Short Bob haircut tutorial - How to Cut a Curly Bob
Transcript
00:00 - We should have the hotspot thing on.
00:03 - We're live, perfect.
00:04 Okay, good.
00:05 So good evening everybody.
00:07 Sorry for the confusion, I apologize.
00:09 It's always, yeah, it's always the classic Wi-Fi situation.
00:12 So let me tell you what I'm doing
00:14 and how I'm working this shape, okay?
00:16 First of all, thank you for tuning back in.
00:18 I apologize for the break up in reception.
00:20 So I've taken a section that goes from the top
00:23 where the head rounds off to the top of the ear
00:25 and then from that same point
00:27 to the corner of the recession.
00:29 Please tell me if you can hear me
00:30 by giving a little thumbs up to Jamie
00:32 to make sure we are live and we are connected, okay?
00:35 I've started by taking a slightly curved sectioning,
00:39 natural for cutting my external shape.
00:42 Now, when I'm cutting my external shape,
00:44 the angle of my fingers is basically facing down.
00:48 I'm not rotating my fingers
00:49 'cause otherwise I'll end up graduating my line.
00:51 That's my initial shape.
00:53 And when I, the reason why I've chosen this length
00:56 is 'cause I can see by this bend here,
00:58 look at the bend in the hair.
01:00 I can see where that's gonna dry and set, you see?
01:03 So that's a really good indicator for me to understand
01:06 what length I should choose
01:07 'cause obviously curls spring.
01:09 So I'm gonna do something quite fun tonight,
01:11 something I've never done before actually.
01:12 So I'm a little bit nervous about doing it
01:14 but I think it'll be quite fun
01:15 if I manage to pull it off what I'm thinking in my mind.
01:18 I'm gonna use obviously the Day-Dye
01:21 to keep the hair really damp.
01:23 Remember, the more wet there is,
01:25 the more control I have over this.
01:27 So I'm gonna wet the hair down,
01:28 keep wetting the hair down, okay?
01:31 And then what I'm gonna do
01:33 with this zone that I've previously cut,
01:35 I'm gonna groom it forward
01:36 so it does not connect into this zone, okay?
01:40 I'm gonna comb it forward
01:41 and then I'm gonna clip it out of the way, okay?
01:44 Now, I'm very lucky to be in Edmonton in Canada
01:49 and I'm in a beautiful salon here.
01:50 This is Cristina Dominelli's salon
01:52 and I'm here with lots of friends.
01:54 So do a little scan of the room if you'd like.
01:58 Say hello to everyone.
01:59 Okay.
02:00 So I'm in a beautiful space
02:03 and I've got Gwyn here
02:04 and I'm gonna be doing a really cool haircut on Gwyn.
02:07 So if you come really close, let me show you.
02:09 The first section is gonna basically
02:11 mirror the hairline, okay?
02:13 That's the first section.
02:14 And with that first section, I'm gonna comb it down.
02:18 So if you can, Jamie, if you can't see, I'll move.
02:21 Let me spin it around more.
02:22 Is that better?
02:23 So I'm looking at the bend in the hair.
02:25 This is how we understand the movement of the texture.
02:28 Can you see it likes to bend at that point?
02:30 So what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna try and cut the bend out.
02:34 So I'm gonna natural, full, no tension
02:36 and then cut the shape.
02:38 And can you see, I've caught the bend
02:40 where it rolls inwards, okay?
02:41 I get rid of this hair.
02:42 This hair is superfluous.
02:44 It's not necessary.
02:45 So my number system is gonna be one, two to one,
02:49 three to one, maybe even four to one.
02:52 And then I'm gonna start to work internally, okay?
02:55 So combing the hair down, just securing the hair
03:00 so I'm not using any excess tension, okay?
03:03 And I'm letting the hair bend and move.
03:05 And I'm cutting a curved line.
03:09 Now don't worry about how neat that line becomes
03:11 'cause after I'm gonna apply some tension and refine it.
03:15 What I wanna do at the moment
03:16 is just build some kind of weight line
03:18 on that external shape, okay?
03:21 So again, comb the hair down.
03:23 I'm using the tight end of the comb.
03:25 I'm placing the hair behind the ear
03:27 so the ear doesn't disturb the shape, okay?
03:30 I'm gonna secure the hair with my comb, cut the shape.
03:35 And you can see, as I add sections into it,
03:39 what happens is the weight tends to build
03:42 and the control tends to kick into shape.
03:45 So again, I'm working down into the back.
03:48 So now I've got some kind of weight building up
03:50 so it's starting to control itself.
03:52 I'm gonna go one more section
03:54 which will basically be here, okay?
03:57 I've got a very good friend of mine.
03:59 This is a beautiful curl that I'm gonna be working with
04:04 and I've got a cool friend
04:08 who's gonna help me hold some sections.
04:10 You mind?
04:11 Okay, guys, say hello.
04:13 This is Angela, Angelica.
04:16 She's a great friend of mine we met tonight.
04:19 She's gonna be helping us.
04:20 She's been hairdressing for one year
04:22 and we've been talking a little bit
04:23 about different stuff before we went live.
04:26 We've been talking a lot about bone structure,
04:28 talking about fixed and variable analysis.
04:31 And for those of you who are regulars on the ALR Unplugged,
04:34 you will know what I'm talking about.
04:36 For those of you who are new to the Unplugged,
04:38 let me just give you an update on what that actually is.
04:41 Before I do that, the four sections that I've cut,
04:44 I'm gonna comb the hair down like this,
04:47 rest the back of the comb
04:48 and then the back of the scissor like this, okay?
04:52 Then once I'm there,
04:55 I'm gonna just get rid of any excess graduation.
04:58 I'm using a club cutting technique,
05:00 which is basically a nice clean line, okay?
05:03 For those of you who are watching,
05:05 please feel free to ask me as many questions as you want.
05:09 I wanna finish this and be mentally drained.
05:12 So please feel free to ask me as many questions as you want.
05:15 And also, if you're liking what you're seeing,
05:18 on the bottom left-hand side of the screen
05:20 is the share button.
05:21 Please feel free to share the shake.
05:24 Now, this is section four.
05:26 What I'm gonna do now is I started diagonally
05:29 to compensate for the hairline.
05:31 I'm now, once I get to section four,
05:33 I'm gonna pivot my sections 'til I'm almost horizontal
05:37 and I'm gonna work with the same number system
05:39 and the same method.
05:40 I'll explain to you why once I get to my horizontal.
05:43 If you may go for me, I'm gonna come, thank you.
05:45 Good, okay, comb my hair down.
05:47 So Jamie, if you have any questions, let me know, yeah?
05:51 - Not yet, just a bunch of happy birthdays tomorrow.
05:54 - Thank you, that's very sweet, yeah.
05:57 I'm gonna be nearly 40 tomorrow, I'm gonna be 39 tomorrow.
06:00 So I'm a bit depressed right now, I'm not gonna lie.
06:03 Okay, again, I'm gonna be working
06:08 basically two multiple shapes.
06:11 So I'm gonna be working one shape, which will be a line,
06:15 and then I'm gonna work inside with some graduation.
06:18 So basically what I'm gonna have,
06:20 I'm gonna have kind of graduation on top of graduation,
06:23 which I've never really kind of explored fully,
06:26 but it's something that I think would be quite fun
06:29 and something quite new for you guys to see.
06:31 So I've got maybe one or two more sections horizontally.
06:36 So now you can see I'm almost horizontal, aren't I?
06:40 Okay, groom the excess hair, remember, super clean.
06:42 Don't be lazy, remember, lazy hair cutters
06:45 end up creating lazy work, okay?
06:49 Thank you, Angelica.
06:50 Keep it nice and neat.
06:52 Again, comb the hair down, look at the root,
06:56 make sure the hair is sitting well from the root,
06:59 'cause that's the key, it's a natural form, okay?
07:02 Secure the hair, and again, back of the comb.
07:06 Now by using the back of the comb,
07:08 what you do is you basically have like a ruler, yeah?
07:11 Jamie, if you want, you wanna get closer, you feel free,
07:16 you just let me know, baby.
07:18 And guys, if you have any questions about what I'm doing,
07:20 please feel free to ask.
07:22 So place a comb, place a scissor,
07:24 use the comb like a ruler,
07:26 and that way you have a consistent amount of tension
07:29 on that line.
07:29 And if you notice, I'm working to just off-center,
07:33 and then I'm gonna stop, okay?
07:36 So the hair you can see is quite long, okay?
07:41 But it's quite dehydrated because of over-processing.
07:44 So what I'm doing is I'm basically trying to get rid
07:46 of a lot of the bleached hair, which has lost its curl, okay?
07:50 One of the big things you need to think about
07:52 when you're cutting hair is your, excuse me,
07:55 your analysis at the beginning is the key
07:58 to really understanding the shape, okay?
08:00 Now what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna ignore this shape here.
08:04 So this is how we do that, let me show you.
08:07 - So Mario asks, "Your comb is a guide?"
08:11 - So I'm using my comb like a ruler,
08:14 and I'm basically placing my comb to secure the hair,
08:19 which will then allow me to work methodically
08:22 with a consistent amount of tension.
08:24 So when you're cutting a line, let me show you.
08:27 There's lots of different ways of cutting a line, okay?
08:30 Some people cut a line by basically combing the hair down,
08:33 okay, and then holding it in their comb and cutting it.
08:36 That's one way.
08:37 If you use a tighten, you have a certain amount of tension.
08:39 If you use a widen, you have a certain amount of tension,
08:41 okay, but what you don't have is intense tension.
08:45 Whereas if you comb the hair down,
08:47 and some people, what they do is they comb the hair down
08:50 and they use the back of their hand
08:51 or the back of their finger,
08:52 and they hold the hair like that.
08:54 The negative to that is that you have excess tension,
08:57 which could then end up becoming very, very graduated.
09:00 If, for example, you're working on fine hair
09:02 or straight hair, you will really see that.
09:04 How I like to do it is I like to use the back of the comb,
09:08 so I've got the consistent tension every time.
09:10 When I get to the end, I just gently rotate it
09:12 so that the hair sticks to the skin.
09:15 Then I secure it with my scissor,
09:17 and then I use the back of the comb.
09:18 So I'm not using any, I'm not adding any tension in.
09:22 The tension is purely what the comb has,
09:23 so I know it's consistent, okay?
09:26 So now, now that I've cut that, watch what I'm gonna do.
09:29 I'm hoping it's gonna work,
09:32 just to scare the hell out of you.
09:33 So I'm gonna basically clip this hair out of the way, okay?
09:38 And the reason why I'm gonna clip this hair out of the way
09:40 is 'cause I wanna try not to disturb that, okay?
09:44 And I'm gonna try and work on top,
09:46 and we're gonna see at the end
09:47 the kind of dimensions of the shape.
09:49 Okay, so I'm gonna lower the chair,
09:53 so that way what happens is that
09:55 as I'm working higher up the head,
09:57 my shoulders aren't engaged,
09:58 'cause I'm not working too hard,
09:59 but I've got more control.
10:01 Okay, now I'm gonna separate the hair.
10:07 I'll show you now, give me one second.
10:09 Let me separate the zone.
10:11 Angelica, I'm gonna need your fingers back, okay?
10:15 - Yep.
10:16 - So if you come on this side for me.
10:18 There you go. - There you go.
10:19 - The back lock, perfect.
10:20 Okay, so watch carefully.
10:22 Again, sorry for the interruption, guys.
10:24 So if you watch this zone,
10:29 let me show you what I'm doing, okay?
10:31 Let me show you the zone first so you really understand, okay?
10:36 The reception tonight, guys,
10:37 is gonna be more of a challenge,
10:38 'cause I think there's like hurricanes outside of 130,
10:41 whatever it is, miles per hour, or whatever it is.
10:44 So this is gonna be my zone,
10:46 which is basically like a triangular zone, okay?
10:53 Which goes up, off-center in the back, okay?
10:56 Then what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna start my haircut
10:58 on the inside.
10:59 So Angelica, can I borrow you again, darling?
11:03 Okay, I'm gonna take a curved section,
11:06 which basically mirrors the zone.
11:10 In fact, just for now, to make it easier for myself,
11:13 let's get rid of some of that hair.
11:17 (laughing)
11:19 Now the comb should glide through much easier.
11:21 There you go.
11:22 Hold that for me, thank you.
11:24 Okay, so I know that line is gonna expand,
11:27 it's gonna become quite triangular when it's dry.
11:30 So what I'm gonna do now is I'm gonna take a section
11:33 that's gonna be a little bit more triangular,
11:35 and I'm gonna cut it.
11:36 So what I'm gonna do now is I'm gonna come inside the shape,
11:40 and I'm gonna do a completely different cutting line, okay?
11:43 And I want the weight to fall forward,
11:47 so I'm gonna come into the shape,
11:50 and I'm gonna cut working on the base.
11:55 - Johan did say it's breaking up quite a lot right now.
11:58 - Sorry, sorry, big boy.
12:01 So what I'm doing now is I'm working around cutting line,
12:06 and I'm choosing half that length, okay?
12:09 So then I'm gonna continue working up the head
12:13 in the same manner in regards to our sectioning pattern,
12:16 but I'm gonna be pulling everything to section one, okay?
12:20 So this is section one, gonna comb the hair down.
12:25 That way I know one is my guide, two is going to one.
12:30 So I'm pulling one straight out from the base.
12:33 And my body, with every section,
12:39 I'm moving around with every section, okay?
12:42 That way I know my horizontal shape is round.
12:46 My vertical shape in this scenario will be triangular
12:50 because I'm pulling everything to number one, okay?
12:53 And I'm stopping halfway, okay?
12:57 So I'm only working a round horizontal shape,
13:00 and because I'm pulling everything to one,
13:02 my vertical shape will be triangular, okay?
13:05 Again, coming inside the shape.
13:10 And every section, what I'm doing is I'm making sure
13:14 that I pull section one, which is the very first section,
13:18 straight out from the base, that's the key.
13:20 So what I do, let me show you how I control that.
13:23 I put my finger underneath, come close, Jamie.
13:25 My finger underneath by the section, can you see?
13:27 Inside there.
13:29 Then I keep my finger there,
13:31 and then I comb all the hair onto my finger.
13:33 And that way I know I'm combing everything to one,
13:37 and one is coming straight out from the base.
13:40 Very, very, very important, yeah?
13:42 So I keep my finger by the section,
13:44 and then comb everything out from the base.
13:46 Hopefully the reception's a bit better now, guys.
13:55 And hopefully you can hear me okay.
13:57 Please let Jamie know if you can hear me okay.
14:00 And again, because it's gonna keep cutting off,
14:03 every time you log back on, if you can share it,
14:07 it can get the momentum again,
14:08 otherwise people won't be able to log on,
14:11 won't be able to see it.
14:12 So again, put my finger where I need it to be,
14:16 my finger on the guide,
14:18 and then comb the hair down onto that point, okay?
14:22 (scissors snipping)
14:25 And again.
14:29 So this is gonna be quite an interesting shape,
14:31 'cause it's gonna basically stack out
14:34 on top of the stacking of the line underneath.
14:36 I can probably do this in one or two more sections.
14:43 Good.
14:46 Comb the hair down.
14:47 Same principle.
14:50 So I'm using the tight end of my comb,
14:53 that way I've got really good control, yeah?
14:55 If you use the wide end of the comb,
14:57 you might glide through the hair a bit easier,
15:00 but your tension won't be as strong.
15:02 And on this type of texture,
15:03 I really wanna control that texture.
15:05 Now my goal with the haircut is for it to swell up
15:09 and be really big and quite bouncy looking, okay?
15:12 I don't want it to be a flat shape.
15:14 Again, my last section, really groom it really well,
15:19 my finger where it needs to be, comb the hair out.
15:22 Now you're gonna see this haircut evolve
15:25 as the hair starts to dry, okay?
15:28 - So Cassandra's just wondering, it keeps breaking up,
15:31 are you still bringing all the hair to your guide?
15:33 - Yes, so at the moment, Cassandra, my number system,
15:36 thank you for asking questions,
15:37 my number system is everything goes to one, okay?
15:41 So now what I've got is I've got one shape underneath
15:45 and one shape on top.
15:48 So as I loosen the shape up and it dries,
15:51 I'm gonna have two shapes that basically stack up.
15:53 One's gonna stack up on top of the other, okay?
15:57 And then this length here is gonna slowly start to loosen up
16:01 and be an independent section.
16:05 And then what I'll do is I'll basically freehand
16:07 these two lengths together, so watch carefully.
16:10 Now I'm gonna come across diagonally,
16:13 comb this hair out together like this.
16:18 I'm not worried about the tension over the ear,
16:20 place the hair down and then visually,
16:23 I'm just gonna freehand those two lengths together.
16:26 So it's gonna end up becoming, having a corner here.
16:29 So again, comb this hair down,
16:32 place it over the ear,
16:36 and then visually, use a chipping technique
16:41 to connect the two together.
16:46 So what I'm doing is I'm maintaining a piece of weight
16:49 over the ear.
16:50 Okay, good.
16:56 Now, now I've cut half of the haircut,
16:59 I'm gonna come onto this side.
17:00 And what I'm gonna do is I've got obviously
17:04 all this length here which I can get rid of,
17:06 so let me just get rid of that to make it easy for me.
17:15 (laughs)
17:16 I'm doing that.
17:17 Okay, so now on this side,
17:20 I'm gonna work something much more mechanical
17:22 and more fundamentally more classic.
17:25 So what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna try
17:26 and be a bit clever with this.
17:28 I could use the underneath length as a guide, okay,
17:31 and just cut a beautiful round line.
17:33 I could use this length here,
17:35 which is my internal shape as a guide,
17:38 and come down vertically.
17:39 In fact, I'm gonna do that, I think it's quite clever,
17:41 quite a clever way of working it.
17:43 So let me show you that.
17:44 Again, use a bit of oil milk,
17:48 that way I'll hydrate the hair, okay?
17:51 Thanks, darling.
17:53 And then what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna use
17:56 this length here as my guide, okay?
17:59 I'm gonna comb my line out of the way for now, okay?
18:02 So I'm working inside the shape now.
18:05 I'm gonna then comb all the shape on top down.
18:10 I'm gonna use that point there as a guide.
18:12 Can you see this length here?
18:13 I'm gonna come diagonally down.
18:15 Angelica, if you just come around this side.
18:17 So I'm gonna use this length as a guide.
18:21 I'm gonna comb the hair out.
18:25 Can you see that?
18:27 That bit there, that guide there.
18:30 Let me turn the chair around so you can see better.
18:34 - There we go.
18:35 - So I'm gonna comb the hair out.
18:41 That's my line, I'm not gonna disturb my line.
18:43 I'm gonna come out and I'm gonna graduate this shape in.
18:46 Okay, that's my first section.
18:50 Okay, now I'm gonna take the diagonal sections
18:56 and I'm gonna comb that to section one.
18:59 Okay?
19:03 And my idea now is to basically build
19:08 a lot of weight in the front.
19:10 That way I can get a really beautiful bend in the hair.
19:13 So again, look at me.
19:16 Comb the hair through so you're super clean.
19:18 Don't be lazy.
19:19 Comb the hair down.
19:23 Take a diagonal section.
19:24 Thank you.
19:26 And then comb the hair back into that line,
19:30 that cutting line, okay?
19:32 So as you're combing the hair back,
19:39 what's gonna happen is it's gonna increase in length
19:41 and weight in the front.
19:43 At the end, I'm gonna bring the length up anyway,
19:45 but it's the weight that I wanna try to build, okay?
19:48 One second, there you go.
19:51 Perfect.
19:55 Comb that hair back and down.
19:57 Jamie, let me spin this more.
19:59 - Yeah.
20:00 - So you can see a lot better?
20:02 - Yes.
20:03 - Perfect.
20:04 Okay.
20:06 - Mario asks, "Why over-direction?"
20:09 - Okay, so my number system right now, Mario,
20:13 is one, two to one, three to one,
20:18 four to one, and so forth.
20:21 So the idea is to really build that weight in the front
20:24 and manage that weight in the front, okay?
20:27 And every angle, my cutting angle is gonna be triangular.
20:31 So if you see, what should happen is
20:34 the dynamics of my shape should build up
20:37 and become quite stark.
20:38 Once I put my external shape in,
20:41 the whole shape will basically come alive.
20:43 But at the moment, all I'm trying to--
20:46 - We're alive again.
20:47 - We're alive again, perfect.
20:49 Okay, hold that for me.
20:51 Again, guys, I'm sorry for the disruption.
20:53 There is a bit of a storm happening outside.
20:56 Don't know if you can hear the wind, actually.
20:58 So I'm very lucky.
21:00 I'm in Edmonton in Canada.
21:02 I've been here all week teaching an Alon Unplugged course.
21:06 An Alon Unplugged course is basically like a taster course
21:10 for all of the different curriculums that we have,
21:13 just to give people a little bit of an insight
21:15 into how our curriculums work
21:17 and our language and so forth.
21:18 Today is day three.
21:22 So we've been working on primary disconnection,
21:26 how it works, what disconnection does, and so forth.
21:30 And we're over here with Davinas.
21:34 And we're trying to do something which is quite special,
21:36 which is build the brand of Alon over here in Edmonton.
21:41 We've been here once before, many moons ago, two years ago.
21:46 And it's something that we wanna try to really encourage
21:49 and keep building, and keep building
21:51 the curriculums over here, so we can start to try
21:54 to connect to as many people as we can.
21:57 So if you're watching this and you're enjoying this,
21:59 I know the reception isn't the best,
22:01 but if you're watching it,
22:03 please feel free to share the video.
22:05 The video, the share button is on the bottom left, okay?
22:09 So now, guys, I'm over-directing back,
22:12 but now I'm actually lifting slightly.
22:14 So I've gone from basically one, two to one,
22:19 three to one, four to one, five to one.
22:24 And then what I've started to do is I've started to lift.
22:27 So six has gone to five, seven has gone to six.
22:31 Okay, that way, I'm gonna start to soften the shape through.
22:34 Again, my sections are diagonal.
22:37 The reason my sections are diagonal
22:39 is because I end up controlling both my vertical
22:42 and my horizontal shape at the same time,
22:45 and I really, really influence that shape,
22:48 those two shapes, sorry.
22:51 Now, technically, because of the over-direction,
22:55 I'm naturally gonna push weight forward,
22:57 but because I'm using an element of elevation,
23:01 the shape in the back should build, okay?
23:03 - And, excuse me, Delby wants to know
23:06 when is the section behind the ear, right?
23:09 - One would be the section behind the ear, correct.
23:11 Well done, Delby.
23:12 So now, I'm gonna comb this hair around, back.
23:17 Okay, so I'm gonna build an element of weight in that front.
23:23 And then what I'm gonna do
23:25 is I'm gonna cut the external shape,
23:27 and then I'm gonna layer it through to make it a bit lighter.
23:30 So what that's done is it's built the texture
23:32 and built the length for me, okay,
23:34 the weight inside the shape from the side profile.
23:38 Now I'm gonna come and put my length
23:40 in front of the side.
23:42 So I've still got this triangular zone,
23:44 which I haven't cut yet, okay?
23:47 Can you see that?
23:48 So what I'm gonna do with that triangular zone
23:52 is I'm gonna reestablish the shape
23:53 that runs through my haircut this way, okay?
23:56 So if I could get some Dodo, please.
24:00 Thank you.
24:02 So I'm gonna use Dodo by Davines, okay?
24:06 And that will rehydrate the hair for me,
24:08 and it'll make the hair a bit more pliable, okay?
24:11 You can see the hair is quite dehydrated, okay?
24:14 So the more I use of this,
24:16 the better and easier it will be for me
24:18 to work with the texture, okay?
24:20 Good, thank you.
24:26 All right, now I'm gonna come
24:27 through the front of the haircut,
24:29 and I want to basically have the length
24:31 sitting around about the jaw, okay?
24:34 So I'm gonna take, come on this side, Angelica.
24:37 I'm gonna take curved sections that come around like this,
24:43 okay?
24:46 And again, this hair that you're not cutting, one second,
24:49 this hair that you're not cutting, keep it clean.
24:51 Now I've gotta be careful because the danger
24:54 of when you're working really clean with curly hair
24:56 is you end up pulling out the bend in the hair,
24:58 and the hair gets used to be stretched.
25:00 I do want it to curl really nicely,
25:02 so I need to start to work with the hair
25:04 and loosen it up as I'm working.
25:06 So comb the hair down.
25:08 Now I want it to sit around the lip area,
25:10 which means I need to go slightly longer than the lip
25:13 so it bends up and sits around the top of the lip, okay?
25:16 And I'm gonna come through the side,
25:17 and my body's gonna constantly move, okay?
25:21 And I'm gonna aim for the back of the head.
25:25 So I'm gonna aim for my hairline
25:28 through the back of the shape.
25:30 And again, taking my section, going all the way around now.
25:37 Angelica, if I can borrow your fingers darling, thank you.
25:40 So I'm gonna aim for the back.
25:44 Bearing in mind, I'm gonna cut the external shape in after.
25:48 So at the moment, all I'm doing is I'm working,
25:50 I'm trying to connect the line through.
25:52 And what should happen is it will be quite heavy.
25:57 In a minute, I'm gonna come through and I'm gonna lay it,
25:59 just the hair on the front of the face a little bit,
26:02 just to really encourage the bend in the curl.
26:05 Because if it's too heavy, the curl won't take as well.
26:09 So I do want some movement in the front.
26:19 So tilt the head away from me,
26:21 that way I can access it better.
26:23 Keep the fingers facing the floor.
26:25 Now the beautiful thing about curly hair
26:28 is to try and remember that it does swell
26:31 and it does expand.
26:33 It does change texture as you cut it
26:35 and it does change texture as the hair is colored, okay?
26:40 So now, even though this hair's gonna reach there,
26:43 what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna layer it,
26:45 which will automatically get rid of some of that for me.
26:47 So I'm gonna come through the top again.
26:50 I'm gonna go from the corner of my original disconnection.
26:56 I'm gonna take a diagonal section.
26:59 Jennifer, if you could give me a hand, babe.
27:01 Comb that hair down one second.
27:03 Comb that through.
27:04 Remember, you need to always try and work
27:06 as clean as you can, okay?
27:09 Especially with curls.
27:10 So comb the hair up.
27:12 Now I'm gonna keep all of the weight on the external shape.
27:18 And I'm gonna cut a square cutting line through the top.
27:21 Okay, so comb the hair straight up
27:24 and cut a square cutting line.
27:26 Now, my sectioning pattern's gonna pivot at that point.
27:33 Thank you, darling.
27:37 Perfect.
27:40 And then I'm gonna comb two to one.
27:43 So I'm gonna keep building the length over there,
27:45 but I'm gonna flatten and loosen
27:48 some of the weight internally.
27:50 Hopefully we're still live.
27:52 Can anyone confirm that we're live?
27:54 Anyone in the background watching?
27:56 Are we live, can you see it?
27:58 - We got some thumbs up, so I think we are.
28:00 - We're all good.
28:01 Okay, so I'm using a square cutting line.
28:04 So from the back to the front, it's gonna be square.
28:06 But because I'm over-directing everything to me,
28:09 from left to right, it's gonna get longer.
28:10 So it's gonna be triangular.
28:12 Again, I'm gonna pivot again.
28:14 Take that hair away.
28:16 Really groom it so your section's nice and clean.
28:22 And then comb all the hair.
28:23 Now, can anyone tell me, anyone watching,
28:26 can anybody explain why am I standing
28:28 on this side of the head?
28:30 Okay, that's a really important factor, where I stand.
28:33 So why am I standing on this part of the head?
28:35 And if anyone in the room can answer,
28:40 I'm happy to hear you guys.
28:42 - So I can control the length.
28:44 - So I can control the length, okay.
28:47 Anybody else?
28:49 - I can see the root.
28:50 - Huh?
28:50 - I can see the root.
28:51 - Good, I can see the root.
28:52 So I'm looking at the root of number one.
28:54 Well done, very good.
28:56 So I need to basically see, my number system is one,
29:00 two to one, three to one, four to one, and so forth.
29:03 So by standing here, I can see the root of number one.
29:06 Okay?
29:07 - Jermaine and Tony both said, so you can see the roots.
29:10 - Good, well done.
29:12 Okay, it's my last section,
29:14 that's gonna even reach over there.
29:16 And then I'm gonna start to work on my external shape.
29:19 Now when I work on my external shape,
29:20 like you probably see on most weeks,
29:22 if you're regular watchers,
29:24 you will see that as soon as you put the external shape in,
29:27 all of a sudden the internal shape comes alive.
29:30 Because it's like a,
29:33 think of it as like a frame for a photograph.
29:36 You kind of box in what you're focusing on
29:40 by putting an external shape in.
29:42 Just try and think of it as like a photo frame.
29:45 So my length now, look, it's gonna sit where I want,
29:48 which is by the lips, it's quite sexy,
29:49 so it'll bring all the attention to her lips.
29:51 She's got amazing lips,
29:52 so I wanna focus on those bad boys.
29:54 Okay?
29:56 Calm the head down, and just double check
29:58 nothing hangs over my external shape.
30:00 Use lots of tension to control that.
30:05 Calm the head down,
30:08 and just take away any excess.
30:10 Make sure my fingers are facing the floor,
30:13 not bending my fingers.
30:15 Okay?
30:16 And again, start to loosen up and see how that moves,
30:18 see how that shape starts to build.
30:20 Okay?
30:21 Now I'm gonna come through the back,
30:23 and this is where I'm gonna have a bit of fun.
30:26 Let me come round,
30:27 here, Jamie, you sit there.
30:28 Let me, you just don't move, just stand there.
30:31 Now I'll come to you, okay?
30:33 Right, pump the chair up as high as you can,
30:35 that way I can, it can be eye level
30:37 when I'm working my external shape,
30:38 so I'm not bending my spine,
30:40 or my neck, and I'm not shifting in.
30:42 Okay?
30:43 I'm gonna use some oil milk again,
30:45 and also some Day-Lay.
30:46 Now can you see, this is looking good,
30:52 but it's not looking amazing.
30:54 But in a minute, when I finish,
30:55 you'll see how important the external shape,
30:59 how it works, and how it comes alive.
31:01 So now I'm gonna use a little bit of the oil milk again.
31:04 (oil milk spraying)
31:07 Thank you.
31:08 Right, so, externally,
31:13 obviously I've got my two internal shapes.
31:16 Externally now, I'm gonna put something quite graphic in
31:19 to really bring that alive, okay?
31:21 So I'm gonna comb the hair down.
31:22 I'm actually gonna use quite a lot of tension.
31:27 I'm gonna comb the hair down,
31:28 I'm gonna secure the hair,
31:30 and then I'm gonna arc my line.
31:32 So what does an arc mean?
31:34 An arc is a bit more like a curve, okay?
31:36 And what that does, it just basically allows the shape
31:40 to really, really look fluid.
31:43 So if you think about it,
31:44 we've talked about it before on the unplugged,
31:46 when you cut lines that are curved,
31:49 they always look slightly more sexy.
31:52 Think about like a fast car, a sports car.
31:55 The reason why they look sexy
31:57 is 'cause they look like they're moving
31:58 even though they're stationary,
31:59 because of the curve on it, okay?
32:01 Haircuts work in the same way.
32:03 Whereas if you think about like cars like,
32:06 I don't know, kind of boxy cars,
32:07 like smart cars or whatever,
32:09 they're not as sexy because they don't have
32:11 those kind of curves.
32:12 And it's the same with a haircut.
32:16 A beautiful kind of really kind of sexy looking haircut
32:19 tends to have curvaceous elements to it.
32:23 So comb the hair down,
32:24 and then I'm gonna build to behind the ear look.
32:27 (scissors snipping)
32:30 Comb the hair down.
32:35 And then I'm gonna basically chip that line in.
32:38 I'm keeping that length over the ear.
32:43 I don't wanna go get a hole over the ear.
32:45 Move the hair around,
32:48 see how it starts to move and how it starts to play.
32:51 And again, now through the back,
32:55 I need to make sure both sides connect.
32:57 So I cut the external shape first on this side.
33:00 What I'm gonna do is I'm just gonna round that off
33:02 so it flows through a bit nicer.
33:04 So I'm gonna take that down,
33:06 and I'm gonna take away a little bit of that corner.
33:09 Just 'cause the bend in the hair,
33:11 can you see it's flicking?
33:14 It's flicking out, it's rotating.
33:16 So I'm gonna cut some of that bend out, okay?
33:18 By lifting that corner off.
33:20 And by lifting that corner off,
33:22 the shape will basically be much more fluid.
33:25 Good.
33:31 So now, I'm just gonna get rid of all the neck hair,
33:36 and then I'm gonna start styling the hair clip.
33:38 Okay?
33:39 Just for the interest of time,
33:41 I'm gonna use this small clipper.
33:43 I'm just gonna remove all the excess.
33:45 (clipper buzzing)
33:48 And you can see instantly,
33:54 as soon as you put that external shape in,
33:56 and you get rid of the neck hair,
33:58 all of a sudden the internal shape starts to come alive.
34:02 And that's the beauty of putting an external shape
34:05 into a haircut.
34:06 It basically frames the internal shape, okay?
34:10 Okay, so I'm gonna start to shape the hair through now.
34:15 I'm gonna let the hair start to come alive.
34:17 - Johnny, you are on another level, says Tony.
34:22 (laughs)
34:23 - Tell Tony I said thank you.
34:24 And I hope that level is on this planet,
34:28 because at the moment I'm feeling
34:29 a little bit extra-threshold.
34:32 Okay, so I'm now looking at my shape.
34:35 I'm liking the fact that I've got these two bi-levels,
34:37 and that's quite interesting.
34:38 The only thing I'm thinking of is,
34:40 at the moment I've got almost three bi-levels.
34:41 I've got one here, I've got another one here,
34:43 which is gonna dry quite full and quite big.
34:46 And then this one here, it's almost quite steppy.
34:49 So what I might do is I might, I could do it when it's dry.
34:53 What I might do is I might go through
34:55 and just slice into some of this,
34:56 just so it's not so heavy, okay?
34:58 So let me do that now.
35:00 I'll do it now, 'cause once I've set the curl,
35:01 it won't be the same.
35:02 So, Anjali, can you come to the front, babe?
35:05 So I'm literally back to the original triangle.
35:09 Hold that for me there, Bob.
35:10 Just hold that in your hand, yeah?
35:12 And then what I'm gonna do, I'm gonna take the hair,
35:14 I'm gonna make sure the external shape stays out, okay?
35:18 And then this hair on top, I'm gonna basically twist cut it.
35:21 So I'm gonna leave that out, okay?
35:24 And just gently, can you see the length?
35:26 This length here, this short hair,
35:28 is the length of the third zone that I cut.
35:32 So I'm gonna use that, and I'm gonna just gently
35:34 take out some of the density in that hair, okay?
35:38 And then I'm gonna do the same here.
35:40 But again, can you see I'm ignoring the hairline,
35:43 'cause I don't want it to be too weak.
35:45 So I use the knuckle of the blade inside there,
35:47 and I gently open and close the shape like that.
35:50 Just really gently.
35:51 Don't take out too much, 'cause I want it to loosen up.
35:55 Okay, and what that does,
35:56 it just visually connects the zones together.
35:58 Can you see that?
36:00 I don't know how clearly you can see that.
36:02 Go back through this section, thank you.
36:04 And again, keep the external shape out.
36:08 Keep that alone, leave that alone.
36:10 Go inside the shape.
36:11 Let's get rid of that for now.
36:13 Twist the haircut.
36:15 Now by twisting it backwards and cutting it like this,
36:18 what will basically happen is the short hair,
36:21 even though it will rotate out,
36:23 it will push and encourage the hair
36:24 to move away from the face, okay?
36:26 And then again, that softens the weight that sits there.
36:29 So this is called twist cutting, okay?
36:33 And again, comb the hair out.
36:35 And all I'm doing now is I'm working on the mid-lengths
36:38 and the ends.
36:39 I'm not going anywhere near the root, okay?
36:42 Now the closer I go to the root,
36:45 obviously the more I soften the whole shape through.
36:48 But just by doing that,
36:49 I get these little longer and shorter bits.
36:51 So when I start to style this haircut
36:53 and it starts to become bigger and fuller,
36:55 what will basically happen is
36:57 the shape will blend in underneath.
36:59 Last bit here, there you go, thank you, darling.
37:03 And again, leave the hairline out.
37:06 Leave that length, 'cause that's your outline, okay?
37:10 Comb the hair out, twist the hair, twist it once,
37:15 and then open and close using the corner of your blade.
37:18 So you're not actually closing your blade, okay?
37:22 And make sure I don't wanna lose the outline,
37:24 I don't wanna lose the length in it.
37:25 I just wanna get rid of all the weight in it.
37:27 And again, one more, comb it up and twist it.
37:31 So product-wise, I'm thinking of using the curl balm
37:34 and the oil, okay?
37:35 So we're gonna use the curl balm and the oil,
37:38 and I'm gonna talk to you about how to use product, okay?
37:41 'Cause a lot of people, a lot of hairdressers
37:42 tend to be quite scared of product,
37:44 'cause they're scared that it's gonna overload the hair,
37:47 okay?
37:48 Okay.
37:53 So I'm gonna need a hairdryer, a diffuser,
37:56 and the product.
37:57 So I'm gonna start with the product.
37:59 Can I go, Jamie, let me talk you through this.
38:03 Okay, so we have a series of products
38:05 that we've been using, okay?
38:06 We've used the Day Day, the oil milk, the curl balm,
38:11 and we're gonna use the oil.
38:13 Now, let me explain to you how to apply the products.
38:16 So using Day Day, Day Day is a water-based product, okay?
38:19 So it's a leave-in condition spray.
38:21 So it's quite light, it's very water-based.
38:23 The oil is slightly more cream-based.
38:25 It's got like a milky-type substance to it,
38:27 so it does leave a residue.
38:29 The cream is a cream-based product,
38:32 and the oil, obviously, is an oil-based product.
38:34 But the difference between the oil, oil, and regular oils
38:37 is that it doesn't contain silicone.
38:38 So it's very easy to not, oh, you can keep using it,
38:42 and you won't get that kind of plasticky feel to the hair.
38:45 Now, the order in which you apply the products is important.
38:47 So water-based, then cream-based, then oil-based.
38:52 Now, most oil-based products tend to block the hair
38:56 and block other products getting in.
38:59 So try and keep the oil-based products to the end, okay?
39:02 We still live? Perfect.
39:04 Okay, so I'm using the Curl Balm.
39:06 Can you see that? Look how runny that is.
39:07 But it is still a cream.
39:12 I'm not scared to use it.
39:14 Now, I'm gonna use, I'm gonna distribute it
39:19 on the front and back of my hands like so.
39:21 I'm gonna need a towel, please, babe.
39:23 Okay, and then what I do, look, I work it into the hair,
39:27 and I really loosely apply the product, okay?
39:31 And I run the product through the hair,
39:34 and I get all the baby hairs,
39:35 'cause it's all the hairline, which is the baby hairs,
39:39 which basically end up becoming
39:40 really, really excessively fluffy.
39:42 So work into all the hairline,
39:44 really work that product in, okay?
39:47 Don't be scared to use that product.
39:49 And again, really work that product in.
39:56 Now, because, obviously, some of the hair has gone quite dry,
40:01 I might wanna rehydrate it, it's pliable.
40:04 But don't forget, product has water in it anyway, yeah?
40:08 So however much you use, bear in mind
40:11 that it has water-based in it,
40:13 so you don't need to keep soaking the hair.
40:15 'Cause the more you soak the hair,
40:16 the more you dilute the product,
40:17 so you need to use more product, which is a waste, obviously.
40:20 And as a sound owner,
40:21 it can be very expensive to waste product.
40:23 So apply your product.
40:25 Now, this product goes hard very quickly, okay?
40:29 So what we wanna do is you wanna dampen the hair down
40:33 with a little bit of Day Day,
40:34 just to make the shape more pliable, okay?
40:36 This is easy to run, just it hydrates the hair
40:39 and softens the product,
40:40 'cause the product goes really hard really quickly, okay?
40:43 So I'm just gonna use a little bit of Day Day again,
40:45 just to help the hair soften through,
40:47 so when I'm playing with it, it softens through.
40:52 (spraying)
40:54 And then what I'm gonna do,
40:55 I'm gonna show you a little trick
40:56 in regards to working and styling curly hair.
40:59 Before I do that, I'm gonna put oil in the hair.
41:01 And again, don't be scared to use oil at all, yeah?
41:04 Use loads, it's not a problem,
41:06 'cause the hair will just drink it up
41:07 like no one's business.
41:08 Okay, good.
41:11 Back in front of the hands.
41:12 And then work it through the hair.
41:15 Focus on the hairlines,
41:16 get all these baby hairs nice and oiled.
41:21 Really work it in.
41:22 Now ideally what I want is,
41:25 I wanna create a really beautiful curl.
41:27 I don't mind if it goes a little bit fluffy,
41:29 but I don't want it to be a complete fluff ball, okay?
41:32 So I work that product in.
41:34 Make sure all the hair has got product on it.
41:38 And then I go to style it.
41:41 Do me a favour, you pass me the red comb.
41:43 In fact, bring all three combs over there.
41:46 So let me talk to you about how curls work, okay?
41:49 So, thank you.
41:51 Do me a favour, show the camera the combs.
41:55 So we've got three completely different combs.
41:57 Now, a beautiful defined curl,
42:00 think of it a little bit like a shoelace, okay?
42:03 So a shoelace is basically,
42:05 if you started to pick the plastic off a shoelace,
42:08 what would happen is it would become really aggressive
42:11 and raw in texture.
42:13 Now each comb has different widths within the comb, okay?
42:17 Now, when you're combing the hair through,
42:19 so now I've applied the product,
42:21 I'm gonna use the red Elan comb.
42:23 And what I'm gonna do,
42:24 the width of the comb will give me the curl.
42:27 So think about one defined curl,
42:30 lots of fluffy, wiry curls glued together with product, okay?
42:34 So think about the product a little bit like the plastic
42:37 on the shoelace, which holds it all together.
42:40 And then what you do is you comb the hair down
42:42 and you comb it out.
42:43 Now, if I want the hair to be flat
42:45 and I don't want it to move,
42:46 what I'll do is I'll comb the hair down.
42:49 But what I want is I want the hair to get air inside.
42:51 So as I comb it through, I comb it out.
42:54 And what will happen is the shape will start to swell
42:58 and it will start to stick out from the hair
42:59 and I'll get volume, lots of volume in the haircut, okay?
43:03 Now, each zone I comb it through,
43:05 I'm using the widest part of the comb.
43:07 So my curls basically will basically be as wide as my comb.
43:11 Now, around the front where the hairline's really fluffy,
43:14 I might wanna twist some of that, okay?
43:17 So with that one, for example,
43:19 what you might do is you wanna twist it.
43:21 So you get it, you wring it in your fingers.
43:23 And you leave it and it will start to bend by itself, okay?
43:30 Again, work it through.
43:32 And I'm lifting because I want there to be a lot of volume.
43:36 I wanna see all the different dimensions of the shape.
43:38 Around the hairline in the back,
43:40 what I'm gonna do is I'm not gonna,
43:42 I'm gonna use the tighter end of the comb
43:44 and I'm gonna comb it down
43:45 so it sticks a little bit to the scalp.
43:47 And then on top of that, I'm gonna loosen it up.
43:50 And the reason for that is 'cause I want the outline
43:52 to be quite defined so you can really see it.
43:55 And again, comb the hair out, let it swell,
43:59 let the curls start to bend, okay?
44:01 Again, around the bottom where the hairline is,
44:04 comb the hairline down.
44:07 And the rest of the shape, comb it out.
44:11 So basically what's gonna happen is
44:13 it's gonna become a lot more airy
44:15 and the shape will become quite big and quite bouncy.
44:18 So lift the hair every time and then let it drop.
44:25 Comb the hair through, lift the hair and let it drop.
44:30 And we're doing this with every section.
44:33 And what will happen is the air will get inside the shape.
44:36 So when I'm diffuser drying it,
44:37 I'm gonna get the air inside the shape.
44:39 So when I'm diffuser drying it,
44:41 the air actually gets into the root
44:42 and really swells the hair up, okay?
44:45 And the same for this side, comb the hair out.
44:48 Wide tooth for the curl now,
44:51 'cause I want it to be a wider curl.
44:54 Comb the hair out.
44:56 Now I don't mind if the shape really swells
45:00 because the haircut has been designed
45:02 for the shape to swell.
45:04 In other words, for this front zone,
45:06 the layer that we put in was designed
45:09 to basically loosen the curl up.
45:11 And the over direction that was used for the back
45:15 was designed to really build the weight
45:18 where the ear is by over directing it back.
45:21 Comb the hair down.
45:23 Comb the hair across like this.
45:27 Comb it down.
45:29 And let it start to fall down into position how it wants.
45:34 And again, now the beauty of curly hair
45:37 is actually the preparation.
45:38 The drying process should take five,
45:41 maximum 10 minutes, okay?
45:43 But the preparation is the key to how the haircut looks.
45:46 Okay, now that I've combed the hair through
45:48 with my open palm, I'm just gonna literally
45:50 just cut the hair like that.
45:52 Okay, I'm not gonna squeeze it,
45:53 I'm not gonna scrunch it,
45:54 I'm just gonna just support the natural bend.
45:57 Yeah, with curls, let the curl do the work for you.
46:00 Don't over force it, okay?
46:03 Good.
46:05 Okay, now,
46:06 slow speed, high heat.
46:09 Slow and hot.
46:12 Just basically tilt the head slightly.
46:18 Cut the hair.
46:21 Hold it there for five to 10 seconds.
46:26 Now when you're coming, when you're moving on,
46:29 don't drag the diffuser out of the hair.
46:31 Come out and then go in.
46:34 Hold it for 10 seconds.
46:36 Come out and then go in.
46:38 Okay, and we're gonna do that three times.
46:41 So 10, 10, 10, 10, 10.
46:44 10, 10, 10, so about three minutes
46:48 and the haircut will be almost dry.
46:50 Hold it another 10 seconds.
46:53 And then once I've done it three times,
46:55 then I'm gonna start sticking my fingers inside it
46:57 and really loosening it up.
46:59 Okay, but for now, I need to do it
47:01 and if I start getting my fingers in there,
47:04 what's gonna happen is I'm gonna separate
47:06 the bends in the curl.
47:07 I want the haircut to do all of the work for me, okay?
47:11 And again, now look, moving across,
47:14 tilt the head, cut the hair, leave it, don't touch it.
47:18 This is your enemy right now.
47:20 Probably can sit out loud.
47:24 This is your enemy, just ignore it for now, all right?
47:27 The more you do it, the more you'll get
47:29 the hair in the hair, the more you separate the curl.
47:34 Ideally, what we wanna try to do is set the curl
47:37 and then loosen the curl, okay?
47:39 - So Mario just needs a wet product to use.
47:44 - Perfect, okay.
47:45 So if you zoom in, Jamie, and just explain
47:48 the three products and what they do,
47:49 the four products and what they do.
47:51 - So the Day Day spray is a water-based cutting lotion.
47:56 That's what it's good for.
47:58 The curl cream is good for, it's cream-based,
48:01 but it's also meant to hold the curls together.
48:05 The Oi Melt is a cream-based detangler.
48:08 And then the Oi Oil is an oil that can be used
48:11 to separate and add definition to the curl
48:14 without feeling kind of a plastic-y layer of silicone.
48:19 - Okay, so I've worked back to the front.
48:24 So again, once I've done that once,
48:26 I go back to the beginning on this side.
48:28 10 seconds.
48:30 One, two, three, four.
48:33 Now, bear in mind, because the hair is dry now,
48:36 it's gonna get a lot hotter, a lot quicker on the skin.
48:38 So put your hand inside the shape
48:41 to really test the sensation of the heat.
48:44 Like that.
48:52 So by tilting the head around,
48:55 what happens is it basically loosens up.
48:59 The gravity will allow the hair to get away from the root,
49:02 so it loosens up the hair from the root.
49:05 Again, head to the side.
49:06 Now, I need to set the curl.
49:09 Normally with curls, I probably work from wet to dry,
49:13 and literally just put a bit of oil on in the end.
49:16 But because this hair gets quite processed,
49:18 the hair really lacks moisture and lacks a spring.
49:22 So by adding the product in,
49:25 let me turn the heat down a little bit.
49:27 By adding the cream in,
49:30 it will allow me to set the curl a bit better.
49:32 Okay.
49:39 So what's gonna happen is it will become slightly harder,
49:48 but I can make the hard soft.
49:53 Whereas if it starts off really soft,
49:57 you aren't gonna get the result you were looking for.
50:00 Again, reapplying the heat again.
50:05 Come around again, tilt the head to the side.
50:08 So now I'm on the third time.
50:12 So now the hair is almost dry.
50:13 The curl has become a little bit crispier now.
50:17 Okay, a little bit harder.
50:20 So I can start to actually scrunch the hair now.
50:23 So what you do is you grip it,
50:25 you squeeze it, and then you release it.
50:28 You get it, you squeeze it, you heat it up,
50:31 and then you release it.
50:35 - John would like to know what kind of dryer you're using.
50:39 - Okay, so at the moment I'm using a TGR Tempo XXP.
50:44 - Is there any recommendation of which one you'd prefer to use?
50:48 - Okay, good question.
50:50 So at the moment, I mean, I'm in Canada,
50:54 so my hair dryers don't work here
50:56 because of the power, blah, blah, blah.
50:58 So I'm using, I'm borrowing it here from Christina,
51:02 but ideally I tend to use, or as a company,
51:06 we tend to use THD hair dryers.
51:09 There's lots and lots of really good hair dryers
51:11 on the market.
51:11 I know there's one that a friend of ours
51:14 called Joe's has come up with,
51:16 which is apparently a really good hair dryer.
51:17 I haven't used it myself, but the team have,
51:20 and it's a really nice hair dryer.
51:22 I'm not sure what that's called.
51:24 Does anyone here know?
51:25 - Chikari Pro.
51:27 Chikari Pro.
51:28 - Chikari Pro, okay.
51:30 So you've got the THDs, you've got the Chikari Pro,
51:33 and also the Parlux hair dryers are really good.
51:36 The brand is Parlux, a French brand,
51:39 or Italian brand, sorry.
51:40 But I'll be honest with you,
51:45 this is quite a nice hair dryer.
51:47 It's quite nice.
51:47 I'm loving the diffuser, by the way.
51:49 This is quite clever.
51:51 Look.
51:52 Love that.
51:54 I've never used that before.
51:57 Okay, so now that the hair starts to dry,
51:59 I'm gonna get my fingers in now,
52:01 and really start to rake the roots, okay?
52:04 And what that's gonna do is it's gonna loosen my shape,
52:07 and this is where the hairdresser comes out from you.
52:09 So the haircut has been out,
52:11 now the hairdresser's gonna come out.
52:15 And you can see I've got these beautiful curls now
52:17 that I can start to--
52:19 - And we're connected.
52:20 - Connected, brilliant.
52:23 Okay, so now guys, I'm just gonna start to scrunch the hair,
52:26 really get my fingers in,
52:27 and start to loosen up that curl.
52:30 Go to the side.
52:32 Support the hair in the diffuser.
52:37 - And what kind of diffuser is it?
52:43 - Gina, what kind of diffuser is it?
52:45 - It's the--
52:46 - It's the, sorry?
52:47 - It's the Wires Park diffuser.
52:50 - It's the Wires Park diffuser,
52:52 which is another brand which is quite a good brand, okay?
52:55 I want royalties,
52:58 and we'll be paying for that on the plane tonight.
53:00 But basically, what you find is that,
53:04 just like Susan, everybody has their own preference, okay?
53:08 My advice would be, and it always is with everything,
53:11 is try them before you buy them.
53:13 Try it out, test them, see how you feel.
53:17 Can you see how now I can start to loosen that curl?
53:24 And the short hair around the crown
53:26 is gonna start to come alive.
53:28 And I'm starting to really loosen that shape up now.
53:31 So when the hair was wet,
53:34 it's hard to kind of visualize
53:37 what the shape's gonna look like.
53:39 But actually, once the hair is dry,
53:42 you can start to see the result of that shape.
53:45 So I've got one shape which is coming out,
53:47 which is my graduate shape,
53:50 then I have a completely another shape
53:52 working around the top.
53:53 And now I'm gonna start to really loosen that curl.
53:57 So you can see the difference between the two curls.
54:01 And I know, and that's why I keep disconnecting here.
54:03 - Okay, go.
54:06 - Back in? - Yep.
54:08 - Perfect.
54:09 So, while I was cutting the shape,
54:13 I know that some of you are watching
54:15 not quite understanding what it's gonna look like
54:17 in the end, but I quite like that.
54:19 I quite like the not quite knowing
54:21 how it's going to look shape.
54:23 It keeps me excited, it keeps me creative.
54:31 - What tips would you give twins to style at home?
54:35 - Well, with twins, obviously,
54:38 nobody knows her hair better than her.
54:40 No matter how good you are with the hair design,
54:43 no matter who you think you are,
54:44 the person who cares,
54:47 it understands their hair better than anybody else.
54:49 So a twin knows what kind of curls she likes.
54:52 What I'm gonna do now, guys,
54:56 I'm just gonna start to get my fingers inside.
54:58 Do we have any of your hair system?
55:02 Do we have the hairspray of your hair system?
55:04 Or do we have the essential, the medium hold?
55:07 That'd be great.
55:09 - And we do have a question from Anna.
55:11 - More inside, sorry.
55:12 - What was done with the color?
55:14 - What a great question.
55:15 Love that.
55:17 - It's a beautiful color.
55:18 - I'm gonna be using the Your Hair System hairspray
55:21 by Mr. Angelo Seminara and Davines.
55:24 So, what I'm gonna do now
55:28 is I'm gonna start to really loosen the shape
55:30 up with my fingers and let the shape come alive.
55:32 And while I'm doing that, who did the color here?
55:35 Do you know?
55:36 - Christine.
55:37 - Perfect, Christine, come on.
55:37 Let's have a chat about the color.
55:39 - She's just running past.
55:41 She'll be, here she comes.
55:43 - She's checking her makeup.
55:44 - That's right.
55:45 Make sure she's good.
55:47 - So what I'm doing now, guys, look,
55:48 with the hairspray, I'm gonna treat each zone separately.
55:51 So this zone here, which is a line,
55:54 I'm gonna comb that out like that.
55:57 So you can see the buildup of that shape.
56:01 And then the internal shape, get my fingers like a rake,
56:05 put it in, and then rake that hair up
56:07 and put the hairspray.
56:09 - Just one question before the color.
56:11 The hair looks fine.
56:12 Is it fine?
56:13 - No, this hair is definitely not fine.
56:17 [laughing]
56:18 It's been an interesting journey, I'm not gonna lie.
56:21 I've enjoyed the expression of the shape
56:26 and trying to really try something different out.
56:29 Again, tilt the head, get your fingers in there, shake it.
56:33 That loosens the curl.
56:35 Then lift the curl and let it set.
56:37 - We are live.
56:37 - We're live, perfect.
56:38 Okay, again, guys, I'm sorry for the interruption.
56:41 Please forgive me.
56:42 But what I've done now, I'm just using the hairspray
56:45 as my styling tool, lifting the hair up,
56:47 letting the haircut do the work.
56:49 A little tip, when you wanna create
56:51 more of a slightly more dressed look with the top,
56:54 get the wide tooth of the comb, comb it into the hair,
56:57 bend it like that, spray the hairspray, okay?
57:00 Use the back of the hairspray can to set the hair.
57:03 And that will end up becoming quite smooth.
57:08 Roll it away, so that way the hair tends to set forward.
57:12 And then once that's set,
57:16 so you can use a hairdryer, of course.
57:19 That way what happens is you get a bit of a kind of
57:21 finger wave type feeling to the shape.
57:25 And then just loosen the hair up around it.
57:27 So what I've got is I've got this beautiful
57:31 little rounded line through this side, okay?
57:35 And it works into slightly more of a triangular shape.
57:38 Head down for me.
57:39 I've got obviously my external shape on the bottom.
57:42 I've got my graduation, which works through
57:44 to more of a layer initially,
57:46 and then obviously graduating horizontally through the side.
57:49 I've got my line here, which from the side profile,
57:52 I get this beautiful little two-dimensional shape.
57:56 And then I've got this area of length,
57:58 which actually was a line, but because I freehand it lots,
58:01 I've got little soft areas of length that fall on top.
58:05 So this is my overall shape.
58:07 Great color, great products.
58:10 Hopefully you like my haircut.
58:12 I'm just gonna de-hair quickly.
58:14 If you've got any questions, last minute.
58:16 No change tonight.
58:17 The initial starting point of the video.
58:20 I'm sorry if you've lost reception so many times this evening,
58:23 but the original length was around about here, okay?
58:27 Just make sure there's no little detail work.
58:36 Super clean.
58:37 There you go.
58:43 Thank you.
58:45 - We're live.
58:46 - We're live, perfect.
58:46 Okay, so now we're live.
58:48 This is my final look.
58:49 It's a combination of lots of different shapes.
58:52 Feel free to trudge through the different versions
58:55 of this particular unplug that we've had.
58:57 I wanna thank everybody who's here tonight with us.
59:00 Thank you for tuning in.
59:01 If you enjoyed the haircut or enjoyed seeing bits of it,
59:04 please feel free to share it using the share button
59:07 on the bottom left-hand side of the screen.
59:09 Thank you for Gwen to let me cut her hair off
59:12 and beautiful color, great products, and enjoy the haircut.
59:16 Thank you so much,
59:17 and we'll see you next week in Lithuania.
59:19 Ciao.