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00:00 What's up guys, Carlos Sugar Skulls here, here with Randy from Hairbrain.
00:13 Thanks for being here Randy, my awesome model.
00:15 Nevin, the whole Hair Healers team, we're going to do a bald fade.
00:20 American Salon, thank you American Salon, you guys rule, super stoked on this.
00:24 We did one side of the head already, just to speed things up and we're going to show
00:28 you guys how to do a bald skin fade on one side and we'll do a hard part and a little
00:33 bit of styling.
00:34 So, thank you guys for tuning in, this is crazy, super stoked.
00:37 If you have any questions, just go ahead and drop them in the comments and I'll forward
00:42 them.
00:43 Yeah, just write questions and they'll ask me if you guys have anything.
00:45 So, we're going to start on this side.
00:46 I'm going to start with my wall magic clip with my lever closed and I always love grabbing
00:53 a little boar bristle brush.
00:58 Take everything you don't need out of the way and clip it if you need to.
01:03 Oh yeah, you guys, this is a loft also, so crazy.
01:11 Facebook Live American Salon right now.
01:14 And you know what, since I know I'm going to do a bald fade, I'm going to use my wall
01:21 detailers first and create first line right off the parietal bone, then off the occipital
01:26 bone.
01:27 So, I'm going to create a first line and I'm going to try to simplify this as much
01:30 as I can for you guys versus complicating it.
01:32 I'm going to pull on the skin a bit and I always have a finger on the face to teeter
01:39 just in case my client moves, sneezes, anything.
01:43 Just gives me a little bit more control.
01:47 And go over spots, don't just do it once, hit it from every angle.
01:51 Anybody with like curly or wavy hair, it might not catch it the first time, so go over whatever
01:56 area you went from every corner.
02:08 And this is a high fade.
02:09 I always tell everybody, I'm like, there's three kinds of fades.
02:12 There's like borderline quarter inch taper fades, there's mid fades which would be like
02:17 right here, I wouldn't go any higher, but I'm going to take his a little bit higher.
02:23 Love you Nina, you're the best.
02:34 I'll see you tomorrow morning.
02:36 I'll be ready at 10.30am, it's okay.
02:47 And I'll start to be the back of it.
02:50 I just feel like this shape on the head balances out the circle, so I like put a little bit
02:54 more of a triangular shape to counterbalance that.
02:58 Now I'll grab my Wahl 5 Star Magic Clips and I'll open the guard and I'll put a line just
03:04 like a little quarter inch above it and I'll flick it out.
03:16 And I'll just work that area and then I'll close my guard a little bit, hit right below
03:21 that and then I'll close it all the way, open it a tiny bit, hit a tiny bit below that,
03:29 close it all the way, erase that line.
03:32 Hey, what's up, how are you?
03:41 Awesome.
03:42 My top rope is so pissed.
03:49 Thank you guys so much for tuning in and checking this out, this is insane.
03:56 Alright, now I put a one guard on and I opened it and I'm going to go all the way to the
04:00 top because I know if I skin this to triple zero or double zero, blended that out, a one
04:06 and a half.
04:07 This is a one closed, when I open the lever it makes it a one and a half and it keeps
04:12 it a little bit tighter.
04:13 Awesome.
04:14 Thanks for tuning in guys, this is sick.
04:17 Awesome, Miami, what up?
04:20 I need to go out to Miami, I need to go see Roddy.
04:37 So now, I keep brushing it, I always brush it, if you don't brush it, hair will fall
04:44 back onto the head and stick to that moisture and sometimes you'll be refading over the
04:49 same thing.
04:50 So now slowly look for that line and I'll slowly start taking it out.
04:59 So this is a half guard on open which makes it a one.
05:09 I'm always ramping out like it's a quarter pipe, you're on a skateboard, always ramp
05:14 out.
05:15 If I round in, there's no reversing that and that just stamps it in really hard.
05:20 And again, use your tools as much as you can, build your dexterity.
05:25 The more you do it, the better you'll get.
05:28 So now we'll start looking at the back of the head and I'll start erasing that.
05:33 I'll go back to closed blade, open it all the way and I'll listen for it.
05:42 Close it a tiny bit, close it a tiny bit more.
05:54 And then once I find that symmetry on that side, I'll balance it out on this side too.
06:06 And move people into the light.
06:07 I have like a very strong LED light right here that I love.
06:11 It's almost like my check my work life.
06:19 And that's, I feel like the strongest thing with learning how to fade is learning your
06:22 lever.
06:23 If anyone thinks you can put a half guard and then a one on, keep the lever closed and
06:27 that'll blend it out.
06:28 It will not.
06:29 Ronnie says, "Carlos, I love you bro."
06:34 Thank you guys.
06:36 Ronnie what up?
06:37 Oh, hell yeah.
06:38 Getting eyes from Montreal, Denmark.
06:39 So sick.
06:40 Crazy.
06:41 Love you guys.
06:42 Thank you guys so much for tuning in.
06:53 And this is my first time ever getting to like demonstrate on American Salon's Facebook.
06:58 So this is crazy.
06:59 They asked me a few days ago and I was just like, "Yeah."
07:04 Like super nervous, but this is awesome.
07:08 All the way up.
07:09 I'll put a one and a half on, open it just in case.
07:13 You see, even when I get to the ridge, I'm still kind of flicking out.
07:19 I don't want to push into that.
07:21 So if I want to go closer, I'll pull that hair away so I don't accidentally hit a long
07:25 piece.
07:30 And go slow if you have to.
07:36 Once you build your dexterity, you almost like get a bounce, like where you know how
07:40 high up you can go.
07:46 Love you Ronnie.
07:47 Thank you.
07:48 I hope you guys come over soon.
07:52 Yeah guys, check it out.
07:53 We have jams every once in a while.
07:55 So we have you guys just come geek out with us.
07:59 Do some hair in person.
08:00 Just hang out.
08:01 Good vibes.
08:02 All right.
08:03 Let's look at the back.
08:04 Use your mirror.
08:05 Your mirror is not for you.
08:06 It's not for your client.
08:07 It's to give you that six feet of distance to see your haircut.
08:08 And right there, I can see right where it's at.
08:09 So I'll throw a half guard on.
08:10 Open it.
08:11 Close it a little bit until I hear it.
08:30 There it is.
08:37 And again, walk around or just even if you're watching TV, hold your clippers.
08:42 Just hold them.
08:43 Once you do it long enough and it feels like it's part of your hand, that's when you'll
08:46 get more control.
08:47 Okay.
08:48 So we have our first question.
08:49 What machines are you using?
08:50 And this is from Martin.
08:53 Maureen, I am using the Wahl Magic Clip Cordless.
08:57 These are the lightest machines.
08:58 I'm a smaller dude.
08:59 So the lighter my tool, the more control I have with it.
09:03 They have finally made like a good.
09:06 And always push your client's head when you need to.
09:21 You can see so much different from here to here.
09:33 Amazon.
09:35 Have you seen the commercial where the old man like they drop off like his package like
09:52 on like a farm?
09:53 You're like, what if they dropped it off in downtown?
09:54 You're like, I got to go find my package.
09:55 You're like, your package has been delivered.
09:56 Okay, we have another question.
09:57 What is the difference between an open and closed machine?
09:58 This is from Jesse Silverman.
10:05 Closed blade cuts closer.
10:07 That's the teeth.
10:08 So even between your haircut, start brushing it.
10:12 Get a little like a synthetic bristle brush and always scrape it in between your haircuts.
10:18 Closed blade means the teeth are closer together like that.
10:23 That's as close as they go.
10:24 And then this is open.
10:25 So that just gives you that little difference gap.
10:29 Yeah.
10:30 Boom.
10:31 See how the teeth move away?
10:34 So that gives me that half guard room.
10:37 Thanks for the question.
10:42 And I just do a tiny bit of etching with a blade, but I always pull the skin.
10:54 And I bring this down.
10:55 I never cut into here because that's going to make his widow's peak look deeper back.
11:00 But if I bring this part down, it creates less contrast.
11:02 So it doesn't look so deep.
11:14 And everything's about symmetry and creating shapes.
11:31 You have to pull on the skin.
11:32 If you don't pull on the skin, the skin folds.
11:34 That's how you nick somebody.
11:35 So as long as the skin doesn't fold, you're good.
11:42 All right, so we're going to put in a hard part.
11:50 Use your chair, bring them down.
11:53 Don't try to like use your body positioning all crazy.
11:56 So I'll separate what I need to.
12:08 I'll always use my trimmer first.
12:12 I'll pull the hair away that I don't want.
12:16 And I push down and I kind of slide a little bit to the side.
12:25 And make it as small as you can with the trimmers, especially if you're going to use a blade
12:28 because you can always etch it out a little bit more after.
12:39 Frank Ryland says thanks.
12:41 Awesome, Frank.
12:42 Glad you guys are checking this out.
12:43 I hope you guys learned some stuff.
12:44 If you guys have any questions, anything about this cut, ask me and I'll give you guys, I'll
12:50 try to simplify it as easy as I can.
12:54 Again, I just pull on the hair that I don't want and I just listen for it too.
13:05 And it's not about creating a new shape.
13:06 I'm just trying to get rid of the stubble in a sense.
13:11 Just to define the line, just to give it that good little contrast.
13:36 You guys can ask the hair heathens questions too.
13:38 They're just sitting over there all quiet.
13:40 Quiet, very quiet.
13:42 You guys can also like to shout out questions.
13:48 They're good at that.
13:49 Like whenever we do classes together.
13:50 Frank had a question.
13:51 He was asking what's the best blade for that type of thing.
13:54 You know what dude, I get so many and I always try new ones out whenever like a different
13:58 barber refers them.
13:59 Right now, what have I been using?
14:02 Dorco.
14:03 Dorco ones are some of my favorites.
14:08 Somebody gave me these little sharp ones recently at a show.
14:12 But I actually used them yesterday and they're actually pretty cool.
14:15 Those are pre-cut and for those of you that don't know how these blades work, let me show
14:20 you guys real quick.
14:21 This is actually kind of cool because I didn't know when I started barbering school.
14:24 I had no idea.
14:25 I was like how is this going to go in here.
14:28 Seems like such a cheesy thing.
14:31 So it's half the blade.
14:32 And then when you throw them away, you put them in a special little dispenser.
14:36 Keeps all the blades together.
14:38 Take a new blade out.
14:39 Do you do this in front of your clients so they know?
14:43 Always.
14:44 Yeah.
14:45 If you did nick anybody, they would have no worries.
14:46 Yeah, exactly.
14:47 Every client.
14:48 And then I snap it in half.
14:50 And I always, I even tell Nevin like, my apprentice Nevin, he always knows not to put it in just
14:55 so my client can see a new blade every time.
15:01 So then I cracked it in half.
15:07 Boom.
15:09 New blade.
15:20 And every single client gets a new blade.
15:23 When it's scraping against the skin, you always have to.
15:44 I'll bring everything in the middle.
15:46 I already kind of pre cut his hair.
15:47 He's trying to grow it out.
15:49 So I'll bring everything in the middle to not take any length off.
15:52 And I just dust it.
15:53 I even tell everybody, I'm like, don't tell me you want to trim.
15:55 Just tell me you want me to dust your ends.
15:57 Same tension from longest to shortest.
16:01 And I'll just dust it.
16:03 And I can point cut that out too if I want to.
16:05 And I make sure if I grip it same direction, there it is.
16:14 And then the only part that I bring straight out from the head is just right in the front
16:18 to connect this just because the head dips down right here.
16:21 So I want, I always want to go from longest to shortest, but I'll pull it straight out
16:25 from the head a tiny bit and just dust the ends.
16:29 That's it.
16:31 Most guys hair only grows half an inch to an inch a month.
16:35 So if guys are coming to see me every four weeks, I don't need to cut two inches off
16:38 their hair or we're never going to grow it long.
16:41 It's just never going to get there.
16:43 And I can bring it down.
16:44 Same tension.
16:45 If you're going to use soft tension, use soft tension all the way through.
16:48 Use hard tension, hard tension.
16:51 Bring it down.
16:53 Check it.
17:10 And again, what I'm showing you guys today is a lot of wearable cuts.
17:13 Like everything I do, everything I post, none of it's models.
17:17 Everybody's a paying client.
17:18 I used to have a little saying where I'd be like, I don't do celebrity hair.
17:21 I make celebrities out of my friends and clients, which I loved and so did my clients.
17:25 I built such a core foundation that I didn't have to hustle work where work just kind of
17:29 came to me and then it just, it gave me the freedom to choose jobs and do different stuff.
17:35 And now I'm trying to travel more and I don't take any clientele, but my only rule for new
17:40 clients is don't send me your not great friends.
17:44 I say it differently.
17:45 I'm doing my best to watch my mouth right now.
17:48 Courtney, Gordon, hi guys.
17:49 Love you guys.
17:50 But if I have to hang out with you for an hour and a half, I just want good energy.
18:02 Like anybody knows that if you're trying to make somebody look awesome, you want somebody
18:06 that's just super chill.
18:08 And you guys know how draining my job is.
18:12 You spend an hour with somebody like that takes your energy.
18:16 Right to the rig and softening this out.
18:22 It's already blending.
18:25 But then I just cross check and I always go to my longest blade.
18:32 My one I open is the one that have now listen for it again.
18:45 Now closing on the lower way.
18:58 Pull that away.
19:12 And you guys, when I first got into hair school, I want to be able to do it all.
19:29 And I tell you, I'm like, focus on your strengths, triple down on your strengths, take something
19:33 you really enjoy doing.
19:35 Like I'm still decently good at women's hair, but men's hair is my strength.
19:39 So I just focused on that, even at times when I still feel like I miss girls hair once in
19:44 a while.
19:45 But pick your specialty.
19:46 There's always somebody that's like a better bridal, braider, colorist, men's cutter, cutting
19:52 women's hair and cutting men's hair and doing fades.
19:55 It's like painting with a brush and then doing the same painting with spray cans.
19:59 Like it's that different of tools you're using to create whatever silhouette or shape you're
20:05 trying to do.
20:13 And with fading, it's just, you just have to do a ton of it just to really understand
20:17 it.
20:18 Yes, the color of his hair definitely plays into its role into it.
20:33 But that's why you set your guidelines, because if you erase your guidelines too early, you
20:37 have no idea where you're at.
20:43 We're going to kind of do a high and tight anyways on him.
20:45 But again, even I picked this up from A-Rod over at Elegance, and he used to tell me,
20:52 I took this class from him like a few years ago.
20:54 And I remember he said, if you ever forget, you go to your longest guard that you use
20:59 right there, you open it.
21:01 Now that's a one and a half too, so you start back from the top.
21:04 You go back to the top and that way you work your way back down.
21:07 So here's my guideline and here's my guideline.
21:10 I can either read triple zero amount or redo the one and a half.
21:13 Okay, so we have a question.
21:16 Bev is asking if you could go over again what you used at the bottom.
21:23 At the bottom, I started with a wall detailer.
21:27 Skin this.
21:28 I'll go over it just to keep it super clean.
21:33 And when I make that first line, the only thing that gets rid of that first line is
21:37 the wall magic clip.
21:39 If you use an Andis Master, it won't get that first line out.
21:43 So you have to like know which tools get which lines out, especially if you modify your tools.
21:50 Modifying your tools is just taking your blades apart and putting them closer together, which
21:53 I don't recommend.
21:54 I like keeping everything as stock as I can, but from time to time, like we do have a couple
21:58 clippers that are modified.
22:00 But that if you poke somebody direct on, you could cut them.
22:04 So I always tell everyone, like don't even mess with that.
22:07 Even if you do the sickest haircut and one little dot of blood comes out, like you're
22:11 already messed up.
22:12 Huh, Graham?
22:13 You're not gonna tell me.
22:14 You're like, "Has it happened?"
22:15 Nope, you can talk too.
22:16 You're super good right now.
22:17 It's so weird to see Graham like this.
22:18 Quiet.
22:23 He did it great at the class.
22:24 Yeah.
22:25 It's weird when it's all of us being quiet in the room.
22:26 I'm just like, I'm like, this is so weird.
22:27 I'm not very good at quiet.
22:28 Yeah, I'm not either.
22:29 No, we were all in the elevator and I was just like, here we go.
22:30 It's about to get loud.
22:31 And I love it when you guys are quiet.
22:32 I love it when you guys are quiet.
22:33 I love it when you guys are quiet.
22:34 I love it when you guys are quiet.
22:35 I love it when you guys are quiet.
22:36 I love it when you guys are quiet.
22:37 I love it when you guys are quiet.
22:38 I love it when you guys are quiet.
22:39 I love it when you guys are quiet.
22:40 I love it when you guys are quiet.
22:41 I love it when you guys are quiet.
22:47 And I love turning the chair as I do it just to know my balance.
22:51 Like if I know the symmetry on that side is that, I'll go all the way through it.
23:04 So when you're doing a ball shake, do you set your guide from the bottom or do you start
23:05 working your way down?
23:06 Depending on how long his hair is.
23:07 If I'm working my shortest guide, then I'll take the length off first and then I'll do
23:10 my shortest.
23:13 But if it's already like, even with his, I was able to start my zero and see it.
23:18 I feel like that makes me nervous.
23:21 Of course.
23:22 Yeah.
23:23 Cause you don't want to keep pushing your line up.
23:24 Exactly.
23:25 Stacey Coppola is asking, I'm sorry, Cheryl.
23:26 Hi Cheryl.
23:27 Will you use clipper over comb to blend?
23:32 No, not on something this short.
23:34 The only part I would use clipper over comb would be around the ridge at the top.
23:39 Like I would just comb his hair to the side.
23:50 Clipper over comb is the same thing as scissor over comb in a sense.
23:54 And then again, if you could just tell us what clipper that was.
23:58 Yep.
23:59 We'll use it right now to do clipper over comb.
24:00 It's the wall magic clip cordless.
24:03 It's the lightest one.
24:04 It cuts the best.
24:05 I study all my favorite barber friends and whatever they tell me to get.
24:08 That's what I get.
24:10 So I'll take this comb.
24:11 It's almost like a half guard.
24:12 And if you guys notice, they make these clipper over combs the same size of the blade, almost
24:17 as if you were to take a YS part comb and take your shear, it's almost the same size
24:23 as the shear.
24:24 So it's just to protect you and give you that.
24:26 So you don't accidentally go over and hit it.
24:29 So I'll put that there.
24:36 I know I saw Nevin go.
24:38 I was like, that was new.
24:44 Nevin knows like my speech is verbatim.
24:47 And then I'll go, I'll ramp it straight up.
24:51 If I tuck it all the way in, I cut that off.
24:53 That's just going to stamp it in.
24:54 But I always tell everybody, I love building more of like a square shape right in the front
25:00 for any guy just to make it strong.
25:02 And if he needs to push it into the side in the back, that works fine.
25:06 Even almost with my hair, the front always, you want it to just be as expanded as you
25:10 can.
25:11 Every guy likes a bigger top and a smaller bottom versus that pineapple shape where it's
25:16 just cuts all the way to the top.
25:18 And then he just has like a little sprout of hair at the top.
25:22 Any tips on getting the, like an uneven head shape to get rid of the shadowing?
25:28 Pulling the skin, pulling the skin always.
25:30 Like even if you get stuck on a fade part, pull it, pull it like that and dig it out.
25:35 If the head sinks in, you can pull it out of that thing and get anything.
25:38 Just right when I did that, you guys can see I left that little spot right there.
25:42 So I'll put on my half, I'll open it.
25:50 Thank you guys.
25:51 You guys rule.
25:52 Thank you so much for watching.
25:53 We're super stoked.
25:53 Let's see how that looks.
25:54 Let's see how that looks.
26:04 Let's see how that looks.
26:14 And again, right now I'm not talking about it.
26:42 And that's the hardest thing when you watch videos on fading is that we're constantly
26:46 using our level.
26:48 We're constantly opening and closing.
26:52 It just becomes habitual in a sense.
26:54 So when you say you're listening for it, you know that you're, that you've got it when
27:08 it stops making the.
27:11 Like right now it's not cutting anything.
27:22 You'll almost even feel it.
27:23 Thank you guys.
27:27 This is a wall magic clipper.
27:28 I missed what you said.
27:33 Wall magic cordless.
27:34 Just make sure you type in the cordless.
27:36 It's the only wall.
27:37 Type in wall magic cordless, you'll find this one and it's the lightest machine.
27:43 So to me, since I'm smaller, if I have to use the Oster 76, I feel like I have to use
27:48 two hands to just keep that line straight where this, look at your hand, feel how light
27:53 that is.
27:54 Feels like a toy.
27:55 Doesn't even feel like it works like the rest of them.
27:58 But on cordless, always keep it back.
28:00 We have another one charging.
28:01 So if this ever dies, this will last me about three haircuts.
28:06 This will last me about five hours.
28:07 And throughout the day we'll switch them.
28:09 But always keep it back if you have cordless.
28:21 And once I set a certain guide, I'll just round the head.
28:25 In real time, how long would it take you to do a men's haircut?
28:29 I booked all my clients 90 minutes.
28:31 If we weren't to talk, I didn't have to explain anything and we were like in a race, I could
28:35 do it in like 20 to 30 minutes.
28:38 But I'm all about the experience with cutting hair.
28:40 Like I told you, I'm like, if I drive 40 minutes to come see you, even if you give me the best
28:44 fade I've ever had, I don't want it done in 10 minutes.
28:47 If I came to you, it's because it was you.
28:49 I can fade my own hair myself in my bathroom, but I clearly drove out to come see you.
28:54 It's spending that time too.
28:55 Nobody wants to be rushed.
28:57 Nobody wants to feel rushed.
28:58 It's just the weirdest feeling.
29:00 So I like spending that time.
29:01 Even though 90 minutes is way over the top, I created something that all my clients love
29:06 and all my clients continue to come back.
29:08 I still don't take new clients.
29:09 - You charge more for the-
29:10 - Yes, definitely.
29:11 Like I charge 120 a haircut, but I book them for the whole time.
29:20 And everybody gets photographed every time.
29:23 I've never done a haircut, maybe a couple on models, but if it's a paying client, every
29:27 paying client walks out with their photos too.
29:32 That's just the thing.
29:33 It's just almost like how women go to the salon to feel beautiful and feel great.
29:36 I just make dudes try to feel like badass.
29:38 Can't say badass, she said no, but yeah.
29:49 And even we're going to do some heat and tension, wrapping and styling in a second.
29:53 Let me do a little bit of clip over, a little bit more clip over comb.
29:57 How are we doing on time guys?
29:58 - You're at a half time.
29:59 - Yeah.
30:00 - It's 1.30.
30:01 - It's 1.30?
30:02 That's crazy how quick that went by.
30:03 All right guys, we'll leave it at around here.
30:04 If you guys have any questions, feel free.
30:05 We'll give you guys a little tour of the loft too.
30:06 Bring them up.
30:07 I could totally slick them down with like gel or pomade or like a water-based pomade,
30:08 but I'm going to leave it at around here.
30:09 I'm going to leave it at around here.
30:10 I'm going to leave it at around here.
30:11 I'm going to leave it at around here.
30:12 I'm going to leave it at around here.
30:13 I'm going to leave it at around here.
30:14 I'm going to leave it at around here.
30:15 I'm going to leave it at around here.
30:39 I'm going to leave it at around here.
30:58 (applause)