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00:00 Hey guys, it's Todd Kane with Matrix.
00:04 I'm here live at Matrix Destination Orlando.
00:06 We're having a great time.
00:07 I'm telling you, there's so much going on.
00:09 I'll be part of the Modern Man's team tomorrow, but there are classes all day today and even
00:14 more classes on Wednesday.
00:16 Welcome, all you guys out there in Central Orlando.
00:19 Thanks for having us.
00:20 We're having a great time here.
00:21 One of the things we're thinking about today is how to take care of the modern man.
00:25 Who is this guy?
00:26 He's probably, well this is Tony.
00:27 By the way, my mom will say hi to Tony.
00:30 Tony's one of those guys that gets up at 5.30, he grabs a bag, he's got his gym clothes in
00:34 it, he's got his work clothes in it, maybe a pair of jeans and a t-shirt for, I don't
00:38 know, maybe a drink afterwards.
00:39 Who knows, he might have a date.
00:40 Bottom line is he gets home late.
00:42 What he wants to do is make sure he has one or two products that can get him through the
00:45 day so he can remix his hair, change his styles, and a great cut and possibly some color or
00:50 some highlights that make him feel like he's got his own signature style.
00:55 That's what we're going to do today.
00:56 Very quick and easy technique.
00:57 It's called the topper.
00:58 Now, Tony's one of our models for a stage tomorrow.
01:00 He's actually in stage two of the process.
01:02 We've done the topper on him.
01:04 This lighting technique, really what it does is it accentuates what Mother Nature's already
01:08 done.
01:09 It's kind of highlighting the highlights in his hair, but stays off the base so there's
01:14 a lot of dimension in that.
01:16 Stay tuned for the after look.
01:18 We've actually blown him out and styled him earlier, actually yesterday when we finished
01:21 it.
01:22 We're going to show you that after the broadcast.
01:23 Then the additional color that we do on phase two at the live show tomorrow.
01:28 Stick with us on that.
01:30 Let's get started on this.
01:31 Tony, are you a busy guy?
01:32 I am, yeah.
01:33 One of the things he said is, "I want it easy."
01:34 Do you like spending time in the salon?
01:36 No.
01:37 No, it's the worst thing.
01:38 Barber chair, whatever it is.
01:39 It really is the worst thing.
01:40 It's the worst thing.
01:41 When we were talking about color, I told him, "What if we could do something in five or
01:43 ten minutes, and while it's processing, cut the sides and the back, and then boom, rinse
01:49 you, tone you, and you're out?"
01:51 I think it was usually maybe 15, 20 minutes you spend.
01:54 Nice.
01:55 Real fast.
01:56 Real fast.
01:57 We go ahead and go to about 40 minutes, he can take it, especially if it's going to get
01:58 these kind of results.
02:00 Let's start talking about this.
02:01 There are some techniques out there that I took this from.
02:03 Not a lot of original ideas, but it was based on the shoe shine.
02:08 What I found with the shoe shine technique is that it was really just pushing the hair
02:12 around and it didn't look very purposeful.
02:14 It didn't have a lot of dimension to it.
02:17 Here's a little trick.
02:18 We're going to start with Matrix Mat Definer.
02:22 What this does, this allows me to get the hair's attention.
02:25 The first step in this whole thing is actually get the hair to stand up and take note of
02:31 what we're going to do.
02:32 It's kind of like getting Tony's attention, which is kind of hard these days.
02:36 These models really work hard.
02:39 Just get the Mat Definer in the hair.
02:43 It's important to go ahead and get him to gather the pieces because if the hair is laying
02:46 down then I've got to reach in and grab it.
02:49 If I grab it, I'm going to get a smudge mark.
02:51 I don't know if you've ever seen some of these techniques done.
02:52 It looks like a leopard.
02:53 That's not what we want.
02:54 We don't want patchy hair when the hair is soft and smooth.
02:57 We want a very deliberate, a really cool lighting technique that allows you to see the dimension
03:03 in it.
03:04 You can kind of see some of that from earlier.
03:05 If you need a little bit more, go ahead and use a little bit more.
03:09 The idea is I can grab these and I can color them and work my way around the head.
03:14 I'm going to stay above the occipital bone because more than likely I'm going to clean
03:19 that up with a clipper or a shear over comb.
03:20 It's going to be kind of tight.
03:21 What you don't want is any color or lighter pieces that are kind of misplaced.
03:27 Same thing if you were to do a foil on a woman or whatever.
03:29 You don't want to go too below, especially in a short haircut.
03:32 It looks kind of funny.
03:33 We're going to stay on the top of the head with the topper.
03:36 The next step, now what we've used, we've kind of made this up here, but the normal
03:42 formulation was Light Master and 20 volume.
03:45 We actually went with 30 on him just to make it quick.
03:48 We put Bond Ultimate in it and we used our clay additive.
03:51 I'm going to go ahead and get the glove up here.
03:55 It's a pretty simple technique.
03:57 One of the things I like about this, and I think Tony liked about it, he was watching
04:01 the mirror and he thought it was kind of cool.
04:03 It's very engaging for you as a stylist to do.
04:06 You're not just sitting there and putting foils in and you're like, "Oh, okay.
04:09 What's next?"
04:10 It doesn't feel very masculine when you're sitting there with all these colored foils
04:13 in his head.
04:14 Not to mention, I think when we foil, we kind of lose contact with our guest and we need
04:19 to maintain contact with the guy, especially on a first color or decolorizing process.
04:24 Right, Ron?
04:25 Right.
04:26 Okay.
04:27 What I'm going to do is I'm going to use my hand as my palette.
04:30 Don't start with too much, okay?
04:32 Like anything else, don't start with too much until you get the hang of it.
04:36 Just get a little bit on there.
04:39 And then work it in your hand and just kind of start in the back.
04:42 Why do we start in the back?
04:44 Because the front is where the money is.
04:46 If you're not used to a technique and you start in the back, you don't want to practice
04:49 in the front, right?
04:51 That's where you want it to be just right.
04:53 So go ahead and start in the back.
04:54 See these pieces you've already pulled.
04:56 Grab them out.
04:57 Give them a little attention.
04:58 Give them a little love.
04:59 All right?
05:00 And as you do this, you're starting to define the look and you can actually see the color.
05:05 Most of the time, you're actually going to see the hair start to lift already.
05:10 Now this technique works best on level eight and above.
05:13 Why?
05:14 Because if you get down into the brunettes, you have a tendency of exposing more underlying
05:18 pigment and then your toning process can be multi-tonal.
05:22 And most guys don't really want an ombre effect or a graduation of color.
05:26 They just want a pop of color.
05:28 So it works best on level eight and above.
05:31 You can do it on the lower levels if you like.
05:34 Just make sure that you use the right volume of developer to get it to lift quickly and
05:37 that you're kind of clean with these little hand strokes.
05:39 Let me come over here so you can see on this side.
05:43 If you go in and grab big chunks, you get big chunks of color.
05:46 That's not what we want.
05:47 So I can grab it, start using two hands now.
05:50 I'm feeling a little more comfortable with it.
05:52 I get the hang of it.
05:53 I'm starting to work my way towards the front.
05:55 Again, stay in the back until you're really comfortable because the money shot's in the
05:59 front.
06:00 The money shot all matters.
06:06 We think pretty easy.
06:07 I don't know who's on there right now, but I love this technique because as I'm doing
06:11 this and I start working around the front and Tony starts to see it, I can have a conversation
06:16 with him as this is starting to lighten.
06:17 I go, Tony, what do you think?
06:18 How's it looking?
06:19 Right?
06:20 Is this getting too bright?
06:21 Is this about where we want to be?
06:22 And he can kind of give me a little feedback.
06:25 What's nice about that is you're engaging with the guests, right?
06:29 And this is part of his process, his experience.
06:31 He can even say, yeah, we were putting these in my hair and I decided to go a little lighter
06:36 or I thought it was kind of cool to have a little bit more in the front.
06:38 Or I told my stylist to go ahead and give me a big pop of color in the front.
06:41 Because you know what?
06:42 Someone's going to compliment you.
06:43 You've got a lot of compliments already, right?
06:44 I have, yeah.
06:45 Okay.
06:46 Coming to the front.
06:48 Again, grabbing these pieces.
06:54 And if you're actually using lightener, it's a little firmer, right?
06:58 So you can actually see it a little bit better and you'll actually see the hair start to
07:02 lift.
07:03 That's a really important factor in this because you can watch it and if you want to add more,
07:08 you can add more.
07:09 If you want to let it sit a little bit longer, you can let it sit a little longer.
07:12 Remember lightener can fool you.
07:14 It might look like it's light, but that might just be the color of the lightener.
07:17 So you want to leave it on a little bit longer.
07:21 Can I ask you a question?
07:24 Yeah.
07:25 Victoria wants to know, is this step two of the color or how is the first color application
07:30 achieved?
07:31 This was the first step.
07:32 He had a really nice base color anyway.
07:36 And since he was a level eight, if we went in with a pearl, we actually toned it with
07:38 a tan pearl and the tan pearl looked really great on his base color anyway.
07:43 If I wanted to deepen his base, I would have done that first.
07:46 That's a great question because you don't want to try to go back in after this.
07:50 Obviously once you start doing this, it's kind of mayhem.
07:52 It's very, very dude-ish, right?
07:54 Because you're kind of committed, which is kind of the thing they like the most about
07:59 it.
08:00 It's like, yeah, I'm sitting in the chair.
08:01 I look really cool.
08:02 They're paying a lot of attention to me, right?
08:04 I can see what's happening.
08:05 And I'm not sitting here with foils in my hair.
08:06 I'm sitting here looking like a rock star.
08:11 And I can't help but get into it.
08:12 You know, I'm usually moving around.
08:14 There's music playing in the salon.
08:16 You know, the guys are kind of cool.
08:18 They're digging it.
08:19 I want to add a little bit more.
08:20 I can just come in and brush it with that old shoe shine because the hair is up.
08:23 I've already gone as close to the base as I want.
08:25 Again, stay off the base.
08:28 Why?
08:29 Because when you see this and the final result after this, you're going to see how nice this
08:33 works when you start to move the hair.
08:35 And guys love to have a loose feel, kind of look to their hair.
08:39 And this allows them with just a sweep of the hand to open it up and create dimension
08:42 and cool effects.
08:43 Todd, we have another question.
08:44 All right.
08:45 From Brittany.
08:46 What lightener are you using?
08:47 And would this work on the clay lightener so it doesn't dry out?
08:48 Yes, it will.
08:54 If you use a clay lightener and you're worried about it drying out, just bump up the volume
08:57 a little bit.
08:58 You're staying off the base.
08:59 And if you're going in there using Bond Ultimate, then you can push the boundaries a little
09:04 bit.
09:05 We use Light Master and 30 volume on him.
09:06 I did it very quickly.
09:09 I knew what his hair was going to do.
09:10 I took a look at it.
09:11 And to be honest with you, with every model and even in the salon, I did a little test
09:14 ran.
09:15 I took a little bit of product, took it back, pulled it off, watched it, timed it.
09:18 And boom, I knew that was the right one.
09:20 That's a critical step because if you take the time to do a strand test, it can save
09:24 you so much time in the end because you made a wrong choice.
09:28 That was a great question.
09:32 This does have the clay additive in it.
09:33 We did use clay additive because I like the hair to stand up a little bit so I can see
09:38 it and I can make all these little points.
09:41 I hope you guys are liking it out there.
09:46 I wonder, do you think it's complicated?
09:47 Anybody out there think it's complicated or something you can do?
09:50 That's what I'd like to know.
09:57 It is easy and that's the point.
09:59 You can do beautiful things.
10:00 You can do really cool things by not over-complicating.
10:03 I think it's so important not to over-complicate things.
10:06 Simplicity, a great product, a great technique, good time management.
10:11 And you can do so much for all your male clients and your female clients too.
10:15 This isn't just for a gender-specific technique.
10:18 There's a lot of people out there that have different hairstyles.
10:21 There's gender bending.
10:22 There's short.
10:23 There's long.
10:24 There's curly.
10:25 Man, woman or whatever.
10:26 This is a great way for you to show a little bit of artistry, something different.
10:30 Who doesn't like something different?
10:33 It just makes me feel like I'm doing something other than what I normally do.
10:38 And I'm pretty creative in this line.
10:40 I'm all about change.
10:41 I'm all about what's next.
10:43 Some people say, "Hey, this is their base level and this is their low light and this
10:49 is their high light."
10:50 I'm not about that.
10:51 That's what we did last time.
10:52 I mean, I know what I'm working with, but they might have swam more.
10:56 They might have been on a trip.
10:57 They might have changed shampoo or conditioner and their hair changes.
11:01 So that formula, while it's a place to start, is really just a touching step or a touching
11:07 step for the next thing that we do.
11:08 It's always about what's next.
11:10 What's nice about this, since I stayed high here, we chose to keep this longer.
11:15 We didn't go right to the scalp.
11:17 Since I stayed above the occipital bone, if I want to next time, I can come in and clipper
11:21 this.
11:22 I can take him up a little bit higher.
11:23 There's a lot of things I can do with his shape and a balance in the portion of his
11:26 hair and not mess with what we've already done with the highlight technique.
11:30 What a great way to come in and pop in maybe a pastel, use some of the new Colts.
11:34 I mean, a semi-permanent hair color is a great way to introduce something to anybody, male
11:38 or female.
11:39 Once they see this and they feel what you're doing and they feel great about it, their
11:43 confidence rises and they start saying yes.
11:45 That's really what we want, is we want them to go from no to maybe to yes.
11:50 What do you think?
11:51 This is a great start.
11:52 I'm comfortable with it.
11:53 Well, this is really cool because we had this conversation.
11:54 We were talking about that.
11:56 We're going to be on stage tomorrow at Destination on the Modern Man stage.
12:00 Again, we're talking about those men that they get up really early, they take three
12:04 changes of clothes, they may ride a bus, a train, whatever, and they don't get home until
12:08 5 o'clock.
12:09 They want something cool, they want something easy, and they want a couple products that
12:13 make it happen for them.
12:15 Matte Definer is my choice for him.
12:17 What's nice is we started with this when we went in to get the hair's attention.
12:23 The same thing's going to happen when we go to style it.
12:25 You'll see that when we're working through the hair, what we did and how we were able
12:29 to move and open up and manipulate this color with that base shading.
12:35 Since we were pulling irregularly, some of those pieces we left out actually look like
12:39 a low light, but nothing man-made.
12:42 There's nothing worse than saying, "Oh, I went to the salon and got all this contrived."
12:46 This is going to feel like we just enhanced what Mother Nature did.
12:49 I love that about this technique.
12:50 I love that about men's styling.
12:52 Actually, I'm taking a lot of this with me to my female clients too because effortlessness
12:58 -- yeah, that's what I wanted -- easy is important to all of us.
13:03 Which also reminds me of Faison there, short attention span.
13:07 The short attention span or the idea that they just want one product.
13:10 The new Color Care by BiologiRAW is the great color care system for him.
13:15 It's also, I think, the fact that there's no parabens, no sulphates, no silicones.
13:20 I mean, Tony and I were talking.
13:22 He goes to the gym, he has protein shakes, he watches what he eats, he takes vitamins,
13:26 all that kind of stuff.
13:27 He's already in that place where he's living, kind of a raw environment, authentic and wholesome.
13:33 Color Care by BiologiRAW is just a great complement to his regimen.
13:37 What you put on your body and what you put in your body is very important.
13:40 He doesn't heat style too much, but he does use a blow dryer.
13:43 I think one of the cool things about the new acidic milk rinse, it's a back bar item.
13:48 I think it's good because you put your toner on and then once that's shampooed and conditioned
13:54 out you rinse with this.
13:56 It's acidic based so it balances the pH and it seals that cuticle so that his color is
14:01 going to last a little bit longer.
14:03 That toner is going to make a difference.
14:06 I don't know, I'm feeling it.
14:07 You would actually see this go right now and feel where you're at.
14:10 You can look in the mirror, you can step away, you can look in the light.
14:13 I think we went about 20 minutes with him on it because it was done so well.
14:18 I even went through sometimes and just refined with my hand.
14:20 You can come in with a little bit of a comb if you want to.
14:23 Look, it's not one and done.
14:25 Hair color and lightening is a process.
14:27 If you're feeling how this works, then you're not done until you're done.
14:31 I think some people go, "I'm done," and they walk off.
14:35 No, this isn't done until he leaves and he's happy.
14:38 It's not done until we're both happy with it because when he leaves here, this is my
14:41 calling card.
14:42 This is our hair now.
14:43 In fact, I'd love to have this hair right now.
14:46 How ironic, right?
14:48 That's kind of funny because people ask me, "Why would I want you to do my hair?
14:50 You don't have any."
14:51 I just say, "Well, because I focus all on yours."
14:54 I just clip mine off and edge it up so that's the way to go.
14:58 That's the topper.
14:59 We'd rinse him out and then we'd style him.
15:01 A couple things I read with styling products, Matt Definer.
15:06 It's really important.
15:07 You kind of laughed at me when I told you this analogy, but you remembered it.
15:10 When you apply the product, you're going to want to start in the back.
15:13 Remember the analogy of the drink?
15:15 No.
15:16 Honestly, no.
15:17 I don't remember.
15:18 You didn't?
15:19 You know what?
15:20 You're fired.
15:21 Well, I'll refresh your memory.
15:23 I remembered it by saying it's like going to a party.
15:26 You want everybody to have a drink.
15:28 So when you're putting the product in the hair now, do you remember?
15:30 I do remember.
15:31 Okay, so what's the end?
15:32 You have to make sure that everyone has their drink first.
15:35 And then what?
15:36 And then you can sit it, right?
15:37 And then you sit it.
15:38 There we go.
15:39 He's catching on.
15:40 He's pretty and smart, right?
15:41 Tony's good.
15:42 Try it.
15:43 So you get all the product and don't really worry about where it goes because you're kind
15:48 of concentrating on the end result before everybody has a product.
15:52 So work it all the way through and once you get enough, add more if you want, then start
15:56 to style it.
15:57 Starting in the back is important, just like we did with the lightener.
15:59 Start in the back until you get really good at it so that you're not concentrating and
16:03 over concentrating on the area that you really want to be able to adjust and focus and make
16:07 your signature style.
16:09 I will say this.
16:10 I hope you guys will follow me on Instagram and on Facebook at ToddCaneHair.
16:15 I want to thank everybody at Salon Centric.
16:16 You can always follow us on SalonCentric.com and their IG is Salon Centric.
16:23 I really appreciate you guys letting us come and talk.
16:26 I hope you liked it.
16:27 I hope you like the topper.
16:28 Follow us.
16:29 I hope you guys like the topper and hopefully you'll be following us at #MatrixDestination
16:32 because tomorrow we're going to rock the house at the Modern Man.
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