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00:00 Hey guys! Good morning Salon Centric family! It's me, Anthony Pazos, and I wanted to show
00:06 you guys today a really awesome and amazing trick that I use to paint my clients on a
00:11 regular basis. I know a lot of you guys are really interested in balayage. It's one of
00:15 my favorite things to do. I personally really love doing it. I feel like the freehand painting
00:21 aspect of it really gives a lot of versatility and it's just so much fun. Not only that,
00:27 but the grout looks really amazing. So let's kind of get into just like the basics of what
00:32 balayage is. First of all, for those of you that don't know what balayage is, balayage
00:37 is traditionally a French technique created in Paris. The word balayage itself actually
00:44 translates into the word sweeping. A lot of you guys don't really know what that actual
00:49 translation meant, so you're hearing it first here. But today I want to show you how we're
00:55 going to be transforming our model's hair. This is Miss Elizabeth. She's a little camera
01:01 shy guys, okay? But we're going to be getting right into this transformation. So today I've
01:06 pre-sectioned her already. The very first section that I used was in the middle of her
01:10 pupils going all the way back to the apex of the head. That was the very first section.
01:14 If you can look kind of a little bit closer, that's this section right here. I'm going
01:18 to go over these sections again because I want you guys to get a really clear picture.
01:22 The second section is going to be in the middle of the eyebrow going all the way back, kind
01:26 of in a horseshoe parting. And it kind of goes within the receding line of her hair.
01:32 Third section is going to be at the very tip of her eyebrows. I'm leaving a little piece
01:36 in the front so I can highlight in the front really naturally. I'm taking the tip of her
01:39 eyebrows and I'm going all the way across in another horseshoe parting. You want to
01:44 make sure that you're having these parts be very tight and nice and secure so that they're
01:48 not getting in the way of your previous section. Now when it comes to freehand painting, you
01:55 always want to make sure that you're using a bleach that doesn't swell. Personally today
01:58 I'll be using a Redken Flash Lift, which gives you, I believe this bad boy gives you up to
02:03 seven levels of lift. Oh, I'm sorry, eight levels of lift, which is amazing for freehand
02:07 painting. So if you guys out there aren't sure what bleach to use, Redken Flash Lift
02:12 is an amazing one. I'm going to be doing 40 volume today. Her hair is pretty blonde at
02:19 the tips. She's kind of got like a really grown out ombre situation going on over here.
02:24 Now unfortunately I only have an hour with you guys for this live feed. And feel free
02:29 to ask any questions throughout the whole entire process. I'm a complete open book.
02:32 You know, don't forget guys that balayage for me in my salon is an easy way to create
02:38 an imprint on the hair. And then once you create your imprint, a very natural imprint,
02:42 you can pretty much tone with any single color. So it's basically like the starting point
02:46 of a natural blonde balayage or even a vivid color balayage. You still have to make sure
02:53 that you're creating a blonde imprint before you're picking your ending tone. So let's
02:59 go ahead and get right, let's get started right into it. So like I said, I cover on
03:03 the very first product, which is a bleach. Like I said, I'm using the Redken Flash Lift,
03:08 eight levels of lift. Amazing. I'll be using a 40 volume developer and I have my pop-up
03:14 foils. You can also find at Salon Centric, super nifty because they're already pre-cut.
03:18 Well, it's time to cut. I don't have time to cut girls. Shoot. But let's get into it.
03:23 Safety first. So we're going to be using a glove and I usually wear an apron, but today
03:28 we're just going to get messy. Okay. We're going to go right for, Oh, I almost forgot
03:32 my paddle. This was some club. I'm sorry. Probably club as well. Also can be found at
03:38 Salon Centric. Super nifty. I'll be showing you how to use this in a second. Okay. Let's
03:42 talk about the consistency of your bleach. You don't want your bleach to be too dry or
03:47 too runny. If your bleach is too runny, what's going to happen is you're not going to be
03:50 able to have enough control over it and it's going to end up creating imprint on the hair.
03:55 That's going to make it leaving kind of splotchy and just all around not unison. And we really
04:00 like the hair imprint to be concise and pretty perfect, especially because you want your
04:06 clients to keep coming back to you. The reason why I love the Redken is because you're getting
04:12 literally let's find my little, Oh, one second. And as there's no little scooper to it, how
04:20 dare they not get a scooper. Kind of show the actual starting color of what our model's
04:31 hair is looking like. You get a nice close up of that. Okay. All right. Ms. Christy,
04:40 let's get right back into this mixing of this lightener. Here's the deal, guys. I never
04:44 mix more than one scoop at a time. Once I use my very first scoop, then I go back into
04:50 my product and then I grab more. Every time I mix too much product, what's happening is
04:55 you're having an abundant amount of product and it's going weak. I want my product because
04:59 I'm freehand painting to be as strong as possible throughout my entire process so I can get
05:04 an even distribution of color and imprint on the hair as possible. So let's keep moving
05:09 forward. You saw what I was doing for bleach. Make sure you guys pick this bad boy up. We
05:13 are super candid today. I'm loving this. Hey, Sandra. Let's keep going. We're having fun.
05:22 So I'm taking my 40 volume. It's pretty simple, guys. It's not rocket science, okay? Squeezing
05:28 that bad one in here. Now, here's the deal. Like I said, I want my consistency to be pretty
05:33 kind of workable, a little bit pasty, not too wet. I'm going to use my whisker. I'm
05:50 really vigorous with this whisking over here, my goodness. Okay, let's check out this texture.
05:55 This is a pretty decent texture. I wouldn't want it to be any watery than this. If it's
06:00 waterier than this, it's not going to be fun and you're not going to have as much control.
06:05 And here's the deal. If it's too much drier than this consistency, you're not going to
06:09 have enough activation time on the hair, which means you're not going to get enough level
06:13 of lift. So depending on where you want to end up on for the actual finished look, you
06:20 want to have enough lift. So stay on the more wet side of the consistency as opposed to
06:25 the dry side. I'll show you a little trick that you can kind of use to reanimate the
06:29 bleach off of the dryer a little bit later. But let's get right into the painting, okay?
06:37 Usually I've got background music playing today, but since we're going live, we're making
06:41 this be completely tutorial based. Okay, let's look at these bad boys. So here's the deal.
06:49 Don't have to worry about this blonde hair down here, because it's already blonde. The
06:53 cool thing about this is that even though I'll be only doing a balayage retouch on her
06:57 hair for the most part, I can use the same bleach afterwards and kind of like a shampoo
07:02 cap type stripper. So what I'll do is I'll paint her. She'll sit for a good, what, 25,
07:08 30 minutes, depending on how fast her hair is lifting. I'll go back, rinse it, put a
07:12 little bit of water in it. With that same water, the same bleach that's on the hair,
07:15 I'll kind of shampoo the entire hair off everywhere to kind of get rid of this top layer of toner
07:21 that she already has on this hair. But let's get right into the painting process. I don't
07:25 know about you guys, that's for me some of the funnest part. Okay, this is how I traditionally
07:29 paint a balayage. I'm a big talker, guys. I talk a lot. I hope you guys are still catching
07:34 up with me over here. Anyways, first things first. To properly hold a balayage brush,
07:40 I'm not sure if very many of you know this technique, but this is kind of how I use it.
07:43 I use a rat tail comb. I kind of hold it like this, and simultaneously I'm holding my painting
07:48 comb. And I'll show you why in a second. So let's grab this bleach. I've got my products
07:55 called the palette. And this is the long one, by the way. It comes in a short one. I don't
07:59 really like the short one, especially because her hair is so gosh dang long. I'm going to
08:03 go straight for the big bad boy over here. Get a little bit of this consistency, my bleach.
08:08 Remember, this is Redken Flash Lift, eight levels of lift with a 40 volume. And that
08:14 should be plenty of lift for her. I'm kind of just painting my palette over here first.
08:21 Set that down. Okay, let's start with the back first. I'm going to grab about a two
08:25 and a half inch section over here. A little bit tangly. You could go further down if you
08:30 want, but for the sake of timing today, seeing as I only have an hour with you guys, I'm
08:34 going to keep it pretty natural. Okay, so here's the deal. This was the last imprint
08:39 that I did on her maybe about six months ago. This has about a good two and a half. How
08:44 long has it been since you've had your hair last? Has it been three months?
08:46 - Four.
08:47 - It's been about four months. So this is about four months of growth right here. You
08:51 can tell that the grow out process with balayage is so amazing. It really gives access to your
08:59 clients not to come back to you so often, which sometimes for us is kind of a pain because
09:04 the whole point is that we want to make sure that we're doing clients over and over and
09:07 over again to have revenue. Of course, revenue is the most important. So let's get right
09:12 into the painting. I'm going to kind of follow this line, but I usually do a V-type section
09:19 over here. Let's get right into it, shall we? Painting it on. See that's a nice little...
09:24 I'm going to go ahead and connect this one. So usually I do two, but this I'm going to
09:28 do three, okay? I'm going to show you this. Hopefully you guys are watching along and
09:33 seeing how we're painting this. Okay, here's the deal, guys. The more bleach you put in
09:38 an area, the lighter it'll be and the more processing it'll have. However, if you decide
09:42 to get a little bit of bleach and kind of do more of a wispier type application, it
09:47 won't be as strong and it'll help you blend. Great. Now this is where your rat tail comb
09:52 comes into play. These are kind of chunky for me, which isn't a horrible situation.
09:57 However, making sure that I'm not leaving a really ugly imprint, I'm going to go through
10:02 the rat tail comb and I'm going to pick through it really quickly to make sure that all this
10:07 hair is in the same direction, that there's no knots, and that my imprint after I leave
10:12 it is going to be beautiful. I'm going to keep going. Don't forget, guys, you guys have
10:15 got to do this kind of quick, okay? A full process for me takes about a good two hours
10:20 from start to finish. However, Jennifer here has a copious amount of hair, a mess load
10:25 of hair. Girl, you've got a lot of hair. But that's okay, we're going to keep getting into
10:32 it. So don't forget, guys, once this bleach has been activated and you've mixed it, it
10:36 is working. So you cannot not stop working. You've got to keep putting it on that bleach
10:42 and keep putting it on and making sure that it's not looking crazy, and making sure that
10:46 using your rat tail comb should create a very even imprint, okay? Because ugly imprints
10:51 are not cute and ain't. Everybody got no sense of that time, honey. I'm going to connect
10:55 these really quick, remembering that the more product you put in an area, the lighter it'll
11:00 be, the wispier the amount of product, the wispier and kind of the darker list you'll
11:07 get. I'm going to go on this side over here. I'm going to keep going. I'm going to keep
11:10 going. I'm going to show you what I'm going to use in between as my divider. People use
11:14 a bunch of different things. I use foil just because I'm using it as a heat activator.
11:20 You can use a saran wrap. What I found is the saran wrap doesn't really, it's not really
11:25 aiding me necessarily in having more amount of cooking time. For me, I'm only going to
11:30 bleach her once. I'm not going to go back. I'm not going to balayage her twice. The very
11:35 first time for me is the most important, okay? Okay, perfect example. Come in and get really
11:42 close, Christiata. Here's the deal. This is what happens when you're rushing, right? The
11:52 line will look crazy. But guess what, guys? It doesn't have to be that way because you
11:56 have your handy dandy rat tail comb and you can fix these lines right away. Go back, make
12:03 it perfect. Don't forget, whatever you paint on here is the actual imprint that's going
12:09 to be left on her head. That imprint, because you're using bleach and/or lighteners, is
12:14 permanent, folks. See that? Look at that. Way nicer. We took a really quick application
12:21 and made it look concise and nice using our rat tail comb. Okay, keep going. If you want
12:28 to have any questions, I absolutely love inspiring others to learn new techniques to create revenue
12:37 for your salon, which I think is huge. This one for me is a really big process that I
12:45 do over and over and over again. I do about, I think probably I've done about five of these
12:50 bad boys in a day. And the cool thing is that they're always ever-changing. It's just that
12:55 balayage for me, like I said, is the very first step of the lightening process and then
13:01 to be able to add any color tonage afterwards. Unfortunately, I won't be able to show you
13:06 the tonage today or what we'll be using depending on where I maybe go with it. I'm probably
13:11 going to pick a Vivid's color for her, but I'm not 100% sure yet. I've got free range
13:16 with her hair today, so I'm super excited. That was kind of the deal. Thanks, Jennifer.
13:21 We might make her bright pink, honey, who knows? Pink for Christmas, why not? Let's
13:27 keep going, guys, because don't forget, this is processing, painting this bad boy, using
13:33 my rat tail comb to make sure that these bad boy streaks are looking pretty. It's a little
13:37 bit darker down here. I'm not going to go all the way up, because I think that will
13:41 look crazy. Okay, and see this little piece right here if you look close? Had I not cottoned
13:47 this, had I not straightened that out, that would have left me a really not so cute imprint.
13:52 The rat tail comb holding it at the same time is a really nice aid to making sure that your
13:56 highlights are looking fabulous. Now, this is when the pre-cut foils come into play.
14:01 You can use Saran Wrap, fine. You can use the cellophane papers that come pre-cut as
14:07 well. I use foil because I like the heat. I'm seeing some questions here. Thank you
14:11 for sharing this video. I'm glad you guys are liking it so far. Does anyone have any
14:15 questions? I know I'm a talker, honey, but I can talk and answer questions at the same
14:20 time. I'm covering it. Another thing is this. If for some reason you cover this and this
14:25 foil falls off, what's happening here is this is a perfect highlight right here. I
14:30 want to show you something. Go ahead and get in really close, Miss Kristiana. I'm going
14:34 to touch the foil with the hair and now I have an imprint on here. Here's the deal.
14:39 If you use that same foil and place this somewhere else, you're going to act like a stamp and
14:44 it's going to stamp somewhere else on the hair. You don't want that imprint. Foil's
14:49 not very expensive, guys. Get a new piece of foil and get a nice solid imprint. Place
14:56 it once and don't touch it. Leave it be.
15:00 Okay, next section. These are nice and pretty sections. Get a little bit closer. You can
15:05 see that's a view parting. Miss Kristiana, go down in here really quickly and show you
15:09 my view parting. Okay, nice view parting here. It's usually nice to have these parts, for
15:17 example, right here. It'd be nice to have this a little bit tighter so that it's not
15:21 in your way. The whole point of this process is to go fast. The faster you can go and do
15:26 balayage, the more clients you get at the end of the day. At the end of the day, that's
15:31 creating more revenue for your salon, which is huge.
15:33 We do have a question. Talk to me. What's the question?
15:36 The question is, do you ever use cotton so you don't get glue in your nails?
15:41 You can use cotton. Yeah, sure, why not? You can use even a small piece of foil. That's
15:48 just an added preventative measure. I'm all about preventative measures. I feel like as
15:53 you get more comfortable and as you get more steady with your balayage freehand painting,
15:57 you won't need as many little things to prevent bleeding. As long as your sections are pre-brushed
16:03 out ahead of time and they're laid down with the foil on top of it immediately after your
16:09 application, you'll be okay. You won't create other imprints everywhere else. Cotton is
16:15 still a nice precautionary measure to use. If you have it available, fine. Go ahead and
16:20 use it. They would teach us to use that back in the day as well. I think as time has progressed
16:25 and I've gotten more comfortable painting freehand, I haven't had to use it.
16:30 Let's look at this section over here. I did a really wispy application at the base. There's
16:35 some darkness in the midshaft. I'm going to do a wispy application in the midshaft,
16:39 not trying to overlap too much because we all know what happens when we overlap. When
16:44 we overlap, we get dry, brittle, over-processed hair. I don't know about you girls, but I
16:50 hate that. It is not fun. I'm going to make this a bit more
16:54 thick of product. I'm using my rat tail comb still, brushing down.
17:03 I'm going to go a little bit heavier with this highlight in the midshaft area. Done.
17:09 Moving forward, I'm going to come over here. You can see how it's following me.
17:15 So any more questions, guys? I really absolutely love doing balayage. Let's talk about the
17:22 psychology of client to hairstylist now. Here's the deal, girls and guys. If you're at all
17:29 ever feeling uncomfortable with something that you're putting out into the world, whether
17:33 it's for a client or there's an energy switch within the chair, and I know you guys can
17:37 feel that sometimes with your clients, it's because something that you did or the end
17:42 result with that, sorry, the end result that came out, they're not jiving with it. And
17:47 in that moment, you need to use your instincts to be able to transform that end look maybe
17:54 slightly to tweak it to make sure that your client is leaving your chair feeling fabulous.
17:59 Okay? That's super important. At the end of the day, we want to make sure that these
18:02 guys, especially our bread and butter clients, we want them to be coming back all the time
18:06 for us. That's super important for us. So we're always wanting to make sure we're giving
18:09 them 110% of ourselves so that they come back. Using my rat tail comb to paint these highlights
18:17 on. And who would have known? Usually when you're talking and painting at the same time,
18:23 it goes a little bit faster than this, but seeing as we're explaining it today,
18:26 now he's feeling like he's going a little bit slower than usual.
18:30 Okay, question. What's your go-to toner?
18:33 Ooh, you know what? That really depends. I really, really, really love for all Balayage
18:40 Blancs, I'm a huge Redken Shades EQ toner. They come in so many different tones. I mean,
18:46 the Blue Steel is fabulous. It's a 9B. I always mix it with the clear developer and the developer
18:52 that it comes with. Here's the deal. What I've noticed is that for those Redken Shades EQ
18:58 developers, they're really transparent. They're really great for Blancs. If you're wanting a
19:03 more of an opaque type toner, then I really wouldn't go with that. I would go with more
19:08 something like the Katis. Katis is a professional brand product that's recently, it's a pretty
19:13 relatively new product. What I like about their toners is that they're consistent. I'm sorry,
19:18 they're demi-permanent colors, but they're consistent. And that they'll give you a bit
19:23 more of a more opaque finish as opposed to the Redken, which gives you a more translucent and
19:28 kind of transparent finish. But hands down, Redken Shades EQ, just hands down. It's great
19:36 for those platinum Blancs. I love the 9B. The great thing about it is that depending on how
19:41 much clear developer you put in, let me show you what it does. Let me show you this really quick.
19:47 Okay. Depending on how much of the crystal clear you guys put in, it will be the deciding factor
19:52 how potent your toner is. So I usually do about one ounce color to about one ounce of this to
20:02 half an ounce, depending on how much dilutants I want or how strong I want it. If the girl's hair
20:07 is like super yellow, I'm only going to tone a bit stronger. If it's more of a pale yellow,
20:12 then obviously I'll put less of the clear. Great product. Avocado Seed and Grape Seed Oil. Huge
20:18 conditioning. I love, love, love, love, love, love. Okay. We're getting back into this painting.
20:25 Another reason why Miss Jennifer's hair is so nice is because she's using a purple shampoo
20:35 in between visits. And seeing as her hair is nice, what is that, the level four, give or take three,
20:44 it's pretty dark, natural base color. She will go, unfortunately, we all know, I know what you guys
20:50 know what I'm about to say. Yes, you're right. She'll go brassy. And guess what? Brassy is not
20:55 cute. Brassy, as a matter of fact, looks really cheap. And ain't nobody got time for that. But
21:00 we want to make sure that we're really lightening her as much as possible in the very first time,
21:04 and that we're really toning her out. Toning out is so important, guys. Not only that,
21:10 it's an all on service. You can charge anywhere from $45 to $75 for a toner, up to $100,
21:18 depending on what that is. But we love, we love toners because we don't like raw bleach. We think
21:27 raw bleach is kind of undone. But the cool thing about it is, is that toners are fun. Toners will
21:35 always make your look feel more soft, which I love. And I don't know how much you guys love
21:41 painting, but I, uh oh, see that's not good. Okay, perfect example here, guys. I want you guys to
21:47 check out what just happened here. My comb just took some of this bleach. Now my option is to use
21:53 this same foil and to paste it back on, which it looks like in this case, it might just go back in
22:00 its same imprint. Perfect. However, if it didn't go back in its same imprint and I couldn't place
22:06 it right back on the exact highlight, it would have created another imprint and that would have
22:10 not been pretty. It would have looked tacky, it would have been a hot, disastrous mess.
22:14 So any more questions that you see there? What's that brand again? I am using a Red King,
22:19 I'm sorry, I'm using, no I am, I'm using Red King Flash Lift for the bleach, with 40 volume.
22:25 There is absolutely no Olaplex in here. However, I am a big fan of Olaplex. I think it's fantastic.
22:31 Just an FYI, guys, what I've been doing for myself for Olaplex is I've been using my Olaplex
22:37 as more of an aftercare treatment because what I realized with my bleaching, especially when it
22:41 comes to freehand painting, is I don't want my bleach developer to be diluted by a nourishing
22:48 treatment. So, you know, a little just depends on how you guys want to operate. But like I said,
22:53 I'm not saying no to Olaplex, I'm just using it as an aftercare treatment.
22:57 More questions that we have here. What lightener are you using? I'm using the Red King Flash Lift.
23:02 How thick are your scissors?
23:04 I'm sorry? How thick are my sections?
23:07 Sections, yes.
23:08 My sections, I would say, are about a half an inch thick. This is, don't forget, this is a
23:15 retouch balayage, okay? And you can look at the ends over here, check out the ends.
23:21 These bad boys, sorry, it's a bit wobbly, honey, she's had a little bit to drink.
23:24 Just kidding. Her ends are alight already. Now, believe it or not, I'm going to surprise you guys
23:31 with the finished product because even though we're going to change, we're bleaching it just
23:36 today, I'm showing you just the bleaching process and the bleaching technique, I'm going to be
23:40 completely transforming this tone as well. And the finished product will be on Saloncentric's
23:47 Facebook page and website, and it will give you literally every single breakdown of exactly what
23:53 I've used, what sections, and I won't withhold anything because I know it's always fun to kind
23:59 of learn new tips and tricks to better your game. Okay, we're getting on the top section over here.
24:05 Now, this is all, okay, perfect example. This was me, I was being a good boy over here.
24:11 I really made this one nice and tight, and this is great because not only is my section clean,
24:16 but the hair is all out of the way. So this just gives me easy access to the next section because
24:22 don't forget, guys, time is money. The more of these babbles you can fit in your chair within a
24:27 day. Okay, let's talk about the front over here. Now, I don't know about you guys, but I always
24:33 love a very Victoria's Secrets looking, very natural, brighter kind of effect in the front.
24:39 You can see here she's got brighter kind of effect in the front, but it's been grown out.
24:44 So eventually what's going to happen here is I'm going to match these in kind of a V section. It'll
24:48 go one on the top, and it'll go one on the bottom. That's only the very, very end. I'm going to focus
24:53 on the top section, which will kind of give her this like very Victoria's Secrets little
24:58 hue in the front. Hi, Jennifer. Say hi. Hi. I mean, she's camera shy. It's okay.
25:02 We're going to keep going. All right, next section, top of the section. Here's the deal,
25:07 guys. For the very top section, I don't like a lot of bleach. The great thing about balayage
25:12 for your clients is that it gives them longevity between visits, which for most people to save
25:19 is kind of nice. It gives them an opportunity to save. And so with this application, I'll do a V,
25:25 a large V section, starting it right in the front to get a pop in the front and one in the back.
25:30 Not necessarily too much in the middle because I want to create depth, and I want to create
25:34 darkness within the interior of the section. Let's keep going. I'm going to have to plug that
25:38 bad boy in in a second, Miss Cristiana. Okay, let's keep going here. See how that's nice and
25:49 right in the front? Actually, it's a little bit dark in here. Let me create a little
25:54 highlight in the interior. Don't forget, balayage is supposed to mimic the sun,
26:03 but you still want your imprint to be perfect out of respect for your client's care and out
26:12 of respect for your work. Guys, don't ever let your work go if you're not feeling 100% content
26:19 with it. That is your calling card, essentially. You can see how I kind of blended it. I'll leave
26:25 that piece down in the back. I'm really excited to tone this bad boy for you guys afterwards.
26:30 Make sure you guys check out the Facebook section of Salon Centric and the website
26:36 because I'll literally be giving you my actual toner for this final transformation
26:42 along with the after picture, which I'm also very excited to share with you.
26:46 I'm going to keep going here. I have a question. Do you use Redken styling products? Yes, I do
26:56 use Redken styling products. I'm kind of all across the board these days. I use, well,
27:03 let's see what I use these days. I use a lot of Katus. I use only certain products from Redken
27:13 as far as styling gates are concerned. I'm really kind of a one-brand kind of a styling guy,
27:19 if that makes any sense. I do use Katus as well. Although I have used Redken styling beads
27:27 for a while now. It just really depends on kind of what I'm feeling. I like Redken styling beads
27:34 because they're a bit more for on-set work, whereas other brands are a bit more for the salon.
27:40 So it really just depends on what you're looking for. However,
27:43 among these amazing shampoos that I'm using right now, it's all soft by Redken. I'm not sure if you
27:49 guys are familiar with it, but it can be picked up at salon center and it just makes the hair feel
27:56 literally like what it says. It makes it feel all soft. I like it for thick hair, especially when
28:02 the thick hair is really unmanageable. It kind of gives it this kind of this more like a weight
28:06 effect and makes it not so big. It kind of weighs it down a bit more, which is nice. It also makes
28:15 it feel very, very soft, which I love. However, if you're looking for volume and volume, all soft
28:23 by Redken won't necessarily be helpful with that. The painting over here is still using my...
28:28 Hey, can you say what type of toner you have? Guys, you know what? I'm not exactly sure what
28:34 type of toner I would be using on this particular process because I'm really going to probably
28:39 switch it up for actual tone. If you guys check on the Facebook live section of SalonCentric's
28:45 page and/or their website, you can see the very, very end transformation. I'll be adding the
28:51 before picture in there for you guys too. Literally, what I'm going to be doing is I'm
28:56 going to be shampoo capping this with the same bleach that's already on her head. I'm going to
29:01 be completely changing the tone. However, if you wanted to create a very natural tone or a natural
29:07 effect with her natural base color starting off and the product that I've already used,
29:12 she'll probably be like a 9B. A 9 because even though we're in the beginning of the 40 volume,
29:18 she'll still get pretty yellow-orange. To cut that, I would probably use a 9B. With the amount
29:25 of hair that she has, it would probably be at least an ounce and a half of color mixed with clear
29:31 and then obviously the developer. Here's the deal. I would leave that 9B on for a while.
29:37 I would let it process. It's funny because with the Redken Shades EQ, if it looks gray,
29:44 even when it's wet, it's not going to come out that way because don't forget, Redken Shades EQ
29:49 is a translucent color. It's transparent. It's really just laying on top. The longer you leave
29:56 that bad boy on, the more it'll tone down your color. Like I said, guys, I really do not like,
30:04 I really despise warmth of golden, orangey tones when they're not meant to be there.
30:11 Here's the deal. When this bad boy is processing, don't rush it. Let it take its time. Don't
30:19 forget, guys, bleach runs out in 45 minutes. After the bleach is dead, it's dead. It's not
30:24 going to be working too hard anymore. A little bit more 40 volume development here. As the time
30:32 went, my yeast got a little bit dry.
30:35 Just really making sure that I'm painting these. Okay, let's get close to this little speckle over
30:53 here, Christiana. See this little, looks like a little dalmatian dot right there? It's kind of
30:58 all standing by itself. That doesn't work for me, guys. If you do not catch these speckles,
31:03 it's not going to leave a pretty imprint. So my options are to push it in and kind of blend it
31:07 with my finger or add to it. On this case, I'm just going to kind of add to it. Boom, and done.
31:14 And then we're taking our 3-cup oils, it's a Law & Center product club, and we're covering these
31:19 bad boys in one swoosh and not touching them. Once it's covered, leave it be. You don't want
31:25 to create another imprint. You can go ahead and cover these bottom ones too. Why not? I use oil
31:31 because I like the heat activation that I get as opposed to using Saran Wrap. Another one of you
31:36 Saloncentric family members, because we're fam, we're all fam over here, mentioned using cotton.
31:41 Sure, you can use cotton, absolutely. Really up to you, but not a bad idea. You can definitely
31:49 use cotton. Okay, look at that. See? That's not going to work. It's a good thing I caught that
31:55 because had I laid that on there with the hair on top of it, I would have left an imprint,
31:58 and that's not cute. Two cents, who cares? It is what you want. Boom. Okay, top section,
32:07 and probably my most fun. But first, I know you guys are wondering about that front section.
32:14 Let's show you the front section. Grab the front section. It's literally, literally just the front,
32:20 even the baby hairs. Pull these bad boys, let's see what this is all about over here. Pull these
32:25 bad boys to the side, right to horizontal to your body. Okay? I want to leave depth at the root,
32:35 and I want to create a V-type shape. So we'll do it right on the top, right on the top. You see
32:41 that? And we'll do it right on the bottom, and there's darkness in the interior. Leave that
32:49 darkness. Okay? Just trying to add a bit more highlight, not trying to make her too blonde.
32:54 And connect. Use your rat tail comb, and bra. Done. Next, now let's do this side. Make sure
33:02 these bad boys match as much as possible. Don't forget, guys, Bollywood is supposed to mimic the
33:07 sun. It should be perfect internally, but have a little bit of fun with it, guys. Okay, this is,
33:11 after all, this is art, okay? Keep going. Switching around over here. Get this out of the way for a
33:22 second. Okay, grabbing the front piece over here. Ah, grab the front piece, that long hair,
33:30 we're really going for it. Top. Top. Painting. Keeping my brush sideways. You guys see that?
33:39 Sideways. Parallel to the hair. Kind of important. Parallel to the hair. Boom.
33:46 Top. Use my rat tail comb to make sure this is nice and straight. Okay, now underneath. Boom.
33:54 Making sure that everything is straight. If you want these impacts to look beautiful. Boom.
34:01 Matching. Connecting. And dropping. Done. Leave that be. Or you can cover it, and now that I
34:10 think about it, I'm going to cover it. Might as well cover it, right? Let that bad boy process.
34:14 Here's the deal. Guys, the prettier your foils look within the process, the prettier your
34:20 application is, the prettier the outcome. It's pretty simple. The more pride you take in your
34:24 work, the better it will look, and the more return clients that you will have. Just to recap on
34:29 products that we're using today, we've got the Redken Flash Lift. I think it's eight lifts. It's
34:36 out of control. That's amazing. It's eight levels of lift, which is awesome. I've got 40 volume
34:43 developer just by itself in a kind of more pasty consistency, and we're doing a balayage retouch
34:54 from a client that hasn't seen me in the last four months. Okay, now for the top section.
35:02 This is all to personal preference. I personally like to leave a lot of depth. I love depth.
35:08 Depth is beautiful. Depth is like anything in the sun. Depth means fruit, okay? If you want to get
35:15 fancy, you could add a base color in here as well. That's a whole 'nother tutorial section.
35:21 Those of you that wondered what I'm going to tone her with, I've decided. However,
35:25 if I was in here a natural, highlighted brunette, very ashy, I would do a 9B.
35:35 Okay, let's look at this top section over here for a quick second. I want to show you how this
35:39 hair is being placed. I'm not sure if you guys can see me. Come back over here on this side.
35:44 So, I've got kind of the front panel. It's basically divided into three panels.
35:52 A panel going to the back, a panel going to the side, and a panel going on the side over here
35:58 as well. Okay, and I'm pre-placing those so that I know where the hair is going to lie.
36:05 Okay, let's start with the back. Now, for me, I personally like it. You guys can tell. I like it
36:13 blonder in the front. I like it darker on top in the root. I love it light on the ends. I think it
36:24 looks amazing. And then any variation in between in the mid-shaft throughout the whole entire
36:29 section, okay? But for the top, I like it rooted as long as we're focusing on the brightness in
36:33 the front. Let's get this bad boy done. We're almost done, guys. I really appreciate you guys
36:41 being here with me. Hopefully, this is helpful. And like I said, the more of these bad boys you
36:47 can fit in a day, the more revenue you'll be making. One on the side, one in the front.
36:56 Pulling the hair out, making sure I'm pulling the hair towards me. I'll focus the color mostly on
37:03 the ends, making sure everything is straight. There we go. Natural, pretty, blended.
37:14 Boom. Next, coming around, let's do the back section. Now, the back section, I'm going to
37:19 go a little bit lower. For the front, I went a bit higher because I want a bit more brightness
37:23 in the front. Let's do the back. Let's get right into it. I always like to do it in a V-section.
37:29 And what that means for me is either I'm doing a V-like, two like this, which means one highlight
37:35 on this side and one highlight on this side, or I do three. Side to side and one in the middle.
37:40 You can even do four. It really depends on what you want to do. But for this, I'm going to be
37:44 doing a two. But you get right over here. I want to show them exactly how that will look.
37:50 So when I said two, it's pretty simple. Two. One on this side, one on this side. Three,
37:56 one on this side, one on this side, and one in the middle. Four. It makes sense, right?
38:01 Okay, let's keep going. So I'm doing a two. So one over here. And you know what? Actually,
38:09 see, here's the deal. I just realized because I was talking to Goshtang much,
38:13 I'm not going to like this top one over here.