow,
36:10 I went in and lightened her roots.
36:12 So we got her to a nice level 10 even throughout.
36:16 And then her toner is Wella's Special Mix,
36:20 Zero Stroke 2/8 with Pastel Developer.
36:23 And we did that roots to ends.
36:25 We let that sit for 25 minutes
36:27 and we got this really beautiful aquamarine.
36:30 And I'm really happy with the outcome.
36:33 It's very nice.
36:34 And we didn't have to do any sort of color enhancer,
36:36 rinse over.
36:37 This is just Wella's permanent hair color.
36:39 - It's awesome.
36:41 - Thank you.
36:42 Yeah, and it should last very well.
36:44 And the fun thing about doing these gem tones
36:46 is that they do end up washing to a more pastel,
36:50 which is also very much on trend right now.
36:53 - Beautiful.
36:55 - Thank you.
36:56 - Awesome.
36:57 - Well done.
36:58 - Thank you, Bianca.
36:58 - Thank you.
36:59 - All right, so I have my cut beacon.
37:01 I'm gonna wrap this down
37:03 just with a little bit of refinement.
37:05 So the dry part of our relationship
37:13 is really where we're looking at the shape we created
37:16 and we're just enhancing it.
37:18 So the haircutting, if you think about it,
37:20 and I'm gonna steal this from you, DJ,
37:22 sorry if you're watching.
37:24 But haircutting, the wet part of a haircut
37:26 is really if you're building a house.
37:29 And we blow dry it, which is definitely
37:31 not always the funnest thing to do.
37:33 And then the dry part of a relationship
37:34 is really where you kind of get to put all the decor
37:37 and all the detail into it.
37:38 But you have to have that foundation first,
37:41 really before you do all that.
37:43 So as my old director used to say,
37:45 it's technique, blow dry, refine.
37:48 It's really the key to a sassoon haircut.
37:50 So with graduation, what you really wanna look at
37:56 is a silhouette.
37:58 And that's why some people either really love
37:59 or you hate graduation, 'cause if you see a hole in it
38:02 or a bump in the road, usually something happened
38:05 within your technique.
38:06 But if you nail it, the silhouette should be
38:09 pretty sleek to the head.
38:10 (gentle music)
38:13 So just kind of looking for any sort of corner
38:22 that might have a cut within it.
38:40 Okay, so I'm just gonna go through the line
38:42 a little bit more.
38:43 So once you get with dry cutting,
39:05 as you cut, you miss a back.
39:08 If you're not used to cutting on skin,
39:10 maybe practice on a loved one, if they have hairy arms.
39:15 But the best way to do it is just to do it really.
39:19 So you kinda see everything kinda works upward.
39:26 And then we'll do the same thing over here.
39:31 (gentle music)
39:33 Now the hair is dry, we're just gonna refine this again.
39:57 Now the little curve that's kinda like
39:59 almost like a signature of Sassoon.
40:01 It actually, what it does is it really has
40:04 kind of almost like a center point.
40:06 And what that does is most of the time
40:08 it really narrows down the neck.
40:09 So it looks really, really nice on most necks,
40:12 unless it's like absurdly skinny and tall.
40:28 Okay.
40:29 And then we're just gonna,
40:37 as soon as I just clean up this neck line,
40:38 we're gonna go to the top.
40:39 And then, can somebody grab a little bit of color touch
40:44 in like a few minutes?
40:46 Who would've thought with blue?
40:50 (chuckles)
40:52 All right, so let's work into the top.
41:18 So this is kinda carving this out to the scissors.
41:21 - So Travis, while you're doing that,
41:28 tell us a little bit about the courses
41:30 that people can take at Sassoon.
41:32 - Yeah, we offer a variety of courses.
41:34 Here in Chicago, we do ABC level one and two,
41:38 and then we do salon creative, which I teach as well.
41:41 And salon creative is a great class to take
41:44 because we're not just doing something
41:46 that's gonna be really bonkers,
41:47 that might be really fun creatively,
41:50 but you may not do that much in the salon.
41:51 So salon creative is already maybe
41:54 after you've taken an ABC course,
41:56 and you just need something different,
41:57 like you're just in a complete rut.
41:59 We also do ABC color as well.
42:05 Marshall teaches quite a bit of that.
42:07 And then in Santa Monica, which is really our hub,
42:13 we do a variety of different classes.
42:15 We do everything from foiling class, styling.
42:19 We do a brand new educator course, which is incredible.
42:22 Everybody wants to teach nowadays,
42:24 so if you want to have a little bit
42:25 of that Sassoon method behind it,
42:27 it's a great class to take.
42:42 So just refining the shape in through here,
42:44 using the tips of the scissors.
42:47 And really just bringing the hair out
43:03 so it's a natural place right there,
43:04 just carving right around the head.
43:07 (scissors snipping)
43:10 So you really see more of the cheekbones.
43:35 Just giving a little bit of tension
43:37 to help kind of graduate the edges of the neck.
43:40 About two more minutes, Gordon, is that okay?
43:51 - You're good.
43:52 - Awesome.
43:53 So at the top, there's a couple different ways
44:02 you can do this.
44:04 Prepare your client, so bring your head back,
44:06 close your eyes and look.
44:07 So we're gonna bring all this hair together,
44:11 and then I'm just gonna point cut straight into it.
44:15 So it's gonna combine the two different fringes together.
44:18 (scissors snipping)
44:21 Once again, doing a haircut like this,
44:38 I'm not really expecting the hair to be slicked down
44:41 as much as I want it to kind of worn,
44:44 a little bit more kind of tousled and free,
44:47 which I think is way more current
44:49 if you really look at how short hair has been worn.
44:52 And then I'm just gonna go through the rest of it.
44:57 Obviously we'll keep our disconnection out of the way.
45:01 I'm just gonna add a little bit of texture to the rest.
45:03 So when I point cut, if I want this kind of soft in it,
45:09 I'm gonna point cut straight into the hair shaft.
45:11 If I'm looking forward to kind of really texturize it,
45:14 I would wanna work a little bit more on an angle.
45:17 (scissors snipping)
45:20 - So a lot of people are intimidated by Sassoon.
45:30 - Yes.
45:31 - So somebody who's watching,
45:32 what would you say to that person?
45:35 - Well, first of all, I'd say I've been there.
45:37 (laughing)
45:38 I still have my moments.
45:39 Every once in a while, I'll come back to LA
45:40 when we do a masterclass and I'm still,
45:43 once in a while I'm just kind of in awe of it still.
45:46 Here, especially I can say with confidence within myself
45:49 that I really try to create a fun environment.
45:52 And when you do take a class with us,
45:54 it's really your time.
45:57 We try to have a really nice, fun environment.
45:59 You get to take two to three hours of haircut
46:01 and you're not getting a great sheet, you're really not.
46:03 We're here just to make you,
46:04 whatever you have already in your arsenal,
46:06 we wanna add on to it.
46:08 We wanna make it even better.
46:09 So I guess that kind of answered the question.
46:13 I would just say, if you really wanna take it
46:16 and you're scared maybe just 'cause
46:18 it's more of a serious tone, don't.
46:20 Everybody at work with us is super, super nice.
46:23 And I'm not just saying that either.
46:25 But a lot of great people out there
46:28 at all of our academies.
46:29 (soft music)
46:32 Then we'll just work for the back.
46:57 (soft music)
46:59 So if I'm gonna add a little bit of texture to the front,
47:03 I wanna kind of keep the feel relatively pretty consistent.
47:07 And that's to be honest with you,
47:08 why I selfishly wanted to do two models today
47:11 was I wanted to have something a bit heavier
47:13 and very more of a classic Sassoon style.
47:17 And then I wanted to do something a little bit more
47:18 avant-garde, a little bit freer.
47:21 (soft music)
47:23 - And for those who maybe, I mean,
47:37 I think a lot of folks wonder sometimes
47:39 when they see Sassoon in this more pure form,
47:42 like how they're gonna translate that into the salon.
47:45 So can you talk about that for a second?
47:46 - Yeah, absolutely.
47:47 I mean, I think the bottom line with that is that
47:49 when you take a Sassoon course,
47:50 what we don't want is we're not gonna be like,
47:52 all right, well, here's your long layer cut.
47:54 Here's your bob and here's your pixie.
47:55 And thank you very much, we'll take your money.
47:57 What we really wanna do is to give you the tools
48:00 to be able to create whatever you want.
48:03 And that I think is the main essence
48:05 if you take a Sassoon class is the idea of suitability.
48:08 So you look at somebody,
48:09 you look at their bone structure, their style,
48:11 their lifestyle, what they do, texture, density,
48:15 their growth patterns, their hairlines.
48:17 And that's what really helps you come up with a look.
48:20 And so definitely when you come with us,
48:23 you take a course with us,
48:24 we work on a wide variety of models,
48:26 all age groups, different ethnicities,
48:30 men, women, everything.
48:32 So you kind of get a taste of everything.
48:34 - And you work always on live models
48:36 at the Academy, correct?
48:37 - Yes.
48:38 - Cool.
48:44 I hope you guys like it.
48:45 I think we're about ready to wrap up.
48:48 (hair dryer blowing)
48:51 All right, I'll have you stand up
49:09 and we'll take off the robe.
49:10 I know you have a shirt on, so that's always good.
49:16 (laughing)
49:18 I'm just gonna give it a little bit of hairspray too,
49:25 just to kind of bring the texture out.
49:26 So Aaron Johnson out there, I know you're in Tokyo,
49:34 and I wanted to do a layered bob
49:37 just to give you a little bit of shake,
49:38 since that's all you do.
49:40 Little challenge to you, buddy.
49:42 I miss you, I hope you're having a good time
49:43 out there in hair green.
49:45 (soft music)
49:48 Cool, and Taylor, I'll have you come up too.
49:58 Yeah, those are my finished looks today.
50:05 Hope you guys enjoyed it.
50:07 Travis W. Smith on Instagram,
50:10 the Marshall, what's your Instagram?
50:11 - MLVillanteJr.
50:14 You could just find me tagging Travis's photo.
50:16 - Damn, man.
50:17 So thank you guys so much for having us.
50:19 If you have any questions about Academy courses,
50:21 just give us a call over at Santa Monica.
50:23 We'd love to hear from you.
50:24 So, Gordon, thank you so much.
50:26 - Hey, thank you both, and thank you guys for watching.
50:29 Again, this is Gordon Miller,
50:30 I'm a publisher of American Salon.
50:31 We're here at Sassoon Academy Chicago.
50:34 We just love the Sassoon folks,
50:35 we love the education you guys bring to the industry.
50:37 This is pretty much the gold standard in education,
50:39 so I really encourage everybody to check this out.
50:42 Go to Sassoon.com.
50:44 - Sassoon.com, or Sassoon-Academy.com.
50:47 - And you'll get access to the schedules,
50:49 and how to contact folks,
50:50 and again, we're thrilled to be here.
50:53 We have a lot more Facebook Lives coming up.
50:54 We've got Nina Kovner in Passion Square this Wednesday.
50:57 We've got Sally Rogerson, a former Sassoon Education Director
51:02 and one of our favorites, she'll be here on Thursday.
51:04 We also have Color Proof coming up on December 14th,
51:06 so lots more live education work from Salon.
51:10 Everybody have great holidays.
51:11 Thank you for being with us.
51:12 Thank you guys.
51:13 Watch.