La historia del surf es un relato vibrante que abarca siglos de tradición y evolución. Desde sus orígenes en las antiguas culturas polinesias, donde el surf no solo era un deporte, sino una expresión cultural, hasta su transformación en un fenómeno global, este viaje ha sido marcado por pasiones, innovaciones y la inquebrantable conexión entre los surfistas y el océano. A través de los años, cada generación de surfistas ha pasado el testigo a la siguiente, manteniendo viva la esencia de este arte.
En el siglo XX, el surf comenzó a popularizarse en California y Hawái, dando lugar a una nueva era de competiciones y eventos icónicos. Con la introducción de tablas de surf más ligeras y maniobrables, los surfistas empezaron a explorar nuevas técnicas y estilos, elevando el deporte a nuevas alturas. Hoy en día, el surf no solo es una práctica recreativa, sino que ha encontrado su lugar en los Juegos Olímpicos, representando la culminación de su viaje a través de la historia.
Los relatos de pioneros como Duke Kahanamoku y sus contemporáneos son testimonios de cómo la pasión y el compromiso han permitido la supervivencia y la reinvención del surf. Al entender su historia, no solo apreciamos el deporte en sí, sino también la rica cultura que lo rodea. Sumérgete en esta emocionante travesía y descubre cómo el surf ha logrado trascender generaciones y continentes, convirtiéndose en un símbolo de libertad y conexión con la naturaleza.
**Hashtags:** #HistoriaDelSurf, #SurfEnLosJuegosOlímpicos, #CulturaSurf
**Keywords:** historia del surf, surf polinesio, evolución del surf, surf en los Juegos Olímpicos, deportes acuáticos, cultura del surf, surfistas pioneros, historia del deporte, tablas de surf, competiciones de surf.
En el siglo XX, el surf comenzó a popularizarse en California y Hawái, dando lugar a una nueva era de competiciones y eventos icónicos. Con la introducción de tablas de surf más ligeras y maniobrables, los surfistas empezaron a explorar nuevas técnicas y estilos, elevando el deporte a nuevas alturas. Hoy en día, el surf no solo es una práctica recreativa, sino que ha encontrado su lugar en los Juegos Olímpicos, representando la culminación de su viaje a través de la historia.
Los relatos de pioneros como Duke Kahanamoku y sus contemporáneos son testimonios de cómo la pasión y el compromiso han permitido la supervivencia y la reinvención del surf. Al entender su historia, no solo apreciamos el deporte en sí, sino también la rica cultura que lo rodea. Sumérgete en esta emocionante travesía y descubre cómo el surf ha logrado trascender generaciones y continentes, convirtiéndose en un símbolo de libertad y conexión con la naturaleza.
**Hashtags:** #HistoriaDelSurf, #SurfEnLosJuegosOlímpicos, #CulturaSurf
**Keywords:** historia del surf, surf polinesio, evolución del surf, surf en los Juegos Olímpicos, deportes acuáticos, cultura del surf, surfistas pioneros, historia del deporte, tablas de surf, competiciones de surf.
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00:00Surfing is one of the few sports that is much more than a game, it is the expression of a
00:27culture, that of the people of the water, the Polynesians. It is the art of sliding on the
00:34waves in the heart of the folds of the world and its ancestral heritage. Surfing was about
00:40to disappear about a century ago. Its resurrection is the work of an American native, of a handful
00:48of fugitive young men, businessmen and rebellious young men from all over the world.
00:56Known today by millions of fans, surfing has built its mythology on the foundations
01:02of feats, the search for freedom and the conquest of wild spaces. A global epic told
01:09by those who discovered it and those who keep it alive on all the waves of the planet.
01:14Surf, the sacred fire.
01:26Welcome to the paradise of surfing. In Tahiti, the wave of Teahupo is one of the most beautiful
01:42in the world. It is a mythical wave. It is like a wild animal, a tiger. It is a wave
02:04that breaks in the reef, where there is only one meter deep. You know that the thing is
02:12serious, Teahupo can scare you. The wave is pushed by all the ocean mass, which unfolds
02:21powerfully. It is an impressive wave. When you get there, you have to be very humble,
02:29because you never know what can happen. Bahine Fierro and Kauli Bast are among the best
02:38surfers in the world. Born in Polynesia, they have been surfing in Teahupo since they were
02:43teenagers. There are very few people on the planet who know how to tackle it. You have
02:50to wait a long time, be patient. Everyone wants their wave, and then there is the priority
02:56wave . So it is a mutual respect that we all have. And suddenly the first wave arrives,
03:06the wave that you were waiting for. When you start rowing, you have to do it
03:16with force. And all you see is the whole ocean receding. And the coral waiting for you.
03:26You have the feeling that your center of gravity is moving a little, as if it were
03:31twisted. You go down and down, thinking you can't fall. And then, when you get into
03:42the tube, you rise again. And you are trapped inside a roller. The ocean sways
03:49over you, and you have the impression that time is stopping. You don't move for a few
03:54seconds, and suddenly ... you come out with a blow that pushes you from behind. And that's
04:03the best feeling of all. You know it's a good wave when you come out with the blow.
04:11They are very intense moments that you can only experience if you are there. I think
04:15Teahupo is also very spiritual. The wild world of the ocean is the universe of the only
04:26town in the world that knows how to walk on water, the Polynesian people. And to understand
04:34the surf, you have to understand its beauty, its depth, and its spirituality. My family
04:46taught me the art of traditional wooden boards. It's a new way of reviving the spirit of
05:03the tree.
05:10With more than 70 years, Tom Poaco Stone is one of the guardians of the ancestral culture,
05:16passed down by surfers from all over the world.
05:35All the boards that are used today originate from the boards that Mish Kupuno designed.
05:46My ancestors are the origin of all this. When we left the continent, Southeast Asia, we
06:00renounced the land, and the ocean became our home.
06:07The Polynesians left the south of China 6,000 years ago in huge piraguas and arrived in Indonesia
06:12and the Philippines when the pharaohs of Egypt built their first pyramids. They landed in
06:20Tahiti during the fall of the Roman Empire. They discovered Hawaii at the birth of Islam.
06:29And Easter Island in the time of Charlemagne. And New Zealand in the time of the Crusades.
06:37Navigation became a key element in the construction of our society. We come from the sea, we are
06:45a people of the liquid continent, as they call us today. That is why we learned to dominate
06:50the ocean before we could dominate the earth. We were always on the move, always. We had
06:58to discover lands and occupy them, we had to survive.
07:03The waves are the result of the liquid waves that cross the Great Blue. In the Pacific,
07:09these waves sculpted by the wind travel thousands of kilometers. Those who know how to dominate
07:18the waves and the winds discover paths that advance alone and connect the lands together.
07:28We are a single people, connected by the sea.
07:33Our migration took us to many different islands across the oceans, and surfing became an extension
07:41of that migration. Reading the movements of the water is a form of art. It's a very complex
07:55thing. It's a dance.
08:08I believe that the style of each surfer tells our story. And in my case, I express where
08:18I come from, who I am. People often tell me that I dance too much on the wave. And that
08:26comes from our culture. We are also dancers. It's personal, and everyone has their own
08:33style of surfing.
08:36The violence of the waves on one side and the smoothness of the slide on the other. The union
08:42of opposites that characterizes surfing is magnified by what Polynesians call the mana.
08:50The sacred fire, the energy that impregnates everything that exists.
08:56The mana is an energy in a spiritual part that is present in all parts of Polynesia.
09:02We say that we have the mana, but above all we say that we transmit it.
09:09This force is transmitted through the jaka, a dance and a collective language that unites
09:16the peoples of the water to express love, war, strength, courage, wisdom, or sharing.
09:27This ancient culture, in which surfing played a central role, will be extinguished with
09:41the first contact with the Europeans at the end of the 18th century. Explorers are astonished
09:48at the show of surfing. Passed the fascination in the heart of this Eden, the first missionaries
09:56arrive. Protestants, Catholics or Anglicans, the missionaries are in charge of converting
10:03the people of the water to the European moral order. The nakedness is put to an end. A single
10:09God.
10:10The missionaries did not see with good eyes to do things just for pleasure. You had to
10:16be productive, cultivate the land and not waste time playing with the waves. So they
10:22put people to work in sugar cane plantations. They had to earn their daily wage, go where
10:29they were told and meet schedules.
10:35In a record time, European diseases decimate the Polynesians. Tahiti goes from 100,000
10:41to 6,000 inhabitants in less than a century. The culture of the peoples of the water is
10:47swallowed up by Western civilization. At the end of the 19th century, surfing disappears
10:53from almost all the Polynesian islands.
11:12What is the mystery for which surfing becomes a world phenomenon a century later? In addition
11:19to being a leisure activity for the masses, a lifestyle and a high-level sport is also
11:28a business. What has happened? How have the Polynesians managed to recover their culture
11:36and share it with the whole world?
11:42The answer is here, in the Hawaiian archipelago, in a stretch of the beach of Waikiki. The Polynesians
11:54have erected a statue of the man who changed the course of history. Duke Kahanomoku, alias
12:01the Duke, was born in 1890 and grew up in Hawaii when the island was still a kingdom. He was
12:07one of the last people to know surfing as it had been practiced for thousands of years.
12:14Duke Kahanomoku was a man of the sea. He grew up in Waikiki. From a very young age, he spent
12:21a lot of time in the water learning to row a canoe, to fish, to surf. He loved Waikiki
12:28and he loved to be at sea. Duke is 16 years old when, in 1906, Thomas Edison disembarks
12:38with one of the first cameras in Hawaii, recently annexed by the United States. Edison discovers
12:44the fabulous beach of Waikiki and films a few young people riding the waves. Duke and
12:50his gang are the last people on the planet who know how to surf.
13:00History takes a crucial turn in 1911, during a local swimming competition organized by
13:06white settlers who train in private clubs. Duke, who has become an American since
13:12the annexation, dares to break the racist prejudices of whites and signs up.
13:17The Polynesians call it the force of the maná. Before the general astonishment, Duke beats
13:23the world record of 100 free meters in more than 4 seconds. At the same time, Duke Kahanomoku
13:32becomes the first American Olympic champion in swimming, the first Polynesian pride
13:37of modern times. Duke travels the world with his board and becomes the attraction
13:43of many. Australia, New Zealand and the west coast of the United States made him a hero.
13:53When he returns to the island, he is discovered as an advertising icon. He has turned surfing
13:58into the star product of his homeland.
14:00People were excited to meet him. Greeting Duke Kahanomoku and being able to say later
14:10that you had shook his hand was something that people boasted about. He quickly became
14:16a kind of ambassador and thanks to him the practice of surfing spread.
14:24Thanks to Duke Kahanomoku, Hawaii attracts more and more tourists. And the beach of Waikiki
14:30becomes the symbol of the surf renaissance. But the man who will convert the United States
14:39to surf comes from the interior of the country. In the 1920s, Tom Blake, a single young man,
14:47lives thousands of kilometers from the sea and a surfboard.
14:54Tom Blake is an orphan and has had a somewhat chaotic childhood. He meets Duke Kahanomoku
15:01in a Detroit movie in Michigan. Duke approaches and shakes his hand.
15:08Tom Blake is captivated by Duke Kahanomoku. Shortly after, he moves to Hawaii and self-taught
15:15deepens the roots of Polynesian culture.
15:20He moves to Waikiki and Duke takes him under his protection. Tom Blake idolizes Duke.
15:28Tom Blake will dedicate his life to transmitting the Polynesian maná to the whites. He is dedicated to the design
15:34of surfboards. He hollows them out to make them lighter and gives them different shapes and sizes.
15:41Later, after studying the waves, he came up with the idea of installing a keel on the back of the board.
15:46It is a revolution. Now surfers will be able to cling to the wave
15:51and stand while they slide along the wall. Finally, in 1935, Tom Blake
15:58writes one of the most important books in the history of surf, Hawaiian Surfboard.
16:29The oral teaching of Duke is now available to everyone.
16:35Duke Kahanomoku and Tom Blake are the bearers of the sacred fire.
16:42In the early 1950s, the surf fever swept across the Californian coast.
16:48The ancestral Polynesian sport attracts hundreds of young people in total disagreement with the American way of life.
16:54Tribes are created out of affinity in communities that live on the beaches of Hawaii.
17:00The Polynesian maná is a symbol of the Polynesian spirit.
17:06The Polynesian maná is a symbol of the Polynesian spirit.
17:12The Polynesian maná is a symbol of the Polynesian spirit.
17:18The Polynesian maná is a symbol of the Polynesian spirit.
17:24You had to go down a hill to get to the beach.
17:30In that area, they called it the pit.
17:36Nobody told you what you had to do.
17:42Surfing was not popular at the time. Only small tribes practiced it.
17:48All they lived for was surf. It was their way of expressing themselves.
17:53It was their way of life.
18:00They were a crazy group. They didn't do anything.
18:05They didn't work.
18:08It was a mess. How did they make a living?
18:13Nobody knows. They survived.
18:20Among the rebels, there was a free surfer, proud of it.
18:26Mickey Dora.
18:31Mickey Dora's revolution is summed up in three words.
18:36Lifestyle.
18:39On Malibu beach, he invented the lifestyle of the wanderer.
18:44An image that would accompany surfers for decades.
18:49In one of the few recordings of his voice, Mickey Dora portrays himself like this.
18:54The waves are my escape. My whole life.
18:59I get into the water, I get into the sea, I throw myself, I make my turn on the back of the board,
19:04and I go to the end of the wave as if my life depended on it.
19:09That's the only thing that matters.
19:12I leave behind the shit, the parents who scream, the teachers, the police, the priests, the politicians,
19:17and I head-butt the rocks.
19:22Mickey was a big shot. He had a reputation as a rebel.
19:27He was an anti-system. He was against everything, but he was a cool guy.
19:32When you got into the water with him, he'd say,
19:35Come on, man! And then he'd put himself behind you and push you.
19:40On the beach, everyone called him the cat.
19:45He surfed like a cat.
19:50Fatally, Mickey Dora sacrifices the Polynesian tradition by leaving the wooden boards for the synthetic ones.
19:55Polyurethane foam blocks of a few pounds.
20:01Immediately, the slide becomes lighter, faster, and more acrobatic.
20:06Everyone wants to imitate Dora.
20:09The board she designs becomes the best-selling in the world.
20:13That's how, in the mid-50s, surfing comes out of the marginality
20:17to become one of the incarnations of youth emancipation.
20:22There's Marlon Brando's motorcycle, James Dean's car,
20:27Elvis Presley's Hawaiian shirt,
20:31and Gidget's surfboard.
20:34All I wanted to do was surf. That was all.
20:39Surf is no longer just rebellion.
20:42Thanks to Hollywood, it becomes synonymous with vacation on the beach and sunsets.
20:49The popular surf has just been born.
20:54It arrives in Europe at the end of the 50s and then infects all generations.
21:09I was nine years old and I was on vacation with my family in Britain.
21:15I looked at a little bodyboard.
21:19I was so excited that my mother ended up buying it for me.
21:23And I spent the next ten days surfing on that board
21:28until my belly was covered in scratches.
21:32Every day I came home with blue lips.
21:38I started surfing when I was about 10 or 11 years old.
21:43We went on weekends and on vacation.
21:46It was a little bubble of total freedom.
21:49Having fun, spending time at sea,
21:52a pure love for fresh water, for the waves.
21:56And above all, I didn't want to disconnect from leisure, pleasure,
22:00absolute freedom, sharing, and all that.
22:05That was surfing for me.
22:14In the mid-60s, the few hundred marginal surfers
22:18have become millions of practitioners.
22:21Counterculture and its libertarian rites
22:23are overshadowed by the mass of summer placids.
22:29It's too much for the rebels, and there's only one solution.
22:34Flee.
22:40Three Californians embark on a camera expedition
22:43in search of a new Eden of unexplored beaches and waves
22:46in the Southern Hemisphere.
22:48Their film, The Endless Summer,
22:51sets the foundations for the surfer's journey.
22:55It was a cold winter morning in November
22:57when Mike and Robert were ready for the first stage
23:00of their summer trip around the world.
23:04It was a perfect day.
23:17You can't know if a wave is good until you ride it.
23:20In the first five seconds of his first slide,
23:23Mike knew that he had finally found the perfect wave.
23:35His film popularizes the myth of the backpacker.
23:38Travelling around the world as a nomad.
23:41A mattress on the back of the van,
23:43and the boards on the ceiling,
23:45to live on deserted beaches and slide on unexplored waves
23:49according to the seasons, winds and tides.
23:53The surf trip accompanies the hippie wave to the end of the world.
23:57The beach in Kuta, Bali,
23:59becomes for surfers what Kathmandu, Nepal,
24:02is for backpackers.
24:04A great psychedelic vibration.
24:10Mike Hinson, faithful to himself,
24:12when he rides The Endless Summer,
24:14does it like all his generation, without concessions.
24:19We smoked a lot of marijuana.
24:22We drank LSD.
24:25We wanted to turn the whole world into LSD.
24:28Those were good old days.
24:30We could do a lot of things without risking anything.
24:37We created a lifestyle without working.
24:41We were a kind of self-employed people.
24:45I've been in and out of jail several times.
24:49But I've never done anything really bad.
24:55It was just our lifestyle.
25:01But there's something stronger than the high of the drug,
25:05the adrenaline over the monstrous waves.
25:08Playing with death can also be fun.
25:12It all starts here, in the North Shore,
25:15a coastal area in the northern part of the Hawaiian archipelago,
25:19where from October to March,
25:21the storms that cross the Pacific towards Alaska
25:24cause violent waves and avalanches in the open sea.
25:31There, led by Greg Knoll,
25:33the most daring of the Californian surfers,
25:36these pioneers invented the giant wave surf.
26:00Duke, it's a real honor to be here on your island
26:03for this surfing championship.
26:05I'm glad you came to Hawaii, Bruce.
26:08Named after his godfather, Duke Kahanamoku,
26:11the North Shore becomes the new bastion of the American surfers
26:15and the place of the first major competition in honor of Duke.
26:22The giant wave surf opens a new path
26:25where each surfer must face their fear.
26:30I become a hunter when I'm on the starting line.
26:34I see the waves coming
26:36and suddenly I become a hunter,
26:41choosing the wave that interests me the most.
26:50It requires a perfect technique,
26:52although from the outside you have the impression that it is easy.
26:55It's like a postcard picture, it's a beautiful wave.
26:58But the truth is that it requires a very fine surf,
27:01and I like that.
27:03If you make the slightest mistake, the wave won't let you surf it.
27:11When I saw the size of the tide,
27:13it was like a mountain of black water approaching.
27:17I had never seen such a big wave in all my life.
27:22I was in the right place at the right time.
27:25It was my time, and I didn't hesitate for a moment.
27:28That's why I came here.
27:35And if I die, bad luck, but you have to jump.
27:38If you fall, the first thing you have to take into account is the impact.
27:42Hitting the water at 80 km per hour is very violent.
27:45The wave has a circular movement.
27:47It constantly sucks you up and throws you down while it turns you.
27:53And it can burst your eardrums.
27:57I ran out of breath at the end of the first wave,
28:00and then there was a second wave that broke over my head,
28:03and I couldn't get up again to get my breath back.
28:06And when I managed to get to the surface,
28:08three more waves were coming.
28:10So I had to submerge again.
28:12And when I fell, I thought,
28:14well, it's over.
28:16Thank you, and may God bless you.
28:18Luckily, I didn't hit anything, and everything went well.
28:22You never know how a wave can swallow you up.
28:25You have to trust.
28:27Trust the ocean, and...
28:29That's it.
28:32And sometimes it shakes you a little hard.
28:34Sometimes you don't calibrate things well,
28:36and it sends you to the hospital to rehabilitate a little.
28:42At the end of the 1960s,
28:45the surf revolution comes from the other side of the Pacific,
28:48in Australia.
28:50A new legend is being forged in this junkyard.
28:54A group of young surfers recycle neoprene suits
28:57and launch a clothing brand designed for surfing,
29:00Rip Curl.
29:02And on the front sidewalk,
29:04another brand specializes in the manufacture of short surf pants,
29:07Quicksilver.
29:10But the revolution doesn't end there.
29:12The Australians are going to change the way they ride on the waves.
29:15The surfers have come up with the idea of reducing the size of the boards.
29:19The shortboard is born.
29:21It's much more manageable and allows you to link the turns.
29:27The Australian surfers train tirelessly with one goal in mind.
29:32To impose themselves in the world of surfing.
29:43North Shore, Hawaii
29:48Their conquest will begin in Hawaii,
29:50on the North Shore.
29:58At the beginning of the 1970s,
30:01a new generation of Australian surfers
30:04decided to leave their mark on the North Shore.
30:07They were young and arrogant.
30:09They wanted to end the superiority of the Hawaiians on the North Shore,
30:13proving that they were able to do better than them.
30:21Suddenly, a bunch of arrogant Australians
30:25show up on our waves
30:28without showing the least respect for the local rules.
30:33They were like a horde of rats.
30:36They were piling up everywhere
30:39and they were just going to grab all the waves without showing any respect.
30:47They created a new atmosphere,
30:49a different environment in the water
30:52where the idea of sharing didn't exist.
30:55The Hawaiians said,
30:57what do you want? You are in our home, in our surf area.
31:00You come here and you disrespect us.
31:03And the Polynesians couldn't tolerate that.
31:07Guys, we are going to give you yours.
31:10We are going to put you on a plane
31:12and we are going to send you back to your country.
31:14And don't come back.
31:17The Polynesian revolt in Hawaii
31:19acquires an identity dimension.
31:21The Black Shorts, local surfers,
31:23defend their waves with punches.
31:26They are part of a much larger movement
31:29that will spread all over the Polynesian world.
31:32The massive building,
31:34the destruction of ecosystems
31:36and mass tourism
31:38push the Hawaiians to claim their island.
31:44A team of scientists appears
31:46to change the course of history
31:48and return the lost pride to the people of the water.
31:51The project wants to show
31:53that the Polynesians are one people
31:55uniting Hawaii with Tahiti.
31:58They recreate the conditions of the great original migrations
32:01that at that time everyone thought impossible.
32:04To do this, they build a traditional piragua
32:07that transports 18 men, cattle and seeds.
32:13In 1976, the Hokulea
32:16sets sail from Hawaii to Tahiti,
32:18the land of the ancestors.
32:22After 34 days of crossing,
32:25the sailors of the first Hokulea
32:27cross the coast of Tahiti.
32:32I saw it.
32:34It was there.
32:36There was a huge crowd
32:38waiting for the arrival of the boat.
32:41It was an incredible atmosphere of joy.
32:44It is impossible to describe.
32:48The experience of the Hokulea
32:51benefited all the peoples of the Pacific.
32:57At the end of the 1970s,
32:59the Polynesian people reappropriated
33:01their original culture and their name,
33:03the Maori people.
33:07In Tahiti, the surf
33:09recovers the central place
33:11that had been lost for almost a century.
33:14The surf brought us together
33:17as a united people,
33:20around the same culture.
33:24The truth is that we were a living people.
33:30The surf unites the peoples.
33:33But at that time,
33:35some also realized
33:37that the surf can generate money.
33:40A lot of money.
33:45In the 1980s,
33:47the surf clothing industry
33:49imposed its brands.
33:51It is no longer necessary to surf
33:53to look like a surfer.
33:55The industry moves
33:57to millions of dollars.
33:59And sponsored by the brands,
34:01surfers who compete
34:03in the professional circuit
34:05can finally live from their passion.
34:15Welcome to Huntington Beach, California,
34:17headquarters of Lope Pro.
34:19When we created the professional circuit
34:21in the mid-1970s,
34:23the metal prize was around $ 5,000.
34:25It's true, it wasn't much.
34:27The ambition was to be able to
34:29distribute hundreds of thousands of dollars.
34:34How do you feel?
34:35It's been amazing.
34:37The surfers were dazzled
34:39by the prospect of becoming
34:41professionals
34:43and making a living surfing.
34:45That was the goal.
34:47The professional circuit
34:49gave legitimacy to the surf.
34:51The image of surfers
34:53was complete.
34:55They went from beach vagabonds
34:57to professional athletes.
35:03The sexualization of surfing
35:05is the marketing argument
35:07that accompanies its professionalization.
35:09The worst of the worst
35:11is staged in large shows.
35:13Bikini contests between each batch.
35:15The surfers, on the other hand,
35:17fill in the gaps
35:19between popcorn and jumps
35:22Women surf
35:24whenever there are almost no waves
35:26or when the wind changes.
35:28It's true that women
35:30can't express themselves,
35:32so they don't have spectators either.
35:38Men had priority.
35:40That was for years
35:42the common denominator
35:44of surf competitions.
35:48In the late 80s,
35:50a generation of women surfers
35:52decided to stand up.
35:54They have no sponsors,
35:56no equipment, no money,
35:58but they don't care.
36:00Sorority drives them
36:02to the assault of a world
36:04thought and organized by men.
36:08If we look at the first generations
36:10of women who participated
36:12in the competitions,
36:14they didn't really have a choice.
36:16They all had to open up
36:18saying that they weren't men
36:20and that they could also surf.
36:26Among them stands out
36:28the icon of a whole generation.
36:30Lisa Anderson
36:34Lisa was the person
36:36who embodied that female movement.
36:38She was a little rebellious girl,
36:40tough and somewhat wild,
36:42who was not afraid of anything
36:44and who had a childhood
36:46that was a little difficult
36:48with her parents.
36:52At the beginning of the 1990s,
36:54in a record time,
36:56Lisa Anderson dominated
36:58the most important podiums
37:00and gave the female surf
37:02her letter of nobility.
37:04Sponsors praised her
37:06and very soon she was welcomed
37:08with open arms by an old surfer
37:10who became chief of Quicksilver.
37:12Lisa was undoubtedly
37:14the best surfer
37:16we had ever known.
37:18She came to the Quicksilver
37:20department of styling
37:22and she said she didn't want
37:24to surf in a bikini anymore.
37:26She wanted a short pants
37:28that was feminine and practical,
37:30strong and resistant,
37:32but that also fit her well.
37:34She joined the team
37:36and started designing
37:38short pants for women.
37:40We launched a small series
37:42of short pants for women
37:44and it was a great success.
37:46So we thought,
37:48something is happening here.
37:50The first line of
37:52feminine equipment
37:54is about to be born,
37:56but the Australian chief of Quicksilver
37:58does not want the brand
38:00to lose its male identity.
38:02He insists on creating another brand
38:04named after his beloved daughter,
38:06Roxy.
38:08In 1995,
38:10the magazine Surfer Magazine
38:12gives all the prominence
38:14to Lisa Anderson,
38:16making her the first woman
38:18to cover a surf magazine.
38:20She said,
38:22Lisa surfs better than you.
38:24So Lisa can surf
38:26better than any boy.
38:28It was good.
38:30I think it was quite radical.
38:32But they did it,
38:34and bravo for them.
38:36It was a real change.
38:48At the same time,
38:50the last surf revolution takes place.
38:54A powerful surf,
38:56magnetized to the wave.
38:58A style revolution
39:00that triggers a trick after another.
39:02This new revolution
39:04does not take place in Waikiki or Malibu.
39:06It starts here,
39:08in an American suburb
39:10like any other,
39:12in the early 90s.
39:14This video,
39:16seen over and over again
39:18by a whole generation,
39:20is a mythical recording
39:22for surfers.
39:24The Momentum generation,
39:26as they call themselves,
39:28approaches surfing
39:30in a way never seen before,
39:32clinging to the wave
39:34as long as possible
39:36to combine the greatest number
39:38of tricks.
39:40Among them,
39:42the god of surfers,
39:44Kelly Slater.
39:54He grew up surfing
39:56in little waves
39:58in Cocoa Beach, Florida.
40:00A lot of really great surfers
40:02have come to learn
40:04in really bad conditions.
40:06But it does, it just trains
40:08the sharpness,
40:10the speed,
40:12and then when you face
40:14a higher wave,
40:16like in Hawaii,
40:18it's easy.
40:20I think about surfing
40:22when I'm eating
40:24and I dream about it
40:26while I'm sleeping.
40:28And that's the way
40:30you've got to do that.
40:32Your whole life
40:34has to revolve
40:36around surfing.
40:38If you want to do tricks,
40:40first you have to visualize
40:42them,
40:44imagine what you could
40:46do while you're
40:48watching waves.
40:50You have to imagine
40:52what you could do
40:54while you're surfing.
41:20Fluidity,
41:22quality of the tracks,
41:24degree of difficulty,
41:26and strength of the wave.
41:28An artistic figure.
41:30Kelly Slater is unbeatable
41:32in this game.
41:34He wins consecutively
41:36the world championships
41:38of 1994,
41:4095, 96,
41:4297, and 98.
41:46Surfing is not just a sport.
41:48It's a way of life.
41:54Slater is so popular
41:56that they dedicate a video game to him.
41:58You can surf on Kelly Slater's skin
42:00or face him.
42:02The dream of every surfer.
42:08Kelly is a legend.
42:10There's no one like him.
42:12He's just the boss.
42:14The boss.
42:20At 50 years old,
42:22Kelly Slater holds 11 world championships
42:24and continues to compete
42:26against the best surfers on the planet.
42:30There will never be another like Kelly.
42:32The professional surfer
42:34seems to have no limits
42:36while the popular surfer
42:38takes over the whole planet.
42:40Some purists
42:42stay away from the noise
42:44of the competition.
42:46Leir Hamilton
42:48decides to take the bull by the horns
42:50to rediscover
42:52the roots of the surf.
42:54I looked at the horizon
42:56and thought,
42:58what is this place?
43:00I looked at the horizon
43:02and thought,
43:04okay, that's the ocean,
43:06that's the surf.
43:08I had seen every kind of surf,
43:10all the changes in the material,
43:12the new places,
43:14and I wondered
43:16what might interest me.
43:18Then I understood
43:20that I wanted to do
43:22what no one else could do.
43:24Leir Hamilton grew up
43:26on the North Shore
43:28in Lima, in contact
43:30with the surf of the origins.
43:34Leir was a great athlete.
43:36His ambition was to surf
43:38giant waves,
43:40like his father.
43:42But there was a physical limit
43:44because the greater the wave,
43:46the faster you had to row.
43:48And the human strength
43:50has a limit.
43:54What he needed was propulsion.
43:56So, together with his friend
43:58Bassi Kerbox,
44:00they decided to buy a Zodiac.
44:02With it, they could go faster
44:04than the waves.
44:06So they began to develop
44:08the idea of surfing.
44:10One morning in February
44:121993,
44:14the photographer Silvan Kasenath
44:16flies above the crew
44:18facing the coasts of Hawaii
44:20and immortalizes this historical moment.
44:22The Zodiac was bad inside
44:24and suddenly they see
44:26a giant wave approaching.
44:32The team has been preparing for months.
44:34The pilot of the Zodiac
44:36tows Leir Hamilton
44:38on the crest of the huge wave
44:40that is forming.
44:42Located on the breaking line,
44:44Hamilton releases the link
44:46that unites the others
44:48and launches into the unknown.
44:50They left me in the wave.
44:52The wave picked me up.
44:54While I was rising,
44:56I had the feeling
44:58that I was flying.
45:00I felt free.
45:06I freed myself from the chains of surfing.
45:08It was an evolution
45:10that opened new horizons for us.
45:12As if the world
45:14suddenly grew bigger.
45:20Following the stele of Leir Hamilton,
45:22the surfers
45:24draw a picture
45:26of the wave
45:28that is forming
45:30on the crest of the wave.
45:32This picture
45:34is called
45:36The surfers
45:38draw a new map of the world.
45:40For them,
45:42it is about following the storms
45:44and the tides,
45:46which will decide
45:48and give more rhythm
45:50than ever to the life
45:52of these new surfers.
45:54Justine Dupont
45:56was champion of the longboard world
45:58before dedicating herself
46:00completely to giant wave surfing.
46:02Since then,
46:04she is a wave hunter,
46:06one of the few women
46:08who dares to dance on volcanoes.
46:12When you jump,
46:14you know that you are going to discover
46:16a wave of which you know nothing.
46:18It may be the only time
46:20in your life that you surf it.
46:22It is a unique moment in your life.
46:24That is what makes it special
46:26and what I love about surfing big waves.
46:28That search,
46:30that discovery.
46:34In 2011,
46:36a new wave appears
46:38on the world map
46:40of surfing.
46:42The wave of Nazaré,
46:44in Portugal.
46:46In stormy days,
46:48this wave can reach
46:5030 meters high.
46:52At the bottom of the ocean,
46:54it can reach up
46:56to 100 meters.
46:58It can reach
47:00up to 100 meters
47:02At the bottom of the ocean,
47:04it can reach
47:06up to 500 meters.
47:08It can reach
47:10up to 5000 meters.
47:12It is a geological splendor
47:14that hits the coast
47:16with a deafening noise.
47:18At the top,
47:20it is a sand
47:22where spectators
47:24observe and wait.
47:26Anyone who faces
47:28the avalanche of Nazaré
47:30must be surrounded by a team
47:32prepared for everything,
47:34because the fall
47:36can be fatal.
47:54When I find big waves,
47:56I usually wake up
47:58at 4 a.m.
48:04The whole team is there
48:06at 5 a.m.
48:08We prepare,
48:10we distribute the radios,
48:12we develop the situation plan
48:14and we review the positions.
48:16I gather the team
48:18and we promise
48:20to support each other.
48:22Sebastian Stotner holds
48:24the world record
48:26for the largest wave,
48:2828 meters,
48:30similar to a 10-story building.
48:32I like to go out to the water
48:34just before dawn,
48:36when it is still very dark.
48:38I can see the silhouettes
48:40of the waves passing by.
48:42And when I see them in the distance,
48:44I know they are going to be big.
48:48I can measure the strength
48:50of the wave by its color.
48:52The darker,
48:54the stronger.
48:58Everything that happens afterwards
49:00is purely intuitive.
49:06For me,
49:08this is one of the best moments.
49:10I stand on the wave
49:12and I take the time
49:14to contemplate it as a whole.
49:20That vision,
49:22that speed,
49:24is indescribable.
49:34At that moment,
49:36there is only the wave and me.
49:38You let go of the rope and that's it.
49:40All your senses come to life.
49:42They open,
49:44they are there, awake.
49:46And once the wave
49:48rises behind you,
49:50you feel it.
49:52And you also perceive it
49:54because you see
49:56how its huge shadow
49:58creeps over you.
50:00You feel it coming closer.
50:02You hear it coming
50:04with all its rumble
50:06and the huge impact
50:08of the wave's lip
50:10breaking behind you.
50:12You really feel
50:14the wave caressing you
50:16and you think,
50:19when I surfed the wave
50:21of the world record,
50:23I understood
50:25that we had reached the limits
50:27of surfing
50:29in terms of technique
50:31and the construction of boards.
50:40Sebastian Stotner,
50:42like Tom Blake at the time
50:44or Leir Hamilton,
50:46is the main surfer.
50:48And he does it here,
50:50in an aerodynamic tube,
50:52to increase his speed.
50:56Here, Kelly Slater creates
50:58an artificial wave park
51:00to be able to surf
51:02on what he calls
51:04the perfect wave.
51:10But there is something that persists.
51:13It is the celebration of the ocean,
51:15initiated by the people of the water,
51:17which consists of sliding
51:19through the folds of the world
51:21to test our fragility
51:23against the elements.
51:25Today we are 35 million
51:27riding on the waves
51:29all over the planet
51:31and perpetuating
51:33the love for surfing.
51:38I hope that the new generations
51:40never forget that surfing
51:42is a dance.
51:44A hula, a ballet,
51:46whatever it is,
51:48that is the grace.
51:51Never forget to dance
51:55and always smile.
51:57That's what surfing is about.
52:10www.surfing.org