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CreativityTranscript
00:00 Welcome to the Layers with Graduation technique.
00:03 This hair shape continues the layering series and shows how a successful combination of
00:08 layers and graduation creates a shape that is as effective as it is simple.
00:15 Check the head shape, hair growth and hairline patterns, paying particular attention to the
00:20 temple areas as the layering through this area will need to allow for any fineness present.
00:26 Also make a decision on hair length.
00:29 Ensure the client is sitting straight with arms and legs uncrossed.
00:33 Find the natural growth pattern and take a section that works vertically from the crown
00:38 to the front hairline.
00:42 Lift the section straight up and cut a line that follows the shape of the head at the
00:46 desired length allowing for the hairline.
00:57 Take a second section that starts at the same point but pivots around the head to the front
01:02 hairline.
01:03 At this point, depending on the head shape, cut the hair by either lifting the hair straight
01:08 out or over direct slightly onto the previous section.
01:19 Continue with the chosen cutting method until the side hairline area is reached.
01:45 Lift the sections around from the crown so that the side hairline is incorporated.
01:50 Continue lifting the section straight out and cut a line that follows the shape of the
01:54 head and is slightly longer at the outline.
01:58 Work with this pattern until the section forms a line that joins the crown to a point just
02:03 behind the top of the ear.
02:17 To produce a tighter graduated feel through the sides, take a section around the hairline
02:22 and using the length at the temple as a guide, cut a rounded line that will accentuate the
02:27 shape of the head.
02:33 The next section is parallel to the first and over directed slightly forward.
02:43 Now continue with the same sectioning and cutting procedure through the side area to
02:47 a point just above the top of the ear.
03:06 When the area behind the ear is reached, extend the section down into the nape and continue
03:12 cutting a line that follows the head shape.
03:15 Use the natural growth patterns to produce a natural looking hairline.
03:24 Take parallel sections and continue across the back lifting each section slightly higher.
03:38 Take time to visually assess the shape so far.
03:42 Now continue with parallel sections using the same sectioning and cutting procedure
03:47 as before.
04:10 Lightly cross check as the shape progresses drawing the hair up and away from the face.
04:36 Now continue with parallel sections using the same sectioning and cutting procedure as before.
05:05 Now take the second side, return to your original guideline and use the same method
05:22 of sectioning and cutting as for the first side.
05:26 Whilst working pay particular attention to the balance and symmetry.
05:31 Also bear in mind that when working on the second side the hand position will be different.
05:36 Take care to ensure that this doesn't impact on the shape.
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06:58 Refine the shape with a variety of freehand techniques.
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07:38 If the hair needs additional finish, prepare the blow dry by damping down with a suitable finishing product
07:43 and combing the hair into place.
07:45 In most cases, wrap drying the hair will be sufficient.
07:49 If necessary, the ends can be very lightly beveled.
07:52 And here is the finished result.
07:55 Pure, simple and quintessentially Sassoon.
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