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CreativityTranscript
00:00 The graduation with line and layers technique. This hair shape concludes the
00:05 graduation series and shows how to marry a graduated outline with internal
00:10 layering while still retaining a strong external shape. Prior to shampooing make
00:15 a thorough assessment of the hairlines.
00:27 Part the hair from the crown to the nape at center back and then starting from
00:32 the nape take a section horizontally from center to behind the ear. Keep the
00:37 head tilted forward through this part of the process to minimize the undulations
00:41 of the neck. Comb the hair in the direction in which it grows and cut a
00:46 line against the skin that mirrors the angle of the section. At this point you
00:53 can cut both sides of the back together or work on one side in isolation. Although
00:58 even dampness of hair, overview of balance and inclination of head should
01:03 be considerations. Here both sides are being worked on together. With either
01:08 method use fine sections and always follow the guideline. The next section is
01:14 parallel to the first and cut with a slight elevation.
01:19 The third section is elevated higher still. Notice how the line is kept square
01:34 behind the ears. This is key to this technique. As the graduation progresses
01:50 check the shape visually. The next section is elevated higher than the
01:55 third. The next section encompasses the occipital bone. Elevate this section
02:19 higher than the previous one but notice that the fingers are always below the
02:23 section being cut so that weight is always being built up. Here you can see
02:29 how the band of graduation has been developed. Now repeat on the second side.
02:45 Cross-check the graduation with vertical sections working from the inside out and
02:51 remembering to over direct accordingly.
02:55 [Music]
02:58 [Music]
03:26 It is important to check visually and technically. Now continue up to the top
03:31 of the ears on the first side. You'll notice that there's no further elevation.
03:38 [Music]
03:55 Now take a section from the center back through to the front hairline. Notice
04:00 that the sections will be lifted slightly higher each time. The front
04:07 sections are over directed back to maintain length. Now work up to the
04:17 original parting.
04:20 [Music]
04:49 [Music]
05:02 Repeat the same sectioning and cutting techniques for the second side.
05:07 [Music]
05:30 Check the balance and symmetry of the shape.
05:35 [Music]
05:51 Outline through the front. Take a center parting and then a section around the
05:56 front hairline. Comb the hair forward and lift the hair slightly to produce a
06:01 graduated effect. Cut a long fringe to the desired length. In this instance
06:07 between nose and mouth. Allow the side sections to drop out.
06:12 [Music]
06:28 Subsequent sections are taken parallel and work across the head. Comb down onto
06:34 the guideline over the nose.
06:37 [Music]
06:52 Repeat the same sectioning and cutting procedure for the second side.
06:57 Continually check the balance and length of the shape.
07:01 [Music]
07:26 Blend the side areas by taking a diagonal section around the hairline.
07:30 Hold the hair with the fingers resting against the skin and cut a line that
07:35 joins the side outline at the corner of the jaw.
07:38 [Music]
07:52 Repeat the same sectioning and cutting techniques for the second side.
07:57 [Music]
08:14 Layering on top of the head. Take a vertical section from the crown and round
08:20 off the corner that has been created. Using the first section as a guide, pivot
08:25 the sections around the head to take away the unnecessary internal weight.
08:30 [Music]
08:35 Now cross check from the back to the front.
08:38 [Music]
09:07 And here you have the finished result. A shape that's stylish, commercial and
09:12 extremely adaptable.
09:14 [Music]