Aired (September 22, 2024): We are bound to our second to the last featured flavor of the month! This time, Chef JR Royol takes us on an exploration of sour dishes. What delightful surprises await? Find out in this "sour-ry" not-so-sour episode!
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00:00It's our Hour of Food Explorers!
00:05Because the ingredients that really bring sourness to Filipino food are the star of this week.
00:11Let's start our journey in Pampanga.
00:14Because the author and restaurateur is in Cloud Thayag,
00:17we will discover together why sourness is a hit for us Filipinos.
00:24Vinegar and sour food, the acidity, is the most dominant flavor in Philippine cuisine in general.
00:34Because, number one, vinegar is the most, you can say, accessible ingredient.
00:41That is used, well, as a cooking ingredient.
00:47At the same time, as a sauce.
00:49And it can come, the vinegar can come from, like, any fruit.
00:53Whatever is the predominant in one area, especially Quezon, all the way to Bicol, it's the coconut tree.
01:00Here in Pampanga, up to Ilocos, it's the so-called tubo, the Visayas.
01:07It could be from coconut, it could be also from nipa palm, sasa, ganun din sa bulakan.
01:14Well, it's a given that anything cooked in vinegar will prolong the shelf life.
01:20Gives it a new dimension.
01:23Tinagtad, inihaw o kinisa, nilagay sa sisig plate, tapos hinaluan ng itlog.
01:31Ito ang sisig na kilala ng karamihan sa atin dito sa Metro Manila.
01:35Pero, alam nyo ba na sa Pampanga, ang sisig ay may maasim na pinagmulan?
01:41Way back, like, in the 1700s, there's this Kapampangan Spanish dictionary,
01:49written by a Spanish fryer, Fraile Bergano.
01:54The word sisig is already mentioned there.
01:57And it is defined as a salad served with a vinaigrette.
02:02It's usually given to a pregnant woman craving for something sour.
02:07Pero yung sisig nung araw, it's actually a snack.
02:10Talagang pinapapak mo yun in between meals,
02:13or naka-crave ka lang, or just to satisfy your hunger.
02:18One Friday, I was invited to play hooky by my classmate, na taga Apalit.
02:26Pagpasok namin sa bahay nila, sumalubong yung tatay.
02:29Pulutan ka muna.
02:30Yung sisig, basically, for the menfolk, it's something fatty to line the stomach before drinking.
02:38For 300 years, the sisig babi, synonymous with the sisig matwa, is the same,
02:45remained the same, meaning boiled and then soaked in vinegar.
02:50Pagkalipas ng dalawang siglo, isang madiscarting tinderan ng barbecue
02:54ang nagbigay ng bagong anyo sa kinasanayan nilang sisig.
02:58At kalaunan, siya ang kinaronahang sisig queen ng mga kapampangan.
03:04Aling Lusing Cunanan is supposed to be credited for having invented the sizzling sisig.
03:11So one time daw, according to Aling Lusing, may nag-order ng isang tenga, gano'n.
03:17Eh, sa dami ng order, nasunog, nakalimutan niya.
03:20Imbis na tatapon, magbabarbecue ng panibago,
03:24Aba, pinagpag niyong abon.
03:26Tinatad niyang gano'n, binagyan ng sibuyas, binuhusan ng suka.
03:32Try mo yung bago kong sisig, sabi dun sa customer.
03:36Paano gustuhan?
03:37At that point, nakita nung ibang customer, gumaya.
03:41So yun ang nag-umpisan nung Aling Lusing Sisig.
03:45Boiled, grilled.
03:48Sa bandang Kamainilaan, isa ring sisig revolution ang naganap.
03:54Kanya-kanyang version na, linagyan na ng mayonnaise, linagyan na ng itlog.
03:58So hindi na yung pulutan, naging ulam na ngayon.
04:06Matapos niyang ibahagi sa atin ang nakakatakam na kasaysayan ng sisig,
04:10kahainan tayo ngayon ni Sir Cloud ng Sisig Matua, ang OG version ng sisig.
04:17So basically, parang maskara, so nandiyan yung tenga.
04:30Importante yung tenga kasi, the ears, kasama yung nguso, hanggang yung nguso.
04:37So that means the whole mascara.
04:39Pakukuluin to, palalambutin.
04:41This is called the eardrums.
04:44Importante yung layering of skin, fat, and meat.
04:49Nandun yun.
04:52Tutusin, ito yung cartilage, ito yung puti-puti.
04:56That's where the collagen comes from.
04:58The usual thing, sibuyas, asin, paminta, tapos bay leaf.
05:10And the secret ingredient in boiling the pig's ears, pineapple juice.
05:16So, we all know that pineapple is a natural tenderizer.
05:22So, iikli yung boiling time mo.
05:27Okay, so pakuluin lang to, hanggang lumambot.
05:30Sigur mga 20 to 30 minutes.
05:33Wag niyo masyadong palambutin.
05:34Kailangan parang yung may, yung parang al dente yung konik.
05:37Pagkinagat mo yung tenga, yung lutong nung lugutok.
05:41Nung cartilage nandun pa.
05:53Sibuyas, konting asin, sili, paminta, suka.
06:01Asin generous, swimming in vinegar.
06:05Tapos ako, lalagyan ko konting kalamansi.
06:10Tapos ito.
06:18Tuwing magluluto tayo ng anumang putahin na maasim, suka ang ating go-to souring agent.
06:24Bukod kasi sa mura at accessible,
06:26ang Pilipinas ay tahanan sa iba't-ibang halaman at prutas na pwedeng pagkuna ng suka.
06:31Nahil dito, suka rin ang isa sa mga produktong bumubuhay sa ating ekonomiya.
06:37In 2024, Pilipinas ang nag-aangkat ng suka sa mga bansang tulad ng UAE,
06:43America, Australia, Saudi Arabia, at Qatar.
06:48Sa ngayon, tayo ang 13th largest exporter ng suka sa buong mundo.
06:55Samantala, para naman sa Bulakenyong Simanong Kiko na tubong paumbong,
06:59hindi lang niya kabuhayan ang paggawa ng sukang sasa, kundi pang araw-araw na panata.
07:06Itong prosesa po na ito ginagawa niyo, gano po kadala sa isang araw?
07:10Dalawang beses.
07:11Magat hapon.
07:16Kasi po, pag hindi niyo siya kinuha agad, masasayang.
07:19Masasayang.
07:20Kasi pag ito hindi mo kinaritan o tinapas.
07:24Titigil na po.
07:25Nagbabare ito.
07:27So ginagawa po natin yan tayo para po patuloy yung kwan?
07:31Pagtuloy.
07:32Okay.
07:33Mamayang hapon niyan, babalikan ka yan mga alas 4.
07:36Gaganyan yung kuli niyan.
07:38Pagka tigpas niyan, hindi ka makakakuhanan.
07:40Tuba pagka hindi mo nilagyan panahon.
07:42Hindi lang ito kasi, malaking papel ito.
07:46Pag alay ito, tatapon la yan.
07:48Manunulila rito.
07:50Kaya nilagyan namin yung pinakadila yan.
07:52I see.
07:53Panahod.
07:54Oo nga naman.
07:55Patulayan.
07:56Yan.
08:05Ang tuba na ginagawang sukong sasa ay nanggagaling sa nipa palm na maaari ring kainin.
08:12Oo yan. Pwede, malambot pa pala.
08:16Parang kaong.
08:17Oo.
08:18Actually, mas parang nyog sya tayo.
08:20Parang nyog.
08:22Parang nyog na hindi nagataan, parang ganun.
08:26Pagka tigpas.
08:38Malalaman mong pwede na itong tabasin kapag namumula-mula na ang kulay nito.
08:43So ito na po, dito na po ulit mag-uumpisan yung cycle.
08:45Ayan o, makikita natin.
08:47Nakakatas na sya agad.
08:52Tapos tight pa na po yan.
08:53Pwede na po nating sabitan yan ng...
08:55Bukas pa.
08:56Bukas pa.
08:57Bukas pa ng umaga.
08:58Kasi kumisan, may kasi yung mapaitan.
09:02Ah, yung una. Okay.
09:03Pagka nag-gayo na yan, nakakuha ko na yan. Diretso na sa tapayon na yan.
09:10Amoy paraiso.
09:13Ang sukong sasa ang vinegar variety na kilala rin sa tawag na sukong paumbong.
09:19Bukod sa pagiging panimpla, patok din itong bilang sawsawan.
09:26Music playing
09:40Game po. Ito, yung lumpia po.
09:44Unahan ko na kayo sa lumpia.
09:45Music playing
09:59Sagana ang Pilipinas sa puno ng nyug.
10:02At mula sa biyayang ito ng ating kalikasan,
10:05natutunan nating mga Pinoy na gamitin ang iba't-ibang parte ng punong ito.
10:10Ang dahon, ginagawa nating buslo.
10:12Ang tangkay, ginagawa nating kasangkapan.
10:16Ang bunga ay nagahatid naman sa atin ng sustansya.
10:22Kalaunan, natuklasan din natin kung paano ito pagkukunan ng tuba.
10:31Ang tuba, kapag sumailalim sa fermentation process, ay pwede nang maging suka.
10:36At ito ang isa sa mga regular na produktong sinusupply ni na Victor at Amanda Esmeriz
10:41sa kanilang mga kababayan sa Laguna.
10:44Dito po namin, pineperment ang suka.
10:48Ito po, ang aming fermentation.
10:52After po nito, yan, mga two to three weeks,
10:56kailangan po yan, ano, maysan papaarawin para umasim siya.
11:00Mula dito, tsaka na po ipapasturize.
11:03Para maka maalisan germs atung ano mga anon doon diyan.
11:06Pagkatapos nun, ipapalamigin na siya at tsaka pwede nang ibatin.
11:11Samantala, kapag isinailalim naman ang tuba sa distillation process,
11:16ito ay nagiging lambanog, isa pang pride ng Esmeriz Farm.
11:21Yung distillation na tinatawag ay yung pagluluto ng tuba para maging lambanog.
11:30Yun yung pawis ng tuba na lalabas siya sa process ng distillation.
11:42Kung coconut lang din ang pag-uusapan, may malaking flex din ang Davao diyan.
11:48Sa kasalukuyan, sila ang largest producer ng coconut sa bansa.
11:52At sa bandang Davao de Oro, tunay ngang namamayagpag ang industriyang ito
11:56na siya pang naging kanlungan ng isang naiibang sustainable tourist attraction.
12:13Tusithani Lubi Plantation is located in Mapini, Davao de Oro.
12:18Before it was a native coconut plantation.
12:21Now with the development, we have beautiful white sand beaches
12:24which can feel very relaxing while walking around or just enjoying yourself.
12:44Our lovely landscaped gardens with natural shades and our beautiful coconut park areas.
12:52The island is roughly 87 hectares in size.
12:5637 acres of the island is fully developed as a resort.
13:00The remaining 50 acres remains still a coconut plantation.
13:04In all restaurants, we are very focused on sustainability.
13:09We are using homegrown ingredients for some dishes
13:14and we try to maximize local farming industry, fishermen as much as possible for our produce.
13:22And to finish our dishes, we use our coconuts from the island.
13:29Sa paglilibot namin sa plantation, naramdaman din namin ang pagpapahalaga nila sa lupang tinatawag na nilang tahanan.
13:37Basically, we don't have hot water here.
13:39So we have our own recovery system.
13:43Yung heat from the air-conditioning na pinuproduce, kinakonserve sya, reserved to be the hot water para sa bathroom.
13:52Galing ah. So yung init na ipuproduce nung air-conditioning unit, sinasalon niyo yun for the hot water naman?
14:00To use for the bathroom.
14:02Malaking konsiderasyon din para kinamiss Claire ang lugar kung saan lamang sila makakaharvest
14:07ng kanilang coconut-related ingredients.
14:10So basically, this is the only area na pwede kami mag-harvest.
14:16This is for the safety and security for our guests.
14:19Pero ito lang yung parang showroom niyo, ma'am?
14:21Pero marami pa kayong area na pinagkukuhanan?
14:24Yes, correct.
14:38Thank you so much, Kuya Canyon.
14:40So Chef, we will let you try our freshly harvested tuba.
14:45We serve it actually complimentary, yung sinasabi ko.
14:49So aside from that, yung sobra naman ito, ito yung ginagawa namin.
14:54Vinegar.
14:55Atsaka vinegar.
14:56To supply the kitchen atsaka yung whole island.
14:59Cheers!
15:00Cheers!
15:01Cheers!
15:06Grabe yung tamis.
15:08Grabe.
15:10Pag ganito kaganda yung view mo, tapos may tunog ng alon na humahampas doon sa tabing dagat,
15:17eh, hindi ganun kahirap ma-inspire.
15:20And of course, nandito tayo sa South Davao and Davao de Oro.
15:24Ang lagi ko talagang hinahanap na putahe,
15:26automatic yan, o-order ako sa kahit anong restaurant na mapuntahan ko yung kanilang kinilaw.
15:31At yun nga, saktong-sakto dahil yung tagapag-alaga natin dito sa Davao,
15:35yung Dusit Tani Lubi Plantation, e may sarili silang coconut vinegar.
15:40At titake ko na rin yung advantage na to para gamitin yung isa sa hindi natin madalas na-utilize na ingredient,
15:47which is yung kanilang tabon-tabon.
15:52So we're just gonna add in ginger then, of course.
15:54I'll have thinly sliced and I will actually finely chop this.
16:08Yung chopped onions and ginger natin, we're just gonna put it in.
16:12Ito our acid, o yung ating vinegar.
16:15Ito infuse lang para magsama-sama yung flavors nila doon.
16:25Then we're just gonna season this with some salt,
16:29white pepper.
16:31I'm gonna cut this in portion.
16:40And kapag naki-kinilaw kayo, once na-naready nyo na yung flavor or yung timpla nung suka ninyo,
16:47it's best na ilagay nyo na kaagad yung isda.
16:49We would call vinegar as fire water.
16:56So basically, literally ito, lulutuin niya yung ating flesh or yung ating protein.
17:03There would be a reaction na mangyayari that would somehow give us ng parang output or end product na para na rin syang niluto.
17:13You want your fish to absorb and get all the flavors that you've worked on.
17:17And yung parang pinaka-garnish na rin natin, yung ating green chilies and of course, red chilies.
17:32That's what I always wanted with kinilaw.
17:36Kasi some kasi would do this, pero ma...
17:40Pungent yung pan.
17:41Pungent pa rin, tsaka may may yung fish, but this one is really good.
17:44We can attribute that or we can say na kasalanan yung tabon-tabon.
17:50Yun yung trabaho kasi nung tabon-tabon.
17:53What I noticed lang din, just going back to the vinegar.
17:56Pansin nyo, pag gumagamit kayo nung kagaya yung cocoa vinegar ninyo,
18:02nasa likod lang sya.
18:03Kinilaw to, pero unang lalapit sa bibig mo yung alat.
18:06Parang akala mo maalat sya, pero pag nguya mo, ay, hindi pala.
18:09Pero sya lang yung pumufron.
18:11Cheers, ladies.
18:12Cheers, cheers, cheers.
18:19Ang kakao na nagdala sa atin ng pait, may asin din palang hatid.
18:23Nagbabalik si Sir Rex Puentes Pina para ipakita sa atin kung paano siya nakakagawa ng kakao vinegar.
18:30Itong kakao vinegar namin, it's a produkto ng Golden Sunset Farm.
18:36Waste kasi yung drippings ng kakao.
18:38So, we thought of, why not collect the drippings and then make it into a vinegar?
18:45Kasi natural talaga sya, nagpe-ferment din sya.
18:48Gamit ang innovative product ng Golden Sunset Farm, naisip kong gumawa ng fresh serving ng island salad.
18:55So, meron tayo dito yung pomelo nga na nabili natin sa city.
18:59Babalatan lang natin, kuha lang tayo ng mga ilang portions dyan.
19:02So, meron din tayo ditong pina na isasama din natin doon sa ating platter.
19:11We're just gonna use the fire.
19:12Parang lang din mamimic natin yung feel ng nasa bonfire ka.
19:17We're gonna roast yung ating mga fruits.
19:20Specifically, yung ating pina.
19:24So, yung purpose lang natin dun sa step na to is basically, this is optional,
19:28is to just infuse or bahiran lang ng smoky aroma yung ating pineapple ating coconut milk.
19:37Prepare lang natin yung, parang magkakat doon sa sarap, sa tamis, doon sa creaminess na meron yung ating combination of fruits.
19:46So, we're just gonna add in vinegar, some salt, and some white pepper.
19:59I've never done this dish before.
20:02Pero kayo, pwede din kayo makapag-execute ng gantong kaswabe na putahe.
20:08You just have to change your mindset.
20:09Pag nandito kayo sa gantong klase ng location,
20:14hindi mo na kailangang komplikahin pa yung mga bagay-bagay.
20:17Humugot ka ng kahit anong fresh dyan, kahit anong available.
20:20Lagyan mo ng konting atake or ibang take sa mga simple flavors.
20:26Meron tayong simple pero complex na island salad.
20:37Marami tayong mga pruta at halaman na karaniwang ginagamit pang asim.
20:41Nariyan ang alibangbang.
20:43I've never tried alibangbang sa chicken.
20:46Kadalasan nagagamit ko yan sa seafoods.
20:50Ito is what Filipino cuisine is all about.
20:54Simple, humble, pero super yummy.
20:58Iba't-ibang citrus fruits tulad ng lias ponkan ng Mountain Province.
21:03At ang saring-saring pampaasin natin sa sinigang, talinum.
21:09Very mild lang yung flavor.
21:11Hindi sya yung nakakakilig na asim, pero yung bahid.
21:17Yun yung masarap sa kanya, kalma lang yung pag-aasim nya.
21:21Manga.
21:26Mmm, sarap.
21:27Ubas.
21:31Ay, sa mga.
21:36Bayabas.
21:38Ubus.
21:40Bayabas.
21:42Pakwan.
21:44At syempre, sampalo.
21:47Yung binibigyan niya sa aking feeling ngayon is very comforting.
21:51Natakawarm.
21:54Isa ring pruta sa sagana sa Western Visayas at Mindanao nalpapaasim sa signature Ilonggo dish na Kansi.
22:00Ang batuan.
22:01Kung inaakala mo na komplikado ang resepe nito, it's actually a one pot dish.
22:07Kahit batugan, pwedeng magkansi basta may batuan.
22:12We will be using batuan as our souring agent.
22:17So literal to, bulalo na maasim.
22:21Another characteristic ng kansi, it should be on an orange-ish hue.
22:26We're gonna sear our meat.
22:29Once na-sear natin yung ating beef shank, pagsasama-samahin lang natin yung iba pa nating ingredients, lalong-lalo na yung ating langka.
22:37Yung langka pang gulay ha, hindi yung hinog.
22:40And then of course, yung ating aromatics.
22:42Onions.
22:44Bay leaves.
22:45Bay leaves.
22:46Bay leaves.
22:47Bay leaves.
22:48Bay leaves.
22:49Bay leaves.
22:50Bay leaves.
22:51Bay leaves.
22:52Bay leaves.
22:53Bay leaves.
22:54Bay leaves.
22:55Onions.
22:56Ginger.
22:58And lemongrass.
23:00Then isasama na rin natin sa pagpapalambut, yung ating batuan.
23:07We'll finish our dish by seasoning it with salt.
23:13And for that spicy kick, siling pangsigang.
23:19Pero sa dinami-dami ng inigot mo, Sir Jaime, hindi ka pa nakatikim ng wan, ha?
23:25Kansi, ha?
23:26Oo nga eh, yun lang.
23:27So I'm excited actually to try the kansi.
23:30Sige nga, Sir.
23:31Sentensuhan mo na, mabinyagang ka sa kansi.
23:34Ano?
23:35Ano?
23:37Sisi ka bigla.
23:41We're happy again.
23:42Di ba?
23:45I like sour food kasi.
23:47So this is perfect.
23:49Ang asin na kumikiliti sa ating mga dila ay mula sa mga pagkaing diyaya sa ating ng kalikasan.
23:55Kaya tungkulin natin itong pagyamanin at ipagdiwang.
24:00Because sour is a flavor that is ours to share.
24:04Cheers.
24:05Cheers to good health.
24:06Cheers.
24:18Cheers.